Austin Allegro K series VVC build. - Page 22

niannorth · 07-03-2018, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edk83

Thanks, I've decided it was a bit too low though.

This is after raising the coilovers a bit, still a couple of degrees too much camber.

New ride height, doesnt look as badass but now I have more than 2" ground clearance!

I'm wanting to fit 280mm discs and there is no way they are going to fit under 14" wheels, gutted as I love the orange ones I bought but needs must.
15" to test fit, with 45 profile tyres they are actually not much more in diameter then my 14 with 50 profile.

https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

In case you need it.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

CooperWorks · 12-03-2018, 06:27 PM

Are you keeping the square steering wheel?

edk83 · 13-03-2018, 10:51 AM

Ha, nope only the mk1 came with the quartec wheel. I'm using an omp type wheel.

Current job is changing the lower ball joints as the mgf ones have too much camber. I have some rover 100 ones which have a few degrees less. Also I may slot the wishbones to allow adjustment. But first I have to drill out the stupid rivets !!

edk83 · 19-03-2018, 09:37 AM

So I've decided to stick with 14" wheels and the 240mm brakes, I'll add a remote servo if needed.

I've been busy drilling out the rivets on the mgf wishbones to fit R100 ball joints for less camber, might make them adjustable too if needed. The rivets have to be drilled, no way they are coming out any other way.

Oz · 19-03-2018, 11:36 AM

Always best to have the nuts on the bottom. In the unlikely event they work loose its less likely the bolts will fall out and the balljoint separate itself from the lower arm whilst at speed.

edk83 · 19-03-2018, 11:59 AM

Yes the bolts need to go in from the top, the ones that came with the r100 joints are only 8.8 so I'm going to change them for some high tensile. I just used these to whack through the arm and joint, it's packed full of sealant which made getting them in a fight. Not a bad idea though, once the camber is set I may seal them again.

AGoaty · 19-03-2018, 07:02 PM

I realise that you have done this to sort the camber out. A pic showing what it looks like now would help...

edk83 · 20-03-2018, 10:34 AM

So after fitting the Rover100 joints there is defiantly less camber, I still might make them adjustable though.

Oz · 20-03-2018, 01:02 PM

What make of tyres of those ?

edk83 · 20-03-2018, 02:38 PM

Maxxis MA-Z1, Msa approved

edk83 · 18-04-2018, 08:58 AM

Had it in for an alignment today, they had to narrow the ramps lol.

Now that the tracking is not toe'd in a load it drives quite well, just like a big mini.
I could do with drilling the left ball joint holes out slightly to get the camber equal both sides but it's within 1 degree. 2nd gear is a hoot

I did a good 20 mile on different roads yesterday and nothing fell off!

Improving the brakes is next, the effort it there but they could be better.

Posh wheels on at last!

MattG · 18-04-2018, 08:58 AM

cool , cant wait to see this in June

edk83 · 18-04-2018, 02:25 PM

Looking forward to a ride in the scooby! will it have a passenger seat?

MattG · 18-04-2018, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edk83

Looking forward to a ride in the scooby! will it have a passenger seat?

will make sure there is something to sit on ...

edk83 · 18-04-2018, 05:51 PM

Lol beer crate once they are polished off?

19-03-2018, 11:36 AM	#320
Oz Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Jersey, Channel Islands Posts: 4,150 Subframe: Other CC: 1595 Make: Honda ECU: DTA	Always best to have the nuts on the bottom. In the unlikely event they work loose its less likely the bolts will fall out and the balljoint separate itself from the lower arm whilst at speed. __________________ New subframe fitting has begun - slowly Build Thread - Standard Round Nose with K series subframe build begun

19-03-2018, 07:02 PM	#322
AGoaty Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Keighley, West Yorkshire Posts: 2,822 Subframe: Watson CC: 1796 Make: Rover ECU: Standard	I realise that you have done this to sort the camber out. A pic showing what it looks like now would help... __________________ If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

20-03-2018, 01:02 PM	#324
Oz Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Jersey, Channel Islands Posts: 4,150 Subframe: Other CC: 1595 Make: Honda ECU: DTA	What make of tyres of those ? __________________ New subframe fitting has begun - slowly Build Thread - Standard Round Nose with K series subframe build begun

18-04-2018, 08:58 AM	#327
MattG Administrator Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: West Sussex,UK Posts: 7,305 Subframe: Allspeed CC: 2000 Make: Vauxhall ECU: Megasquirt	cool , cant wait to see this in June __________________ Mini Restoration on YouTube VW camper in storage , Red hot , www.16vmini.co.uk www.jetblackmini.co.uk Dad's Building K1100 : bmw.16vmini.co.uk , donate to club running costs : paypal@16vminiclub.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

12-03-2018, 06:27 PM	#317
CooperWorks Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manchester Posts: 524 Subframe: Allspeed CC: 1.8VVC Make: Rover ECU: Mems 3	Are you keeping the square steering wheel?

13-03-2018, 10:51 AM	#318
edk83 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 580	Ha, nope only the mk1 came with the quartec wheel. I'm using an omp type wheel. Current job is changing the lower ball joints as the mgf ones have too much camber. I have some rover 100 ones which have a few degrees less. Also I may slot the wishbones to allow adjustment. But first I have to drill out the stupid rivets !!

19-03-2018, 09:37 AM	#319
edk83 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 580	So I've decided to stick with 14" wheels and the 240mm brakes, I'll add a remote servo if needed. I've been busy drilling out the rivets on the mgf wishbones to fit R100 ball joints for less camber, might make them adjustable too if needed. The rivets have to be drilled, no way they are coming out any other way.

19-03-2018, 11:59 AM	#321
edk83 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 580	Yes the bolts need to go in from the top, the ones that came with the r100 joints are only 8.8 so I'm going to change them for some high tensile. I just used these to whack through the arm and joint, it's packed full of sealant which made getting them in a fight. Not a bad idea though, once the camber is set I may seal them again.

20-03-2018, 10:34 AM	#323
edk83 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 580	So after fitting the Rover100 joints there is defiantly less camber, I still might make them adjustable though.

20-03-2018, 02:38 PM	#325
edk83 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 580	Maxxis MA-Z1, Msa approved

18-04-2018, 08:58 AM	#326
edk83 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 580	Had it in for an alignment today, they had to narrow the ramps lol. Now that the tracking is not toe'd in a load it drives quite well, just like a big mini. I could do with drilling the left ball joint holes out slightly to get the camber equal both sides but it's within 1 degree. 2nd gear is a hoot I did a good 20 mile on different roads yesterday and nothing fell off! Improving the brakes is next, the effort it there but they could be better. Posh wheels on at last!

18-04-2018, 02:25 PM	#328
edk83 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 580	Looking forward to a ride in the scooby! will it have a passenger seat?

18-04-2018, 05:51 PM	#330
edk83 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 580	Lol beer crate once they are polished off?