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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Telford Shropshire
Posts: 8
Subframe: Other
CC: 1400
Make: Rover
ECU: MBE
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Hi
Having had all the body shell work done we have now fitted the front metro subframe. The next step was to offer up the new arc angel fibreglass clubman front what a disaster it doesn’t fit. Does anyone know if it is possible to trim the subframe front enough to get it to fit under the flip front? Can I still use the original engine and gearbox mounts? Am I better having a removable front rather than flip? Any help would be appreciated one step forward two back !!! Regards Mark |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Keighley, West Yorkshire
Posts: 2,627
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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The front cross member of the Metro frame has always been an issue. That's why mine has a forward sloping valance to cover it. I realise this isn't beautiful but it works fine.
If you decide to cut the cross member then you need to replace it with some solid flat bar so that it's close to the exhaust down pipe. It is possible to do this and retain the rear sloping valance. This flat bar is best bolted on as once fitted you would not get the downpipe off should it need it.
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If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,045
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
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People tend to use the ABS front that has the ST Spoiler moulded in as it seems to give the extra room for the Metro frame
https://www.absmotorsport.co.uk/prod...an-st-2-piece/ pics on page in link
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New subframe fitting has begun - slowly Build Thread - Standard Round Nose with K series subframe build begun |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ayrshire, Scotland
Posts: 773
Subframe: Other
CC: 1396
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover mems
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I shortened the metro frame a bit by chopping off the front bar and re making the engine and gearbox mounting legs, then bolting on a solid front bar. This allows the clubman front to go on, but leaves the bar protruding underneath, hence i fitted a splitter to cover it
I had to cut a section out of the bar to allow the manifold to pass, so i then welded another section of box underneath it at 90 degs to restore the strngth ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk |
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Telford Shropshire
Posts: 8
Subframe: Other
CC: 1400
Make: Rover
ECU: MBE
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Hi
Thank you for the reply I am now thinking I may go for a fabricated steel front. It will be bolt on with a removable bonnet for general maintenance. Regards Mark |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Dorset
Posts: 1,220
Subframe: SAE
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: Standard obd1-P30
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I have a welded steel flip front and Metro frame.
I cut the front valance down the seam underneath the sidelights, bent it out to clear the frame, and welded in a fillet piece. Then welded in a plate to give me back the curve, and strengthening gussets inside to make it strong Hmmm. Tried to upload photos in the usual manner, but not happening. Grrr ! Last edited by fynnbar; 12-01-2018 at 08:22 AM. |
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,045
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
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![]() Quote:
http://www.theclubman.co.uk/project_k8.htm
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New subframe fitting has begun - slowly Build Thread - Standard Round Nose with K series subframe build begun |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Dorset
Posts: 1,220
Subframe: SAE
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: Standard obd1-P30
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