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Kiwi B series build

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  • Kiwi B series build

    Have been building for awhile, should have put up a build sooner but never mind.

    Decided on a b16 as they are cheaper and more common.

    Just getting my head around the system - 'dammit jim I'm a engineer not a computer tech'
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Frame consists of 1 1/2'' 80 thou wall chrome moly tube running front to rear to stiffen up the guts, going up through the firewall at 4 points to make up the frame you can see.

    Is built into the shell and consists of no subframe.

    The engine/gearbox is removable from out the top of the engine bay, with having the RH gearbox mount detachable from the frame to give the extra clearance required to get out such a large lump.

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    • #3
      A huge thanks to wanago for the wiring help.

      About 50 hours to fully trace and chop wiring, I'm running mini loom as I want to keep mini switches etc.

      Two wires join the two looms together, first startup a success.
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #4
        Have since rebuilt the engine, it didn't really need doing but its nice to know what you've got, plus it wasn't hard at all just a few critical measurements and notes to make, but otherwise not bad.

        Head and manifold port matched and cleaned up, quite a step at the valve seats worth blending in.

        Other than that a compression rise, arp bolts throughout and head studs not bolts installed.
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          Balljoint extensions are machined and fitted.

          For easy maintenance I decided to position the top/bottom arm pivots further apart to give some more room.

          They screw onto hub with locktab underneath to secure them to hub, and then the top is a dulicate to that of the machining on the hub to fit the balljoint components into, so then the balljoints screw onto the extension.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            So have you submitted drawings/gained approval for these?

            Cheers
            www.eclipseengineering.co.nz

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            • #7
              My certifier knows well what stage I'm up to, and is very happy with the detail I'm going to, and understands my line of thought eg that its built 1st for safety.

              However, no I have not, that is the process I'm going though, I'm not too far away now till I'll be able to send them off, since they require full drawings I've had to make some of the bits so I can see how it effects the rest and I hope with this I'll be able to submit better drawings rather than a guess, so I'm taking somewhat of a risk if they find issue.

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              • #8
                Upgraded brake assembly is finished using a honda civic 240mm vented disc using a adaptor to bring the honda disc bell to the same height as the mini.
                Secured to the disc by a inner coller inside the disc.
                The mini driving flange then bolts to the adaptor - simple.

                One piece adaptor that bolts to the mini hub and then mounts the wilwood caliper which of course centres the caliper on the disc.

                Its comming along quite nice, going to be a fun machine, with room for improvement.

                However having quite a headache trying to decide what coilover brand to go for.
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Nice, but your pictures are too small
                  Ian

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Ball Joint extensions

                    BLMC VTEC:

                    Hey,
                    Hows it shakin?

                    This isn't for you as much as someone looking to duplicate your front hub extensions:
                    Over here in the states I have used hubs from what we call Austin America 1300 Sedans, (You guys call 'em?) the hubs are 1" taller, have the same ball joint as the mini they will take the mini ball joint studs,same drive hubs,&brgs; caliper pattern is a little off, but you make an adapter anyhow.
                    No design approval necessary I would think.
                    Cheers,
                    pepper
                    Last edited by Pepper; 28-02-2011, 03:41 PM.
                    So many Minis -So little time

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thats good info for those that don't have easy access to an engineering shop.

                      Depending on the clearance to your mag wheels the extensions create much needed room the ones pictured are 29mm each including the extra locktab so the arm inner pivots I have moved up 58mm.

                      Yeah shame pics are small would like the big pics like other builds but computers not my thing

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My Protech coilovers arrived today - and what a excellant piece of kit clean and tidy and very shiney.

                        A huge thumbsup to Kevin and Simon at Protech you guys rock.

                        The mounting points are fitted for a 1/2'' bolts, which was my requirement.

                        Springs to start with 400 Ib up front and 120 Ib at rear to get me started.

                        They sourced springs for me and fitted, I told them what I wanted and here they are, no drama, no issues - HIGHLY recommended from the usual suppliers I've used in the past.
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I really like the idea for the wider hub pivots but they do not seem very strong of there were to be side loadings placed on them, such as hitting a curb? The standard thread on mini hubs is inline with where the balljoint 'ball' is however yours now have 30m of leverage, I just hope it is well made. If there is an issue when tested you could maybe weld it to the hub? Or drill longtidudally through and bolt together also? Good luck.

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                          • #14
                            I hear what you are saying but the tensile strength of these is greater than cast mini hub - if I hit a curb the alloy wheel and tyre is going to absorb the impact - any failure of suspension would be expected as its outside its design.

                            Great amount of time and effort has gone into the design as I have no intention to write off the project one its rolling alot of it is one-off so no failure of any parts is not an option. For my safety and others.

                            These also screw square up to the shoulder at the bottom of the thread so loadings are placed on here and is plently strong enough now if the thread was only supporting the loadings now thats a setup I wouldn't use.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Showing the balljoint extentions in abit more detail for those that might consider for their own project - If there is a weak point it just might be the connection of the arm to the frame from what I've seen on aftermarket frames.

                              Second pic is suitable for circuit cars - always playing with ideas in my head you see - they simply screw onto hub with lockwasher underneath to secure - the difference is these are made for fitting of 1/2'' moly rose joints KPI remains the same - the plan is that they are fitted and a coilover is mounted directly above so weight/stresses are transferred up through the hub, through the 1/2'' bolt up into the coilover - to have coilover mounted inboard would put side loadings on the rose joint not recommended.

                              This might be just the answer for someone.
                              Attached Files

                              Comment

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