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B16a clubman estate Watson frame

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  • B16a clubman estate Watson frame

    Just a few picks from my Dad's a few weeks back. He's decided to have someone paint it for him and motivated by not having that task hanging over him is picking up the pace now

    It's got lots of neat touches: Brake and clutch master cylinders bulkhead mounted; in-tank pump; tubbed rear arches; lower dash rail raised to support re-positioned column with 2 UJs; welded inner wing splash guards.

    The frame has been modified a fair bit around the CV boots to give extra clearance as they were desperately close.



































    Always the perfectionist, this is a tig welded bearing insertion tool that he spent days playing with..... After making a motorised turntable so the workpiece moves and he can hold the tig torch in one place.



    He's been playing with this car on and off for nearly 20 years with this sort of sidetrack being the main reason.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • #2
    20 years?? Makes me feel better about taking 8 so far to do mine
    Looking good so far, interested to see further updates on this

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    • #3
      This year’s update.....


















      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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      • #4





        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        • #5



















          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          • #6
            Question for the Honda / Watsons boys. Has anyone had issues with brake pads backing off and consequently a long pedal? I ask because I think the metro had some gadget to maintain line pressure but not sure if it’s really needed. Dad seems to think his last conversion occasionally had this problem so he’s looking to sort it on this one.

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            • #7
              I've never had that issue with my brakes (Watsons Frame but with their HiSpec brake kit) but I found whilst the pedal bit right at the top there was still a lot of travel if you stood on the pedal and I could never get enough braking to stop very quickly or lock front the wheels, it felt like the pedal would hit the floor before.

              I am going to try standard GTi/MGF brakes as part of my rebuild to see if they improve the pedal feel.

              I'm running standard rear drums with Watsons spacers and 0.5" rear cylinders and the Rover direct-acting Servo that was standard on my Cooper.
              Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

              Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

              Comment


              • #8
                Ok, thanks Oz. He’s got metro discs & mini drums so I think he should be ok. Some mixed reviews online over whether the gadgets to keep some residual line pressure - and the pads near the discs - only work properly if you have discs front and rear

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Yellow View Post
                  Ok,Some mixed reviews online over whether the gadgets to keep some residual line pressure - and the pads near the discs - only work properly if you have discs front and rear
                  Except Rover Metros have drums on the rear

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                  • #10
                    I have the MGF /Metro GTi set up on the front, with Rover Metro drums and 1/2" cylinders on the rear, and haven't experienced this problem either

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by fynnbar View Post
                      Except Rover Metros have drums on the rear
                      Good point!

                      Thanks for the feedback guys, I’ll try to steer him down the route of keeping it simple rather than adding more pipes & widgets.

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                      • #12
                        Hi all, just re-activated my membership. Progress update since the last post:

                        Braking system done. My last build also used Clubman brakes but std mini master cylinder and pedals and no servo so they were pretty firm. I've fabricated pedalsfor this one to get lever arm correct for non-servo assist with horizontal master cylinders. Also fabricated dual reservoir. Did have a couple of soft pedal moments in the last build so I've added pressure retainers. 10 p.s.i is normal for metros but I have not retained the cooper S type pressure limiter to the rear on this one. Therefore plumbed in a 10 p.s.i valve to the discs and 2 p.s.i to the rear drums.

                        Rear end is pretty much standard but with mods to the subframe to admit the updated tank and my home made suspension height adjusters.. New stainless tank much modified to incorporate inernal.lift pump and swirl pot with inbuilt pressure pump. Rear brakes are std mini - worked fine in the last one. Only change is revised location and angle for handbrake to clear tunnel extension for the fabricated gearlinkage and steady restraints, big tunnel also allows completely straight exhaust and gear linkage and steady runs.

                        Front end subframe is based on Metro frame but no part of it remains as standard.

                        Body-wise, finished the internal strengthening with extra cross struts and bulhead welded in. It is now a two seater with internal secure boot and small under rear load bay boot. Seat mounts for Subaru Impreza seats with frames modified accordingly. Fabricated steering column to remove awful mini positioning and angle of column. Fabricated gear linkage, pedals installed, as are master cylinders.

                        Bespoke arches fit really well over tubbed rear and ride height noe pretty much perfect but still some room for an inch either way.

                        Next jobs are running fuel lines and plumbing up the cooling system. I have a crosswise rad which Geoff Watson had made for me to fit directly behind the grille and ahead of the exhaust, Means the rad is hidden beneath the slam panel.. Same as I used on the last build, with motorcycle cooling fans that are slimmer than most aftermarket fans.

                        Will be getting the car off the lift and back to ground level in the next couple of days when I want to crack on with the cooling system. If anyone has any hints or tips on what might be the minimum possible number of pipes and hoses = I want a heater but see no need to keep all the inlet and associated pipework) I would be most grateful. Engine has been sitting for so long I have completely forgotten where all the spigots are supposed be connected.

                        Photo dump being uploaded, more to follow when on the ground. 20210408_105408[1].jpg 20210408_105606[1].jpg 20210408_105534[1].jpg 20210408_105436[1].jpg

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                        • #13
                          I've moved the thread to the Honda build area
                          ​​​
                          Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

                          Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Car now on the ground. Photos attached. Be grateful for advice on minimum water hose connections required. Don't see why I need an idle air control as I shall be running a full programmable ECU. 20210415_131539[1].jpg 20210415_131452[1].jpg

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                            • #15
                              Watsons blanked mine off when they built the car and fitted a DTA ECU and it starts and idles fine from cold
                              Watsons frame in a standard length front, they said it was impossible ...

                              Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Watsons frame, it is possible

                              Comment

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