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Old 11-05-2008, 05:11 PM   #1
DarrenW
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Default Love hate relationship and never ending build of a mini!

Well spent alot of the last 6 months redoing/modelling the front end, so I could fit in a much bigger radiator and get more air flow though the radiator core on the move. Had loads of issues and still got them with a brand new bonnet, that after spraying, now needs welding on the bonnet hinge...Rotten mini needs scraping

Got side tracked over winter and did a couple of items on the mini, like eventually did the first proper mockup of a nice leather steering shroud, to cover my corsa power steering column, with mini stalks attached to it.

Will redo the leather shroud over next winter on one side to get it how I want it, but ran at off time.

Got the MOT on friday and hopefully it will pass, so that I can goto L2B on Sunday

Will up load some pictures later

Pictures of mini currently:-


Engine bay prior to change of grill:-



Picture of Interior:-


Last edited by DarrenW; 21-12-2009 at 11:59 AM. Reason: To include upto pictures
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Old 11-05-2008, 05:43 PM   #2
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Default Steering Shroud mock up & build

Started off like:-



First mould looked like this:-



First bolt up looked like this:-




Shroud, how it finished up(the best side :P ):-

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Old 11-05-2008, 06:10 PM   #3
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Old 11-05-2008, 06:26 PM   #4
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your mini is posh.
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Old 11-05-2008, 07:46 PM   #5
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what steering wheel is that?
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:56 PM   #6
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DW, you're a flash git :P could you have not extended the larger bit on the shroud all the way to the bottom so it looked like it was supposed to be there?

I didn't have to do that with mine at all, are you using a Corsa c column? on mine i just welded the mini column to the Corsa stub, it fitted like it was almost meant to be there

M.
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:15 PM   #7
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Cable, The steering wheel, I had to import, its a Momo Superindy wheel.

The column is all corsa C, as I didnt feel happy welding the mini top to the corsa column tbh But that would be the best route for looking completely standard for sure

The big bit is fairly big and I think if I had extended it downwards would have made it look even massive.
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:27 PM   #8
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Default Previous history of radiators

As part of wishing to get an even bigger radiator in the mini, so I can make changes in the future. The front end needed redoing with more airflow though to the radiator and the slam panel was moved up, to allow a taller radiator to be fitted.

However to give some history of the current day set up….

Pictures tells a thousand words…the first radiator that I replaced back in 2005, with a larger radiator at the time looked like this (the lower is the smallish radiator fitted originally and changed for the bigger one in 2005)



The original one was fitted with a 10” fan and was not man enough to cope with cooling my engine. Even on cool days at idle, it could overheat. Hence why I changed the radiator as soon as I began to use it.

Once the bigger radiator was fitted it looked like this:-



Ran into headlamp clearance issues and had to redo the grill and modify the sidelight/indicator set-up to clear the radiator at the bottom (why is nothing ever easy with a mini , I only wished for a bigger radiator!!)






To get this to fit in the front end, the front end needed some bashing around as well to get enough clearance. Nice big hammer did the job

This was initially fitted with an 11” fan and a small 6.5” bike fan, which coped with very hot days at idle and would cool to about 88 degrees, but it did take a long time to get to that temperature from 94 on very hot days(it took 12 minutes of fans on to cool from 94 to 88 and only took one minute to heat back upto 94!!! ).

The following winter(2006), I made various changes to the way the clutch slave cylinder pipework was ran, changed the inlet air intake set-up completely and the header tank set-up and this enable me to fit in an 11” fan and a 8” fan. Final picture of the 2005 set-up showing the 8" fan fitted:-



This was better than previous, but I still wasn’t really happy with it, as I expect production car standard really. And on hot days on the move, I would need to turn on the 11" fan(this is behind the lights/front panel, so no natural airflow) every now and then, to just bring the water temp down from high 80s to low 80s, didnt take long of fan on. At idle it was better than before and I could have lived with it.

As a result the next step meant a completely new front end, to allow better airflow though the radiator and to change the slam panel set-up, bonnet catches and modify the bonnet set-up, which would then allow me to run a taller and longer radiator and a crossflow designed radiator. Some people would probably ask why, well
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:35 PM   #9
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didnt realise you had air con aswell. thats uber posh. you could do with getting some pics up of your posh mini, havnt seen much of it

just a thought mate, could it be that the cores in your radiarors are jstu a pineapple design? or the car is mapped to retarded? my tiny scrappie special micra rad keeps my engine cool in hot weather and traffic no bother. may be worth getting a good OE alloy rand and re-capping the ends to suit
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:18 AM   #10
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For those that havent seen this georgeous mini before heres a few poor quality pics ( ) from MITP 07, quite possibly the best Vtec mini i have seen, pure luxury AND its fast





and before he made the collumn cover



Im a big fan of your car Darren on a gloomy day it really stood out at the show and thats amongst all the other 16v club minis and to pull it apart to make it even better is pure dedication/madness, depending on how you look at it

i am inclined to say the similar to evolution though, wouldnt for example standard teg Type R or similar rad cool it to a good factory standard? the tegs can take punishment standard and are built for day to day driving as well?

seems a shame your spending a small fortune (not that small) on alloy rads and its not solving the problem currently correct me if i am wrong but from my experience the fan shouldnt need to be used unless at standstill or in traffic etc?

good luck solving it and we await the updates

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Old 12-05-2008, 06:18 AM   #11
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^^^ What he said?

I'm running a std honda rad, no overheating issues and not even noticed the fan comming on yet.

it is smaller and thinner than that ally unit by the loks of trix too so more space

just a thought...
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:02 AM   #12
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The radiators were made by Radtec, and is a 2 core 42mm design IIRC.

To be honest nothing wrong with Radtecs radiator, it is more to do with the engine setup.

From the research I have done, whilst the radiator may look massive, it isnt as big as you think, as it is not very tall. And it is smaller than an integra type r radiator and the engine has higher compression and more ooof . On top of this only about 35% of it is in the airflow though the grill. The clubmans have terrible grill area on Vtecs, to cool a radiator with airflow, hence only about 35% in the airflow.

In addition it would appear that with higher compression then cooling becoming a greater issue.

Also bear in mind, I expect to be able to cool my water to 80degrees on a roasting hot day, you are all probably running at something like 95 plus degrees, which makes cooling easier. I am so stupid, doh!

The more recent radiator is made by someone else and is the slighty better 1 core 40mm design, but has much longer rows as it is a crossflow design and is bigger again and more airflow though the radiator. I hope it works and first tests, say it has , otherwise it is scrap metal and scrap metal price has gone up in value alot!!!
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:38 AM   #13
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The first part in getting in the bigger radiator was to be, a complete repositioning of the bonnet catch and safety catch mechanism. As the original one wouldn’t fit, Grrr!

Took a while and some searching to find a suitable one, but here is the suitable catch, with one fixing bent round. Nice and compact :-



We then milled a suitable key to fit the catch:-



This is how it looked once fitted (slightly on the long side the key is in this picture!! ):-



The most fun tool I have, if you ever have the chance, a big disc cutter...its like going into Vtec :-

http://www.vtecmini.com/vtecmini/bon...ingbracket.MOV

First mock up of the bonnet loop catch(after this picture I had to compress it further to bring the ‘rods’ together, cant think of how to explain it ):-



The slot cut in the top of the slam panel for the loop:-



Then a quick test fit:-

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Old 12-05-2008, 09:50 AM   #14
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Default Onto the fixings of the catch etc

This is a view of the bonnet catch fixed and the revised slam panel(that is flat with a lip), from the underneath:-



From this view you can see how much extra room is made, between the ‘flat’ slam panel and the old radiator, loads of extra room for the bigger radiator(hooray!! ):-




This was the return spring mounted on a fixing, to then be mounted to the bonnet:-




Then had to figure out how to protect the slam panel paint from damage, first of all started with a square striker plate, but due to all the angles of the slam panel and engine, this looked terrible. :big rolling eyes icon:

After much head itching and hair pulling, one night in bed, PING came an idea!

A big stainless penny washer came to the rescue!!! Searched and found a suitable sized one. Stop thinking naughty boys and girls :P

We then milled the opening for a slot (easier said than done on a round thin object!!). Here it is:-

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Old 12-05-2008, 11:37 AM   #15
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Darren,
Lovely build BTW.

Cooling ............. you appear to be missing a very fundamental criteria..

AIR FLOW THROUGH RADIATOR CORE;.... YOU NEED TO INCREASE IT .............It doesn't matter how big your radiator is , if there isn't sufficient air flow to take the heat away it will be useless.

How ?? ?

Easy

Blank off all of those ' easy' routes around the radiator. The air flow through the rad core is dependent on the differential pressure between its front face and its rear face.
If for example, your car is travelling at 70 mph you may have a positive pressure of say 100 millibars at the front of your rad . To get the best air flow, the rear side needs to be at 0 millibar (or less) depending on the core restriction etc. With a big gaping hole just to the side of your rad ( where your exhaust manifold is) that 100millibar pressure is going to fill the enginebay and pressurise it to not much short of 100 millibar. Therefore the flow through your rad core is next to zilch due to virtually nil differential pressure.
Blank off , and duct that 100 millibar front side air so it all goes through your rad and the front side of the rad could be seeing 200 millbar pressure ( at the same road speed as before ) whilst the rear side is probably at minus 50 millbar.... giving a pressure differential of 250 mbar !!! or about 20 times the air flow.

If you doubt my theory , have a look under the bonnet of any production car ...very few gaps ...it all goes through the rad.

A hole ought to be left for the alternator ............everything else will survive.


Stay Cool . Mini's rule.
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