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  • Mk4 vvc

    After lurking around on this forum for many years, it’s finally time for a 16v engine. I recently found a 1.8 vvc in a mini subframe.
    seems someone started this but never completely finished it. Checked the frane out today but it has some questionable welding choices so will go over that en make it better where possible.





    The mini it’s going to marry is one that i’ve had for many years but never completed it. It’s been moving around with me from house to house and is just as a rolling part shelf for many years. Recently found new enthousiasm to finish it and make it a daily driver even.

    Will post some pics shortly
    Last edited by Dobey; 28-10-2020, 05:43 PM.

  • #2
    First off, welcome the mad house! 😀

    The Rover K series is great fun in a Mini. Unfortunately part prices are going up fast!

    Looking at that photo makes me wonder a few things.

    The subframe has clearly been allowed to rust. How bad is it? You say welds are not good, any chance of a close up?

    Next, you need to check the wiring. The plugs that are visible are on the wrong way around.

    You have a plastic throttle body on there. They are prone to warping and then stick. An upgrade to the alloy version is a good idea. The 52mm version is popular but there isn't any gain on a standard engine.

    That's an R65 gearbox. Are you planning to use that or upgrade to PG1? The R65 hasn't a good reputation for reliability where the PG1 has and is adaptable to suit the smaller wheels.

    I have a load of spares for the early engine like this. If you need anything, please ask.

    Did the engine ever get fitted and running into the Mini by the person you got it from?

    I assume you have seen my build for Phoenix. That engine was the same as this. It's 143bhp in the original car. Mine made 160bhp with only bolt on bits. I miss having a working Mini...🤔

    Andrew.
    If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

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    • #3
      Thnx. And i don’t think the previous owner ever got it to work. Lost of things missing, like oil sump, oil filter and housing, flywheel.

      i’ve fitted the frame into the car today. It all seems to fit, or at least close enough for me to make it fit.

      The harness was just on there. No clue what they where thinking. Tracked down a garage manual so will go through the wiring at some point. Already noticed that allof the immo crap is missing. So probably need to get that disabled in the ecu.

      The rust is only surface rust, guess they cleaned the subframe, started on the fabrication and felt it was too much to handle?

      i’ve fixed some of the weld today and added some strength into it on some places. The used some square tubing of 1,5 mm thickness, still thinking to replace those with 2 or 3 mm thick square tubing.

      I was thinking of using the r65 gearbox, not going for high power, just a daily driver. Will track down a pg1 gearbox for future purposes or in case this one breaks.

      Owned a couple of 214 and 216 and even those are fun to drive, never had real trouble with them
      Last edited by Dobey; 04-10-2020, 06:47 PM.

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      • #4
        So I have no clue what thisguy was thinking. It seems he mad the frame without fitting the oil pan. Like wtf?!?

        seems i have to hack up the frame and change it all.
        image.jpg
        Last edited by Dobey; 06-10-2020, 04:46 PM.

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        • #5
          Anyone any clue if this part of the oil sump is needed or can i cut it off to get some clearance?

          it hits the frame.....
          Attached Files
          Last edited by Dobey; 06-10-2020, 07:23 PM.

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          • #6
            I'm not to geared up on info with K series conversions but with most engine conversions the lower part of the subframe tower gets slightly removed and a new bottom arm mount has to be fabricated so you may have to modify your frame not the engine/gearbox but I'm sure someone will be along shortly to confirm

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            • #7
              That’s what i’m wondering i’ve checked a couple of builds but couldn’t really find it.

              So left the subframe for now. Found some renewed energy to take on welding the body. Like I said in an earlier post, owned this one for a long time. It’s basically my kriptonite. Fought me on every step.

              Little back story, when i got this car i never did any welding or fabrication, tinkered with some Mini’s before because you need to keep your daily driver on the road but never took on a project like this.

              So I had a mate who claimed he could weld, in the end he wasn’t wrong, he could weld but it was far from good.

              I helped him with his car because he was bad at electric stuff and he helped me by welding parts. When I finished his car, he no longer had time. To not make this turn into a sob story 😀, at the end it was better this way.

              So back to 2020, i’ve tackled some crap from the previous owner, when i got the car he claimed he fixed all the rust and be fixed he ment welded a piece over the rusthole or just fill it with putty.


              So today i cut out some of his "fixes" and welded in new pieces.

              Still got the other side to do.

              Also took out all of the Mini bits and pieces from the engine bay and cut out both inner wings
              Last edited by Dobey; 28-10-2020, 05:47 PM.

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              • #8
                Just an FYI I have an ECU for a 2000 W Reg VVC that has had the immobiliser removed so you should be able to just plug it in & away you go without having to worry about the 5AS unit etc.

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                • #9
                  I wish i knew that sooner, i've just shipped mine of to get the immo removed.

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                  • #10
                    Ugh just been rust repair after rust repair... No clue what this bloke thinking when welding pieces over rust holes.. Guess he wanted the easy way out..
                    Cleaned it all up, sprayed both sides with weld through primer, to prevent it from rusting ..


                    Still have to grind the welds a bit to make it smoother.

                    Also the air hole was beyond repair so just fitted a piece of sheet metal without one, being the cheapest version of Mini it was blocked off in the first place.


                    Also these welds need to be grinded but at least the rust is gone..

                    Other side still looks like this tho.

                    IMG_4673.jpg
                    He just welded a plate on the outside, welds look like boogers so i can't imagine it was done with a decent welder or he used the wrong settings.. Anyhow no real penetration happened there

                    Last edited by Dobey; 28-10-2020, 05:48 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Nice to have you here Dobey and look forward to following your build.

                      Just a few words of wisdom, how ever long you think its going to take you, triple it and what ever you think its going to cost you, double it and add a few thousand to that figure, that way you will never be dissapointed.

                      Best of luck!!

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                      • #12
                        Hahaha yep i’m well aware of that, did a clubman a while ago, the last 20%, take 80% of the time. It still isn’t completely finished, still waiting to get the seats back

                        I might have ran into an issue. Due to the fact that we have the steering wheel on the other side the gearbox is hitting the steering rack.



                        Seems i have to move the heel board in 3,5 to 4 cm to make it fit. Guess i have to extend the rods after that. So that will be my next task.
                        I was thinking of cutting it just below the gas pedal and just below the steering rack and raise that entire piece 4 cm. Will have to see if i need to alter the pedals as they will hit the heel board sooner.. And i was thinking of moving the gas pedal up a bit or source one that can be mounted to the floor instead of the heel board.

                        But if someone has a better solution, please let me know.
                        Last edited by Dobey; 28-10-2020, 05:48 PM.

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                        • #13
                          I would try to avoid moving it that much if possible, I moved mine around 15mm and it threw the bump steer well out - i had to fit 20mm spacers between the hubs and steering arms to fix it. You may be better off with the r65 gearbox as the diff area is smaller so doesn't get as close to the rack, it should be strong enough as well as it's only pulling the weight of a mini.
                          my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887
                          https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0

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                          • #14
                            Yeah but the problem that i’ve got there is that i have to mangle the tower on the driver side to make the box fit, which doesn’t sound ideal either. That will be so far that i also have to shorten the upper suspension arm, which isn’t an idea i really like.

                            Do you have some pictures of how you did it?


                            What i was thinking last night, normally the steering arm on the wheel hub moves down and inwards, what if i move left to right and right to left and flip them over, then the arm points up and inwards. That would at least give me some extra clearance, right?
                            Last edited by Dobey; 13-10-2020, 05:55 AM.

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                            • #15
                              The steering arms are dowel fit in the hub, you can't swap side to side
                              Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

                              Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

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