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Old 04-08-2018, 12:53 PM   #616
InstantCustard
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https://minispares.com/product/classic/C-STR640.aspx


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Old 04-08-2018, 01:35 PM   #617
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Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
That's the rock an roll caused by no front to top support,


I don't think with all that bracing that's gonna be true Shaun.

It's simply run out of thread on the bolt.

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I agree that will fix the issue, but 20 plus delivery for 2 washers? I don't think so. I'll make some.
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Old 04-08-2018, 02:20 PM   #618
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I do , that's the main falcrum point , the whole caboosh levers off that stay point, it's done loads of work , fit them others and you're back on the dream,
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Old 04-08-2018, 03:57 PM   #619
gadget555
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That's what I have fitted to mine, just that I had to modify the subframe as it was one of Geoff's early ones and didn't have tower bolts welded to the frame, I've had to make a little spacer and a couple off washers at the bottom of the tower bolt else it tried to crush the cross member before the bolt was tight.
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Old 15-08-2018, 07:47 PM   #620
AGoaty
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So it appears I have been barking up the wrong tree with the tower bolt. I have got it tightened up but the metal to metal creaking noise didn't go away. I had to investigate further.

I noticed the front left had dropped slightly. Wasn't sure why so took the wheel off to look. At first couldn't see anything wrong. So thought, I'd just wind up the adjuster a little. When I did this, the whole HiLo didn't turn concentric to the knuckle joint. It went so far then jammed solid. Hmm.

Decided the only option was to strip it down to see what's up. Removed the side plate (one bolt seized solid so had to grind it off) then prised out the spring which fell on the floor. Looked at the knuckle, it had snapped in two!



Took some abuse but got the ball part out of the top arm.



Been trying to think and cannot ever remember having a knuckle snap so started thinking why.

Phoenix has always been bad with rough roads or speed bumps. It bottoms out on the suspension rather than hitting the bump stops. Looked at the arches and there isn't a mark on them. The wheel cannot physically reach it with the spring in place. The thing is, there is a gap between the bump stop and top arm when at full top suspension. This means it has never used it. The knuckle joint is the weak part so has snapped. On the second pic you can see that the shaft has moved to the edge of the hole and that was my noise.

Tried the wheel on and wound up the suspension to see how high it will go before hitting the bump stop.



Right into the arch! That's no use. So have made a bracket to fill the gap. It's not beautiful but serves it's purpose. Sorry, hard to see as blathered it in Shultz.



Tested it again and there is now over 10mm gap from the wheel to arch.

I have ordered some heavy duty knuckles (whatever that's all about) in order to get this done properly.

Thing is, The other side has the HiLo that has seized so need to do it all again.
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