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Old 13-10-2017, 09:13 PM   #16
AGoaty
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I can only think the rectifier inside the alternator is wrong. Mine charges at 14.2 from a cold start but at under 1500rpm and never goes above that even when revved. I even run mine with a pulley 3 times the original diameter to slow it down.

Shame you aren't closer as could lend you a second hand one that has been tested on mine.

Thinking about this again. The alternator warning light should have a diode fitted to it. Have you got this in your loom?
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Old 14-10-2017, 08:23 AM   #17
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I can only think the rectifier inside the alternator is wrong. Mine charges at 14.2 from a cold start but at under 1500rpm and never goes above that even when revved. I even run mine with a pulley 3 times the original diameter to slow it down.

Shame you aren't closer as could lend you a second hand one that has been tested on mine.

Thinking about this again. The alternator warning light should have a diode fitted to it. Have you got this in your loom?
Thanks again .I have no idea if it has a diode within the loom as the was cut into the mini loom by somebody else I don't know
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Old 14-10-2017, 10:51 AM   #18
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I am sure either Gazwad or Evolution will know what this is and where it should be fitted.

I never got this involved with mine as it is all standard Rover 200 bits. I understand the diode is built into the MFU if using the standard Rover fusebox.
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Old 15-10-2017, 07:08 AM   #19
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the diode is only to stop the alternator supplying power to the ignition circuit through the warning light once the ignition is off - without it the engine will just keep running even with the key out! If you have the rover 200 etc clocks then it isn't needed as it has one built in and the later ones use an LED which does the same thing. But this wouldn't cause the problem you are having anyway.
What size battery do you have?
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Old 15-10-2017, 07:48 AM   #20
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the diode is only to stop the alternator supplying power to the ignition circuit through the warning light once the ignition is off - without it the engine will just keep running even with the key out! If you have the rover 200 etc clocks then it isn't needed as it has one built in and the later ones use an LED which does the same thing. But this wouldn't cause the problem you are having anyway.
What size battery do you have?
I have looked up the functions of the diode and as you say it would not be the cause.Andy says he has a larger dia. pulley on his, would this be beneficial if I could find one?
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Old 15-10-2017, 09:41 AM   #21
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Thanks to everyone who has helped but I believe I have peace of mind now .Itested the battery engine running it reads 14.4 gauge reads 15 so I think gauge is a bit out.Now I have new problem getting my caster correct I've started a new thread.
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Old 16-10-2017, 06:50 AM   #22
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mine charges between 14.4 - 14.8v which is pretty normal. I did find that I got through a couple of alternators when I was using a much bigger battery, I don't know if it was making the alternator work too hard. Also a heat shield helped on mine as well.
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Old 16-10-2017, 08:01 AM   #23
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mine charges between 14.4 - 14.8v which is pretty normal. I did find that I got through a couple of alternators when I was using a much bigger battery, I don't know if it was making the alternator work too hard. Also a heat shield helped on mine as well.
There may be something in that I have been using a diesel battery from a golf I had which fitted exactly into the tray.
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Old 16-10-2017, 09:26 AM   #24
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I cannot see the battery making any difference. Mine is huge. It was from my Rover 200 donor car and scrapes the sides of the battery box to squeeze it in. I had to make longer bolts to reach the retaining bracket.

I put a big pulley on to slow it down. This was because I broke 2 home made brackets, both on track days. My thinking was that the high revs caused it to vibrate. I have had no issues since fitting it but once running the car tends to go a reasonable distance.
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