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Old 26-10-2012, 06:06 PM   #1
xtahoex
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Location: Agua Dulce, California
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Subframe: MTB
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Default Budget MTB2 B18B Build

I figured it was time to post my build log.

My name is Ryan, I live just outside of Los Angeles, California. I bought my project partially built in late August of 2012. The previous owner had bought a stock 1974 Mini (Morris Authi) and then bought an MTB2 package from Minitec. He started the build and cut the bulkhead (not in the correct location, and not big enough for the intake). The engine was mounted in the subframe but only connected to the bulkhead not the floor. I wondered why he stopped the install. When I bought the car I figured out why. The floors had been replaced at one point with what amounted to sheetmetal the thickness of tin foil. To strengthen the floor and rusty trunk the person then put fiberglass all over the place. I am sure when the previous owner discovered all of this he threw up his arms and said no more. When I got the car, I dis-assembled it and started from square one. I made a larger cut in the bulkhead and rebuilt a spot for a RHD clutch MC (prviously cut out by the PO, the car was originally a LHD). Being a cheap ass, I was searching for a way not to spend big money on a fuel cell and EFI pump... I saw a post where someone had cut a stock tank and widened it and fit an intank pump. So that's what I did. I used a Toyota Tacoma intank pump with fuel sender. Fits great and sits about 1/2" above the bottom of the fuel tank. Then I replaced all of the floor pans with 18 gauge steel which I bead rolled for strength. I also replaced the trunk which was very rusty. I again using sheet metal... I know these are not stock body panels, but I have about $50 in sheet metal and Mini panels would have cost me an arm and a leg to ship here. Next I went about making a removable front end. I am using the stock sheetmetal and retaining a working hood (can't bring myself to use the word bonnet). I decided to keep the a panels attached to the wings ( I think it looks cleaner). I used the standard Dzus fastners and hood pin combo. I still need two more Dzus fastners to suck the wings into the inner wings. I then remounted the subframe... this time solidly to the floor. I also boxed the steering rack mount and brought it in 1.25". I saw that another member had done something similar but they bent the mount back which brought the steering well down to a steep angle. I did'nt want to buy a joint, so I just brought the whole mount inside the cabin and boxed it. Should work, but I will see when the engine is remounted. That is where I currently stand... I am going to make a few repairs to the bulkhead and inner wing area and then paint those areas today.

This site has been so much help to me... Hope you guys enjoy the build.

Cheers

bulkhead.jpg

bulkhead 2.jpg

fuel tank.jpg

no floor.jpg

new floor.jpg
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:47 PM   #2
xtahoex
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More Photos
rusty boot.jpg

new boot.jpg

front end removed.jpg

front end mounted.jpg
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:49 PM   #3
xtahoex
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Rack modifications...
rack mount inside.jpg

rack outside.jpg

The mount worked out well, but I will have to make longer track rods and had to mod my pedal assembly...

More photos to follow.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:42 AM   #4
Keoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtahoex View Post
(can't bring myself to use the word bonnet)
you should put firewall back in your vocab also

Looks good so far man. I like the sheet metal work you've done, looks great. Keep working through the sheet metal fab, it seems like forever but its worth it in the end. Trust me.

next time you might use a photo hosting site (like this http://www.postimage.org/index.php?um=many) to put your pictures up. Just makes them easier to see.

do you already have your engine?
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:33 AM   #5
xtahoex
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Yeah photos look poor... I will try a hosting site next time. Just a time killer.

Yeah the engine came with the project. I am looking right now at a way to turbo it cheaply. I know it has no VTEC, but it is a decent platform for boost.

I am off to eat some wings... the buffalo variety, not the fender type.

Ryan
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:13 PM   #6
Furyof4
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Great work on the floor! The b18b is a great engine despite the lack of vtec.
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Old 14-01-2013, 07:06 PM   #7
xtahoex
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Ok, here is an update...

After completing the rack and pinion mod, I had to modify the pedal assembly so that the pedals would get full travel.



Then I started wiring the chassis and engine. Still deciding what kind of engine management to go with, but I am leaning towards OBD1 with Crome. Yeah I know the wiring looks chaotic, but I got it handled.



Then I decided that I needed to Turbo the engine. I tried a cast log manifold and the turbo was not anywhere near where it needed to be. It stuck out of the grill by several inches. No bueno.



I still wanted the turbo and since I had already bought a bunch of parts for it... I decided to by a cheap header and run the turbo remotely in the back of the car under the rear seat. Intercooler would be in the trunk along with a scavenge pump and oil cooler for the turbo. So I started by widening the tunnel for the exhaust and charge piping. The tunnel came out really good so I figured why stop there... I want to put the power to the ground. So I bought a 350 dollar Miata shell and here comes AWD.









I will try to update more regularly as I go.

Take Care.
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Old 14-01-2013, 09:42 PM   #8
Keoman
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Tunnel turned out great.
Have you started it up yet?
Did you seam weld the tunnel or just going to tach/fill?
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Old 14-01-2013, 11:41 PM   #9
xtahoex
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No, I was heading towards a start up. Then I decided I wanted a turbo and AWD. So, no start up for awhile.

The tunnel is just tacked in for right now. I am going to need to alter the rear seat area for the subframe and I am still trying to figure out if I should try to keep a rear seat or just use the space for the turbo and fuel tank. I tend to think that I would never use a rear seat, although I would love to have one for a more stock appearance. My wife has already told me that my 16 month old daughter will never ride in the car while she is in a carseat or booster seat. I have to agree with her. I was also low on gas when I was making the tunnel.
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Old 16-01-2013, 02:26 AM   #10
Keoman
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haha AWD and turbo. that's awesome man, defiantly going to be a hell of a ride.
You said your staying standard round nose w/ flip front right?

I've got to mod my tunnel eventually also as I would love AWD especially in the snow here, would be a blast and I would never hesitate to go anywhere. I could go skiing again and get good mileage!

Make sure and snap lots of pictures of your AWD install! Defiantly interested in how you fit everything as I will eventually be traveling that road. Best of luck.
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Old 16-01-2013, 05:27 AM   #11
xtahoex
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I am just going with a removable front... For some reason I don't like the flip idea. The front end even in steel form is light and easy to get off of the car. I just used a weatherpak connector for the wiring.

Thanks for the well wishes, I have been keeping up on your build thread too. Looks like, you will be done before me. Good luck with your ride too.
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Old 22-01-2013, 01:54 AM   #12
xtahoex
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Got some work done this last weekend. Pulled everything I could have off of the Miata. I think I actually may be able to make some money off of the random Miata parts that I stripped off.

I narrowed the rear subframe by 4.25". That leaves me with the stock Miata wheels sticking 3" outside of the fenders. I decided I am going to use the stock Miata wheels which are a +45 offset. So on the fronts, I will either have to redrill the wheels or get adapters. I also made my shock mounts. I think they turned out really nice. My welding is improving. I decided to use the stock shocks and mount them in the factory mounting geometry. That way it will be easy to replace the shocks with any aftermarket Miata setup.





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Old 22-01-2013, 02:01 AM   #13
xtahoex
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Got some work done this last weekend. Pulled everything I could have off of the Miata. I think I actually may be able to make some money off of the random Miata parts that I stripped off.

I narrowed the rear subframe by 4.25". That leaves me with the stock Miata wheels sticking 3" outside of the fenders. I decided I am going to use the stock Miata wheels which are a +45 offset. So on the fronts, I will either have to redrill the wheels or get adapters. I also made my shock mounts. I think they turned out really nice. My welding is improving. I decided to use the stock shocks and mount them in the factory mounting geometry. That way it will be easy to replace the shocks with any aftermarket Miata setup.





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Old 25-01-2013, 12:47 PM   #14
Keoman
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That looks fantastic Ryan. Should definatly stiffen up the rear of your mini a bit! Have you planned out how to mount it yet? Was it hard to cut the frame in half?

Also, did you take any weight measurements of it all finished up? Would be interested to see how much.

Are you planning on using the stock miata rear diff?

Last edited by Keoman; 08-02-2013 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 25-01-2013, 01:12 PM   #15
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What are you going to be using to transfer the power from the front to the rear? CRV transmission or is there a kit ?
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