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#46 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Thanks for your concerns, I see where you are coming from and I admit the welds on the front face are a bit weak. This was the first side that I did, on a lower setting. When I came away from that side I whacked the mig up for the other three sides and I think that it's safe. I did give it a good few hammer blows to see if it had any sign of weakness but it may be something I come back to once I put it all back together (as it's currently out of the car). As I did rush it a bit.
But thanks all the same. After-thought; what I think I may do is take out all of the original pedal (in the indent) and then weld the three exposed edges together on that side also. If you see? Last edited by Vard3n; 23-01-2010 at 04:51 PM. |
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#47 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Hello everyone.
Tonight I have offered up the Metro frame and I am quite confident I can make it fit. This is my plan.... (excuse my Paint 'skills') ![]() ![]() The RED squared black area will be a channel, three sides, 90 degree bends. On the front face, this will be welded to the GREEN squared flat plate (5mm steel). This assembly will then be welded to the subframe (around the channel) The GREY dots on the GREEN squared plate are bolts. These will pass through the RED dots on the heel board. This area will be reinforced as per the front subframe rear mounts. ![]() That will take care of the front mounts. As for the rear, i will replicate some supports, similar to the original rear mounts, fixed to the wheel well and the boot floor. Bolts will pass from the hydrogas section on the subframe, through the boot floor and to a reinforced and supported area within the boot. The raised sections on the subframe will have to be catered for but I think I can modify the floor slightly to avoid these. ![]() ![]() In the last pictures, I am concentrating on a section of the radius arm that I think will be useable as a coilover mounting location. This lines up pretty well with the top chassis mounting point. I think from top to bottom it's about 9mm out. So...... so far I'm happy. I'll see how things progress. Last edited by Vard3n; 25-01-2010 at 09:03 PM. |
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#48 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 3,305
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Surely if you are fitting coilovers you can just remove lots of the subframe where the hydragas units fit and turn it into a mini style beam subframe. No need for rear mounts then either.
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#49 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Is this so? It had crossed my mind but I wasn't sure if just the two mounts on the heel board would be enough to support it?
Come to think about it, now you have mentioned it, I guess by design the mini alternative is pretty much identical? So..... I shouldn't have any problems come MOT time with a cut down version? Thanks for the advice, Geehawk. It sounds better coming from someone else. As I said I had thought about it but dismissed it straight away. Thankyou. Prob saved me quite some time and effort. |
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#50 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 3,305
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No reason MOT should be a problem if it's done well.
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#51 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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OK, Thanks Geehawk.
Uh..... a couple of nights worth of labour. Boot 'single skinned' ![]() Boot floor completely seam welded. Now just grinding off excess at rear and smoothing off. Will filler it as well once all welding/grinding is done. ![]() Cut out rear bench lip in anticipation of the rear subframe. This gives me access to the heel board so I can reinforce my mounting areas. ![]() and finally, I have trimmed down the metro subframe. Only lightly and I'm still uncertain as to whether I can remove the second horizontal beam. It does not seem to be heavily supported, But I do not want to weaken it too much? Any suggestions/views very welcome. Can take better picture if required. ![]() About it.... |
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#52 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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A little more done today. This picture highlights the larger items I accomplished;
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Done a few other small bits but nothing exciting; Red Oxide primer-ing bare areas and welding all the holes in the floor (left when removing those plastic cap things). Also stiffened up the metro crossmember. About it I guess. Going to try and get the rear subframe hung beginning of next week. I have a feeling that the wheel will sit a little further back in arch. It will fit in the standard arch but I'd like it on it's bum, so i'll tub them and extend it back a little. Prob to the seam between rear quarter and rear. |
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#53 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Right, Today I have successfully mounted the Metro rear subframe. Which I am happy with.
With a little bit of persuasion...... ![]() The home-made mounts mounted up with the heel board very well. It was solid and all seemed to line up well.... The wheel sits quite far back in the arch so it will need taking back. I think i'll tub the arches and while I'm at it extend it back to the seam. I am affraid I did not take any pictures of it mounted but.... here are my mounts (only tacked on but they are fully welded now). From behind- ![]() Mounting face inc. 5mm spacer ![]() ..... So.... need to sort the hole in the arch, buy and make mounts for coilovers and tub/extend the arch. Lots to do |
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#54 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Started a few bits today, only one of which I finished. Was one of those days!
Made some 'end caps' for the subframe. Just so it looks a bit neater - ![]() Started fitting my gear linkage channel, welded one side but have no access to the other so will have to wait - ![]() Finally, I started to tub and extend the nearside arch. I do not have any material to finish this yet so will also have to wait - ![]() ![]() In this picture you can see how far I will extend the rear of the arch backwards, This should hopefully allow me to run the car nice and low. time will tell as need to sort some sort of suspension out
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#55 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wakefield
Posts: 168
Subframe: Other
CC: 1600
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Seem to be making good progress i like the gear change tunnel
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#56 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Thanks Danny.
Yeah, seems to be coming together. Although, as stated, had one of those days where not a lot went right. Nevermind. How are you getting on? Any progress with your front suspension? I'm a bit 'iffy' with mine (front and rear) |
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#57 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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uh... going to be a bit picture heavy, this one....
first off... yesterday, I fixed both my doors. Which were FUBAR along the bottom and the skins. SO, pretty much all new metal along the bottom edge. ![]() ![]() Then tonight, I thought I would re-fit the rear subframe to see if the mods I had made to the arch were sufficient. In short, I am happy I can run the car at a nice height and the wheel will bottom out on the top of the inner arch before the, previously problematic, rear edge would come into contact. This is how the wheel sits with the chassic rested on it. ie. No suspension, yet. ![]() ![]() Compared to an un-altered arch. ![]() Notice how it hits the rear first. This is how the car sits resting on the tyre... ![]() But this is how I would preferably like to run the car... ![]() As you can see here, how the wheel sits further back in the arch.... ![]() Lastly, here is a few pictures of how the subframe is attached. You can't really see a lot but get the idea..... ![]() ![]() This is about it for now.... until I have finalized my suspension plans and purchased my bits, this is how it will remain. I plan to get the suspension all set-up and made, then fit engine to make rear engine mount. Then remove it all and spin the car over. Sort out all of the chassis and tidy and paint everything then put it all back together. Easy, Eh?? |
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#58 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Dorset
Posts: 387
Subframe: Allspeed
CC: 1600
Make: Honda
ECU: Standard
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#59 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 34
CC: 1397
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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I'll be honest. This is something I have not thought about, as my options are pretty limitless. I think there's space between the frame and original exhaust tunnel for a 2" bore to fit through. So, i'll probably cut and shut an exhaust to fit over this or route it differently to exit the side. A bridge I will cross when I get to it
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