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Old 25-05-2011, 10:32 AM   #1
gazwad
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Default Wiring Guide and Diagrams

I can now offer a loom conversion service (plug and play looms) - pm me for details



I’ve been meaning to make a wiring guide for some time and had to do a loom recently so I’ve finally gotten around to it, could someone sticky this?

This is for a MEMS 1.9 (EU2) loom, i.e. rover 200/400/mgf with the dizzy and single coil pack. It is also the same as the MEMS 2j 143bhp vvc engines. The later MEMS 3 looms are very similar so this should give you a good start – I will hopefully add a full mems3 guide later.

When you remove the loom from the donor car make sure you get the complete engine loom and where it connects to the rest of the car take the plugs and cut off a few inches of spare wire. Also get the fuse box attached to the engine loom and again cut off wires leading to the rest of the car. Also try and get the fan relay (plus wiring) which is usually near the fuse box. You’ll also need the 5as immobiliser, ecu and the keyfob. These must be kept as car sets as they are coded together, you will also need the plug and a length of wiring for the 5as which is found under the dash (right up behind the clocks) of the rover 200s/25 and I think the 400/45. I think it is behind the centre console in the mgf. Finally make sure you have the multi-function relay unit, this plugs into the main engine loom so is usually attached. Try not to cut any of the engine loom up.
These are the plugs you will need to get running.
1. The main engine loom to body loom plug, usually grey this is connector number C162 in the rover rave manual:


2. This round plug, this goes to the fan so will be connected to the fan relay later:


3. The 5as grey plug, some units have 2 plugs – you only need the grey one to run the engine:


4. Fuse box plugs, unwrap the loom and you’ll see which wires go into the loom and which ones got cut off:



5. Fan relay and wires:



Disconnect these plugs from the loom to make things easier then connect them together as the diagram below, then tape this ‘mini’ loom up to make it neat and easier to handle:


There is a thick red wire which goes from the fuse box, into the engine loom and then emerges out again and is attached to a battery clamp. This is the main power supply and the link from the alternator back to the battery, the easiest thing to do is to remove the battery clamp and connect this to the main starter motor connector then connect the main battery cable in the mini (which originally goes to the starter/solenoid) to the main terminal on the starter as well. Note you do not need the mini solenoid for this setup.

The spare wires coming out of the main fuse box can now be used to supply the rest of the car with power, so where the mini loom originally got its feed from (usually off the solenoid) is where to connect these.

Any other connectors/wires left over are not needed, there are a few for aircon/abs etc etc so don’t worry about them.

Make sure you connect all earths and attach a couple of hefty earth straps between the engine block and chassis. When first connecting the battery you’ll need to press the lock button on the keyfob 4 times to realign it with the 5as – it will click when this happens, then unlock it and you should be able to turn on the ignition and hear the fuel pump, and the ignition light should come on. You can now start the car!

Good luck!

edit: rover 400 loom added below (pm me for hi res)


edit: DOH! i've got one wire wrong in the diagrams-
the WN wire from the grey plug is the oil pressure warning light, so should not be connected to the other wires. connect this to the mini loom, usually the same colour (WN) unless you have an oil pressure gauge.

I'll update the diagrams asap. - done.



TO ADD-
You may need to add a diode into the ignition warning lamp circuit if you are using mini gauges - if you don't then the power from the alternator can drive the switched live circuits and keep the engine running even with the key removed! Just solder in a diode (1N5400 works well - see: http://www.maplin.co.uk/3a-silicon-rectifiers-46405) between the bulb and alternator (brown/yellow wire) with the end with a band around it pointing towards the alternator.

Also If you want to add remote central locking or total closure power windows the open/close pulse feeds from the 5as unit are the orange and pink wires.
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Last edited by gazwad; 10-07-2012 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 25-05-2011, 11:02 AM   #2
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sorry for the low res diagram, photobucket is pineapple - anyone know where i can put a high res version?
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Old 25-05-2011, 07:11 PM   #3
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Thanks very heplful, and made simple for the non spsrks type like me
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Old 26-05-2011, 08:01 PM   #4
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Getting the wiring right for my car to run has been a utter pain in the buttocks.

ill try this tomorrow, and if it works i will make sweet sweet love to you.
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Old 26-05-2011, 09:55 PM   #5
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Good guide, cheers!
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Old 27-05-2011, 09:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broomer View Post
Getting the wiring right for my car to run has been a utter pain in the buttocks.

ill try this tomorrow, and if it works i will make sweet sweet love to you.

thats slightly worrying! i'm hoping i've got it wrong now...
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Old 30-05-2011, 09:27 PM   #7
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you are a top bloke for doing this, it's the one thing in conversions that I hate, when I get round to doing my mini and it works, cause it will wot am I saying, there'll be a beer or two waiting for yer
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Old 31-05-2011, 08:22 AM   #8
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no problem, good to share the knowledge! i'm having trouble getting a decent image of the diagram uploaded so if anyone wants a better version pm me your email address and i'll send a jpeg.
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Old 31-05-2011, 05:56 PM   #9
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A rover 400 and 200 have different grey plug pin outs and some wire color differences Gaz. Or so i was told after doing a guide for the T16 conversion.
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:00 AM   #10
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yes matt, there doesn't seem to be much consistancy though as i've had looms from identical age and model cars but with slightly different wire colours! it seems rover just used whatever wire the had lying around at the time...
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:40 PM   #11
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just given it a go, and found alot of the colors are different on my 400 loom, managed to trace them all back through the engine loom and work out whats what but i still need to know what pin on the 5as to wire up the IGN switch (green and pink) and what the blue and grey goes to on the engine plug, as nothing on my MFRU plug has a blue and grey wire...

any help chaps?
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Old 02-06-2011, 03:03 PM   #12
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I'll try and post up the 400 differences tomorrow if I get a chance.
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Old 02-06-2011, 06:39 PM   #13
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416 Bulkhead plug.


A1 ground
A2 tacho
A3
B1 clock temperature
B2
B3 speedo signal
B4
C1 Battery light
C2 Reverse light
C3
C4 Oil light
D1 fuel pump
D2 Ignition live
D3 reverse light

Purge canister and 5 as is missing. I will check these and add them. I know the purge is usually yellow with red stripe. 5as is normally blue with Grey stripe.
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:41 AM   #14
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cheers matt, rover 400 loom diagram added to first post, there are a few differences and i've not included the fusebox as it's a bit bulky and not a simple so not really suitable to use, you'll also need to add a cooling fan relay but the switched earth is on the diagram.
pm me your email address if you need a high res version.
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:16 AM   #15
gazwad
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DOH! i've got one wire wrong in the diagrams-
the WN wire from the grey plug is the oil pressure warning light, so should not be connected to the other wires. connect this to the mini loom, usually the same colour (WN) unless you have an oil pressure gauge.

I'll update the diagrams asap.
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