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Retro Clubman VVC

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  • Looks like there’s a sticker on it, what’s the part number?


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    Originally posted by Burnard
    couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
    Originally posted by ardonfast
    Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
    I love it

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    • Quick google search says it’s the heater bypass valve and it’s a SAAB part


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
      Originally posted by Burnard
      couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
      Originally posted by ardonfast
      Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
      I love it

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Yellow View Post



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        The is fitted to the later ZR/ZS and has a one way valve fitted to it.

        It's a common failure making the heater have no heat. A lot of garages then claim it's head gasket but really it's this. Saab do a direct replacement which is better quality.

        Personally, I would remove it. I ran Phoenix for 8 years using the pipework just like a stock Mini. It does mean that with the heater set to cold, no coolant goes through the matrix. It never seemed to affect the cooling, even on track or hot days.
        If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

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        • Retro Clubman VVC

          Mine is setup without any “SAAB valve” too, I have an in-line heater valve from an MPi Mini and then a couple of tees and a bit of hose before that to bypass the heater valve when it’s shut, as Andrew says, it means no coolant runs through heater matrix with the valve shut but if it did then you wouldn’t get any control over the cabin heat.
          Had no issues with this setup with regards to cooling.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
          Originally posted by Burnard
          couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
          Originally posted by ardonfast
          Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
          I love it

          Comment


          • Thanks guys


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            • I've run a similar set up like Dan's, so when the heater valve is closed the coolant still circulates around the engine through the bypass the other side of the thermostat. The engine warms up in a couple or 3 miles and has no issues when giving it the beans.

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              • Beginnings of a plan on mounting the rad... skinny fan fits snug to the rad and with a bit cut away clears the frame and headlamp bowl. Wonky looking lower mounting bar gives enough clearance behind the rad for cable clutch fittings and leaves access to the drain tap. Next need to mock up the hoses and my idea is to fit a bracket to the frame with a rubber sleeve that the lower bar on the rad will sit in. That way I can slot it in and lean it back to the finished location and finally sort out a top steady mount. On the rad cap I’m thinking of removing the pressure relief spring, making it a fixed cap, then link the overflow pipe to the header tank.

                I’m looking for some 32mm connectors (stainless or alloy) 90 degree and straight. Found straight ones on eBay but no angles - might have to be plastic instead.







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                • I had a hunt around at home and can only find a straight alloy joiner, a 135 degree ally bend and an alloy joiner that has a hole to take a Mini temp sender, sure I have more but I’ll have to have another rummage tonight.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
                  Originally posted by Burnard
                  couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
                  Originally posted by ardonfast
                  Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
                  I love it

                  Comment


                  • @keith thanks for the links I’ll take a look. I think whatever I get may need shortening as I need to make the turns in the pipe run quite tight

                    @dan thanks for looking. Temp sender take-off is a great idea I intend fitting a capillary gauge. And oil temp and pressure gauges on the list too if I can work out where to fit those. Oil pressure off the filter housing I think?


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                    • I used straight pipe and then silicon for the bends, so if I need it a little tighter there was some movement.

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                      • Originally posted by gadget555 View Post
                        I used straight pipe and then silicon for the bends, so if I need it a little tighter there was some movement.

                        That’s a great idea!


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                        • A little subframe advice please. Lose the area marked X? Can’t see it’s adding much now.













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                          • I removed that section on mine, I also added some triangle bracing to the top tube above both horizontally and vertically
                            my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887
                            https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0

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                            • Thanks I’ll recheck your pics!


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