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Birdman's B204 MINI (Mid Engine RWD)

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  • Took some measurements for the opposite trailing arm and hub yesterday. As I suspected, I got different negative camber reading of 6 degrees negative. Being Autograss arms, they were probably not very accurately made and they probably built in more negative camber on onside as they are generally going around the muddy field in one direction. I checked to see if the camber varied through suspension travel range and even with my basic mdf mock up, the camber remained totally constant. So I will make mk2 versions with slotted holes on outboard bracket and have a threaded heavy duty adjuster to be able to set both arms at the desired camber settings. That I think can solve things and was probably always going to be better. Mocking up the brackets has really helped to visualise and take measurements. I think if I can have adjustment of between 0 and 3 degrees negative, that should be all that is required.
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    • Also took some more measurements from my other mini and the basic rear frame. I think the rearmost attachment holes line up with the the 2 holes either side in a mini's boot ( the strengthener that is at 90 degrees to the rear of the wheel arches). So I have more bodywork protruding, which is helpful. It allows me to move the exhaust box backwards giving room for engine and trans mounts. The engine and box need to move across approx 10mm to the drivers side now. This will suit the driveshafts just a little more on plunge. Thinking about more solid type engine mounts as space is not so great, but will have to see...
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      • Nice progress.

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        • Originally posted by Ronski View Post
          Nice progress.
          Thanks Ronski.

          Painfully slow to be honest, but with the pandemic, work and trying to do things mega cheap, I suppose it's keeping me occupied...
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          • Job messy again with mk2 version of trailing arm bracket at weekend. Epoxy in cold weather was difficult, but got it a lot more sussed out. 20210130_135509.jpg 20210130_135522.jpg 20210131_140250.jpg
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            • So the adjuster on the outboard bracket / pivot, which will be hidden inside the bodywork, but can camber can be adjusted on car with a spanner trackside. Final mk3 design is in my head with choice of two pivot heights with slightly different arcs of arm travel. Two slotted holes, one for each height. Probably make it a bolt on to floor beam and tube uprights. 20210131_155154.jpg
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              • I will get everything laser cut later on along in one order, including engine and transmission mounts. To get some visual reference as to where the cage / frame sits, I borrowed my XE Mini and with some tape, stuck it to the rear side of the car. From main roll tube bar to centre of rear hubs/ wheel centre is 21 inches. With the trailing arms that sets the wheel exactly where it is on std mini body, give or take 10mm. So that's good and should allow 13" wheels and/ or 15" option. If I get 4 x 100 15" wheels with high ET say ET40 or ET45 that will bring the track in very nicely. At present the Caterham wheels are ET5 so there is possibility of bringing it in up to 40mm both sides. 20210131_150410.jpg 20210131_150420.jpg
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                • Some scribblings etc. 20210203_170951.jpg 20210203_171020.jpg dimensions.png
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                  • Right. Slight update. Decided to see if I could get some extra room in the garage, as I can get 2 x minis end to end with some room around them, but not enough to really work on them. So I bought some wheel skates and have managed to swing the road mini around on the diagonal. This has released up some really good space and is really an excuse to have both minis. 20210403_094303.jpg 20210331_130456.jpg 20210403_170754.jpg
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                    • This meant I could have a good clear up and sell off some more bit for the project's fund. Made a weightlifting bar using 2 x Caterham wheels and tyres. Useful. Then I dug out the Rollcenter muti point cage that I have for the SAAB mini. Assembled it loosely and took loads of measurements. It is actually approx 4 inches wider where it meets the rear cage of the test frame, so I have been looking at working out as much as I can with the autograss rear frame before I use the Rollcenter Rear frame and fabricate a copy from that. 20210403_170838.jpg 20210412_185651.jpg 20210414_165451.jpg
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                      • 20210414_165500.jpg 20210414_165737.jpg 20210414_170114.jpg
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                        • Found some stainless pipe that could work for my screamer pipe from external wastegate, to get flames out of the side window, hopefully. Dug out the C 20210416_180405.jpg 20210416_180436.jpg 20210416_180448.jpg orsa C electric power steering column that I made for the road mini. I'm thinking that although heavy, it could be useful on a car that may be very tail snappy. Managed to find a route that I think I'm happy with for intercooler piping. If I get some banjo fittings for the oil cooler, I should have a straight run from air filter low by driverside rear wheel area to turbo inlet.
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                          • 20210417_150152.jpg 20210417_150207.jpg 20210417_150039.jpg
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                            • Have re routed the engine loom to gain a few more inches now. I want it to come through a rear bulkhead with the ecu being on that inside the cabin. Just enough to do that now. Found another stainless bend for the screamer pipe. Now able to see the white mini through my garden "Mini Bar"... roll on the summer. 20210417_152122.jpg 20210418_145433.jpg
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                              • Next I'm going to crudely mock up the tubes and brackets to work out the coilover setup at the rear. Just tack weld things into place. After that arrangement has been worked out I think I will move to modifying the proper rear cage into a frame, so will get proper 38mm Safety Devices approved tubing and stronger box section. I know how much further I can get the engine across now when I make the final frame and most of the important clearances. I don't think it is worth to make the engine mounts until the rest is done. 20210418_160527.jpg
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