1976 Mk3 VVC Roundnose

[InstantCustard]

The one I the link is the one you want!


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[asahartz]

Daihatsu alternator is what you want.

[InstantCustard]

The little Nippon was used in a lot of cars, it was used in some Daihatsu's, can't remember which models, there was a thread a while back and I think it just got confusing, I identify it by its narrow mounts, the only advantage you'll get by buying one from a certain model car is that it will have the correct pulley on it.


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[will16]

Awesome, cheers dan! Think I might try this alternator, looks to be the same, but with a multi v pulley

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272484530449

Problem I've got with the rad, is that I can't get it far enough over because of the coolant pipes so I think this is its position haha

37D1FCBA-57E8-4287-BD92-5C3399F5CE8E_zpso8zaimia by Will Giddings, on Flickr

F5621C62-D3EB-41EA-AE72-E9D6728C676C_zpsttdnn549 by Will Giddings, on Flickr

[InstantCustard]

That's about where mine sits, much better than where you had it before, I put a bit of heat shield between the rad and the exhaust to deflect heat from the manifold which also acts as a bit of a shroud to guide air through the rad rather than around it.
You can buy the pulley separate.


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[AGoaty]

You can move the radiator closer to the engine. Mine is less than an inch away. Mine is also the other way round. It helped to clear the clutch cable which I see you haven't put the arm on the box yet. You will need to make the bracket and cup for that too before mounting the radiator to make sure there is enough clearance.

The metal pipe you have fitted to your engine is an MG F one. Ideally you want to swap that for a front engined car from A MG ZR, ZS or similar. You could cut the small pipe off that one if you wanted to. It's for the heater and points the wrong way.

I have a few alternator pulleys you can have. The one you show there is only a 4 vee pulley. Normally has 5. They are all the ones from the Rover alternator so have the 17mm centre hole.

[will16]

Thanks guys for the advice, I'll go for the first alternator then, even if it is more expensive :P. I've changed the rad position again now! I won't be using a heater so cut the pipe back (will chop it complelty when the engine comes out again) and moved the rad over and tilted it back more and did what Agoaty said and flipped it round (genius ). It means the plumbing should be a lot less and should give enough clearance for the clutch arm, I modded a 200 mount so already have a cup. Agoaty that's very kind of you about the pulleys, though would they fit a nippon? When I took the pulleys they had different sized holes :/. I've also stripped the loom out of the car and k engine loom to send it to gazwad

A1A638CA-37FF-4DD4-80D6-611D4FB2353C_zpsvj8gwzb2 by Will Giddings, on Flickr

E1447F73-216D-4A5C-AC02-A5DD27C439B7_zpsorzm2qiz by Will Giddings, on Flickr

[InstantCustard]

Just be careful you don't end up with your bottom hose rubbing up behind the grille and chafing through it, that's why I never spun my rad round.


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[AGoaty]

Just be careful you don't end up with your bottom hose rubbing up behind the grille and chafing through it, that's why I never spun my rad round.


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Ideally you want a silicone U bend for this. As Dan says it's very tight for space. You want the pipe to connect to the metal pipe at the back of the engine so run the hose under the radiator. I have also cut the pipe a little shorter to help not get kinks in the hose. Be careful to check it clears the clutch arm when the clutch is pressed fully down.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ash-180-Degree-U-Shape-Bend-Silicone-Silicon-Hose-Rubber-Coolant-Radiator-Pipe-/350715929564?var=&hash=item51a84c63dc:m:mbs4gblF7gaFa2jdtWYavzQ

[asahartz]

AdamB had one of the outlets on the radiator moved because of this.

[gazwad]

Hyundai accent rad would fit in there perfectly and the outlets sit in a nice place (have a look at my build)

[Yellow]

What model year / part code was your rad gazwad?


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[will16]

Thanks guys, ahead of you on the rad , the normal outlet is being blanked and a 32mm outlet is being welded straight out the bottom, should give me better clearance and not worry about reducers. Bought another alternator, had to cut the old mount apart, just need to weld it back together. Finished the manifold and front bar too. Loom is with gazwad and I'm getting chabblyvvc's torsen, once I've ordered a flywheel too the box can be rebuilt!

Started looking at the gear linkage too, is there a rule on its angle? Can it be quite steep?

8834F75D-6FAC-4F19-89CD-48C44435E8BD_zpseqrg5irf by Will Giddings, on Flickr

14CCE1EC-E0BB-494A-8E69-AA40739D81ED_zpsh41gp3hl by Will Giddings, on Flickr

[gazwad]

What model year / part code was your rad gazwad?


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Hyundai accent 1999-2005 1.3/1.5/1.6 core size 335x298x16
OEM Part Number 25310-25050

[AGoaty]

I would try and do the exhaust and gear linkage at the same time. Both of these can be adapted around each other. Space is tight. Mine comes out below the tunnel but not as low as the exhaust.



I like the alternator and bracket. I still need to convince Dan to alter his before it lets him down...