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[HELP] with Bleeding my 'k'lubman estate 1.4

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  • [HELP] with Bleeding my 'k'lubman estate 1.4

    OK, soOO... i've finally got her running and went to bleed the system today and had loooooads of air locks to over come buUT...
    have got some questions i hope i can get some HELP for.
    1. the bottom hose on my heater is hot but, the top ones not.
    could this be a blocked matrix.
    2. where is this 'bleed valve' on the the inlet manifold?
    3. if i only opened the 8mm on the steel pipe will this be a problem?
    and lastly...
    in the pic,,, although iv'e just used a crude copper pipe,, Is it routed properly to the expansion tank and the MPI Mini rad?

    oh,,, and i would love to share the complete restoration in a build diary till now so pleeeease, bare with me whilst i get the pics in order.
    anyhoo...
    hope some1 can help, and hay,, i could never have got her this far without this forum,, soOO... UBA THANKS FOR ALL THE LINKS AND BUILD DIARIES.
    Attached Files
    "Steve Austin, the 6million hour build"
    MOT, March 15th 2013!*!*!

  • #2
    Originally posted by theminihut View Post
    in the pic,,, although iv'e just used a crude copper pipe,, Is it routed properly to the expansion tank and the MPI Mini rad?

    oh,,, and i would love to share the complete restoration in a build diary till now so pleeeease, bare with me whilst i get the pics in order.
    anyhoo...
    hope some1 can help, and hay,, i could never have got her this far without this forum,, soOO... UBA THANKS FOR ALL THE LINKS AND BUILD DIARIES.
    Can't help with the bleeding, but can't see anything wrong with your piping! What did you do for the heater hose takeoff?

    Get a build diary up mate, I'm building a 1.4 mini too, it's an underrated engine
    Originally posted by apbellamy
    Fuck me Shaun. That actually made sense.

    Comment


    • #3
      Remove the cap off your expansion tank, start the car and let it warm up.
      Then hold the revs at around 3k until it burps, can take a couple of minutes but it worked for mine.
      Originally posted by Burnard
      couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
      Originally posted by ardonfast
      Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
      I love it

      Comment


      • #4
        just out of the blue, is your rad realy high?? just a qwestion, wat hapens if you unbolt it and move it lower down,
        "yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
        http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
        SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
        http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by ardonfast View Post
          just out of the blue, is your rad realy high?? just a qwestion, wat hapens if you unbolt it and move it lower down,
          Yeah you're right . The top part of the rad is higher than the coolant level in the header tank. That won't be helping.
          Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
          (use Irish accent)

          Comment


          • #6
            I also think the radiator is mounted too high.

            You also have routed the small pipe take off to the to the expansion tank along the top of the engine. Where it's held on it's too high and will never bleed, so you will have no return to the tank.

            The expansion tank "MAX" level MUST be the highest point of the entire cooling system.

            I didn't know there was a bleed screw in the inlet manifold. If there is I have never used it.

            I have 4 cars with these engines and all bleed fine using the 8mm screw in the steel pipe on the side of engine.

            Hope this helps....
            If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

            Comment


            • #7
              THANKS ALLLL FOR GETTING BACK TO ME.
              Ok, so,,, I've put a new matrix in and tried holding her at about 2000 rpm for some time and.. BUrP, out came the air and I let it tick over till the coolant started to rise in the header tank. Alll the hoses where hot too and I waited for the fan to kick in but nothing
              I was reading in a coupla diaries of possible problems,,,
              I.e. my mini gauge isn't reading right as its just below the red but doesn't creep up any further.
              I.e. even when I took the plug of the fan should have kicked in.. and I even tried bridge'n it but nothing.,,,,Aaarg!!!!
              I reckon its a problem with the ECU from when I had it decoded soO,, I went up to Burton motor sport and picked up a KENLOW over ride cappillary.
              Hope that sorts it.
              Anyhoo....
              as for the coolant hose routing... I totally take all that advice on board Sept, I'm stumped as to where to put the rad!!!
              Watson's made me up a bracket to mount the mini clutch slave and the bleed valve is in the way to drop the rad. I'm loathed the move the rad now after making up tidy brackets for it BuUT....was thinking maybe I could move the tank. But its cramped already.
              As for the rope hose take off... Any suggestions?
              Seems like I'm never gunna be done fabrication after such a massive restoration.
              The good news is. I've well started sorting my build pics but was thinking,,, just cheat and post the vids.
              Anyhoo...
              Thanks again guys.
              Adrian.
              "Steve Austin, the 6million hour build"
              MOT, March 15th 2013!*!*!

              Comment


              • #8
                the expansion tank is too low no doubt about it. you will keep getting air locks unless the tank is the highest point in the system- i know this from experience converting several minis to k series!
                a better rad to use is a nissan micra k11 (bubble shape) as it has more cooling capacity and has a cap on top which is great for bleeding.
                my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887
                https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0

                Comment


                • #9
                  Your Estate looks great, any chance of more pics, we all like pics
                  Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

                  Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yep,, more pics on the way indeed Oz.
                    I'm going to try move the expansion tank today,, BuUT,, as I was saying,, moving the rad will be tough cause of the clutch slave placement.
                    As for the micra rad... Great idea Gaz,, BuUT,, that's a brand new mpi rad soO I was thinking maybe I could get a breather put in it,, InSTEAD,, of buying a new rad???
                    As for the fan.... I reckon its not the loom Gaz as ur loom work has been spot on SoO,,, it must be the ECU, no?
                    Any feedback on the KENLOW system any1,??
                    "Steve Austin, the 6million hour build"
                    MOT, March 15th 2013!*!*!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by theminihut View Post
                      Yep,, more pics on the way indeed Oz.
                      I'm going to try move the expansion tank today,, BuUT,, as I was saying,, moving the rad will be tough cause of the clutch slave placement.
                      As for the micra rad... Great idea Gaz,, BuUT,, that's a brand new mpi rad soO I was thinking maybe I could get a breather put in it,, InSTEAD,, of buying a new rad???
                      As for the fan.... I reckon its not the loom Gaz as ur loom work has been spot on SoO,,, it must be the ECU, no?
                      Any feedback on the KENLOW system any1,??
                      Just to say, it looks from your picture that you have plenty of room for the MPI type rad. I would leave the expansion tank where it is and drop the rad down to about an inch above the starter solenoid gubbins. Straighten it up to the airflow at the front of the car. A puller fan on the back would be better allowing you to get the rad right in the airflow and it's more efficient. With fan at the front it actually obstructs airflow ( air flow will take the path of least resistance). Also with fan on the backside you can probably position it so that it doesn't foul the clutch slave. I found this because I have clutch arm and cable adjuster. This is what I have done on my build - not K series but I bet I have less room than you. See pics.
                      Attached Files
                      Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
                      (use Irish accent)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Oh forgot to say that I have a Kenlowe equivalent type setup and it works great. Can set the temperature at which my fans cut in and added a neon bulb so I can see when they are running. Added a manual override switch and it can be used after engine is switched off if necessary.
                        Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
                        (use Irish accent)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          if exspantion tank is at its highest piont[looks like it is]dont want it pokeing out of the bonnet, you sort of need to lower it a bit,[the rad] its by no means a drastic move to take its brackets of and lay it down a bit just to see if it helps, nothing to loose also simple[i say lol] dont think it has to be tottaly upright, check that tho,
                          i do like a bleed screw up high to,
                          Last edited by ardonfast; 20-11-2012, 01:40 PM.
                          "yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
                          SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yup, rad needs to come forward and down.

                            As for the fan, have you tried just putting 12v through it to make sure the fan works?
                            Originally posted by apbellamy
                            Fuck me Shaun. That actually made sense.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I wouldn't be so hasty replacing the ECU just because the fan doesn't work off it.

                              I have had my 1.6 MG ZS for 8 years and in all that time, even in Summer I've heard the fan come on, maybe once a year. The K series is very good at cooling.

                              My K series Mini, running off the standard Mini radiator still doesn't have a fan at all and runs fine without even signs of overheating.

                              I would mount your radiator at a slight angle, tipped forward at the bottom to clear the clutch slave. Then bring the far side out a bit more to make the radiator mount straighter in the car. It will cool better and can be mounted a lot lower like that.
                              If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

                              Comment

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