finally... my own.

[speedy]

hey guys,

finally found the time te get on with my own mini.
well...aleast one of the three.
over the winter i made in the little spare time a dashboard.
and in the last weeks i made a frame and some mounts.
will try to get some pictures up. http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb030.jpg
this is the start.
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb026.jpg
here is the dash with the clocks from the swift gti
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb005.jpg
and here the engine is in.
it may not look like much...but i'm very happy.

[speedy]

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb018.jpg
here is a pic from the rightside front mount.
will make some more when the engine is out.

also made a badge for the bonnet
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb031.jpg

[Spiyda]

Excellent...

more pics !!!

especially of the subframe :)

did you cut the original swift instrument cluster up to get that layout ?
it looks ace!

[speedy]

well.... the frame is out,and welded the mounts up.
and made the mounting for the alternator. the crankpully is shortend
on a lathe and dropped from 1,4kg to 1,0 kg.
the engine and box with innerpots weigh 107,8 kg.
here some pics of the work so far.
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3199.jpg
the rear mount is ready

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3202.jpg
so is the left one

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3200.jpg
and the right one ...

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3201.jpg
thats allso the alternatormount.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3205.jpg
here is the pully

[Pete_H]

alternator mounts is really nice....looks like one terry g did. Wish I had done mine like that.

Keep up the good work :)

[speedy]

hi guys,

have done a bit the last days.
the frame is completely done and the mini is on her wheels again.
for the the bottemarms i used the original pins and reworked them,
i found that idea here on the forum a while back. and it works great!

here are some pics from the finished item.... http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3212.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3215.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3217.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3216.jpg

and here are the pins i made
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3219.jpg

next job is to sort out this.....
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3218.jpg

[speedy]

there is one little thing i did extra yesterday...
i weight a complete 1275 a series compl with frame and brakes.
that came on the scale at 250 kg. the swift incl. frame and brakes
came at 220 kg... in my mini was a 998... and i think that's even
heavyer... so... just for info... :shock:

[speedy]

not a lot done last days.... work got in the way...
but today i did the downpipe and undid the manifold from its stomps.
also the engine is back in with the inlet and it clears nice,so i can take it out again and clean it up before it goes back in.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3240.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3241.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3242.jpg

[speedy]

its to hot to do anything but drink....
but yesterday i started on a sparehead.
and today i ordered some parts.
ordered two master 3/4 wilwood cil.
and a sintermetal clutchplate.
here is the head and how far i got...
got to find out how much i can skim the head. :twisted:

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3206.jpg

[bobjonah]

Your build looks very professional - obviously not your first. The alternator tensioner is quite unique - does it work well? Do you have any photos of your bulkhead modifications?

Bob Jonah

[speedy]

thanks....
its my first and a half build... :lol:
we started on one from a mate of mine... but he lost funding.
so he put a 1275 back in... i try to change his mind again...
and i try to good looks at al the other super build up here and the problems they have.
there are no mods to the bulkhead... i use a mark 1 inletmanifold.
and it clears everywhere with ease... this week it will come out again.
so,i will make some pics of the difference between the mk1 and mk2 inletmanifold. and yes,the tensioner works very well.
and easy to operate when in place.

[speedy]

got the engine out again. and got the gearbox off.
now i just have to wait for the clutchplate and the mastercilinders.
so i can get the brakes sorted and the fuellines. then the engine can go in again. the clutch is to cableoperated,the way like smurfy (phil) made.
for the brakes i will try to make something like kad.. but sheaper..i hope :)

here the differce between a mk 1 and a mk 2
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3254.jpg
this is a mk1

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3255.jpg
here the mk2.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3256.jpg
and here the untouched bulkhead :)

[speedy]

today this came by mail...
i like it..and it fits nice, and the bite feels very good :twisted:

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3277.jpg

[speedy]

and today this came in by mail.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3278.jpg

the ongoing is spectacular, plugging al the holes in the bulkhead takes
a little time . will show the result later.

[bobjonah]

Thanks for the pics of the intake manifolds - that mk1 is very different than the mk2. Are the runners the same length?. Does anybody know where I might get one ( MK 1 ) ? A MK 1 manifold with the throttle on the left hand side would be a dream come true - is that possible?

Bob Jonah

[speedy]

maybe atchi can help you with that...
i believe the cultus has its inlet on the left....
but,this will work just fine i think.

cheers

[miniswift]

Hi,

I found few in Japan for Cultus Gti manifold.
I will be in touch with seller and find out how much he wants for it.
I did have mk1 reverse manifold but I sold that one.
I might be able to get mk2 Cultus Gti one. They will be more like hand made looking type instead of a cast manifold.


Cheers
Atchi

[Hayling mini]

If anyone can get you one Atchi can, even Rocking Horse SH*T is not a problem for him :wink:

Nice build by the way.

Jerry

[speedy]

thanks jerry :)

you are steaming ahead as well...
if time and funding allow it,i have a trackmini in mind.
a midengined one...

[Hayling mini]

Thinking about the next project before you have finished the current one :lol:
Sounds like you are hooked too, be careful I have 4 Minis & you are on the slippery slope.
I fancy a front engined RWD one, not that I am going to do another one after this. But if I did that would be it, just got to keep away from ebay & stay off the alcohol when surfing.

OK OK I cannot be trusted & will probably end up doing another one, just dont tell the wife.

Jerry

[speedy]

i know about your drink/buy problem :lol:
i have three mini's and a opel ascona,that is getting the next g13b.
with the gearbox of a jimny. its a 1.2 now with 60bhp.. but it corners
like nothing else. the van i have is a longterm project.
ooh... and a beetle from a friend is getting a g13b as well...
so much to do and so little time :shock:

[speedy]

hi guys,

today i made a swirlpot and fixed the pot ,pump and fuellines in the car.
need to crack on with the brakebias so i can make the brakelines.
and fit the engine again. got to buy some filters for the fueling.
then that will be finished,exept for wiring...
here you can see what is done.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3288.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3295.jpg

[speedy]

today i got the filters i needed,and put them in.
and i started on the mounting of the mastercilinders.
got a long way .....but.. :oops: made a mistake...
the masters are now where the dizzy must be...
so,back to the drawingboard..

[speedy]

little update in between.
did put the engine back in,and started from there.
didnt need to alter a lot but all and all it took the best of the day.
this is what i come up with... not yet finished,but it looks like it works.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3298.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3299.jpg

comments are welkom of cource.

[speedy]

hi guys,

the brakebias is done,and started on the cable operated clutch.
for now its in the mini to see how it all lines up.
the clutchside of this needs some more work.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3300-1.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3302.jpg

[Marcus Nordblom]

looking good!

Cool with the brake bias, looks tricky 8)

[speedy]

thanks marcus,

coming from you,that means a lot...
your car is awesome. are you still driving it?
hope to drive mine soon...

cheers wytze

[speedy]

well...
the cable operated clutch works.
and all fits the car just fine. just need to check if it will pull the clutch free.
but then i need gears first. so thats the next thing to do.
here is the finished brake/clutch thing...

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3306.jpg
as you can see.. it has been changed a little,the first idea got stuck all the
time. this works very well.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3305.jpg
and here it is from the other side,just need to order the cable for the
balancebar. to set it up from the inside.

[speedy]

made the gearlinkage today,and checked if the clutch worked.
and it does. on the rear of the car i put in the goodrich hoses,and the
camberbrackets. further made up a dummy for the driveshafts.
there is a 20 milimeter difference in length. and past it on to a bloke who
makes them for motorsports. they will be ready in three weeks.
and the price is good..i think. just need to work out the loom,and the cooling.. there is very little room for a rad.

[Welder]

Hey DutchMan!

I have the same prob. Not much space for a rad.
Nice work so far!

I have bought a SPI tank.

Want to look at my shafts tomorrow!

Good luck!

[speedy]

he makes billet one's for 350 euro. and he is very good..
made the spijker driveshafts for the le-man cars.
after playing a bit,i think i can just mount the rad...so that is good.
all so i want to make a righthand tank. not sure how to do that yet.
but hey... i have a couple of normal tanks :D

[speedy]

the weekend i made the brackets and plumbing for the rad.
and started on the brakes. i have a set of 7,5 brakes.
and i have a set of fiesta calipers and tried somethings with it.
but i think i need a set of metroflanges.
also... the cv's for a mini are very expensive here....

will make some pic's of it later,when i got the fan for it.

[speedy]

ooh yeah guy's...
thanks for making me a member....
thought it did'nt make a difference.... but i like it... :-))

[speedy]

well.... it's been a little while.
but i did some things and bought some stuff.
i made the exhaust,and it's just a straight pipe from the down pipe and in to
the rc40 centre single box.... hope to know soon how it sounds.
the gearlinkage is also done. the cooling is allmost done.
did clean up the calipers for now... still want it on ten's.
waiting for my driveshafts,hope to get them end of the week..
and i painted the bulkhead . need to get on with brakepipes,and wiring.

here is some of the progress.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3317.jpg

the bulkhead..

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3322.jpg

the exhaust.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3323.jpg

the new disks and cv's from minisport.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3324.jpg

and the superfins from minisport.

[speedy]

the last week i been busy on the brakepipes.
after that i did put the engine back in and put the gearlinkage and the exhaust back on. started on the wiring. the ignition works and the rearlights.
then i got curious how the mini would sound.
so i did put a gasburner on the inlet and turned the key....
and she runs... and sounds very nice:p

[speedy]

it's going slow at the moment... but this afternoon the driveshafts
came in the mail today:cool: and now they are on the car.
i hope to finish the brakes this weekend. then it will be on all fours...

here a pic of the shafts

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3331.jpg

[speedy]

made a little progress again.
the lights work,the wipers work...incl interval,just need to place the switsh
somewhere... the indicators and hazard work. the pump should work(need to get some fuel in ) hopefully...by the end of the week it will run...and ride..:-)

[speedy]

a little update.
took it out of the shed today. and went for it... not to fancy.
with only a parkingbrake,but wanted to know how it all would be.
the clutch is not okay,there is to little travel in the pedal.
so i will have to rethink that. and further it went all very well.
the sound is very good and pick up is great.:)

[Marcus Nordblom]

good feeling, that first drive;)

get some pics up

[speedy]

scary feeling... had only the parkingbrake:p
but...the clutch is good now,and lighter to.
so now first thing on the list is : tidy up the shed...
then fix the brakepipes , tidy up the wiring... and a mot...:)

here is she is in the sun again , the foglight is gone now...
i did'nt like it...

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb024.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb025.jpg

like it?

[speedy]

well.... its been a while...
but still with it. the loom is all in now even have the interval on the wipers.
the calipers seem to stick... the disk's get bleu... and the rad is to smal.
used a 998 one but it gets really hot when i boot it...
it goes very well... on a test it got up to 215km/h at 7500 rpm.
and she keeps pulling. hope to get a mot soon.

[Purtsi]

215kmh in a Mini ... that's :shock:

[speedy]

it's what the speedo said... need to sheck that with a satnav;)
the ratio of the speedo should be of... it is on 12's at the moment..
and the mk 2 would be on 14... so i think... its off by 15 to 20 km...

[99fusion]

That's still 200 kph in .... a Mini!!! :shock: :shock: :shock:

hope u got good seat covers!!

[speedy]

she feels very good.... but has still a lot of toe in... on the back...

[mininut]

that good, hope you were on a private road :wink:

[speedy]

oh yeah.... a mini own's the road.. :twisted:
and i have a set of german plates...

[99fusion]

lol sneaky...

Out of curiosity speedy, what do you do for regs/cert for the engine change (ie getting it road legal) in the netherlands?

Here i'm stuck with Oldtimer registration (limited usage no night driving 25km radius max or to and from "organised events") or a full german TuV homologation and German registered for min 1 year before importing back. You can drink when your 16 grow 2 'plants' for your own personal use but can't do $hit to your car (except fit an ugly spoiler and bodykits)! How does that make sense?

[Purtsi]

Here i'm stuck with Oldtimer registration (limited usage no night driving 25km radius max or to and from "organised events") or a full german TuV homologation and German registered for min 1 year before importing back.

And I thought that in Finland we have stupid laws when it comes to modified cars :eek: We have one similar though which is for museum registered cars and with them you can drive only 30 days in a year. It's not enough that the car is 30 years old, it also needs to be as it was when it left the factory.

Good luck getting the Mini registered though ;)

[99fusion]

Thats pretty daft too! Just how do they count the number of days though?

Gee thanks, can't wait for the administrative nightmare! :confused: :)

[Purtsi]

Thats pretty daft too! Just how do they count the number of days though?

Gee thanks, can't wait for the administrative nightmare! :confused: :)

I have no idea how but for cars like that and in climate like this, it's unlikely that there will be more than 30 days of sun to enjoy that sort of car lol.

Anyhow, my mini is old enough so I don't need to care about exhaust fumes at mot and can change the engine to 20% more powerful than what's the most powerful one in the same model line (in this case it's Era turbo). I just need to make sure that brakes are as efficient or better than Era's :) Ofcourse there are weight/tire/width/etc things etc but those are easy to pass ;)

[99fusion]

Consider yourself lucky! Basically here performance enhancements are a big nono (you might get away with a bigger exhaust), engine transplants are only possible when matching the original unless approved by the manufacturer or approved representative. Basically your car has to match your certificate of conformity issued with the car to pass the government certified standardised 'you have to go to an official mot center where you queue up for hours during the time off you've had to take with your car get treated like shit and stamped go no go for 50 euros' mot. Period. Unless the car was built before 1968 - those ceritificates didn't exist before then. So if your car between 0-25 years old, your stuffed, 25-40 years old, it can be reg as an oldtimer but doesnt have a real mot (they check once the brakes and steering and that's about it to change the car's status) with limitations, and then you have to get your insurer to accept the new power rating, but if it's over 41, hooray, you can do want you want to it cos there's nothing on paper!!

Unfortunately my Mini was built in 83, has no such cert as it is (still) reg in the UK, and rover has dissapeared, and - like kit cars and buggys, this is very much a grey area - it's up to the guy who checks your car when importing it whether he deems it safe enough (read close as possible to the original thing) to be accepted. Chances are if it looks a bit tweaked 9.999999999 times out of 10 he'll send you packing. And, icing on the cake, seeing as how I have a sentimental attachment to it and I can't really have 2 mini's, it's going to be the mini that gets the swift engine one way or another (have i got my head in a bucket or what!) - besides, hacking a classic mini would be sacrilege!

Sometimes I really wish I was still in the UK for this... girl or car, girl or car ,girl or car..hmmm

[speedy]

official i should take it to the rdw.
thats the dmv overhere. but i will go for a mot first.
on the reg. from the car is no cm3 and kw's... so... i will see what they say,
and go from there.

i know that belgium is no fan for modifying... :protest:

[speedy]

been busy today with cooling...
got a new much better fan. took also arad from a 1275.
the thermostat is 82 celcius... but still it gets very hot when i boot it...
then it blows most of its water... the brakes are sorted.. with the greenstuff
pads were some sticky pads for one the back... i took those off and its
fine now... back on with the cooling tomorrow... the pipes dont get hard,
so its not headgasket. will take out the thermostat and place a ring in stead.
and see what that will bring...

[speedy]

well.... its official.... i'm a dumbass:blowup:
allways i tell everyone to build in a new waterpump...
the cooling is better now... but.... the waterpump is gone..
i could take it out without removing the engine... that's on the upside:oops: allso did sheck the rollerbearing for the timingbelt... thats shot to..
man...i can only say one thing.... :imstupid:

[speedy]

hi guys,

still having trubble with cooling... maybe need to make a headertank or something... the interval on the wipers work really well and i have a red dot
on the roof of the mini...

on the cooling... i'm a little stuck i think... what cooler are others using?
but here are some pics.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3392.jpg

this is how it should cool okay... but it doesnt...

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3393.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb001.jpg
the interval stalk from a bmw e30

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb007.jpg
and the bolts welded in place to hold the switch.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3394.jpg

[speedy]

to sort the cooling trouble i took out the innerwing on the left.
it gives more options for better cooling. also found a companie who
makes customrads in alli. will give them a ring tomorrow.
a alli rad gives a better coolingrate... i hope...

[Purtsi]

ebay is full of cheap (chinese) alloy mini radiators. Why don't you give them a try and let us know how those perform? ;)

[speedy]

i only used ebay once....
its hard to find anything in there....:confused:

[Purtsi]

Try this one (http://motors-parts.shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=aluminum+mini+radiator&_sacat=131090&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_dmpt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&_odkw=alloy+mini+radiator&_osacat=131090) :)

[speedy]

hey... thanks... i did buy one...
it will be at my doorstep for 71 euro... thats peanuts..
and i can try.... the way its now... it gets to hot...


thanks again..

[Hayling mini]

Hi Speedy
can you not mount the rad at the front like this:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa233/jerryw_photos/Endofplay.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa233/jerryw_photos/Frontendfitted.jpg

I have a standard MPI rad & fan in mine.

Jerry

[Purtsi]

hey... thanks... i did buy one...
it will be at my doorstep for 71 euro... thats peanuts..
and i can try.... the way its now... it gets to hot...


thanks again..

Cool =) Which one did you buy? cool nuts or the asiperformance one? :)

[speedy]

thats what i'm going to try next.
i took out the innerwing on the left..
that gives more room ,and i was thinking about a expansiontank...
is yours staying at the right temp?

[Hayling mini]

Mine runs fine with MPI rad & expansion tank:D

[speedy]

thats indeed a very nice option.... the way your rad is mounted!!
and thats a mini cooper front rad? with fan?

btw... thanks for your input....

[Hayling mini]

Just a standard MPI rad & fan, the MPI Minis all had front mounted radiators & they are really good. My Vauxhall 1600 conversion had the same setup & that was fine too. My advice would be to try locating one, I have never really had much success with the alloy aftermarket ones. I spent £600.00 getting a custom rad built for my van & bought a huge fan for it. It does not seem as good as the tiny MPI one:(

[Purtsi]

I got mine 2-core mini rad with 8" fan mounted in similar way (fan on the other side) but I have minor temp issues at the moment. If the alloy rad you're getting is any better then I'll try one too :)

[speedy]

i ordered the one from china for 43 pounds...
but must say.... jerry's option is tempting as well.
maybe i can combine it... the new ally rad on its side with filler blocked off.
and with a expansiontank....

btw...this is for purti... me (the dumbass) cannot work out the quote thing:p

[Hayling mini]

One of these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MINI-MPI-RADIATOR-AND-FAN-COMPLETE_W0QQitemZ280399269748QQcmdZViewItemQQptZU K_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item4149194f 74&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

:D

[speedy]

hi jerry.....

thanks... i think i will order one of those to...
just to be on the safe side..... ;)

[Purtsi]

Jerry: What are the measurements of the MPI rad? If it ain't any bigger than the normal Mini rad then I might be able to squeeze it in.. depending on how I could route the hoses.

[speedy]

i found one... the matrix is 300x215x43 mm .
i have room for 350x300x50... does this help?

[Purtsi]

hmm.. this is the size of the alloy rad: Core Size : 285W * 270H * 40T and I believe that's the same as the original and it's a bit smallar than the MPI one. I might run into trouble trying to fit one but to be sure I'd need to have one in hand to test it. I just hope that the alloy one that you bought would provide more cooling ;)

[speedy]

i'm gonna try both.... the mpi and the alli one... just need to know:p

[speedy]

hi guy's,

while waiting for a rad... i started on a spare gearbox. i have 2 mk1 boxes
and a extra mk 2 box with a 3.52 fd. i have split a mk1 and the mk2 box
and changed the x-pin dif to the 3.52 fd all i need now are some new bearings , because the rightside bearing on the dif is different .
then the box can go back together. and i think... this winter in the mini.
the rad came by mail today,so i can crack on with that to...
its really a nice rad... it fits very well. need to make some hoses and get a
expansiontank...

[Purtsi]

We need pictures of that alloy rad!! ;)

[speedy]

the alloy one did not come in yet...
the used mpi rad did.... and that looks very good...
just have to make some fittings and pipe work.
but...at the moment there is a lot to do on my dayjob...

[miniswift]

Hi,

You better check pinion gears are same between mk1 and mk2 gearboxes.
Final gear ratios are worked out by dividing big gear teeth by small gear teeth number. So if you mix and much input shaft from one set top the other, it won't work. I hope you are lucky and get it right.

Good luck!

Cheers
Atchi

[speedy]

hi atchi,

i'm just replacing the mark 1 diff into the mark 2 box.
everything is the same,even the innerpots you can keep..
the difference is one bearing. the two on a mk1 diff are the same
and on a mk2 box there is one smaller then the other.
i will use the complete fd from the mk2 box.

but cheers for your concern:)

[miniswift]

Hi,

Are you just fitting mk1 diff into mk2(88-96) gearbox?
If you are mk1 diff is 4.6mm narrower than mk2 diff.
You need to make 3.6mm and 1mm spacers to fit.

I thought input shafts are different from mk1 to mk2 gearboxes.

Let me know if you need more info as I have mk1 service manual as well as mk2.

Cheers
Atchi

[Purtsi]

This sounds interesting. Direct swap between mk1 and mk2... as Atchi said, the lenght will cause some problems. That said, it's not impossible as I have seen that done. Pls let us know how you have overcome the problems :)

[speedy]

i will have to make spacers.... i think...
and yes... i have tried the innerpots in the mk1 diff... and fitted like a glove.
i also got this in by mail today.....:cool:

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3417.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3418.jpg

its the china 43,00 pounds rad... and it looks really well...
like i said before... i will try both the rads...

the matrix of the china one has 25 rowes and is a twocore,so it has 50 tubes.
the orginal 2core has smaller and 40 rowes. in both cases i will try the rads at the front. just need to make some tubing.

[Purtsi]

That rad really looks good 8-) I just might need to buy myself one for the next summer =) Just let us know how those rads perform.

[speedy]

will do.. wish i had some time yesterday to go to the scrappy.
need to get a expansiontank.

[speedy]

hi guys,

the china one ,mounted in the sidemounted position does cool a little better
but it still had no thermostat... and got still at nomal temp.
in the rain.... but .....i had great time in the rain... :lol:

only i treid to take it out to hot... so burned my face and body a little:rolleyes:

cant get the china one in the front... so started on the mpi one...
made some mounts and some tubes for the hoses to conect to...
more on this soon.... oh yeah... the expantiontank i got... is to big:confused:... but will find something on that...

[miniswift]

Hi,

I got same one from China.
My friend bought 2 to make postage cheaper and I bought one off him.
It looks very good and I will be mounting this like MPi myself.Can you tell me why you think you can't fit it that way?

I will be using either Gti expansion tank or others I got.
I think I got 3 different kinds.

Cheers
Atchi

[Marcus Nordblom]

That rad looks excellent, is it exact dimensions of a std one?

My rad is fastened to the slam panel/frame and usies a tiny 8" clova tow fan at the back…
– where do you have your space probs?

[speedy]

hi guys,

the way i made my gearbox mount , i cant fit the rad not deep enough.
so i have bought both types... the mpi rad fits really nice . i hope it cools
very well... i'm home now... so i will get cracking....;)

[speedy]

marcus,

the rad fits in the original position. it has 10 more coolingpipes.
and the coolingpipes are bigger... i think only when its side mounted
thats it needs to a constant airflow..

[speedy]

hi guys,

if i go bold ...its the minis fault.... the damn thing still doesnt cool
enough..... there must be something i mis.... but what....:confused:

[Purtsi]

Is the fan working properly?

[speedy]

yes.. the fan is on the back of the rad and sucks the air .
i will take out the thermostat.. and see what happens...

also took out the plugs... they look great... so no problem with the
headgasket.

[Marcus Nordblom]

ignition to advanced? Air block? Waterpump?

I have a modded 82 deg thermostat going in mine, need some filing to drop in though!

[Purtsi]

btw. how do I know if there's an airblock in the cooling system? And how to get it sorted?

[Marcus Nordblom]

bets me, i always run the car without the cap for a while…lock for air traps bunged hoses etc,

[Purtsi]

Sounds simple to me. Sorry for going bit OT Speedy, but I think there might be some air in my cooling system as the air temp reading in megatune jumps up'n'down after the thermostat opens up at 82C. That trick might work. Or do you got any other ideas?

[Marcus Nordblom]

where did you find your 82 stat?

[Purtsi]

From a local speedshop that sells spare parts to all sort of cars :)

[Marcus Nordblom]

did it drop right in? If so wich car?

[Purtsi]

My dad went and bought it but if I remember right it's for mk2 swift or it might be a generic one which just have the same shape as the swift thermostat.

[Spiyda]

Sounds simple to me. Sorry for going bit OT Speedy, but I think there might be some air in my cooling system as the air temp reading in megatune jumps up'n'down after the thermostat opens up at 82C. That trick might work. Or do you got any other ideas?


We had cooling problems until I noticed two things..
you've probably checked these already tho..

we had the outlet casting on the thermostat housing upside down ..
it should be so that the pipe oulet is nearest the top..

there is a very small pipe that links the housing to the return pipe..
that definitely needs to be on ...

[Purtsi]

You can put the casting up side down? hmm.. I might not follow you here.. (can't understand anything without the pictures lol :D)

It just occurred to me, that I should change the temp sensor to the other place lower in the block where the cooling liquid doesn't "move" as much as it does near the thermostat. That water movement might cause the temp sensor to go up'n'down.

[DVO]

To get an air bubble out of the system it sometimes works to put up the front of the car as high as possible. The highest point is then for the sure filler of the radiator. The highest point in your system should be the filling opening of your radiator anyway otherwise air in the system will be always an issue.

Dennis

[Purtsi]

To get an air bubble out of the system it sometimes works to put up the front of the car as high as possible. The highest point is then for the sure filler of the radiator. The highest point in your system should be the filling opening of your radiator anyway otherwise air in the system will be always an issue.

Dennis

That sounds like a good idea to test. thanks.

[speedy]

hi guys,

the thermostat was a 82 c one from a mk2...
the last one i had in was a 88 c . and its time to try it without it...
un airlock could be.... i have checked the pics from jerry...
he has a outlet on his top hose that goes to the expansiontank.
he also has a vey nice expansiontank... would like to have one of those..
hope to get in home soon tomorrow.... then i can get on with it...


by the way... thanks for your replys... it nice to know i'm not the only one with problems. hope i will sort this soon... i will write what i have done

cheers guys.....

[speedy]

hi guys,

did a testdrive after i took out the thermostat.
made sure the level in the expansiontank was higher then the tophose.
and let it run for a while. the fanswitsh on 60 c and wait. it got to 82 c.
then i put the cap on,and closed the fillercap.

no rain and steady speed for about 4km. then round the roundabout.
and foot down on the way back... where possible... she stays on a steady
temprature.... so i think it needs much more coolant... or a much colder thermostat. but whitout it ,it runs fine... now time to go to the mot.:D

[Purtsi]

Sounds like that the thermostat is blocking the coolant flow more than usual or something?

Good luck with the mot :)

[speedy]

hi ,

must say that the opening is a lot bigger without the thermostat...
when i removed it i did put it in water and heated it. it opens fully at 88 c.
so thats not the problem.. now while driving,and she is cold. it takes a little longer to heat up... but thats no biggy... it has to do whit flow i think..

have you been out with yours?? if so.... how does she go??;)

[Spiyda]

We had cooling problems until I noticed two things..
you've probably checked these already tho..

we had the outlet casting on the thermostat housing upside down ..
it should be so that the pipe oulet is nearest the top..

there is a very small pipe that links the housing to the return pipe..
that definitely needs to be on ...

Petes is in bits so I can't take a pic... but in this one the casting is upside down..... the bit where the main pipe fits onto the thermostat housing

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s48/Iamcabaged/wiring.jpg

[Purtsi]

I have driven today only about 5km and as the temperature outside is about 5C the engine doesn't even properly warm up. But during that time it worked great as I changed the temp sensor location :) Tomorrow I'll do a longer test run to see how it works.

[Spiyda]

I have driven today only about 5km and as the temperature outside is about 5C the engine doesn't even properly warm up. But during that time it worked great as I changed the temp sensor location :) Tomorrow I'll do a longer test run to see how it works.

you could put the thermostat back in, but put a 1/4" rubber bypass pipe on so that you can put a clamp on to stop bypass, but take the clamp off to bypass the thermostat.. that way you can play without having to drive back overheating

[speedy]

on a mk1 there is a switsh for the fan. it needs to face front.
then its the rightway on . there are even some markings on...
the bypass really needs to be there . in a swift the heatermatrix is the
bypass. there is no shutter on the hose. i used two t piece connectors
to make sure there is a bypass, on the bypass i have put the expansiontank.

[Marcus Nordblom]

I have an extra rad that i looking into fitting, unsure how to hook it up:confused: inline with the matrix, before? after?

[breadboxracing]

Hi spiyda
what is type of intake/fuel inj is in that pic
paul

[Purtsi]

I'd say it's gsxr itb with standard fuel rail. Am I right? :)

[speedy]

marcus,
you could place it in front of the other...
bore the holes in the front of the second rad.. and solder the first in front
of the second.... maybe it woold work??

[Spiyda]

Hi spiyda
what is type of intake/fuel inj is in that pic
paul

yep

GSXR throttle bodies on my home made cast manifold..(probably going to sell it soon)
standard fuel rail
standard injectors in the head..


moved on from there now with the supercharger..
new cast manifolds and plenum with single throttle body
bigger injectors (still in the head) but with the option of injectors in the plenum inlet for water/nos maybe one day
stripped out fuel rail with seperate fuel regulator

[Spiyda]

I have an extra rad that i looking into fitting, unsure how to hook it up:confused: inline with the matrix, before? after?

I keep mulling this around in my head too..

we don't have the luxury of much space in the round nose so not sure whether to mount two old style mini radiators at the side or to put a bigger one in the boot.. even considered one mini radiator each side where the rear pockets used to be!
putting one in the boot means the intercooler can go where the radiator used to be.. and the oil cooler at the front.


in series there will be more resistance to the flow of water
if in series.. in the top of the one furthest from the cold air and out the bottom of the one nearest the cold air..
in parallel how can you be sure the water will flow equally through both..?


either way there must be some additional cooling, and the water volume will be increased, which must also be good for cooling..

Someone must know the answer...

[speedy]

two rads in the side pockets..... under a angle... that would be cool....:cool:
and that would cool very well i think... would use a electric pump,i think..
and place them paralel... and two thermostats...

further i think it has to do with the amount of coolant there is to transfer the heat to. jerry uses a large expantiontank on his swift fwd conversion.
mine is not so big,but without the thermostat it stays very good...
made a testrun lastnight that lasted more then two hours... and it went very
good i must say.... but its not so hot anymore... i think if i had room for the china ali rad... i would still have the thermostat in.... if used side mounted
it would benefit from a couwl? or a constant fan... like a Aseries...

or just use a clubby front.... btw... are there more people that has mixed
feelings with that?? a clubbyfront... my gut says that a clubby must be over the top... :twisted:

[speedy]

hey there breadbox... i bought a inletmanifold on ebay..
his name is motorman and lives in greese.
he sell them for 115,00 pounds... the look really nice,and are about 3 inches
long... does that help?
here is a pic
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/Afb005.jpg
i can make better ones if you would like..:oops:

[speedy]

btw.... i got a apointment for a mot tomorrow.

[Purtsi]

Is that inlet manifold for webers or such?

[speedy]

yeah it is... are you up here just before work to??
i sold the china rad ... a guy here made a offer i coudnt refuse... 125,00euro!
hahahaaha... ;)

[Purtsi]

Yeah, before, during and after work :D

wow. you got a nice deal from that rad =) So you're planning on installing webers huh?

[miniswift]

Hi,

For you to fit that manifold with carbs, you will have to modify bulkhead/firewall. Also, you will need either mk1 Gti dizzy or MS's spark only module. I have been told to buy other make not Webers. I heard that Webers haven't updated design since '80 but the other one has.

Good luck with MOT.

Cheers
Atchi

[breadboxracing]

Hi
i can buy a manifold from suzuki racing development in florida for $295.00 us but it is to long the one the thread webbers on a suzuki i made out of a one inch thick piece of alloy and it works very nice with great power .the carb came from srd and were jetted right ont the money but the point of this reply is we used an msd electronic timing controler with a 6al control box and coil with the 1989 to1994 electronic dist ( is that what you guys call a mk2) and was very easy to install and lots of spark voltage
paul

[Marcus Nordblom]

thanks chaps, i have an aeros rad with 19mm in/out it fits in front pancake style on the mini one, i guess i have to go inline with the matrix because of water hose sizes?

another way i think of is to mount an oilcooler at the sump and run it inline with the matrix, but need oil cooler with the rotrex…

[speedy]

was thinking of using the manifold on my missus's car... its a opel ascona.
were i want to put a gti swift in aswell... with a jimny gearbox.
its a very good motor... and its very light.

marcus,
cant you use a heatermatrix in the bypass hose ? its small and fits allmost everywhere... (why didnt i think of this before?). and a oilcooler is allways good... but would use a thermostat with it and i think a 4 row 15cm would be enough. and you could mount that in the wing.

[Hayling mini]

MOT?

Is it on the road now;-)

[speedy]

its gets tested tomorrow.
the cooling is much better now... but without the thermostat...
i let you guys know how it went...

[Marcus Nordblom]

marcus,
cant you use a heatermatrix in the bypass hose ? its small and fits allmost everywhere... (why didnt i think of this before?). and a oilcooler is allways good... but would use a thermostat with it and i think a 4 row 15cm would be enough. and you could mount that in the wing.

thought about it but got myself a scooter rad instead, about 20x20 cm (8"x8" imp.mea.)
also bought 2 oilcoolers, one small and one even smaller!


good luck with the MOT!

(They are about to privatise the Swedish steel rinse MOT, i can almost see my mini sail through with the aid of some fikabread and a brown envelope:cool:)

[speedy]

hi guys,

it failed... i bought the as a unfinished project.
the guy how sold it sayed he renewed the lot...
but there is the leftrearbrakecilinder... thats stuc... so thats no good..
and the leftfrontwheelbearing is nackerd... and the chassisnumber needs
a little paint out of the way.... so i got some work to do....
he loved the conversion..... and sayed i did good job... so no problems there

[Purtsi]

Soo.. it doesn't seem like you got loads of stuff to do before you can go and try again. At least now you know what is still missing before you can pass the mot :)

[speedy]

yeah... i allways do it like that...:rolleyes:
if i look for trouble... or he does it.... its less then what i would find...;)
i ordered the parts... hope to get them soon...

[speedy]

hi guys,

the parts are in,and all i need now is a left headlight. its strange...
but for some reason there is no sharp line in the headlight..
and its not the bulb... so hope to get one or a set tomorrow..
and i need to make the chassisnumber better readable... so pick out some
paint.. then...i hope monday a retest....

[speedy]

hi guys,

just came back from the mot station,and she passed:D
so she is legal now... for the winter i want to put a longer fd in...
butt that will be with mixed feelings..... its so good the way its geared now.
on the other hand...all she wants now is for you to put your foot down...
and its so hard not to comply....:rolleyes:

[Spiyda]

hi guys,

just came back from the mot station,and she passed:D
so she is legal now... for the winter i want to put a longer fd in...
butt that will be with mixed feelings..... its so good the way its geared now.
on the other hand...all she wants now is for you to put your foot down...
and its so hard not to comply....:rolleyes:

Congrats.... take it steady for a while til any bugs show !

[Purtsi]

Good work! :)

[speedy]

the only bug i have so far is the exhaust... think i need to hang it from more places... it resonates very much on cruisespeed... so i just drive it faster..
thats not really good for my licence... :rolleyes: tonight i start with a centreconsole.. it needs a radio.... or else the kids sing all the way...;)

[99fusion]

Congrats! :D

[speedy]

thanks... you guys...

well... today we went for a spin and a walk in the woods...
the walk went very well, the spin a little less...
when your cruising... its not a fun car... it makes your ears bleed...:confused:
so... ordered a new exhaust with two cilencers (yes,i'm a sissy)
and a insulationpackage from minisport.

the second problem is.. that there are coming fumes in the car...
when me and the family went for the drive.... and i have no idea where..
the complete bulkhead is closed.

well... back in the shed... and wait for parts...

[Purtsi]

You must have some sort of leakage somewhere as I've found swift engine to be a lot less noisier than my old a-series. Regarding the exhaust fumes, have you checked all the connection points in the exhaust pipe and manifold? I had problems getting it airtight at first as it leaked from every point before I put some exhaust sealant between.

[speedy]

no.... used new gaskets and the exhaust is not leaking... only at the end..
maybe the body is missing a few grommets in the bottem....
butt.... if so... i will find them...

[DVO]

How far is your exhaust sticking out at the back? When it is still partly under the car it is possible that because of turbulence exhaust fumes are sucked into the car. I have the same problem with my Estate when I drive with the window open. Solution is to lengthen the last part of the exhaust or refit it.

Dennis

[Marcus Nordblom]

could also be a dodgy bootlid seal, had this issue with my mk1:o

[speedy]

hi guys,

thanks for the input ... the exhaust is about 5mm under the bumper..
and the seal is very good... on the first impession at least...

but did order a new exhaust... so will see what will happe if it sticks out
a little more....

by the way.... good to see another dutch guy over here...
what are you building? or just planning at the moment?


cheers,

[DVO]

We are going to convert a flipfronted 1275Gt into a Swift Gti Turbo engined car. We already have all the donorparts and built ourselves a jig to start building our subframe. Getting some ideas now how things should be put together and will shortly start building.

I am doing this with a friend. My car will be first and later we will do his car too, also turbo.

Dennis

[speedy]

in a clubby there is more room for a turbo,and a good cooler...
are you having driveshafts made,or are you sleeving them?

take time for your jig... so it will be straight.
place the frame and engine with all the bits on in the car before you make the mounts.

and here you can get all the help you need....

cheers

[DVO]

I am going for sleeved driveshafts, because for now it is the cheaper option and according to some specialist on the matter can handle the hp.

The jig is straight...I hope. The tiebars in the right position is the most important, when you have that right the rest is easy.

I have copied all the pictures of Smurfy and also got some ideas from your frame so it will be a combination in the end.

One question I already have: What thickness you used for the tubing? Still a bit hesitating between round or square.

Dennis

[speedy]

i have used 30x30x3mm and 25x25x3mm. i also copied from several frames.
the frame is lighter then the original frame.
thats 26 kg and my frame is 19kg . and its the second frame i built
the first is for frankm. but he is still in school.
and the cash is not in a nice steady flow,so thats in a slow pace...

are you going on 12's or 10's? mine is now on 12's... and with the gti box...
want to change it for a 1.3 gl box... has a longer fd.
now it hits the 8.000 rpm at 205kmph... but i want it on 10's
i have my shafts made from billetsteel... they are to close to my feet for my liking... the man who made them makes them for all sorts of motorsport
he even made the shafts for the spijker le man cars.

[Purtsi]

Wanna tell me how much those billet drive shafts cost? ;)

[DVO]

I am going for 10". I will use the Ford conversion, either the Fiesta or the Sierra/Escort one. I hope the Sierra/Escort version will fit because I can then use vented discs.

Mine will be a street/circuitracer so a short fd wont be really a problem. I have two other Mini's for road use.

Funny, the rebuilt frames look heavier than they really are. I was thinking about 2.5 thick tubing because of the weight.

Dennis

[speedy]

Wanna tell me how much those billet drive shafts cost? ;)

ha ha... this works... :imstupid: yes ,i would... i payed 350 for the set.
and they work great.. there hardened as wel.

[Purtsi]

Thanks, those do sound tempting to have :) I might have to change the near side shaft as it might be bit bend. Will need to check it during the winter to be sure about it.

[speedy]

I am going for 10". I will use the Ford conversion, either the Fiesta or the Sierra/Escort one. I hope the Sierra/Escort version will fit because I can then use vented discs.

Mine will be a street/circuitracer so a short fd wont be really a problem. I have two other Mini's for road use.

Funny, the rebuilt frames look heavier than they really are. I was thinking about 2.5 thick tubing because of the weight.

Dennis the wait isnt a issue.. the standard one is in some places
3 layers thick... i wanted mine to be as stiff and ridgid as possible...
or else it wouldnt drive as nice as it does now...
yesterday i ordered a set of mk1 fiesta calipers on ebay.
and plan to turn down the surestop disks from minisport . then the brakes will
be ready for 10's the fd is 4.10 to 1 on 10's you wouldnt need 1 and 2..
not even at the start..

[miniswift]

Hi,

If you have 4.1 diff with 10", you will have very fast acceleration.
Don't forget, mk2 cars are like 800+kg and Minis are 700+ish Kg.
0-400m racers uses 13" for their Swift Gtis with Turbo charger.
DMW Dave uses 13", Garndi(Andy) uses 13" for his Justy AWD monster for better accelerations.

You will be bleeding blood when you drive 70mph(120Kmp/h)!

Anyway, good luck.

Cheers
Atchi

[speedy]

hi atshi,

yes.... the thing is.. i'm going to try to get the X-pin diff diff in the
mk2 casing.... but that may take a while..
so , i'm searching for a normal 1.3 box for now.. i know of one...
he want 75 euros for it.... but now i'm thinking.... what is the fd on
a 1,6 swift???? do you know?

i found the fd from a 1.6. its 3.91 and in 5 its 0.77 so.... it might be a nice box for
a road/track car...

cheers

[miniswift]

Hi,

What box is that?
Is it from 4WD 1.6 Gti saloon?

Fitting mk1 diff into mk2 is easy enough as long as you are not using speedo from the Swift setup. I think it was 1mm and 3.4mm spacers to be fitted.
I got a drawing somewhere if you needed.

Also, if you are going to charged engine. You want a stronger gearbox.
I know my friend Andy, got 1 set made up for Group A spec from Hungary for 900 euro for input shaft with 1-3 gears. I'm not sure how much for rest.
Andy has mk2 Gti rally car and t is kicking out 150+ from 76mm bore G13B.

Cheers
Atchi

[speedy]

its the box from a normal 1.6 just googled it and found a german site.
in my mind a 1.3 has fifth gear in .87 and a fd in 3.51
the 1.6 is 3.91 and fifth is .77..... must do the math... but not done it yet..

and this one is staying n.a. the next... i dont know yet...
so many ideas.... and so little time:rolleyes:

[speedy]

hi guys,

think i know why the inside of the car starts to stink...
the intake in the wing is now open to all the smell's in the enginebay.
so i want to go for a clubbyfrontend.... found new one's on ebay for
130 pounds..... thats not to bad i think....
but,,,, POSTAGE IS 145 POUNDS!!!! still.... it would be cheaper then
overhere:confused: also found a box with a 3,51 fd.
and i need to bulkup the heelboard... i felt it flexing when i was out with
frank in mine,with him behind the wheel.... so i will be taking it apart soon.
allso want to try the calverst way in subframe mountings. solid on top,
and poly inbetween and original at the heelboard. anyone tried this before?

cheers,

[MattG]

talk to absmotorsport ( body stylist on here ) , he will ship , and if you buy 2 front ends , it should be the same postage , so you can then flog one over there and make some money back ? or share postage ?

Matt

[speedy]

hi matt,

i think it is abs on ebay... its even the same photo.. trying to convince
frank he needs one to:rolleyes: and if not... ill get two..
and sell one on. you know they sell them overhere for 475 euro???

cheers,
wytze

[MattG]

hi matt,

i think it is abs on ebay... its even the same photo.. trying to convince
frank he needs one to:rolleyes: and if not... ill get two..
and sell one on. you know they sell them overhere for 475 euro???

cheers,
wytze

whos selling over there for 475 euros ? got any links ?

Matt

[speedy]

if you look on the site from coopernet.nl

http://www.coopernet.nl/plaatwerk-polyester-58.list.html



here you can see a 2 piece frontend for a roundnose

its in euro's . us dutchmen get f**ked :protest:

[Body Stylist]

475 euro!!!!

blimey, and its not even one of mine ;-)

In general we are very competative and we manufacture around 3 - 4 fronts a day, every day!!

There are a lot of companies in europe sell our panels, but with the ebay prices or the forum discounts and if you can combine shipping its worth buying direct :)

[speedy]

yes i know.....
and here they all so say that postage makes it expensive...

i'm scraping... so will order soon... i just want it....:p

[Body Stylist]

I can deliver 5 Fronts for £220.00 plus vat

if you know 4 other people, that really splits the cost :)

[DVO]

My car has a polyester Clubman front, but that one I bought years ago second hand in Holland for 125 euro. On the Dutch Miniforum they have somebody who is gathering again customers for a flipfront deal (also doors, bootlids etc). They already did it once and got 5 sent in one go what makes transport much more affordable.

Dennis

[Body Stylist]

yes, we often arrange group buys for export to one address, it makes a lot of sence, we even get people just buying 2 fronts, 2 kits, 5 sets of arches a couple of bonnets and a couple of boots and then selling them on once they get them, especially in america, canada, australia, newzealand and japan, the shipping to those countries is very exspensive, but with a bulked up order it makes each item a lot better.

[speedy]

I can deliver 5 Fronts for £220.00 plus vat

if you know 4 other people, that really splits the cost :)

5 for 220? in clubby 2 piece?

[MattG]

thats 220 for delivery , plus the cost of the 5 fronts

[speedy]

hahahaha:rolleyes: i thought i was going nuts....

[speedy]

hi guys,

well... ordered two clubbyfrontends. one for frank's mini.
and one for mine... my new exhaust came in and is now under the car...
what a difference that makes.....its a little more sleeper now...

owh... and last weekend i felt slow in my mini....
i was behind a 130 bmw i think..... damn.... that is quick...
frank pulled himself in the seat when taking a fast bent at 170 to keep up

just need to pick up the gearbox and take the mini apart again....
well.... its all part of the fun:beer:

cheers

[speedy]

hi guys

look what a big lorry left on my doorstep....8)

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3471.jpg

and from the front

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3472.jpg

and picked up a box with a 3.51 FD

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3473.jpg

i can start again.... ooh... and tony... thanks,it looks great and very well
packed.... :D

cheers

[Body Stylist]

Excellent, pleased you got them :)

[Welder]

Watch out mate,.. there is "No Oil" in that box...!

Fronts look great!

Wiching I bought one!

[speedy]

hey jasper.... talk to the man above.:cool:

did you look for a donor body yet?

[DVO]

Luckily your car is blue otherwise you would become my twin ;) Clubman front means a lot more space for coolers etc.

Dennis

[speedy]

hey dennis,

yeah.... a lot more space.... i did lay the bonnet on the mini....
man ... what a space that would give....

i'm planing to paint it the same color( the frontend that is...):rolleyes:
you like it so white?;)

did you start building yet??

[DVO]

Today started with grinding off the front of the subframe. Coming days will reinforce the part that is left and then start extending it again to the front with new tubing.

Ordered motormounts and got the back one from the junkyard (from an old Golf). Only have to search now for two long 1/2 inch bolts for the the bottom arms. Won't be easy here in Holland.

Dennis

[speedy]

dennis,

make your bottemarmpins like this.... (i picked it up here on the forum to)

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3219.jpg

and on the frame like this...

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3215.jpg

it works really well.

ooh.... and start a builddiary... with pics.... it will give you feedback.
cheers

[Welder]

Hi
Why is that hole that big?
The breast, what we call "borst van de bout", is not that big... or have I mentioned it wrong...

[speedy]

thats the standard bottemarmpinhole from a mini . and a shortened bottemarmpinbolt.... Man...what a scabbleword:p

that way you use the same pressure to pull the bottemarm against the subframe. i saw it in the vauxhall section,i think....

[Welder]

Aaaaaahhh. now I see...
Good idea,.. but I think I threw that part away! haha
@Dennis, I know where to find bolds you need...

[DVO]

What Speedy says is in fact correct that you can put pressure on the rubbers of the lower arm in the way he solved it. But you can only can squeeze them upto a certain point because the rubbers have metal sleeves in it.

With a bit of encouragement you can also do it with a normal bolt like Smurfy did.

Dennis

PS Funny that three Dutch have to communicate in English with eachother here ;)

[speedy]

yeah... but we dont have to.... but if we dont....
most guys dont know what we are on about...and they cant help us
anymore.... :rolleyes:

maare........ jongens... aan het werk.... anders komen jullie mini's nooit af;)

[speedy]

today i planned to make the heater work....
took of the heater and drilled two holes in the bulkhead...
and the drill shaved the breakline....and it leaks....and its the rearline:blowup:

but on the other hand.... now the longer fd can go in aswell...:rolleyes:

[DVO]

Probably some :verymad::verymad::verymad: ;)

Dennis

[speedy]

yep... and only some....:rolleyes:

but then i thought.... then the whole engine can come out.
and change the box.... now the inlet is out and the rad is out.
its good that it happend,the rear enginemount is cracked:confused:
must have made it not so stong as i wanted it to be....
will make some pics later ,when the engine is out...
that will happen tomorrow.

cheers

[speedy]

and the engine is back in again...
ordered a tool to propperly fit the bands around the cv boots.
they keep coming off.... will get some pics up tomorrow.
fixed the rearmount. welded a steel strip around it.

cheers

[speedy]

and she is running again. the testrun did take place in the snow.
its feels a bit more sivil.... not so much bite on the throttle. but still goes when you put your foot down.

only the crankshaftpully died,it fell apart... now she in the workshop again to get a few rattles sorted and a centreconsole made for a radio.

[DVO]

See that you are just as busy as I am, only that your car is running and mine only came further from running today :rolleyes: What happened exactly with that pulley?

Dennis

[speedy]

it just fell apart.... the rubber in between got hard i think.
changed it with a mk1 item, thats a pressed steel one and lighter.
so now its fine. did you not just weld a old socket on those breakbolts?
that work very well i must say. set your alarm at 5 tomorrow...
and work your ass off and you can drive by the end of the day:rolleyes:

[DVO]

Now you say it...could have welded a nut on, but it is off anyway now. Get up at 5 on a sunday....no way. Have to get my mother in law from the airport first anyway, will be midday before I can start probably.

Dennis

[speedy]

just ask ,,, old man...:rolleyes:
i should not tease you like that....
you allso have to pick up your mother in law... sorry...

your going to work on the mini tomorrow?
i hope it all fits first time.

[Mini Vlatko]

How's you build?
Have you fitted Clubby front yet?
I guess you'll have lot less hassle then me since your is from ABS...;)

[speedy]

no, not yet, its my daily car at the mo.
the abs has the a-panels on it allready. but no seam...
so thinking about on how to secure the seamstrip,but have un idea.
been busy with making some tools for setting toe ,and a stand for a
urnster to weigh the cornerweights. will post some pics when its done.
looking at your build i really want to get the clubby frontend on it...
it fits more to what the car is.... a mad beast... man ...it goes...
and with a heavy foot it still makes 15km to the litre....;)
the suzuki just keeps pulling... at 150km in third i'm 7500 rpm and still
she goes on..... :twisted:

[Mini Vlatko]

looking at your build i really want to get the clubby frontend on it...
it fits more to what the car is.... a mad beast... man ...it goes...
and with a heavy foot it still makes 15km to the litre....;)
the suzuki just keeps pulling... at 150km in third i'm 7500 rpm and still
she goes on..... :twisted:

I know exactly what you mean ;)
I just can't wait to get a ride in my hope to be beast :twisted:
Anyway...keep us posted...pics are always welcome!

[speedy]

yours will have at least fifty more hp then mine...
so it should go like stink.... keep that in mind...
its worth all the sh*t you get... once on the road...

[speedy]

i made some things last week,and did some things on the geometry.
bought a gunson camberbubble and made a trackbracket and made a support for the digtal urnster i have . on the front my camber was 3 neg. so i made that 1,5 neg. there was a little toe out at the front and made that zero .

this is the support i made.
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3592.jpg

the numbers dont make sence at the moment.... need to brush up my wiskunde?? cant write the word for that... sorry.. it now gives me these numbers. l.f.= 240kg r.f. =280kg r.r.= 185kg and l.r.= 209kg.
so there must be something off... will see tomorrow..

[Spiyda]

i made some things last week,and did some things on the geometry.
bought a gunson camberbubble and made a trackbracket and made a support for the digtal urnster i have . on the front my camber was 3 neg. so i made that 1,5 neg. there was a little toe out at the front and made that zero .


Are you OK checking the Castor angles ? or would a sketch of how I did mine help ?

[speedy]

it can be done with the gunson camberbubble... setting it zero on 20 deg.
and turning it 40deg. in the other direction.
thats what the paper said . that came with the bubble. correct??;)
but a sketch is always helpful... imo.

[Spiyda]

it can be done with the gunson camberbubble... setting it zero on 20 deg.
and turning it 40deg. in the other direction.
thats what the paper said . that came with the bubble. correct??;)
but a sketch is always helpful... imo.

I've never used a camberbubble, I'm sure it's fine...
but I usually make as many jigs and stuff as possible...

the way I do it is bend a strip of steel into a U shape, with holes near the ends of the legs that fit on the exposed threads of the balljoints.

Each leg should be tha same length

It should be bent just a bit extra so that it is springy so that it stays on...

Then I use a laser level aimed at a board in front of the car , or a spirit level and a protractor to read off the angle. (if the mini has the front still on, usually just taped onto the bracket, but if it's a removable front you can just rest it on top of the bracket.)

I take the readings after setting the tracking, and with the wheels dead straight ahead..

I think it is even more accurate doing it this way that the machines in the garages..

If you use a laser level and a board in front of the car, you can actually plot the changes in all the angles as you turn the steering.. to confirm that both sides are behaving exactly the same.. you need to put a packer between the disc and the bracket and tape it in place to keep it in position relative to the wheel line, buts its easier than it sounds

sorry about he poor quality of my sketch !

[speedy]

after reading and seeing the sketch it makes sense...
and looks really easy, tomorrow i will try both of them. so i can see if the gunson thing works for caster.
thanks for sharing your way. how is your sons car coming along?
almost running again?

[Spiyda]

np... how is your sons car coming along?
almost running again?

Petes is coming along slowly... will take some more pics in a week or two..
fitted the trigger wheel to the latest crankshaft pulley today...
will be spraying the inside in the next few days..

[speedy]

when you start spraying ,it start to look like a car again... and the motivaition gets higher... so thats good...

[Spiyda]

Yep, hopefully we will gain a bit of momentum when the first paint goes on...
It's been a bigger job than I thought to fit the roll cage in the way I wanted it...

by the way...

when you are setting the corner weights, remember to put something the same weight as the driver, in the driver's seat... !

[speedy]

then i need to get a cow or a horse in there... :rolleyes:
not having a job isnt good for my waistline.... ;)

[speedy]

well... the right wheelbearing did die also...
so this morning i took it apart,new bearing in and a 7,5 inch brake setup.
set the frontend on some woodblocks. and altered caster on the leftside.
the rightside is allready 3 deg. and the left is now to...
the gunson thing works well and really easy...
will see how the brakes will hold....

here are some pics from the gunson thing.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3598.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/zucht/CIMG3600.jpg

[DVO]

It aint a SUUUZUUUUUKIIIIIIII, but a Miiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii with a SUUUZUUUUUKIIIIIIII engine :rolleyes:

Dennis

[Mini Vlatko]

set the frontend on some woodblocks. and altered caster on the leftside.
the rightside is allready 3 deg. and the left is now to...
the gunson thing works well and really easy...
will see how the brakes will hold....

I was wandering...is it same angle of the wheel/hub when you lower it on a wooden block without any load and when you lower the car on its wheels and drive it...you know what I mean?

[speedy]

if the car is at the same rideheight it okay. the blocks support the
same as the wheels would do, the gunson thing works good as long
the car is rideheight.

[Mini Vlatko]

Usually when you jack up the car and lower it, the wheel stay in wrong camber than it is when you drive...
How do you get right ridehight?

[speedy]

rocking it up and down and wacking the blocks with a big hamer
make good enough i thougt? :rolleyes:

[Mini Vlatko]

Ah...OK then lol

[speedy]

and after setting the car and driving,its deadstraight....
but now there is a new problem.... from about 130km/h it starts to vibrate.
it gets worse on higher speed. up to 120 its not there.
will find that... and report.;)

[Purtsi]

and after setting the car and driving,its deadstraight....
but now there is a new problem.... from about 130km/h it starts to vibrate.
it gets worse on higher speed. up to 120 its not there.
will find that... and report.;)

I had the same problem. I thought it might be the twisted frive shafts but since I've installed the new ones I haven't had a chance to try if that have cured the problem. If you find out that it's something else that causes it, please let us know.

[speedy]

will do...;)

[speedy]

well then,,,, it looks like i found the problem.. allthough
not really sure till i get some fresh gearboxoil in the morning.

the left innerpot had some play,i could move it from side to side...
the first thing i thought the gearbox would be shot... but... because
it sounds okay,i thought i would try another innerpot.
and that one doesnt move about.... so mayby...
more on this tomorrow.

[speedy]

the innerpot was the problem, allmost had a bigger problem...
the other innerpot i tried was a mk1 and it didnt want to come
loose anymore... but... with brute force it came loose..
good pot in and oil in the box again,and a testdrive...

could pull it up to 180 km/h without the vibration i had before.
so... i'm happy again:D

[Purtsi]

How much there was play? in mm? Also, did you buy a new pot or how did you fix it? It might be that I have the same problem in my mini. need to check that next time i go to garage (easter).

[speedy]

I have stripped about four cars ,so i have some spares.
the old innerpot had about 2mm of play in the gearbox,and i could
pull it out real easy... the (new) one clicks in... so maybe just
a new spring on the innerpot will do. i tried the old innerpot on my dummygearbox. and i could pull it out just by grabbing it..
have you tried driving with your new shafts?
so bent as they were,it could be the problem...

[Purtsi]

So if I can pull the pot easily out, then it's most likely to be the cause of problems? That could have caused the driveshafts to bend maybe.

No, I haven't driven it yet. I can't get out of the garage due the snow. I'm hoping that by easter the snow have melted enough for me to hit the road.

How much do you have mk1 spares btw? ;)

[speedy]

the snow was here again yesterdaymorning... not as much as where you are... :p what parts would you need? i use mk2 engine and box and the loom from a mk1... and the intake...

[Purtsi]

It's difficult to say what I need before something brakes down :D but a solid cambelt cover would be nice to have :) Also spare mk1 engine would be nice to have at some point... not in a hurry =) and maybe those pots depending on what's the condition of the current ones. Oh, if you have a spare mk1 or mk2 fuel rail, my friend might be interested in it.

[speedy]

for the engine you can allso use mk2. the cambeltcover (upper?) i have..
the feulrail i have allso... for both types...
i have three engines left... i think one of them is dead... that one i must strip to get a plate and a flywheel made to mate the suzukiengine to a beetle . :) then i want to put one of the other two in my ascona.

[Purtsi]

Well, I have the upper part of the cambelt cover too but the bottom part is more or less modified and would prefer a original one. So the mk1/2 cambelt covers are exact same? Good info :)

Shouldn't you put a Porsche engine in a Beetle instead? ;)

How much you're asking for the fuel rails?

[speedy]

the mk2 cover is a little deeper because the cambelt is wider. and the hole for topengine mount is not in it... but it would fit.. :)

hmmm... what to say? for mk2? say 20 euro? does he need injectors?

[Purtsi]

Hmm.. it sounds like that I've the mk2 cover on my engine as it isn't a proper fit and I had to modify it. Better to search for a mk1 then.

I believe he has good injectors on his engine. I'll check what's the sitution on the engine build and does he still need the fuel rail.

[speedy]

thats okay, i must say that everything i need for the engine
i can order from the suzuki dealer here , they have it the next day...

and about the porsche engine,its longer and heavyer then the suzuki.
and for slalomuse the suzuki will be great.