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  • Well I’ve got a few weeks at home now so after finding most of my spanners and the floor in my garage over the weekend I’ll be getting stuck in again. I have found the rostyle steelies tight on the fiesta callipers, so have borrowed some 4.5” minilites for mockup. I quite like them!
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    • Hi folks, I am using the original MGZR alternator on a mems 2 alternator bracket (mounts lower on the block alongside the exhaust manifold). So far I have tried a 698 and a 725 belt, both too short to fit onto the alternator pulley. Anyone played with the same setup by any chance and know the optimum belt size please? Too long and I'll run out of adjustment when tensioning the belt, as the alternator is close on the front panel. Failing that I'll keep expanding my collection of wrong belts

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      • Originally posted by Yellow View Post
        Hi folks, I am using the original MGZR alternator on a mems 2 alternator bracket (mounts lower on the block alongside the exhaust manifold). So far I have tried a 698 and a 725 belt, both too short to fit onto the alternator pulley. Anyone played with the same setup by any chance and know the optimum belt size please? Too long and I'll run out of adjustment when tensioning the belt, as the alternator is close on the front panel. Failing that I'll keep expanding my collection of wrong belts
        If you cut the lower mounting hole off the top bracket, just leaving the two holes along the top, and shave the bracket a bit you can get the alternator to rotate tighter into the engine block, I’ve done this and use a 700 belt. My belt is tight to get on, I have to rotate the crank pulley to fit it

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        • Originally posted by Yellow View Post
          Hi folks, I am using the original MGZR alternator on a mems 2 alternator bracket (mounts lower on the block alongside the exhaust manifold). So far I have tried a 698 and a 725 belt, both too short to fit onto the alternator pulley. Anyone played with the same setup by any chance and know the optimum belt size please? Too long and I'll run out of adjustment when tensioning the belt, as the alternator is close on the front panel. Failing that I'll keep expanding my collection of wrong belts
          get a length of string or a section or electrical wire and wrap it around the crank and alternator pulley with Alternator pushed against the block then measure the length. That should give you a good ball park belt length allowing for stretch when adjusting
          New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

          Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Rover K series frame, will it all fit ??

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          • The standard belt for a MG F is 735mm.

            If you think you can use the 725mm belt then remove the bottom bolt from the bracket and then it should fit.

            When you prove this works you can get a counter sunk bolt and just countersink the bracket to suit.

            If that doesn't work send me the 725 belt as I need to sort this myself too! Then buy a 735mm one.
            If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

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            • Great, thanks guys. Andrew after I posted this I searched and saw the cut-down mems 2 bracket you used on Phoenix so between all these good suggestions I should have the answer. Cheers

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              • Originally posted by Yellow View Post
                Great, thanks guys. Andrew after I posted this I searched and saw the cut-down mems 2 bracket you used on Phoenix so between all these good suggestions I should have the answer. Cheers
                You must remember that I only did that as I was using an 88mm diameter pulley on the alternator. The belt I used was a 735mm one. The next size was 770 I think which was far too long. You shouldn't need to cut the bracket. I had over an inch of clearance against the front panel. Loads of room up to most on here! 😀
                If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

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                • I remember now

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                  • Turns out what I had was a 675 (no chance!) and a 698 (it does fit as you suggested by winding the crank pulley). It’s super tight so I’ll either need to modify the bracket as suggested to give a bit more room, or go for a slightly longer belt prob 725. I’ve a few other bits to move around so I’ll see how I go before ordering it

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                    • Adding a sill to the list....... on the plus side the oversill won’t need much work to remove! The original sill seems still to be in place and the jacking point is solid so there’s good metal around to work with.

                      Frame bracing templates done, with clearance ok on everything that matters - will be removing from car to weld up.

                      Still puzzling over the alternator belt - I measured round the pulleys (in the grooves) with string and I get 675mm (the size I originally ordered) but even the 700 I have is too tight? Measuring one of my belts seems the distance is taken round the outside of the belt so I’ll have another go round the outside of the pulleys I guess.
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                      • Hi guys. I could do with some advice please.
                        1. Gearshift mechanism. Has anyone dispensed with the steady bar altogether and mounted the shifter housing to the body, or mounted the steady bar to the subframe rather than the gearbox? Looking to find some space! I appreciate the engine mounts would need to restrict virtually all movement for this to work.
                        2. Fuel filter. Would you suggest an in-line filter under the back subframe, or the ZR under-bonnet filter and fittings? I like the idea of it being under the bonnet as it would catch any rubbish from the pipes as well as the tank. I’ll be using an injection in-tank pump.
                        Cheers!

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                        • Originally posted by Yellow View Post
                          Hi guys. I could do with some advice please.
                          1. Gearshift mechanism. Has anyone dispensed with the steady bar altogether and mounted the shifter housing to the body, or mounted the steady bar to the subframe rather than the gearbox? Looking to find some space! I appreciate the engine mounts would need to restrict virtually all movement for this to work.
                          2. Fuel filter. Would you suggest an in-line filter under the back subframe, or the ZR under-bonnet filter and fittings? I like the idea of it being under the bonnet as it would catch any rubbish from the pipes as well as the tank. I’ll be using an injection in-tank pump.
                          Cheers!
                          I did away with the gear lever steady bar, I made a plate to go over the old mini shell hole and welded the zr cup to that. I had a front and rear steady on the engine and never had an issue. I'd do as you say with the fuel filter in the bay, if there is space. On mine I had a subframe mounted one which keeps it out the way but isnt practical!

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                          • Thanks Will. I have a ready made plate to adapt as mine was an auto
                            Attached Files

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                            • Top idea Will! Plan is: flip auto shifter mount plate upside down, still to be mounted on the underside of the tunnel and raise the shifter (and linkage to fit snug in the tunnel). This also moves it across to the passenger side which leaves more room for the exhaust. Knocked out the captive bolts, drill oversize fit captive nuts so it will be mounted using bolts down through the tunnel. Shifter ‘cup’ will be mounted on a small plate and sat on top of 4 rubber bobbins to isolate from vibration. It should all fit under the standard rod change gaiter which will be secures with the standard retaining ring but with captive nuts and small bolts through the tunnel. Didn’t get a pic of it finished. I’ll only know if it works when I’ve made the linkage so that’s next. Might need to chop the gearstick to shorten throw or extend height for easy reach.

                              Attached Files

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                              • Also making up toe board bracing. Any need to stitch/seam weld the edges? Be neater to drill and plug weld to body.
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