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  • Advice on pedals

    Hello folks, I hope you are all staying safe. I am about a decade behind the curve here having taken on an unfinished Red top long term project for my early retirement having had a stroke . I am just trying to source all the bits I will need before they are redundant and no longer available. The part that is stumping me currently is the pedal setup. I hope you use ITB's so will have to change the pedals, but cannot work out how best to do this as many pedal boxes have poor reviews on the forum. I have read a number of people have adapted the original pedals but cannot find out in what way. Please don't get shouty and tell me to use the search button as I've spent hours doing that. I'm cognitively impaired so some things you guys find simple are difficult for me,like this. Could anyone provide a sketch or explain how the pedals need to be changed please? This probably won't be the last daft question I ask, so please bare with me. Many thanks in advance.

  • #2
    We generally aren't a "shouty" lot here, we try to help when we can - just don't ask which is best, Honda, Vauxhall or Rover engines, it tends to descend in to chaos lol

    I can't overly help but what I understand about how the pedal boxes are adapted, they tend to use the small "race" style master cylinders mounted horizontally under the lower dash rail with remote reservoirs mounted on bulkhead, either inside teh cabin or in the engine bay. It's a case of engineering a way to change the vertical "up-push" of the pedal to a horizontal push.
    Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

    Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

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    • #3
      I did find this with a quick search, not sure if it helps but its kinda what I understand people do?

      Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

      Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

      Comment


      • #4
        I’ve just bought a pedal box from compbrake in Wigan. It wasn’t cheap and I’ve not actually fitted it yet… however it’s literally twice as thick of gauge steel as the OBP box it’s replacing and looks to be like a very nice bit of kit.

        They even made a custom brake pedal up for me to get around the steering column which has been relocated. Top folk.


        edit: this is the kit I purchased, it’s designed for the mini but not for a relocated steering column.

        https://www.compbrake.com/product/mi...linders-kit-b/
        Last edited by Haz; 21-08-2021, 09:12 AM.

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        • #5
          Hi. First things first. What Subframe do you have? This sort of dictates engine position a bit. Most common off the shelf Subframe is Allspeed Braking (allspeedengineering.com) but it appears they are not doing the pedal box anymore ( I guess).. Worth calling them to check, as they have years of experience with Red Top conversions. I'm just guessing that you want a more of the shelf solution. Most of those pedal boxes move the cylinders to a horizontal position under the dash. I don't have throttle bodies on mine, but have all the original manifold and injection, which similarly is where the brake master cylinder would have been. On mine, I moved the master cylinder over and back on the bulkhead and offset the pedals back to original position in the car., but I have cable clutch. If you are running hydraulic clutch, better to go for of the shelf pedal box with the two cylinders under dash. If you are going to use ITBs, the car will be a bit more of a handful than most other conversions, because the torque is fairly high lower in rpm range.. Setting up of the suspension and corner weights is essential : FAQ (allspeedengineering.com) good advise on Allspeed FAQs.
          Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
          (use Irish accent)

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          • #6
            Hi folks,

            Thank you all very much for the replies, very much appreciated. I have no idea how you managed to find that photo OZ, I have the brain of a jellyfish now so it could be me but whatever brake related search title I put in came back with nothing relevant, ever. I was being to think the search button was just for showing! Anything close I found were very unfavorably towards most of the kits available, but most were also pretty old posts.

            That photo is a big help and I might be able to figure out how to use the old pedals from that.

            It has an Allspeeds subframe and currently has R1 carbs and a Nodiz ECU. It had apparently been running with a Cavalier did. I would probably struggle to fettle the carbs or trouble-shoot well enough to get it running if I hit an issue, I have been advised a throttle body kit will be much easier to get up and running ? It currently has a cable clutch but I was looking to change to hydraulic for a better feel? Yes it looks like Allspeed have stopped making much of the Mini kit, I guess the market is now too small to make it worthwhile.

            Thanks for the link there Has, that kit looks good tool.

            Thanks again folks, if anyone has any other suggestions I'm still in the planning a parts gathering stage so free to let me have them.

            Stay safe

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            • #7
              Sorry the auto-correct has got my last post before I noticed!

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              • #8
                I have found a thread where the original pedals were moved back enough to accommodate ITBs. It looked like a great idea. Has anyone tried this with any success?

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                • #9
                  Could really do with pics of the car yo are working on.. Link to any thread you are referencing etc..

                  Yes my car has pedal box moved across and back, but I think all pictures gone now when this site was upgraded.. Brake master cylinder only as I have cable clutch. You basically convert the standard pedal box to mount through the the bulkhead upright / inner wing/ flitch. Moving it to where you want and then cut an aperture into the upper bulkhead and fabricate a sturdy metal box, which you weld in.. The original master cylinder mounting bolts now come up into that structure, so tucked back from original position. Depending upon which master cylinder used, you can run into clearance for cap removal ( Yellow tag).. I will try to take a picture from engine bay. It is much more work than buying a ready made pedal box though and you have to get the pedal bow to fit strongly without flex/ movement in the new position.
                  Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
                  (use Irish accent)

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                  • #10
                    thanks for the reply

                    my phone is dying and will not let me use capitals or commas

                    i will post some pictures of my car asap

                    the post was by a user called philster i have messaged him bu no reply

                    He took both cylinders back

                    This should be his post

                    https://www.16vminiclub.com/forum/bu...-project/page8

                    Hope that helps

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Wibble View Post
                      thanks for the reply

                      my phone is dying and will not let me use capitals or commas

                      i will post some pictures of my car asap

                      the post was by a user called philster i have messaged him bu no reply

                      He took both cylinders back

                      This should be his post

                      https://www.16vminiclub.com/forum/bu...-project/page8

                      Hope that helps
                      Yes, that is exactly what I as saying. He did what I did, only I just recessed the Brake Master Cylinder. Depending upon Master Cylinder choice, you need to watch out for clearance to scuttle panel for cap removal.. If you move the Masters across, you will need to modify the pedals to get them back to the original position, but straight back should not require that. Test fit the ITB's first, because there are various types. See what room you need with filtration on.
                      Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
                      (use Irish accent)

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                      • #12
                        So you can see my master cylinder and pedal box are offset over a fair bit, but the same way.. 20210903_103026.jpg 20210903_102933.jpg
                        Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
                        (use Irish accent)

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                        • #13
                          Cap is tricky to remove with Yellow Tag master cylinder... but wont lose it down back of engine
                          Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
                          (use Irish accent)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            That's great, thank you for taking the time to do that. How do you find the cable clutch? I was looking to swap to hydraulic for a nicer feel. You're running standard injection set up too, I think mine came with most of the original one in the boot, it has R1 carbs currently but I forsee them being a pain to set up and keep fettling so was thinking of buying a QED full set up with cams etc. I've been left pretty dim after a stroke so ease of setup is important.

                            Thanks again your help.

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                            • #15
                              Cable clutch is fine for feel with standard plate. I have a Helix paddle plate that I might use, but with standard clutch cover, it still should not be anymore leg effort. I used Vauxhall Viva cable as it is v long and looks like metal shower hose. It can be bent and stays pretty much in that shape under front carpet slightly, then through the bulkhead on the passenger side to get a straighter run to the clutch fork.
                              Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
                              (use Irish accent)

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