My Vtec Cooper

[Oz]

I fitted the ClutchMasters internal slave and refitted box. Dropped engine in. A few "taps" with a lump hammer sorted out the final few mm clearance for the box on the frame.

Next job was to modify the dog-bone steady to shorten it to make a front brace to the front crossmember and see if I could get a rear mount in.

Tried rad, the extra room from the moved side bar helped.

H&S manifold catches on new crossmember so will have to cut a recess.

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[Oz]

I had an interesting day at the garage. I refitted my front suspension and driveshafts/CVs (dry) as I wanted to check that I still had unrestricted movement in the shaft through full suspension travel.

My concern was that I've slightly narrowed my track my using Mini top suspension arms which are narrower and less cranked forward. To counter the extra camber and caster from the movement of the top balljoint position by using base model Metro lower balljoints that have the least camber and caster.

Luckily there is plenty of plunge left in the inner pot joints so that little mod works (nice that something I try actually pays off lol).

I had a mess around with my rad and front panels. I can get back to about a 1 inch extension with the new front crossmember but things are getting tight.

I still am working out a rear engine mount solution. I even looked at the Watsons rear mount which doesn't quite fit back as was as I've lowered the engine in the frame. I have a Honda rear poly mount as I bought a full set of Innovate mounts. Part of me wants to try and mount it to the rear crossmember of the frame then somehow try and fab something to join the rear mount bolt holes in the gearbox to the poly mount. Allspeed use this kind set up so I'll take a look at what they do.

Rad position and mount still need finalising too.

I finally feel like I'm ticking stuff off a list and getting closer to the finish line.

[Potential Motorsport]

Glad to here you are making progress and ticking boxes off.

[Oz]

Glad to here you are making progress and ticking boxes off.

thanks Leon

Good to see you back on here too

[Oz]

Ok, now I've got a conundrum...

My mate came over to discuss helping me extend the wings and bonnet. We then took the front off and looked at the rad position as the fabricator had made the new crossmember wider than I'd wanted. We got the rad back where I wanted it.

After he left I decided to put the front back on to get it out of the way and slipped when aligning it and was surprised that the wing went all the way back to the scuttle so I tried the other side.

There's some fouling but quite minor which looks like it can be sorted.

It begs the question, as the wings appear to fit right back to the scuttle should I still go for an extension and all the extra work or do I push to go standard length again ...

The new crossmember is still an issue if we go standard length and will need some thought. Also a bit worried the rad will foul the front panel behind the grill.

Front wheels do sit forward in arch so clearance for full lock comes an issue again but that's largely due to me wanting to use Sportpack arches

Pics with standard length.

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[Oz]

Bear in mind this is with the Watsons frame in its normal position, not recessed back in to the bulkhead as I'd tried previously

[Oz]

My mate came around again this afternoon and we worked ona few things and tried to work out the issue with the rad hitting the front panel.

One thing we did was cut off the lower valance from a scrap front panel to see whether it'd clear the front crossmember. what do you think ? It looks ok I reckon.

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[Red Riley]

I think the forward mounted valance looks fine. It's not that noticeable once the bumper's on. That's how mine is done with the MiniTec D-series kit. It's not like you're trying to keep the car stock, after all.

[Oz]

I think the forward mounted valance looks fine. It's not that noticeable once the bumper's on. That's how mine is done with the MiniTec D-series kit. It's not like you're trying to keep the car stock, after all.

Thanks Brian. I'm trying to keep it as stock looking as possible on a quick glance.

It was pics of your Elf that helped me decide to try this

[Dopeshow]

looks great Oz

[Oz]

This is the major bit of fouling. The rad hits the front panel. As you can see I've already cut out a triangle and this is just visible with the grill on but there's still a row or two fouling.

My mate who used to run a body shop is going to put a subtle bulge in to clear it. Hopefully it will be hardly noticable with the grill and surrounds on.

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[Oz]

Not much of an update but I've tacked the new front dog-bone mount in to the frame and started work modifying the Watsons rear mount to allow for the lowered engine position. Just a case of measure, cut, test, repeat lol

My mate has also finished prepping the cut off lower valance in readiness for fitting to the new panel when ready.

I've had an idea regarding the rad fouling the front panel - watch this space lol

[Oz]

Just sharing a few pics

Here's the repurposed lower front valance being test fitted with self tappers.

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I have this amount of clearance under the plenum with the engine lowered by 20mm

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I know the Vtec rocks back under acceleration so I'm hoping my torque mounts will be able to control the engine enough so it doesn't hit.

[simonaoz]

I came across this mod that someone had done to the cross member. Without the bulkhead box of course. It removes the LHD locations for the master cylinders and looks right.

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[Oz]

Yes, luckily the plenum fits without hitting the bulkhead, it's just a little close to crossmember.

I've marked out the area under where it looks like it might touch on acceleration, I'm just in two minds whether to do the mod or try my luck