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Birdman's B204 MINI (Mid Engine RWD)

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  • Been v busy with work. Managed to clock the compressor housing on turbo and work out the tubing from there to intercooler. All going to get quite busy on that side.. 20210501_165733.jpg
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    • Thinking about running a Holset HE221W in the future as they seem to give amazing results and reliability. Maybe not bother with the forge dump valve. Will be nice if we ever get a summer to do some grinding and cutting outside, otherwise the other mini gets covered in sanding grit and metal.
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      • Been grabbing more bargain for the project... Race alloy Radiator, only £20 delivered! 20210520_170057.jpg 20210520_170031.jpg
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        • 3 X cans of etch primer £3, Anderson ump cable for back of car £2, Clamp for water pipes under car £0.50p, Alloy heat reflective tape £1, 3" Exhaust clamps x2 £1. Always keeping the cost low where I can.. 20210522_143550.jpg 20210523_114918.jpg
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          • Rear gearbox damper might work £2 20210523_135424.jpg
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            • Radiator inlet and outlets look in right place and are the correct hose size. I think Header tank will be approximately as in picture with long pressure / return line to radiator at front. 20210522_143347.jpg
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              • Rad welding is lovely 20210522_143435.jpg 20210522_143446.jpg
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                • A few more items acquired...

                  20210801_121444.jpg 20210801_121509.jpg
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                  • Will be working out what tube and box section I need soon to make the actual rear cage / frame.. Think it will be fabrication and welding time in October.. In the meantime I have been working out cables, hoses and various clearances. I connected up the gearchange cables from a Vectra B so I could see how much they would need to be lengthened. I had originally hoped to use a VX220 gearchange assembly, but that proved to be too expensive at £400n 2nd hand.. So went back to Vectra B Gearchange crate and new short shifter, cables etc. Have established that I need around 13" additional cable to get the gearchange where it should be in the car. This meant that the gear shift pattern was all reversed though and in hindsight not so clever. So I have now cut out a window in the existing assembly and reversed the cable system, so I'm back to correct pattern. Bought another set of 2nd hand cables to chop up and will extend them using steel brake line when I get to a point where seat fitment is needed, but that will depend upon pedal box placement and steering wheel. Anyway, good to have worked out the gear changing when you decide to put the powertrain behind you. 20210814_122000.jpg 20210814_141557.jpg 20210815_173537.jpg 20210901_183321.jpg
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                    • image_11434.jpg 20210816_180602.jpg 20210816_183422.jpg Mocked up what a set of Saab 9000 clocks would look like in carbon dash, but although I could v easily just extend loom from big grey plug and be plug n play with those clocks, I think they will be wrong shape for carbon dash and heavy. May go for a race digital dash or Saab 93 clocks.. Undecided. Put Seat in rough position to see how tight it will be in the car and to understand the need to move forward the gearshift. 20210816_180536.jpg
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                      • More pics.. 20210818_131947.jpg 20210816_184149.jpg 20210816_184002.jpg 20210816_184057.jpg
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                        • Generally still getting a few bargains here and there for the project. Got a load of Hoses and AN Fittings to remove the crankcase ventilation system and go to a catch can breather, and to to "T" into oil cooler pipes for the Acusump system. 20210820_174423.jpg
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                          • Lol it really just looks like a big go-cart in the last picture. Keep up the good work

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                            • Yeah, it will be even more so when I add an MGTF front subframe. Just doing what I can until a body shell can be acquired and housed.. Really tough to get one in a decent state at reasonable cost. Missed a few on Ebay, but reality is, I need to do the rear frame build first due to space shortage. There is always plenty to work out and buy along the road though, so just try to keep some forward motion. The shell and clutch are looking to be the most expensive items.. I think I have approx £1k invested in the project so far, but around £300 of bits that will be resold, so not bad and on budget.
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                              • I'm also looking at individual Audi R8 coil on plug conversion. I have seen it on Saab engine before, but do not know if it can be done on standard management Trionic 5.5, because as I understand it, knock is sensed through the spark plugs and SAAB DI pack. The SAAB DI Pack is pretty expensive to replace and as all the coils are together, one going down means replacing the whole unit.. No so much fun if you are broken down, but carrying a spare individual COP would save the day much more cheaply. I will find out soon, if that can be an option. The pic below shows what I mean and I want a similar crankcase breathing set up.waestsaab3.jpg
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