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B18B1 MTB1 Racer

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  • It’s a tight fit...







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    • I take it you are going AWD, very nice.

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      • Hi guys! Looks like the good old days of forums are over... i’m sad cause i prefer to come here and have all the information and shared experiences than go to Facebook or Instagram where information disappears as soon as it comes.

        Because I still would like to share my experience with you, i would like to ask where I could get my images hosted cause Photobucket is no longer free.

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        • I'm sure i saw some people fitting CR-V tranny and having the transfer case sitting close to the middle.

          But me, with the engine sitting at the same place with my existing drive shafts, it looks like I will have to cut the floor to widen the tunnel...



          Last edited by Station Wagon; 09-05-2020, 02:43 PM.

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          • Thinking of cutting along the red line and pivoting the front part... Hope it will be enough for the drive shaft to fit (a bit diagonally)

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            • Working on rear subby 3D model. I'm trying to make it as easy as possible to fabricate and integrate. Want it to take as less trunk space sa possible. Also want it to use standard mini subframe anchor points.



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              • Originally posted by Station Wagon View Post
                Working on rear subby 3D model. I'm trying to make it as easy as possible to fabricate and integrate. Want it to take as less trunk space sa possible. Also want it to use standard mini subframe anchor points.



                My thoughts - Are you running the exhaust under the rear seats and exit in front of rear wheel ? Else there is no provision foe the exhaust to come through along side propshaft. Also the diff should be rubber mounted to allow for some movement, your top mount at least looks solid mounted, I can't really tell with the rear mount but that looks solid too.
                New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

                Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Rover K series frame, will it all fit ??

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                • Originally posted by Oz View Post

                  My thoughts - Are you running the exhaust under the rear seats and exit in front of rear wheel ? Else there is no provision foe the exhaust to come through along side propshaft. Also the diff should be rubber mounted to allow for some movement, your top mount at least looks solid mounted, I can't really tell with the rear mount but that looks solid too.
                  Yes it's gonna be solid mounted like 90% people converting their Hondas (Civic, Integra, RSX). At first i tought it was a bit "red neck" but everyone on the Facebook page "Performance AWD Hondas" is going solid. All the kits are solid. I asked for feedbacks on the page and most people say that's it's livable even for a daily. Also, my car is no longer used on the street exept for small test rides.

                  For the exhaust, I don't plan on following the majority of the AWD Honda guys and have a hood exit but it will still be "extreme"... As I don't like Minitec a like way to embed mufflers to the floor, i was thinking of going with side pipe like this exept for the chrome coating :

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                  • Looks good from CAD pics. How will you adjust rear camber? I ask, because I am looking at this on my rear engine build for the trailing arms.
                    I think I will use slotted / elongated hole to be able to set the rose joint at a different height from the inboard joint. Keeping it clamped is my main concern.
                    Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
                    (use Irish accent)

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                    • Originally posted by Birdman View Post
                      Looks good from CAD pics. How will you adjust rear camber? I ask, because I am looking at this on my rear engine build for the trailing arms.
                      I think I will use slotted / elongated hole to be able to set the rose joint at a different height from the inboard joint. Keeping it clamped is my main concern.
                      For camber adjustment, i think we need to add a "camber plate" to the equation. Otherwise, i'm afraid your concern about keeping it clamped could become reality...

                      I would make a plate like this:




                      To hold the inner nut, I would block its rotation in a groove or weld it to the carmber plate:

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                      • Yes that is similar to what I'm planning, just the elongated adjuster holes will be controlling the height of the rod eye and bolt, like Z Cars setup. The other way I suppose is to use eccentric camber bolts, but that could be more tricky. Would be nice to have a setup that you just turned a single bolt to raise or lower the height of the rose joint so that setting would be really easy.
                        Whale Oil Beef Hooked!
                        (use Irish accent)

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                        • Hey I am not sure if this is asked, how big are your brake and clutch master cylinders?

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