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Blackbird turbo powered mini

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  • #61
    Looking good !!

    Love the whiteboard in the backgound, got to get me one of those.

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    • #62
      So had couple hours free and rebuilt the diff with the new parts! When building the diff mounts, I wasn’t expecting on putting a flywheel for reverse, so I had clearance issues!! Nothing the grinder couldn’t sort! Will put a shaped plate over it another day!! Will need a small starter too!! Maybe one off a big ktm or another big single!!

      Everything lines up well tho [emoji1360] will do more body work welding tomor, hopefully!! If I do, I plan to get the bulkhead finished and maybe the scuttle and A panels on there .






      Dave




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      • #63
        Originally posted by Dopeshow View Post
        Looking good !!



        Love the whiteboard in the backgound, got to get me one of those.


        Whiteboards are so handy!! You can see a mini bike makin for my mate on there too!! Just out of an old lawnmower!!



        You can see that pic is old, it’s got my ‘88 in there! Sold that a while back!!!



        All the cage measurements and shaft lengths etc are on there, as i tend to forget! Even when they’re on there I forget to look and get it wrong haha

        Dave


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        • #64
          Not much done today.....welded up closing plates for where the cage comes thru, needs a bit of cleaning up but seam sealer and painting will make it look a load better. Made some plates for strengthening, like the original crossmember support, with a dimpled hole. And finished the patch at bottom of bulk head.





          Really pissed off with myself....driveshafts are too long! [emoji20] error on my part, they’re both 35mm too long, so as they’re the same, I’ve miss-judged something!! The whiteboard only helps when you’ve measured right to start with!! I’ll cut and re-do them one eve this week! Not the end of the world! Another thing I’ve found, now that the shafts are welded, not 2 halves, it’s a struggle to get them in!! Have to disassemble a lot of stuff to get them in! Oh well, hopefully they won’t be coming out much!! I painted them too but there’s loads of sharp bits trying to get them in, so that was a waste of time!!

          Can see why no one has tried this conversion haha!

          The magnum scuttle panel is crap too!! Really really bad fit!! I’ve tacked it in place, and will have to grind it to shape for the screen! Will get front subframe back in, doors on and try mock everything up properly for gaps before welding anything properly!!

          Thanks for looking!

          Dave



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          • #65
            Sound like I was on a rant.....I wasn’t! Just one of those days, step forward, and several back!!

            Not diss heartened, think it must be the heat!! I’ll crack on later in the week and all will be well [emoji16]

            Dave


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            • #66
              Blackbird turbo powered mini

              Had a couple hours tonight (when I say a couple, I literally mean 2 haha).

              Remade flanges for where the cage fixes to the subframe.







              Fits really well! Happy how they’re turned out!! I’ve welded the flange from the cage to the inner wing too, for extra strength. The subframe one then bolts to that with m10 bolts. Will be nylock on final build up.



              Also fitted the front subframe, clamped my A panels to the wings and trial fitted them! With the scuttle where it is, it all lines up well!! Will obv need tweaking, but overall I’m happy how it sits!! Everything apart from the scuttle is laying or clamped in place. The wings, slam panel and bonnet are welded together, just need some sealer down the joints.







              The front wheels are fairly far forward, but I needed to do this to clear all the steering!! Arches will cover this! I need to cut out the front if the arch as the wheel fouls this! When the arches are on I will fit them in such a way that the wheel in central!

              Comments are welcome.

              Dave



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              • #67
                Love this build

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                • #68
                  Originally posted by evenbiggerdave View Post
                  The front wheels are fairly far forward, but I needed to do this to clear all the steering!! Arches will cover this! I need to cut out the front if the arch as the wheel fouls this! When the arches are on I will fit them in such a way that the wheel in central!

                  Comments are welcome.
                  One issue is that the frame itself has a flat back (unlike a mini frame that has a sloping back) and this limits how far the frame can be mounted back in the shell. I'm not sure how doable it is with an MGTF frame but with the MGF frame (which doesn't have the Coilover towers) there are two options:-

                  1) Modify the back of the frame so it is clears the bulkhead; or

                  This is the back of the frame on my car (a Custom-Minis Vtec frame):-



                  2) Cut a section out of the bulkhead and toeboard to allow the frame to be moved back further than then weld in a box to fill where you've cut away.

                  There was a picture on here of this mod but I think it has been lost with the photobucket nonsense and the guy who did it long since sold eth car and doesn't come back.

                  Both options will also need you to cut the toe board around the steering rack box and then make a filler piece (this is what I did)



                  Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

                  Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

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                  • #69
                    Originally posted by Oz View Post
                    One issue is that the frame itself has a flat back (unlike a mini frame that has a sloping back) and this limits how far the frame can be mounted back in the shell. I'm not sure how doable it is with an MGTF frame but with the MGF frame (which doesn't have the Coilover towers) there are two options:-



                    1) Modify the back of the frame so it is clears the bulkhead; or



                    This is the back of the frame on my car (a Custom-Minis Vtec frame):-







                    2) Cut a section out of the bulkhead and toeboard to allow the frame to be moved back further than then weld in a box to fill where you've cut away.



                    There was a picture on here of this mod but I think it has been lost with the photobucket nonsense and the guy who did it long since sold eth car and doesn't come back.



                    Both options will also need you to cut the toe board around the steering rack box and then make a filler piece (this is what I did)









                    Cheers for the reply mate!! I have done very similar to you....I’ll add the pic as I can’t remember if I’ve put one up.



                    Do you have a link to your build? And what exactly are you doing with yours??

                    Dave


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                    • #70
                      http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthrea...171#post380171

                      My build diary - but I am literally only as far as welding that little box in. The car had a Watsons vtec frame and I am swapping it for a Custom Minis one as it lets you get the vtec under a standard round nose using the Metro/Mgf suspension and steering. The strip down has reveal rust and little areas that need attention so the subframe swap has pretty much stopped whilst I sort out the bodywork.

                      The difference between your steering rack and mine is that the foam seal (you don't have it fitted in you pic) that fits on the rack to seal it from the body protrudes about 15-20mm through the hole in my floor hence the box I had to build to get it to fit. My frame probably sits an inch further back than a standard mgf frame would which almost puts the wheels central in the mini wheel arch.
                      Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

                      Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Oz View Post
                        http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthrea...171#post380171



                        My build diary - but I am literally only as far as welding that little box in. The car had a Watsons vtec frame and I am swapping it for a Custom Minis one as it lets you get the vtec under a standard round nose using the Metro/Mgf suspension and steering. The strip down has reveal rust and little areas that need attention so the subframe swap has pretty much stopped whilst I sort out the bodywork.



                        The difference between your steering rack and mine is that the foam seal (you don't have it fitted in you pic) that fits on the rack to seal it from the body protrudes about 15-20mm through the hole in my floor hence the box I had to build to get it to fit. My frame probably sits an inch further back than a standard mgf frame would which almost puts the wheels central in the mini wheel arch.


                        Just read the whole thing!! [emoji23]

                        Interesting read! Well done on everything. With the front subby and steering, one of my goals was to get the frames as high up in the car as poss to lower it more if that makes sense? I got the rack/subby as Hugh as it would go without have to cut loads outta my bulkhead! I think I’ve achieved what I set out to do. I didn’t realise there was a seal in there!! Maybe I can buy a new one or put some tube around the column and use a ball joint gator or something?? I’ll see!!

                        Thanks for sharing and inputting, really appreciate it! [emoji1360]

                        Dave


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                        • #72
                          My Watson's kit uses the MG F frame, hubs, brakes and Metro 13" wheels (which fit straight on your hubs). When you measure the difference between this and a Mini frame, it's around 20mm further forward. I ended up trimming the front part of my steel arch and just mounting the arch extensions on centrally to the wheel. No one has ever commented about it looking wrong although the Clubman front is longer anyway.

                          The little foam rubber you talk about I also have fitted. The way the MG F rack is held against the Mini bulkhead does mean it fits in a tapered fashion as in it is squashed more at the top than the bottom. The seal is about 15mm thick so can accommodate this without issue.
                          If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

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                          • #73
                            You can buy replacement foam seals but they stick to a plastic retainer that clips on to the steering rack (the white plastic you can see behind the foam seal in the first of my bulkhead pics) but I've never seen those on the parts diagrams and they don't appear to be available. I see you got the MGF donor, if you still have the shell it might be stuck on the shell when you dropped the front subframe.
                            Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

                            Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=19600

                              Have you seen this thread ? Something very similar to what you are doing but retaining the MGFs K-series engine
                              Last edited by Oz; 18-07-2018, 09:07 AM.
                              Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

                              Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                Originally posted by Oz View Post
                                http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=19600



                                Have you seen this thread ? Something very similar to what you are doing but retaining the MGFs K-series engine


                                Hey oz!! I watched that when it was started, and when I thought of doing a mini, this is the one I remembered!! A lot of my ideas are similar to this one, but things like mounts etc made slightly more substantial. (That’s not a slate to the owner/builder) I like it a lot, and like how well it looks and goes.......knowing that the subbys could be fitted, it just left me having to work out the fitting of the bike engine, chain drive, turbo etc!

                                That thread was nearly 10 years ago haha!! Crazy!!

                                It’s nice looking at other people’s projects, as someone said at the start of mine, as it helps overcome hurdles!! [emoji16]


                                Dave


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