Swift Elf G13B build

[bobjonah]

Hi all..

My father and I have taken the plunge and decided to upgrade our '69 Riley elf with a 16 Valve Suziki Swift GTI powerplant..

We originally restored our Elf in 2006 and have had a few great summers cruising the backroads of Atlantic Canada. We've even had a go at the hills of Sunday River in Bethel Main , the car performing admirably. Sadley however the original 998cc , even with the tweaks we have made, has just not given us the overal performace we would like to see.

And so our journey begins. Some might say its a little late in the winter months to really start a build and hope to have the car back on the road in time for spring. Hey we are in the maritimes and it snowed just yesterday, I figure we have a good few weeks before that stops and roads get a few good rinses to wash the winter nasty off them :)

Besides, how hard could it really be to fit a 20 year old motor in a 40 year old car ;)

We'll keep you posted on our progress and I'm sure we may have a question or two for the group as we really get into it...

Here is a link to our original build of the car back in '06 and we will post new build pics as we go..
http://riley-elf.blogspot.com/

Cheers!

[pickup76]

sounds like a cool project! I love elfs and hornets but a 16v one is even better :lol:

Have you seen the vtec elf? http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15165

Chris

[bobjonah]

Yes, I did see this one - very nice job. I wonder what that Honda engine weighs. I chose to do the G13B based on it's light weight and right hand bias which allows me to retain my original radiator placement. I do not want to do any irreversable modifications, as the Elves and Hornets are seriously rare in Canada - only 4 or 5 in all I think. We should have a few photos to post tomorrow.

[miniswift]

NICE!

Welcome and good choice of an engine!
I wanted to have Elf or Hornet for long, long time.
What mk of engine are you going to use?

You should become a member of Teamswift and redlinegti.
They can give you many good advice for either NA or Turbo.

Keep us posted with your build!

Cheers
Atchi

[bobjonah]

Thanks for your interest - I have read your build as well and find it very informative - bits of genius here and there.

I believe the engine is a Mk2, from a 1990 model. When Greg gets here later today we will try to post a few photos.

I do not want to modify my bulkhead for intake runner clearance if at all possible - has anybody attempted tipping the intake up and forward? I have looked it over and think it can be done by milling the mounting flange at a different angle and bending the support brackets - any thoughts / comments on this ? I am left hand drive so do not have the master cylindres to contend with on that side.

The other area that concerns me is clearance between the transmission and the steering rack, as I want to mount the engine a bit to the left hand side, so the cam belt cover is not sticking into the inner fender on the right. My drive shafts will most likely come out at 335mm and 305mm rather than 320mm each if it was centered.

Cheers
Bob Jonah

[bobjonah]

Back at it today, time for a few Photos.

This first three are the frame Jig with simulated bulkhead across the towers. If we can clear this we are laughing.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0204.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0205.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0206.jpg


The final three are of the motor. We beleive its a MK2 but if you can spot otherwise let us know :)

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0207.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0209.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0212.jpg

[kcchan]

Nope, thats definitely a MK2. I like the idea of simulating the bulkhead and Im not sure if your going to but you might aswell simulate the front valance aswell.

[bobjonah]

Yes we will be simulating the front valance, as well, we are going to simulate the fender profile. That , hopefully, will save us a bit of frustration when it comes time to do the final fit. :)

[miniswift]

Hi,

Yes, that's mk2 alright.
You can tell by looking at 2 things.
1, your gearbox has a black steel cover for 5th gear.
2, your cambelt.

I think you can do away with off-setting your engine without modifying(cut) inner wing. If you look at Smarfy's build, you can see well.

Also, I don't think you need to modify bulk head, too much. Since you don't have master cylinders. You can even use a hydro clutch setup, so you don't need to worry too much there.

For your steering rack, wise. I have some people mounted onto front subframe itself. So, I don't know if you can do that or not.

Anyway, good luck and keep us informed. It looks like you know what you are doing from the jig you made!

Cheers
Atchi

[bobjonah]

Quick progress update from the build..

Progress has been slow the last couple of weeks. But we have managed to get some work done on the subframe. We are quickly learning how extreemly tight a space we have to work with. The steering rack is one spot we may have some issues. Being left hand drive we are running into some interferance with the gearbox. Another minor concern is the number 1 cylinder intake runner interfering with the bulkhead... One thought we have had is to plane the intake manifold flange a few degrees to allow a bit more wiggle room. Has anyone tried this? Tips? words of caution? We have a spare intake manifold and can test with that. If it doesn't work out its not a big job to modify the bulkhead anyway.

Here are a few more pictures of the subframe with a first attempt at squeezing the motor into place. We've simulated some of our critical bottle necks and will hopefully have the positioning sorted out and subframe finished by next weekend.


http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0222.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0224.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0225.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0226.jpg

[Spiyda]

Looking real good !

One thing we have done is add a gearbox filler plug onto the pressed metal gearbox end cover.. the OEM filler plug is a PITA to get to when its in the subframe.

The steering rack was mounted to the subframe on my kit car.. bolted to two 6mm thick x about 40mm wide straps that were bolted to the back of the subframe. It worked really well, unfortunately I don't have any pics, and Pete sold the subframe :?

Will you be able to change the oil filter? Our solution was to make the front of the subframe lower than the filter, but it does mean the subframe is visible below the valance. Its not a big problem with a removable front as a section of the subframe can tuck into the valance... One other possibility is a bolt in section around the filter, that you fit after the subframe is in place...

and what's that pink stuff ? I've been dying to ask

:D

[OzMidnight]

What about a remote oil filter?

[bobjonah]

Hi Spiyda:
Thanks for the great tip on the filler plug - had not even considered that yet. Do you know what level to mount it. If not I can figure it out.
Is the Mk2 diff case different than the Mk1? Mine seems to be larger than most photos that I have looked at. I suppose that clearance here is not an issue with RH steering? The "Pink stuff" is painted markings - letters and numerals and dobs on some of the bolt heads - I have not attempted to decipher it yet and I do not know the purpose either. They may be production markings OR the trans may have been replaced by one from an auto salvage yard, and the markings may be the auto salvage control numbers.
I think that I have enough room right now to change the filter as it is. I do not want to use a smaller filter, so if I cannot change it, I will put a remote filter and oil cooler. Good clean oil and lots of it is what I like.
I have a spare intake manifold, so I am having the mounting flange milled at a different angle to provide better clearance at the bulkhead. This should allow me to tip the engine to the "magic" 5 degrees and give me better clearance at the steering rack. I should only have to modify the accelerator cable mount if all goes as planned. This will take a coulple of weeks tho, as my son in law ( machinist ) is away on vacation right now. Any input on this is VERY welcome .

Bob Jonah

[Spiyda]

It was virtually impossible to get at the original plug

We couldn't get the new filler plug low enough to act as a level plug, so I just welded a nut on as low as I thought I could get away with on the casing... the plug is just a short bolt with a fibre washer.

To fill it we pour in the measured amount with a funnel and tube.

Where we have it, there is a hole in the casting behind that the tube slips into.. you'll see it when you get in there... makes the filling faster..


http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s48/Iamcabaged/DSCF0346.jpg


Clearance on RHD is still an issue... it's a tight fit whatever...


Pity we are UK and you are Oz... we have several spare manifolds you could have a play with :-(

I have looked at it the manifold situation when we first started..and was going to cut a section out of the runners rather than machine the flange... the metal is just about weldable with a MIG, Argon and ally wire if you don't have TIG ..... however, we decided to go ITB then supercharger, so I have made the manifolds from scratch.. ... the problem is not as bad for you LHDs so if you can get away with just machining the flange, go for it !

[bobjonah]

DOH!..

Time for an update. Progress has been slow to date but finally had the subframe ready for a trial fit. Motor mounts installed engine fits at the magic 5 degrees. Gave up on tipping the manifold and have modified the bulkhead instead. The wisdome of the web holds true!

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0013.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0014.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0022.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0016.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0034.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0033-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0028.jpg

So tonight we attempted our first trial fit of the subframe into the chasis. We now realize why everybody else takes the front off the car.....

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0038.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0040.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0041.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0042.jpg


This thing won't fit in one piece ;) Any Ideas??? Has anyone ever attempted a two piece frame?

[Purtsi]

I'll face the same problem with my build but as I'll cut away the side panels from the engine bay I can lift the front side of the frame first in and the the back side and it should fit nicely then. And if not, I'll cut away metal below the bumper and lift the frame straight up =) Then I just need to fill the hole with a grill or sheet metal so it doesn't look too rough.

[miniswift]

Hi,

I think you want to make your front removable for easier access.
I know it is a Elf so front panel will be very expensive part to replace.
If yu cut just front of A-panel and drill out inner wing spot welds, you can use inner wings to bolt on as well as A-panel. For the front you will have subframe mounts, so you can use your original panel as it is.

Alternatively, you can mod front section of subframe. You only need recess for an exhust manifold/header. So, you can make recess just big enough and detachable. This means, you will need to modify your engine and gearbox mounts stiffner.

Cheers
Atchi

[Spiyda]

Pete's subframe went in and out easy enough with the engine in it.. before we cut the front off for other reasons..

we had the front of the subframe lower than the front panel but provided nbone of the subframe is any further forward than the mounting points where the front panel bolts to it, then it should fit no problem.. almost certainly have to remove the exhaust manifold though..

It went in almost exactly vertical, eg with the subframe blocked to its final position, we lowered the body down on to it...


there are plenty of pics of the subframe in the build diary, but none of us actually fitting it in the body

http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8972

[bobjonah]

Thanks for your fast response and excellent ideas - much appreciated. I am going to try a two piece frame. I will cut all four front / back connecting members and put a 4" long solid insert inside. This will be drilled, tapped and bolted together to provide a very solid connection. I hope that I have enough room to make it work. The next big question is - will I be able to install the engine thru the existing bonnet opening, or will I run into trouble here as well?

[ChrisClubmanEstate]

This may sound absolutely stupid, tape some cardboard boxes together in that roughly fit the shape and profile of the engine and see if it fits.

(Yes, I should work on Blue Peter)

:lol:

[Spiyda]

BTW looking at the pics, in some, you didn't have the towers lined up with the recesses in the firewall/front bulkhead.. they need to slot into there to have any chance of getting it in in one.. ..

If you are lifting only the front of the car, you have to lean the subframe back slightly as you start to lower to compensate for the angle of the body to the floor.. then tilt it forward as you lower..

But it goes in pretty mush at the angle it ends up at... not leaning back like in your pics..

but it will go in... ! as I said as long as nothing projects past the front mounting holes..

If you are keeping the tin front.. I would definitely fit the engine to the subframe, then the subframe to the body...

a) it may not be possible to get the new engine in that way
b) less likely to damage the bodywork / paint
c) its a lot easier to assemble stuff etc while it is out of the body

The manifolds may need fitting afterward as they tend to project most

Chris

[Red Riley]

Interesting build. I never considered the Swift motor. Those cars aren't too common around here. I'm not sure if the Geo Metro or one of the little Chevy Sprints has the same motor, but I've never seen one of them that looked like it could pull itself out of a pothole anyway. Once I found out that Mini Tec could do a D-series Honda in a standard nose Mini that was the only way I could see to go. I've put about a thousand miles on my Elf since the VTEC went in in February, and so far, it's been a real blast to drive. I'll be interested to see how yours progresses.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3337/3269713673_0847f7cfd7.jpg
http://superfastminis.com/SMART_ELF.htm

[bobjonah]

Thanks for all of the ideas and support. The biggest problem is that the front of the frame protrudes 2" in front of the front mounting points - nests tightly inside the front body curl. This gives great clearance for the exhaust, but the unexpected problem of fitting the frame in situ.

So, last night I cut the four back to front tubes, creating a two piece frame. These two pieces were easily installed. To join them, I have made 4" long solid square stock to slide inside the tubes. These will be drilled, tapped and bolted in place, so the frame can be removed if need be. It may be a bit tricky sliding them into place, but lets face it - if it was easy everybody would be doing it.

Re the cardboard boxes - not so stupid - sounds kind of fun actually. We just may try that as it could highlight where our problem areas are before we get into trouble and damage the paint etc..

Greg will send some photos this weekend - hopefully with the engine installed.

Bob Jonah

[bobjonah]

To Red Riley - That car looks stunning - great job. There are very few Elves and Hornets in North America - probably fewer than six in all, so it is great to see them in such fine kit

[bobjonah]

Engine is not in just yet but here are the pics of the subframe mounted in the car.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0046.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0050.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0052.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0056.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0061.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0065.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0066.jpg

[bobjonah]

Some pictures of the motor in the car..

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0006.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0007.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0010.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0020.jpg

[bobjonah]

We finally got a few photos of the frame and engine in the Elf. The connectors for the two piece frame worked very well. the small holes in the connectors are just to slide the connector thru the tubes to the final position. We coated them with ceramic anti seize to lubricate and protect them from corrosion They slid into place quite nicely, and are bolted with four 1/4" stainless steel bolts threaded into the connectors - no future nproblems anticipated here.

We removed the manifolds and the front pully from the engine, and it slid in thru the bonnet opening easier than an "A" series. We had put plenty of protective cardboard on the wings etc. for protection, but did not need it. We put it in and out three times in less than 20 minutes. The cardboard box mock-up was a good idea, but was not necessary.

Still a few mods necessary before final placement is decided. I may cut the inner wing so the engine can move a bit further to the right hand side. this is needed for steering box clearance and to even up the drive shaft lengths.

After that is done I can do the final welding and bracing on the frame and start rebuilding and cleaning the engine. It will be nice to leave the welding and cutting grit behind, and enter the realm of grease and paint.

Question -- why do most use the Swift speedo ? Is there a critical component in it ? What are the chances of my stock speedo working with the Swift gears ? I am running Dunlop 175 x 13 x 50 tyres on 7" wide wheels.

The question re the speedo is probably the first of a series of electrical questions - this is the most intimidating aspect of the transplant for me. I have been dealing with points and mechanical advance curves all of my life - but never computer controled gismos, so please be patient when the questions start coming.

Bob Jonah

[speedy]

hi there,

how is your build coming?
to answer one of your questions.
if your running a mk2 or up you will need the speedo.
there is a pickup in the speedo that goes to the ecu.
but you can make that work in a centre clock.
a few nights of toying around will make that happen :)
just dont stall... and keep us posted..

[bobjonah]

Hi Speedy:
Thanks for the info re the speedo - I suspected that. I think that I can hide the GTI gauge cluster inside the left hand glove box, and just open the door when I need it, as I do not want to loose the original appearance. Then I will try to put it into the Smiths case next winter.

We have stalled a bit - very busy with life and NHL hockey playoffs right now. Have been making some progress however. Rebuilt gas tank with new filler cap and built in pump with return line -I put the mini chrome cap over the GTI vented cap and it fit very well - will send photos as it looks great, and original also.

We are still shooting for end of June or early July finish, but still lots to do - will keep you informed.

[bobjonah]

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSCF3245.jpg

found a great 10" 800 CFM fan

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSCF3253.jpg
Fits inside the standard shroud
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSCF3254.jpg

Very low profile -
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSCF3252.jpg
Fitted the GTI pump inside the mini tank - a bit of bending on the fuel level float arm and the smiths gauge works just fine
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSCF3250.jpg
modified the GTI fuel cap and welded the GTI thread into the mini tank - no more leaking fuel.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSCF3249.jpg
and looks good too...Please pardon the dust :oops:

[speedy]

very nice...
and the dust will come off on the first blast :lol:

[bobjonah]

So... . We're still working at it.. We are just about ready to start peicing it all together.. Here are a few pics.

Here are a couple of the block, upside down with a fresh coat of paint...

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0526.jpg


http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0527.jpg

Here is one of the Manifold, rusty ugly bits removed and painted. Don't mind the temporary insert where the O2 sensor used to be ;)

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0528.jpg

A pic of the transmission all ready to go..

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0529.jpg

Close-up of the new drain plug outside and inside....

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0530.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0531.jpg

Various odds and ends... including the oil pan.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0532.jpg

Spedo modications:

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0533.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0534.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0535.jpg

Coat of paint for the cam belt cover...

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0536.jpg

a couple of the spruced up Valve cover

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0537.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0538.jpg

And last but not least, the intake manifold..
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0539.jpg

[speedy]

nice one on the speedo... looks so simple...
the rest makes mine look really gruby... hahahahaha...

[bobjonah]

Well we have started to make some progress again. We finished the subframe a few weeks ago and I totally forgot about posting the pics.. Here they are :)
Better late than never I guess...

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/Subframefrontleft.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/Subframefrontright.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/subframeback.jpg

Next we have it in the car :)

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/FullView.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/Backleft.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/backright.jpg

Next post will have engine build pics :)

[bobjonah]

Well.. We started final assembly of the motor.. Everything going smooth so far. Still a few peices to assemble but not far from dropping it in the car :)

We are still aiming to have this thing done so we can take it for a rip before the first snow fall so the posts should be more frequent ;)

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0519.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0520.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0521.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0522.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0524-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0525-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0526-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0528-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0530-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0534-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0535-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0537-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0539-1.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/DSC_0541.jpg

[strudel]

Just came across your build and in the same country as well. Nice job so far. Don't know if this is worth commenting on but here I go. For the two piece frame it looks like it worked for you but it appears to me that sliding the tube on the inside may be somewhat awkward to orientate for the bolts. Would it not be a lot easier to put the sliding piece on the outside rather than inside? Easier to handle and better access I would think. Just my thoughts. Keep up the good work. Drive it to MMW in Penticton, BC next summer. JS

[bobjonah]

Thanks for your comments - much appreciated. we used a 4" long piece of solid material for the joint, so it had to be inside. To slide it into position, there is a series of 1/8" dimples ( see previous photos ) that can be accessed thru the bolt holes. Yes it was a bit difficult to move them as they are tight. We used clamps to align the tubes, and a pick to slide the joint along. A bit of light tapping with a hammer also helped. This makes a very strong joint and it's not like we will be removing it on a regular basis.

Was quite pleased with this engine - 20 years old and probably abused by several owners over the years and all it needed aside from a good cleaning up was a set of ist oversize pistons. and that was only because one cylinder as.008" over spec. We treated it to all new bearings etc. as well. All of the valves and seats were fantastic, so we just cleaned everything and re-lapped the seats. All new oil seals as well as the originals were totally worn and leaking everywhere - almost a bad as the old "A" series

[Marcus Nordblom]

You could eat from that engine! Really nice, and thanks for all the good pics of whats inside:D

[Carl S]

That looks fantastic! Great work on the engine rebuild :D

[strudel]

Thanks for the explanation of how the bar works. My only concern would be rust. Even though you may have lots of anti seize in there all it takes is a bit of fine grit to get in somehow and you will have a major issue to move the internal bar. If it were a tube on the outside you could at least hit it with a drift and use lubricant easily to get it moving again. The other option perhaps would be a U channel which would probably do the trick as well. Sorry, I tend to over think these things sometimes. I guess it's because I have had issues in the past with items that were very difficult to get apart again. JS

[bobjonah]

Hi Strudel:
Your concerns are noted and understood - been there a few times myself. Worst case scenario is that I have to cut it apart and re-do it after - not a big deal.

Bob Jonah

[bobjonah]

Its been a while since we've made any progress on the build but we've just reached a new milestone and thought we'd post a few more pics

First a quick diagram , the plan. We used a simple peice of woden dowel to make our measurements for final axel length then drew up what we needed.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/Suzuki2miniaxelplans-1.jpg

Next we have the four axles cut to rough lengths ready for machining.
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/MiniAxles001.jpg


http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/MiniAxles005.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/MiniAxles007.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/MiniAxles010.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/MiniAxles009.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/MiniAxlesFinished001.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/MiniAxlesFinished002.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/MiniAxlesFinished004.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu282/bobjonah/MiniAxlesFinished006.jpg

[DVO]

Looks very nice, especially the machined pin connection. I was thinking on more or less the same solution only with a loose inner pin. Think only the welding wont hold and the shaft needs an extra sleeve , but that is my opinion.

Dennis

[Purtsi]

Did I read correctly that the other end has cooled down and other heated up before mating together? If so, then I'm surprised if that joint won't last.

[bobjonah]

Yes, you are reading it corectly. The center pin is an interfearance fit - @ .0025". We heated the female section to @ 850 degree F and mated the two. When cooled,it would probably drive quite well without welding. The welding was TIG with stainless filler and was done on a rotating stand. After all was done, we measured the runout at less than .0015". The machining and welding was done at a local aircraft parts manufacturing plant so I am confidant that the weld is secure. The axels can only transmit as much torque as the tires will allow. I think that most axel failures are caused by runout and poor alignment putting stress into the welds.

[DVO]

Wish I could have access to that kind of services. We have a spacecentre near here but dont think they will want to do my driveshafts :rolleyes:

Dennis

[bobjonah]

So, what you got to do is get the quality control guy to marry your daughter - all smiles after that.

Bob Jonah

[speedy]

controling a controlguy..... nice:cool:

[bobjonah]

Question: How important is the air valve located on the back side of the intake plenum? This appears to control idle speed when the engine is cold. Can I remove this without affecting anything too much?

[Spiyda]

Question: How important is the air valve located on the back side of the intake plenum? This appears to control idle speed when the engine is cold. Can I remove this without affecting anything too much?

That's exactly what it does...I'd at least keep the possibility of keeping it (if you know what I mean)
Otherwise you may find you need to keep your foot on the throttle a bit to keep the engine going in cold weather until it warms up. If you are only using it in summer.. then it doesn't matter so much.

[bobjonah]

That's what I thought, but always good to confirm - Thanks. I will make a blanking plate to close the hole in the plenum, and re-route the water. Can't be much worse than a cold "A" series, and I only drive in the summer anyway.

[bobjonah]

Been a while since we updated. Winter and work seem to get in the way. We have modified the intake plenum and mounted the throttle body on the other side. It was really easy, and now the MAF and air filter are inside the engine bay. We just have to paint it and mount the MAF solidly. Photos to follow soon. The Clutch is all done as well - hydrolic with a new braided hose. The exhaust is sorted - we moved the o2 sensor downstream and fitted a flex section. The shifter is fitted as well, and the drive shafts are trial fitted - everything looks good. We are getting excited to finish this.
Just a few other bits to sort and we will be into the ( dreaded ) wiring. I will post a few photos soon. Except for the alternator, all of the engine and accessories are inside the original body work, so we have not comprimised the original Riley ( Mini ) design.

[DVO]

I am very interested in how the intake plenum looks like now. In the Suzuki scene they do it when using turbo because it makes the pipework shorter. The next step in my conversion will be also fitting a turbo :)

Dennis

[evolotion]

Yes, you are reading it corectly. The center pin is an interfearance fit - @ .0025". We heated the female section to @ 850 degree F and mated the two. When cooled,it would probably drive quite well without welding. The welding was TIG with stainless filler and was done on a rotating stand. After all was done, we measured the runout at less than .0015". The machining and welding was done at a local aircraft parts manufacturing plant so I am confidant that the weld is secure. The axels can only transmit as much torque as the tires will allow. I think that most axel failures are caused by runout and poor alignment putting stress into the welds.

have never seen an axle on this forum fail at the join, the mini end always snapps first, right at the circlip where it enters teh outer CV :)

[Spiyda]

have never seen an axle on this forum fail at the join, the mini end always snapps first, right at the circlip where it enters teh outer CV :)

at the risk of hijacking the thread.. (as I'm prone to do :-) )

I have these occasional brainstorms

Its bad design on the part of the driveshaft designer...
it is a stress point and the sharp corners mean it is the weakest point as far as stress goes... leading to fatigue failure... proven fact!

The easiest way to increase the strength is as several are doing, fit Allegro CVs as they have a bigger diameter spline (I'm making some shafts for geoff at the moment from EN24T)

An alternative would be to have no circlip on the inner.. and I've been wondering how that could be done...

one thought would be to have a spring inside the CV pushing on the end of the driveshaft... it would need to be considerably weaker than the retaining force of the outer spring clip so as not to push the shaft out...

couple that with a spacer behind the spring so that there is only enough movement to get the spring to seat in (It might vary in length from one CV/Shaft to another) and bob's your uncle.....

The spring could even be a rubber or RTV ball, washer or thin coating on the end of the shaft or spacer... to stop movement/vibration.

no inner circlip... no weak point.... stronger driveshafts...

so who's a clever boy then !

It's possible that this is patented somewhere, I'll have a look... but even if it is, its OK to make sets for yourself.

I don't know, but it is possible that when welding two part shafts up, simply by machining off the last few mm of the shaft and using this method, the part of the spline inboard of the circlip would be seated in the CV, making even a standard, grooved spline significantly less prone to fatigue failure.

Chris

[evolotion]

my shafts have no inner circlip. :)

[Spiyda]

my shafts have no inner circlip. :)

Denis, are they ones you had made ?

Chris

[bobjonah]

Just several months ago, there was a chap with axel failure. They were sleeved and welded. However I do agree fully with what you are saying re the circlip groove. It is certainly the weak point. It would have been better with a radius bottom rather than the square edge.
And this is why we built the shrink fit joint - to keep the shafts straight, and minimize flexural ( is that spelt correctly ) stress at the groove. Also, our engine is positioned to try and keep the shafts in line with the hubs.

[bobjonah]

Time for an update of our progress: We lopped off the throttle body mount with a sawsall

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5z6J9Rc3gI/AAAAAAAAHUo/LIFvDj2-oXI/s800/Manifold%20002.jpg


Dressed up the cut end so it could be welded

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5z6KDCdgGI/AAAAAAAAHUs/PFous2etcJs/s800/Manifold%20004.jpg


Dressed the other end and welded on the throttle mount before milling out the hole

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5z6KWKuF5I/AAAAAAAAHUw/1vvWpFZFKAY/s800/Manifold%20Project%20001.jpg


Now the throttle body is on the other end

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5zpih47AaI/AAAAAAAAHP8/qsVJihC59dA/s800/DSC_0003.JPG


And the original side is welded shut

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5zpmYI9iPI/AAAAAAAAHQs/ng1Sq5cxw2M/s800/DSC_0015.JPG


New cable mount works well. We are deleting the cold idle control - hope we do not need it

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5zpoHFJX_I/AAAAAAAAHRI/OQd4Hqrs8x8/s800/DSC_0022.JPG


Now the complete induction system is inside the engine bay

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5zpr4hY1LI/AAAAAAAAHSA/jevmmzkGlwo/s800/DSC_0036.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5zpsFUsaqI/AAAAAAAAHSE/iBKB1729ljU/s800/DSC_0037.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5zpq2tEuRI/AAAAAAAAHR0/SbDMnlxS3fg/s800/DSC_0033.JPG


The clutch is now operating with the mini hydro cylinder. We need the return spring to retract the arm fully, so the throw out bearing is not making contact when running

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5zpkqCBb2I/AAAAAAAAHQU/pJMGWIoS9Hg/s800/DSC_0009.JPG


The O2 sensor has been moved down line and a flex fitting is installed for the exhaust. Hard to see, but the shift rods are in place and the exhaust clears all

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_ZZ4BsIPxws8/S5zpvtvsjnI/AAAAAAAAHSw/bjU_az0gBlM/s800/DSC_0048.JPG


Next task is to finalize the front brake tubing. Then we will not be able to avoid the wiring any longer - not looking forward to this. However, once that is done, we will be mobile. :p

[DVO]

Looks very neat under the bonnet, my car is a much bigger mess :rolleyes: The solution with the inlet looks great would also like to have something like that but the work will cost me an arm and a leg I think when I have something like that done at a machineshop here.

Dennis

[bobjonah]

The manifold can easily be cut by hand - we machined it just because we can, but a bit of time with a good saw and a file would achieve the same result. The welding should be done by a professional, but again it is easy and there is not much of it, so the cost cannot be that great. I used the mounting bosses for the cold engine idle valve for the new cable mounting, but this also could be done different if you want. I also had the extra manifold to experiment with, so no loss if it failed.

[DVO]

I found on the internet a kind of stick that can "weld" aluminium with a torch. I think I will have a try with that. The video on the site looks very promising and the costs are relatively low. When I go for a turbo changing the place of the throttle will make a lot of things much easier.

Dennis

[bobjonah]

Hi Guys:
We are getting very close to finishing - just tidying up the engine bay and doing the wiring - should have it running by the week end.
I have a question regarding transmission fluid. The Suzuki manual suggests 2.4 liters of SAE 75 gear lube. A recent forum was talking about Honda manual gear box oil being the best choice for Honda boxes. Has anybody used Honda oil in the Suzuki Box? Would you recommend it? I have bought some, and it looks very thin - almost like ATF, but not as red and a bit thicker. Your advise on this would be appreciated.

Thanks
Bob Jonah

[Pete D16]

Frustrating isn't it!, had the same problem on my fixed front (std length) mini .

Cant remember if elf front valance is different to a mini but i removed a section from mine to allow the front of the new frame free passage vertically up to its resting place and then cut an overlapping panel from a new valance, securing it with small fasteners. Shame to cut a finished frame in two.

[Pete D16]

Oops, got carried away on your subrame fitting problems from page 1!!

Still, gives me an opportunity to wish you well on your start up.

[miniswift]

Hi Bob,

I read in Teamswift once that going half and half with Automatic transmission fluid(ATF) with help your gearbox. I wasn't sure about this but when I changed my gearbox oil to Honda oil(my mechanic was ex-chief Honda mechinic), it started to have some difficulty with changing gears smoothly. So I took it back and ask him to drain half and add ATF as replacement by my request.
He wasn't sure about it but he test drove it before and after and result was very impresive. No more gear grind and very smooth change over.

I would like to do this to my gearbox but I have LSD in it so I don't know if I can do it..

Cheers
Atchi

[bobjonah]

Hi Atchi:

[bobjonah]

Hi Atchi:
lets try this again. Thanks for your response. I used to use half SAE 90 gear oil and half ATF in my Datsun 240Z race car. It worked amazingly well with over 1650 shifts in a 2 hour rase and 270 in a 15 lap sprint. But, I read that the Honda oil was even better by itself, in honda boxes.
I will heed your advise and try the ATF again.

Bob Jonah

[DVO]

Better first ask at a Suzuki dealer, not all seals can withstand ATF what I understood of a experienced mechanic.

Denns

[bobjonah]

Oooo - so many things to consider. Thanks for that Denis. I don't have a Suzuki dealer near, but I will definitely check that out - unless somebody out there has experience with this.

[miniswift]

Hi,

Suzuki uses same oil seals for automatic gearboxes. So I think you are safe!

Cheers
Atchi

[DVO]

There you have the answer, so probably no problem there :)

Dennis

[Marcus Nordblom]

i use 50/50mix atf/recomended oil in my mk1 box, so far so good;)

[bobjonah]

Looks like the oil issue is sorted - Thanks guys. Now---back to the wiring. This could take a while.

Bob

[bobjonah]

Success - well sort of !! Greg and I spent @ 40 hours doing the wiring and testing everything. we installed the engine and hooked everything up, including all of the cooling and intake hoses.
Finally we had to try it - the fuel pumpran as it should - for 3 seconds without cranking. We did this several times to prime the fuel rail etc and then turned the key to start. It turned over @ 7 turns and started.
We had an almost immediate oil leak at the pressure gauge line ( not unexpected ) , BUT we also have a MASSIVE oil leak at the pump. From what I can see, it is the gasket where the oil leaves the pump and enters the main gallery in the block.
Has anybody run into this before - is there supposed to be an O ring there as well as the gasket? Or did I just flub it when I assembled the engine?
Can the pump be removed without dismanteling the entire engine? I really don't want to remove the engine again this soon

[madzuki]

The gaskets were modified to have an 'O' ring of sealant incorporated on them, the early ones leaked after a while. 16119-60A04 is the later number, though I tend to make them up from gasket paper and make the 'O' ring from contact adhesive, both sides, never had one leak yet.
You can remove the pump, but it means removing the sump as well.

iain

[bobjonah]

Hi Iain:

[bobjonah]

Hi Iain
Thanks for the info. I have ordered the new gasket - 3 days from Toronto, Ontario. I thought that just the paper gasket looked a bit wimpy, but that is all that was there originally. I used RTV sealant on the gasket, but it blew out within seconds. Is there ever a problem with the pressure release valve?
Has anybody ever tried to cut a groove for an actual O-ring, or cut the holes larger for a short piece of steel pipe? I wonder if there is enough material to do that.

[bobjonah]

Quick update: we could not get that gasket - not available in Canada.From the looks of things, I had got some engine paint ( spray ) on the gasket surface and it did not bond well. the rtv silicone sealant bonded well, but the gasket blew out due to the poor paint bond. So, I bored out the oil galleries and put in a hollow dowel .750" long x .512" diameter with .452" internal bore. Then we cut a new gasket from GOOD material and reassembled all.If that blows out I will eat my hat.
Greg took a few photos and we will post this weekend after we get it started.

[bobjonah]

IT'S RUNNING!
At the last minute, Greg decided to wire up the chech engine light, so we could read the codes - turned out to be a great idea, as we had several issues: The ICS was bad ( replaced ), the TPS needed adjustment, a wire was broken on the AFS ( fixed ), and the noise reducer was wired wrong ( oops ).
The engine now runs quite well - no leaks - no nasty noises - and when you crack the throttle, it aint no "A" series.
We just put the shafts and hub assy's on and will do the exhaust tomorrow evening - then we can put it back on the ground and do an alignment. The shafts may be a bit short, but I think they are fine ( could have been @ 1/2" longer ).Lots of other small bits to do, like re-fit the dash etc., but we should be trying it by the weekend. My mates want us to go canoeing, and the lawn needs mowing as well - tempting as it is, that may not happen.
Greg keeps promising photos, and even has a video to post if he can find the time, so stay tuned for more soon.

[DVO]

Congratulations...for me getting the engine running was also a big event. And no it aint an A-series....it is much better. Hope you can get your first drive this weekend.

Dennis

[bobjonah]

Hi Guys:
We got the Elf on to its wheels last evening and took it for a run up the street and back. As expected we have a few issues.

1. The tire hits the alternator at full lock - just brushes the bottom. I have a longer belt, and am hoping that, with it, I will be able to tip the alternator enough to cure the problem. The water pump pully also just touches the suspension cone on bump. It had @ 4mm clearance, until we loaded the suspension. I hope that a bit of rubbing will not hurt the cone, or do you think that I should shave a bit off the cone at that point to avoid future problems ?

2. I cannot get 2nd and 4th gears - I can just feel the syncro teeth starting to mesh. Does this sound like the shift rod is just too short, or is this an indication of bigger problems ? When I cut the shift rods, I removed equal amounts from both the stabilizer and shift rods ( I think ). How critical is the length of the shift rod ? If I lengthen it, will it just tip the shift lever forward and give me more stroke to engage the gears ?

3. The engine seems to be running quite rich - otherwise fine. There are no codes showing up. I have no previous history for this engine, so I don't know if it has been chipped, or if the injectors are standard - is there a way to tell?

4. I painted the cast manifold with what was supposed to be Hi Temperature manifold paint. That CRAP has done nothing but create vast clouds of noxious smoke, and has turned chalky and is flaking off after just 1/2 KM driving and 1/2 hour idling. What do you guys use, or should I just send it out to be porcelanized ?

Your wisdome and guidance is appreciated, as alwa

Bob Jonah

[miniswift]

Hi Bob,

If you have angled engine, you cannot cut gearshift and stabilizer same length.
If it is not selecting 2nd and 4th gears, rod is not long enough. You might be able to adjust it by adjusting mounting bracket mounting holes(4 bolts). I think you can adjust may be 5 to 6mm.

I hope it help!

Cheers
Atchi

[bobjonah]

Hi Atchi:

Thanks for that - it explains where I went wrong.

I will try to adjust the bolts, but I think that I will need a bit more than 6mm. It won't be too difficult to cut the tube and put a 1/2" liner in it. That way I can adjust it to the exact requirement, and re weld it if necessary.

Thanks again
Bob Jonah

[DVO]

Hi Bob,

How did you align your gearstick? The stick itself should be at a 90 degrees angle with the bottom. I did not have any problem with gearshift. Probably you tilted yours backward a bit.

For the alternator you can just use a longer belt, no harm there. I think there shouldn't be any rubbing at all. Not only the cone is affected but also fast moving parts like pully and belt. Shaving some off the cone wont harm it I think.

I also have sometimes a faster running engine at idle, but according to Speedy that is due to a sticking waxstat. What I understand you dont use that part anymore so maybe there is an airleak somewhere? Spray some brakecleaner on the inlet side to check.

My exhaust manifold is as it is... a bit rusty ...mine is not meant to be a show winner ;)

Dennis

[bobjonah]

Hi Denis:

I think that you are right - mine is tilted back a bit. I am going to cut the rod and put a sleeve inside, so I can place the shifter where it will work for all gears, then re-weld it. Wish me luck.

I will try the longer belt - I may have to cut my inner fender a bit more. I hope that it works, as I have a rather large Delco alternator ( 105 amp ). If that does not work, I will have to source a smaller alternator.

You are correct, I do not have the waxstat any longer. My idle is not too fast - I can adjust it to suit, but my mixture seems very rich - lots of black smoke and stinks like the old "A" series - possibly all a part of the "stealth" system. I have looked at my return line, and I may have kinked it a bit when I pulled it between the frame and the firewall, giving me too much fuel pressure. I will check it, and hopefully that is all that it is.

On the Riley, the exhaust manifold can be seen thru the center grille opening, so it has to look a little bit good. It is OK for now, but next winter I will get it properly coated.

Cheers
Bob Jonah

[DVO]

The standard alternator on a Swift is very compact and in fact most Japanese manufactured alternators are very compact so maybe have a look there, maybe you can avoid more cutting.

Dennis

PS Not much pictures lately :cool:

[bobjonah]

Weekend Progress:

We modified the shift linkage as suggested - all 5 gears now - silky smooth with Honda manual gear oil.

Replaced the fuel return line with a 3/8" galv steel one - problem solved. The engine now idles properly and is very responsive. May have to invest in sticky tires, as the Dunlop SP 2000's break loose easily in 3rd gear if we tramp her down.

The alternator is another matter - put a longer belt, and pulled it up @ 30mm, but I am still not happy with it, and forsee future problems. It is OK for now, and will pass safety inspection, but I am looking for one of those teeney weeney Nipon Denso ones, that will nestle in beside the headlight pot.

The speedo modification that we did with the Suzuki speed sensor on the back of the Smiths speedo seems to work well - nice and smooth, and with 13" wheels, the indicated speed is fairly close. We will confirm it with the GPS.

For now, we just have to mount the bonnet, find a place for the air horns and fabricate a heat shield for the exhaust manifold - then we are off for a road safety inspection. wish us luck.

Bob Jonah

[bobjonah]

Happy New Year All!!
It,s been a while since we updated. The Riley worked very well, and we put about 3000 miles on it this past sumer with no major problems This winter we need to fine tune a few things:
1.The alternator needs constant adjustment - we will be constructing a new "MK5" bracket with a fine thread "pusher bolt" adjuster which should be the final solution. Will post photos when finished.
2. The exhaust manifold needs refinishing, as the Hi Temp exhaust paint lasted only 1/2 hour, and the manifold now looks worse than a turd. I am considering having it salt bath nitrided, but am a bit concerned regarding the heat involved - maybe Spiyda can advise me on this as he seems to have some experience here.
3. We need a tachometer. I want the Smiths 3" one with a black mounting pod for the "Period" look. Does anybody know if he spark pulses are the same as the A series or is there some crazy wasted spark situation with the Suzuki ignition?
4. We need a bit more cooling capacity for the hot days. It has never overheated, but to keep it under control we have to run the heater as well, and that is unpleasant at 30 degrees celcius. I am looking for a small motorcycle rad that can be plumbed in series with the Mini rad.
5. Have a new fuel pressure regulator to install - Aeromotive 30-90 PSI.
6. New KAD rear camber brackets and all new tapered roller wheel bearings also going on.
7. Also investigating hooking up an oil cooler, but do not have roo for a sandwich plate behind the filter. I will look at machining a take off directly into the oil gallery etc.
8. Lastly, we need to fit some engine restraints or re-do the mounts, cos that little lump wants to move around and hit things when driven hard. It especially wants to put the water pump pulley into the cone tower on hard shifting and when accelerating hard thru right hand turns - left hand seems fine ( confusing )

Anyway - that's where we are now - will send photos as we progress

Bob Jonah

[Spiyda]

Bob,

Salt bath treatment is perfectly safe .. I don't know how effective it will be though...

the best would probably be a ceramic coating

but as a cheapskate I'm a fan of fibreglass wrap.. which can be sprayed with coloured high temp paint once on !

[bobjonah]

Thanks for the quick reply. I am not so concerned with the process temp. as I am with the operating temp. Do you know how hot the manifold gets, and will this affect the nitride finish?
Yes, I would prefer porcelain as well, but cannot find anybody to do it in Canada. As it is, I have to send the manifold to Alberta ( 4000 miles ) just to have it nitrided.

Thanks
Bob Jonah

[Spiyda]

Thanks for the quick reply. I am not so concerned with the process temp. as I am with the operating temp. Do you know how hot the manifold gets, and will this affect the nitride finish?
Yes, I would prefer porcelain as well, but cannot find anybody to do it in Canada. As it is, I have to send the manifold to Alberta ( 4000 miles ) just to have it nitrided.

Thanks
Bob Jonah

I have not used salt bath treatment for hot components..
I guess it would depend on the actual process...
do the folks doing it have and specifications?

I have heard of boron nitriding components, but that was with a paint-on and heat treatment, not a salt bath.. it helps with heat dissipation.

Chris


ps I just found this

http://www.topspindesign.com/business/bn_coating.htm

[bobjonah]

Hi Chris:

I will check TSD, but I doubt that they are in Canada. I am considering www.thermexmetal.com . They do a QPQ process that produces a beautiful result, but they suggest that 700 degrees ( F ) would be about the maximum without harming the finish. I don't know how hot the manifold gets, but it has not set anything on fire yet, nor has it blistered the paint on the front facia. Any guess from your experience regarding manifold temperature is appreciated.

Thanks
Bob Jonah

[Spiyda]

Hi Chris:

I will check TSD, but I doubt that they are in Canada. I am considering www.thermexmetal.com . They do a QPQ process that produces a beautiful result, but they suggest that 700 degrees ( F ) would be about the maximum without harming the finish. I don't know how hot the manifold gets, but it has not set anything on fire yet, nor has it blistered the paint on the front facia. Any guess from your experience regarding manifold temperature is appreciated.

Thanks
Bob Jonah

700 F is not even hot !

700 C is more like it.... thats about 1300F

exhaust manifolds can glow at least a dull cherry red.. (some hotter)

thats 1200 -1300 F (I had to look it up, I'm so used to degrees C !)

I wouldn't even look at something below 1000F

[strudel]

ob,

If you are going to sent your manifold to Alberta anyway I can give you a place locally in Edmonton that does ceramic coating. There are probably others that do this but I just still happen to have his business card from an auto show. JS

Contact Impact Coatings - Mike Flicker
Web page: http://impact-coatings.ca/?page_id=8
Contact info:http://maps.google.ca/maps/place?client=safari&rls=en&oe=UTF-8&redir_esc=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=impact+coatings&fb=1&gl=ca&hq=impact+coatings&hnear=Edmonton,+AB&cid=15846320440755700434

[bobjonah]

Thanks for that Strudel - I contacted them and They really seem to know what they are doing. I will be sending my manifold to them next week for ceramic coating. As an aded benifit, they claim that the under hood temperature will be greatly reduced. This could also be a benifit for future turbo, as the heat energy remains inside the exhaust system.

Bob Jonah

[bobjonah]

Merry Christmas Everybody - Hope you all have a wonderfull holiday.
Have not updated in a long while, as have been very busy with work, life etc., but my son and I did manage to put over 10000 Km on the Elf this past summer. Everything worked great, and we had no serious problems. The ceramic coated manifold is , in my mind, the way to go. It fits better than a header, is just as efficient for street use, and looks really neat.
Our plans for this winter are to tidy up the wiring harness a bit and make a stainless steel cam belt cover that will be easier to R/R for possible new cams and adjustable cam gears - open to suggestions on cam profiles/suppliers.

Cheers
Bob & Greg Jonah