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My Vtec Cooper

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  • Oz
    replied
    Originally posted by Kam View Post


    Actually I notice your downpipe section is one-piece from the 2-1 join forwards where as mine are bends and straight sections welded together (in my case welded together wonky !!)



    Zooming in on flipflops photos I posted above, his are also one-piece by the looks of it !
    Last edited by Oz; 29-03-2019, 01:09 PM.

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  • Oz
    replied
    Originally posted by Starmag View Post
    It looks like the manifold sits nice and close to the block, good for clearance!
    Could just be what I'm after, are you able to take some more pics showing how close it is please? And if it's not too much trouble, a measurement of how far the manifold come out at it's furthest point
    Hi, no worries but it won't be until next week as I won't be at my garage until the weekend.

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  • Oz
    replied
    Thanks Kam that's really useful.

    I emailed Ian overnight and got a terse response saying "Send it back and I will have a look and change it if need, is that OK?"

    Frankly no it isn't "OK", he had clear photos of the issue and decided to fob me off with BS rather than say send it back and we'll take a look in the first place. Even now its "change it if need", so do I trust them to fix the issue ? No, I don't. I've lost faith in them so I'm going to get it sorted locally by someone I do trust. Yes, it'll cost me more but it would also cost me in posting it back to the UK in the hope they will "fix" it but still with no guarantees from them.

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  • Kam
    replied
    I've also updated the Honda Chat manifold sticky with the pics straight after purchase for others but for your reference as well

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  • Kam
    replied
    Mr C

    Not sure whats going on with yours but no you shouldn't have to bend anything to get any of it to line up and slip onto its mating pipe, like you said the clamps are there for a reason, it should be slip on slip off Mr Miyagi style

    Here is mine between the 1.6 to 2.0 stage, I sent the manifold back to H&S to extend the runners so I had some extra room to drop just incase the rest of the exhaust decided to have a barmy with the tunnel clearance, this was pre posting so it was slipped on and off lets just say a few times, no issues





    Manifold was also on engine and remainder pipe as above was slipped on various times with again no issues, there must be some heat distortion or issue during the process with yours but either way you are gonna have to call/email them to explain others on the forum who have bought the manifold from them are not having any issues like this so have they have altered the jig there end from MattG's original build? Its got to be a manufacture issue, its a lot of money so don't accept that manifold ends are distorted to enable a tighter fit to stop the collector from sliding off, like you say there is a thing called exhaust clamps...

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  • Starmag
    replied
    It looks like the manifold sits nice and close to the block, good for clearance!
    Could just be what I'm after, are you able to take some more pics showing how close it is please? And if it's not too much trouble, a measurement of how far the manifold come out at it's furthest point

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  • fynnbar
    replied
    Yeah, that H&S 'excuse' is bullsh*t ...
    It needs cutting and tweaking

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  • Oz
    replied
    Sorry, I was supposed to have posted the before and after shots of the lowered engine, but just realised I didn't, so:-

    Before:-



    After



    I've dropped the engine 20mm in the Watsons frame which is about as far as it will go without modifying the lower rail to clear the gearbox

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  • Oz
    replied
    Further to my post above I have done some searching and found a build by a member called flipflop who built an Allspeed vtec with and H&S Manifold and found a few pics:-

    https://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=24939











    To be his manifold looks straight whereas mine is definitely kinked

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  • Oz
    replied
    I managed to lower the engine in the Watsons frame by redrilling the engine side mount bracket and cut and rewelded the gearbox side bracket 20mm lower







    I also trial fitted some parts I have picked up



    The Hayward and Scott manifold gives decent room for the grill and front panel



    but I have some issues with it:





    When I pulled it apart it came apart with a bit of a twang and now the pipes don't line up. I emailed H&S and they tell me its a design feature to stop the downpipes slipping out of the manifold (personally that's what I thought the clamps did !) and I have to squeeze the downpipes together to get them to line up but there is no way it'll squeeze together on the bench, let alone on the car. I PMed Kam and he says his H&S manifold will come apart and go back together by hand with the exhaust fitted to it on the car so I think mine does have an issue and I'm not sure I buy the explanation from H&S.
    Last edited by Oz; 24-03-2019, 09:08 PM.

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  • Oz
    replied
    Originally posted by geachy87 View Post
    What’s the plans for the pedals? I’ve got another steering rack coming that I’m going to try and fit in somehow, the metro one I took out seems to have vanished into thin air
    I'm still undecided.

    I'm not keen on modifying the pedals. The clutch shouldn't be a problem as several Honda guys use clutch stops to limit their pedal travel depending on which MC they use so a lot will depend on how the travel and bite point on the Clutchmasters internal slave I have works out. You'd hope the brake pedal should never have to go to the floor but if a circuit fails you'd really need as much travel as possible.

    My backstop option is to slightly mod the back of the subframe crossmember and the infill piece to be welded in to the bulkhead so that there is effectively a box the pedals can travel fully in to.

    Call it a work in progress at the moment.

    From your perspective you might not have as much of an issue. My goal was to get the frame as fall back as practically possible in my shell without replacing the whole bulkhead (a-la-Ringmini) but your goal is seeking clearance between your rack and your gearbox so you probably won't need to go back anywhere near as far as I have gone so you would probably need a much shallower bulkhead mod which might not impact on your pedals. I suspect you can get away without the extra mods to the inner wing to bulkhead join for the side plates and upper arm pivot nut and floor for the passenger side rack clearance issue I had.

    If the upper arm pivot nut is an issue you may find it easier to do what I did first which was to cut the nut in half (or just use the right size half-nut - I couldn't source any locally so I just cut the nut instead) and cut down the end of the pivot shaft to just proud of the nut with a spring washer behind. I initially did this for the Custom-Minis frame so I didn't have to put a box in the inner wing join but now I have the chance to get the frame back a little bit further I have to do this anyway !

    Also just bear in mind the further back you go the further the front wheels move back in the arch so if you've already fitted your wheel arche extensions then you might have to adjust their position as well.

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  • geachy87
    replied
    What’s the plans for the pedals? I’ve got another steering rack coming that I’m going to try and fit in somehow, the metro one I took out seems to have vanished into thin air

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  • Oz
    replied
    I thought this comparison was interesting, it shows how much extra room in front of the engine the Watsons frame allows which is one of the main reasons the extended front is 90mm (or 110mm in my case) and thus how by moving the frame back in the car and using the tricks that the Allspeed guys are using to get their motors under a standard front end that there is actually scope to get a vtec under a standard length front using the K series Metro frame. The subframe is the same one used in both photos (the B20 head is smaller than the B16 Vtec head but it does still show how things sit as the cam pulley end is the same width in both heads) !

    Before



    After



    Last edited by Oz; 14-03-2019, 05:07 PM.

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  • Oz
    replied
    I got a few hours at the garage yesterday. I made up some mock up plates out of some 1.5mm sheet I had and slotted the shock mount holes which meant I was able to slide the frame back and forth to get it aligned in the body



    I had to cut out some more metal around the bulkhead:

    At the inner wing join, I will have to put in little boxes to clear top arm pivot bolt and top spring retainer plate bolt



    and the steering rack mount was hitting the recess for the Mini steering rack so out came the grinder again



    The frame is definitely back a bit further compared to the picture posted earlier



    I tried my wings and front panel on just as a reference and was quite pleasantly surprised. The engine sits a bit high in the Watsons frame so I will try putting spacers under the mounts to lower the engine/box a little in the frame







    The rad is still the issue. It pushes the front panel out but I reckon by redesigning the Watsons removeable transmission mounting side bar set up to be like AWDs I think the rad will go in as it is being stopped from going back further by the side bar.




    The transfer housing/propshaft output flange is in about the right place



    I was expecting to have to have use a small extension to the wings and bonnet of about 2 inches but seeing this I think I may still be able to get it under a standard round nose if I can get the engine low enough.
    Last edited by Oz; 14-03-2019, 04:19 PM.

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  • Mini Vlatko
    replied
    Originally posted by Oz View Post
    I'm not really sure you are not the first to say they don't always show. They are working for me, I simply copy and paste the address from the Album they are save in.
    All I could think of is to try in different browser but that didn't help either

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