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Old 14-01-2018, 11:01 AM   #91
Yellow
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Take it steady over the hump-back bridges then several on here have contact on full droop (though from memory theirs are brake calliper touching tie bar). I'm thinking about fitting thicker droop stops on the subframe under the top arms to limit the travel- might work on yours?


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Old 14-01-2018, 01:37 PM   #92
ZA-J
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Will give it a road test first. Another possibility is to notch the frame on mine. It’s beefy box we’ve used, so could modify it around the arms if needs be.
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Old 18-01-2018, 06:14 PM   #93
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forgot to take a photo of the protractor i use for camber and castor, the two prongs can slide up and down to meet the balljoint nuts. obviously needs to be used on a flat floor:
IMAG0070 by garrywadey, on Flickr
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Old 18-01-2018, 08:25 PM   #94
Yellow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazwad View Post
forgot to take a photo of the protractor i use for camber and castor, the two prongs can slide up and down to meet the balljoint nuts. obviously needs to be used on a flat floor:
IMAG0070 by garrywadey, on Flickr

That's neat. Are the readings accurate with the car in the air and the suspension dropped down? It thought the settings should be done with the car at normal ride height? Unless I've misunderstood how it's used?


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Old 19-01-2018, 09:52 AM   #95
gazwad
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yes it's used on the ground at normal ride height, turn the wheel so you have access and this can be used behind the wheel, it's slightly fiddly but very cheap and pretty accurate (had mine checked on a laser alignment after and everything was spot on)
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Old 20-01-2018, 09:23 AM   #96
InstantCustard
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I use one of these which again is surprisingly accurate when it was checked with a laser a few weeks after I set it up.
https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motor...r-camber-gauge


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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