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Old 03-09-2010, 12:35 PM   #16
minidaffy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MINIMAD30 View Post

Also going to start looking at altering the alternator possition as it sticks out slightly in the std roundnose and i want it completly hidden......
have you got room for something like this?? my d15b, but it doesn't have the injection in the way cos its on carbs....

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Old 03-09-2010, 12:36 PM   #17
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Yes, I thought if you were using an electrical gauge the sending unit would be separate and could also be a potential problem. A mechanical gauge, of course, is connected directly to the oil passageway via an oil line.
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Old 03-09-2010, 04:35 PM   #18
MINIMAD30
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yea, iv tried both to make sure im not going crazy. I can either get the entire d16a9 engine ecu etc for 200 or i can buy a new oil pump for 100 to see if that cures the problem?

the d16a9 is still in the car and can be seen running, seems like a decent price to me but now im not sure if it is the same height as my sohc d-series as iv not got alot of room height wise and could sit too high.
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Old 16-02-2011, 02:08 PM   #19
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I FINALLY HAVE !!! OIL PRESSURE!!!

Atlast i have got oil pressure, Installed a new oil pump, guage etc and it turned out that the guy i bought the origonal frame and engine off of had modded the sump in a way that apears to have been starving the oil pickup. Not sure how but it could be how he has welded it and its warped or just that its too close to the pickup pipe. Since making my own frame iv been able to attach a non modded sump and first turn of the key and boom!! 70 psi of pressure!!! woot!!

also managed to make a new wiring loom from a spare honda loom i had about and it works perfectly and is half the size of the one i was using. will post a few pics at some point and a video of it running now that its safe to run it!

After looking at some of these nice tubular frames again im going to try a tubular frame while the engine is out, but that wont be for a week or so.
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Old 19-07-2011, 10:25 AM   #20
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Started doing more bodywork since the engine is finally working and my frame is finished. Unfortunately the sills were rotten and inner sills needed some repairs but nothin too bad




Buffed back and zinc primed


New sill seam welded on



New valance on



Had to do a fair bit of weldin on heel board and arches/ boot floor but it's finally done and undersealed



Also had time to remove my aluminium beam off my dead Honda mini! Nice piece of work from a previous owner, weighs hardly anything! Not sure if it will be too light at the back but I Can only try it.





What's left of my old mini.....




Fitted

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Old 28-07-2011, 03:36 PM   #21
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What happened to your old one?

Also whats the engine code for your honda engine? ive heard that the D16z6 engine can give some really good results when tuned
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Old 28-07-2011, 08:22 PM   #22
MINIMAD30
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the old shell was bodged to death! rot everywhere, tangled wiring and a subframe i was less than pleased with lol! yea d-series can yeild great power, i will eventually be going turbo one day but untill then i will be doing a mini-me vtec conversion. about 130 bhp!
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Old 13-12-2011, 05:09 PM   #23
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The new 200 Amp AC/DC tig has arrived! arrived in less than 24 hours from R-tech welding!! Quite impressed with how it looks, just need to sort out the garage wiring before i can even turn it on.... 32Amp source required....

First project is modding my inlet to fit with no bulkhead mods, not for this project but possibly for my van.

will get some pics up in the next coupple of weeks on my progress!
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:27 PM   #24
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Well iv finally got some time to start working on the 30 again, plumbed in the mpi rad and made a bracket to support it yesterday. Managed to make my alternator mounts today, find a perfect sized belt and bolt it up today.



Bottom mount





Love having a plasma cutter! Slotting holes is easy work!



Looks straight

And it fits under my STD round nose, it only sticks out as far from the block as the exhaust manifold.

Made a wee form tool to make some fuel pipe brackets for under the car which I'll post some pics of tomorrow.

Plan is to do brakes and re- do fuel lines after I stole them for my minivan lol!
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:23 AM   #25
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Good work on the alternator

Quick question, how do you tension it? do you loosen the bottom screw/bolt and tilt it out?
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:31 AM   #26
MINIMAD30
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Thanks kam,

You got it in 1, same idea as original mini item. Will probably have to lengthen the runner on that bottom bracket when the belt loosens over time as its only got 5mm of adjustment left lol!
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:35 AM   #27
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I'm not sure how you got that belt on in the first place as it don't look like its got much movement going the other way either!

I can't even remember how the mini one gets tensioned up
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:44 AM   #28
MINIMAD30
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Have to remove the bolt from one half of the top bracket as well to get the belt on, let's the alternator get an extra 15 mm closer to the block and on the belt goes =)
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:07 PM   #29
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Anyone see the fan switch wire? lol!

Here are the fuel hose runners I made with my tool,




Did some brake lines today, found my braided hoses I lost ages ago in the garage so those will be put on tomorrow.

Last edited by MINIMAD30; 10-03-2012 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:16 PM   #30
MINIMAD30
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Well did a few bits today, welded up a section on the a post, fitted my mpi donor doors



Not sure about the colour.

Managed To tidy the loom a bit and get it wired to the new fuse box, after a lot of head scratching I finally got it to turn over! Got the terminals on the starter relay mixed up.... It's been that long since I did any work on the loom that the ink has run off all the labels on the wiring lol!! Have now got it all hooked up properly, I hope..

Wee pic of how the engine bay looks now, quite crowded but still fits under a STD front.

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