Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My k mini - Ultimate Retro Sleeper

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Great to see your work Gaz. I wish that mine looked half as good.

    Regarding the W ratio 5th. I have the same ratio 5th gear here in standard spec if anyone wants the same.

    Edit. Sorry didn't read it properly when I typed it.
    If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

    Comment


    • cheers. took the engine and gearbox out and stripped the box to have a look at the 1st gear syncromesh and fit the w (0.714) ratio 5th gear. Found a couple of unexpected problems though, the nut on the end of the second motion shaft was loose so I assumed i must not have tightened it up enough... took it apart and found the 1st gear syncromesh looked in perfect condition so was confused as to why it was crunching. The cone on the gear (that the syncromesh grips on to) was quite polished so I de-glazed it and fitted another spare sycromesh and reassembled it. When tightening the nut I found first and second gear was binding on the shaft and not spinning freely - this would explain why it crunched as the syncromesh wouldn't be able to overcome this resistance, also this probably caused the nut to wind loose. There is a shim under the 1st gear and a spacer collar in the second gear that set the tolerances so i found a selection of these in my spare boxes and swapped them about until they both spun freely, so thats one problem solved. I was always under the belief that these boxes dont need shimming (apart from the diff bearings) so had never checked it but as the shims from my spare boxes were different thicknesses it appears they are so for anyone building a pg1 make sure you check these! The other problem I found when swapping over the 5th gear set was the 5th syncromesh had some damage (athough it worked smoothly) but again luckily i had good spares.
      Just need to clean everything up now and put it back together
      DSC_0985 by garrywadey, on Flickr
      my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887
      https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0

      Comment


      • Originally posted by gazwad View Post
        cheers. took the engine and gearbox out and stripped the box to have a look at the 1st gear syncromesh and fit the w (0.714) ratio 5th gear. Found a couple of unexpected problems though, the nut on the end of the second motion shaft was loose so I assumed i must not have tightened it up enough... took it apart and found the 1st gear syncromesh looked in perfect condition so was confused as to why it was crunching. The cone on the gear (that the syncromesh grips on to) was quite polished so I de-glazed it and fitted another spare sycromesh and reassembled it. When tightening the nut I found first and second gear was binding on the shaft and not spinning freely - this would explain why it crunched as the syncromesh wouldn't be able to overcome this resistance, also this probably caused the nut to wind loose. There is a shim under the 1st gear and a spacer collar in the second gear that set the tolerances so i found a selection of these in my spare boxes and swapped them about until they both spun freely, so thats one problem solved. I was always under the belief that these boxes dont need shimming (apart from the diff bearings) so had never checked it but as the shims from my spare boxes were different thicknesses it appears they are so for anyone building a pg1 make sure you check these! The other problem I found when swapping over the 5th gear set was the 5th syncromesh had some damage (athough it worked smoothly) but again luckily i had good spares.
        Just need to clean everything up now and put it back together
        DSC_0985 by garrywadey, on Flickr
        I have also had this issue with the main shaft shim. I bought a gearbox that was broken (for spares) and that was the fault but in this case the shim must of got so hot it welded it'self to the main shaft! Took some getting off but fortunately the shaft was ok and only needed another shim.

        The 5th gear damaged sychromesh is often caused by not building the the box correctly (I know you have had this apart a few times). I sell quite a few of the brass rings where people have damaged that or the small spring around it. Anyone who asks me about building a box, it's something I keep repeating! 😀

        Good luck with this once back together. 😎

        The 0.714 5th knocks around 200rpm off at 70mph if anyone is wondering when swapped from the C ratio 0.765.
        If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

        Comment


        • With the 3.6fd 70mph was 3450 rpm with the c 5th and should now be 3150rpm with the w 5th, with 80mph at 3600rpm so will be nice on the motorway but still lively enough
          my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887
          https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0

          Comment


          • I had removed the rear coolant pipe (which sits behind the engine and goes onto the thermostat housing) to clean and paint it but discovered it was corroded when the O-ring seals so wouldn't seal properly. Luckily there are stainless steel ones available which are genuine rover parts so now all the pipework is either aluminum or stainless. this is how it comes (for a rover 45):
            s-l400 by garrywadey, on Flickr
            but i'm not using the small take off so I welded that up and removed all the unused brackets, also it may be fine for a rover or mg engine but it wasn't shiney enough for a lotus engine so i gave it a polish:
            DSC_1032 by garrywadey, on Flickr
            I wasn't convinced the welds were stainless and the bleed boss is mild steel so painted those bits.

            I've also trimmed the door sliding widows as they were longer than they needed to be so didn't open fully
            my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887
            https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0

            Comment


            • Finally got the chance to drive the car with the taller 5th and it's made a good improvement at cruising speeds, the gap from 4th to 5th is a bit bigger but not too bad. I've done a few other little jobs on it including replacing the fuel tank as there has always been a slight smell of fuel in the boot, i think it might actually have been down to a faulty breather valve but either way it seems cured now and I can finally put things in the boot without them coming out smelling of petrol! Also made a cover for the heater to make it look more like a mk1 heater and adapted a mk1 indicator stalk arm to fit on a mk3 switch so i have the flashing end but also retain the headlight functions of the mk2/3 switch
              spi/mpi heater:
              DSC_1059 by garrywadey, on Flickr
              aluminium panel made using a wooden former:
              DSC_1057 by garrywadey, on Flickr
              and a bit of wrinkle black paint:
              DSC_1060 by garrywadey, on Flickr
              mk1 indicator stalk on mk3 switch:
              DSC_1084 by garrywadey, on Flickr
              DSC_1103 by garrywadey, on Flickr
              my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887
              https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0

              Comment

              Working...
              X