Silver Fox Racer

[Richard]

I thought it was about time I put some pics up of my current build and hopefully entry in the 16V sprint & Hillclimb Championship.
Its old school, '68 shell (with Mk1 lights to confuse) running on 10" wheels and a rear subframe.
The engine is the 1600 K that used to be in my GTM coupe - D Andrews head, throttle bodies & solid cams.
I have spent the last 3 months on boring bodywork and front subframe - modifed mini. Last weekend it came back from the paint shop!

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02426.jpg

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02427.jpg

BTW Silver Fox refers to me and my lack of hair pigment, not the car.
I was 15 years old when this shell left the factory!

[Andy_S]

Hurrah!

The Mini looks very nice ..... low to the ground too ..... should be seriously competitive !!!!!!

& I'm really happy you're joining us, cos you can help me load the General on his trailer again when a mangle him :D

[Richard]

No problem Andy, I may need help recovering mine in the future. At least it proved your massive tow eye.
I may even get Miniwidow's name correct next time :oops:

[ludsonline]

Looking really good now its sprayed up.

[matt]

Looks very nice. Is that a removable standard length round nose front? If its removeable you have done a neat job on hiding the fixings. Keep us updated :)

[BATESPEED]

from one old bar steward to another, thats one mean looking mini :wink:

[Marcus Nordblom]

Super duper nice! Is that wets on it now?

[picKup]

Mat - Yes it is a removable front :)

And yes they are wets.

I think he is up to about 4 sets of wheels/ tyres!
normal road
Fast road
slicks
Wets


Mike

[gazwad]

looks good, reminds me of my old almond green mk1. i'd like to see some pics of the RWA midget, is it K series too?

[picKup]

looks good, reminds me of my old almond green mk1. i'd like to see some pics of the RWA midget, is it K series too?

yes, 1800 non VVC. Goes quite well! :)

[Marcus Nordblom]

I think he is up to about 4 sets of wheels/ tyres!
normal road
Fast road
slicks
Wets


pretty cool to have all sorts 8)

[wee man]

colour looks ace!

[garyshoose]

Agreed ^^^ colour is spot on 8)

[Richard]

Thanks for the positive coments, I love the colour, wife isn't quite so sure.
I must admit to an ebay mission finding half decent 10" wheels and tyres, ended up driving down to Bristol for the wets.
Of course Bridget the midget has a K, it joins the other 5 in the family (& 3 head gasket failures so far :? )
The midget conversion was a lot easier than a mini, but lots of cheque book engineering as a company specialise in the conversion. The fun part was copying some of their overpriced parts.
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC01498.jpg
Bridget with Mike's pickup
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC00464-1.jpg

[charlie_t]

company specialise in the conversion.
there is a company on the isle of white that tried the frogeyed sprite 1.6 and fiberglass body, i can't emember the name of them made about 50 of them though.

[Richard]

Not a great deal to show for lots of hours in the garage but the engine is back in.
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02442.jpg

I have made a new coolant outlet adapter which lowers the outlet by about 25mm making it easier to fit the MPI rad.
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02437.jpg

The gear linkage is now sorted but had to be fitted above the tunnel to clear the exhaust which is mounted high up - I have min ground clearance!
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02444.jpg

Suspension and brakes fitted but yet to sort out drive shafts and front flex hose positions.
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02443.jpg

Sorting out the fuel tank, pump and filters are under the boot floor. Hopefully with such a small tank I won't need a surge tank.
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02445.jpg

[charlie_t]

that out let is rather tasty gtm :) nice work

[picKup]

We have been playing in the garage today. Got the engine all wired in and it struck up first time......
Well once we connected the starter relay to earth as we have not yet wired in the 5as. The advantage of running the emerald ecu is that you can choose to use the 5as, that and seeing all the sensors working on the laptop before trying to start the car.

Dad came up with a good neat idea of using 5 way multicore cable to go from the engine bay to the dash area. It has kept the cableing very neat and tidy! Just have to label each multi so you know what circuits are on each one!

The water system is not yet connected so we can not run it for long but will try to get a vid up tom along with some updated pics.

Dad did almost get covered in petrol on the first crank as he had not connected the fuel return, he was stood directly inline with the fuel rail, but we got it stopped just in time, unfortunatly

Mike

[craig 1010cc]

That looks very nice, spot on in fact :D

[picKup]

Dad got the mini on all 4 wheels and was able to have a quick drive, but only on our private drive :D

Needs a bit of work still but at least she can move under her own power now, and stop!

We have decided the back end is a little too low! and the seat possition is a little odd as you can not see the bonnet enough!

We got some pics of it outside today while I was over in the pickup.
Mike

http://www.16vminiclub.com/gallery/albums/userpics/DSC00938_copy.JPG

http://www.16vminiclub.com/gallery/albums/userpics/DSC00941_copy.JPG

http://www.16vminiclub.com/gallery/albums/userpics/DSC00936_copy.JPG

[matt]

They both look super :) . The 10s will be intresting to see how they hold up with the power but the handling should be spot on, with the now lighter front end :lol: .

[Mintegra]

Agreed, both looks awesome... loving the Midget too, aside from helping me with my mini conversion my old man is building one similar.. He's got the 1.8vvc going in it... have you got any build pics of it??

Cheers
Chris

[evolotion]

looking lovely :)

[picKup]

There are many pics but he is trying to hard to get it built in time for the next sprint event in two weeks. So in a few weeks we will try to go through them and ut some more online.

He spent 2 days this weekend taking apart his new insignia to put a tow bar on! The cables had to run internally all the way to the fuse board so alot of the interior trim had to be removed! But it was either do that of pay VX about £400 for them to do the labour!
But if he had no tow bar it would be a long, LOUD drive in the mini the the events!

[Richard]

Its MOTed!!
Not without a few problems though. The starter decided to play up once I got to the garage - loose conection on the main feed inside the motor we think. The brand new motor cycle horn (light weight) did one beep then died so I got an advisory for intermittent fault. They were also not impressed with the ground clearance, the gearbox mount is only about 1" from the ground which made dropping into the brake rollers interesting. So that also was an advisory. Must rethink that mount.
A big debate between the owners/testers about the legality of the stick on number plate on the bonnet. The rule book was brought out and eventually it was decided that because of the age of the car, 1968, it would be OK. It was mentioned at one stage that if I could prove that I could get caught with a speed camera, they would be OK with the plate :shock:
The brakes are binding at bit so the master cylinder will be spaced up but it drives VERY NICE........................YES!!!!!!!!!!!

[ProjectMiniFire]

Awesome car. Where in N lincs are you?

[picKup]

Well the car is almost ready for the weekend so I am told!

It went to be log booked tonight and passed by the sounds of things! :)

http://www.16vminiclub.com/gallery/albums/userpics/DSC02491__1244068056_86_14_30_51.jpg

I just need to wire in the speedo gealer onFriday night when I get home so the speedo willread accuatly!

Oh and dad is based in the Brigg area.

[Andy_S]

Lightweight engine ..........

Low ride height .........

10' Wheels ...........

Slicks .........

Should be a seriously quick sprint car 8) 8) 8)

[Marcus Nordblom]

looks fantastic, very refined and uncluttered!

whats the sump ground clearance roughly?

[ProjectMiniFire]

Simply put, i love it! Thats pretty much how i want mine when funds allow, low ride height on 6 x 10 Wellers, when i can find one more, i only have 3. Anyone have one lying around?

Oh and i'm in Scunthorpe, just down the road really.

[Richard]

Thanks Andy but thats assuming the driver is any good! Its going to be straight out of the box for this weekend as I haven't had any time for setting it up apart from basic front tracking - thats my excuse in early.
Marcus, the sump clearance is approx 70mm but thats not the problem area. The Metro gearbox mount is about 40mm from the ground :oops:
Some development work required there.
Mr MiniFire, I'm in Scawby. Feel free to drop in some time - after this weekend.
Got my entry confirmed today, three in my class but the other two are a Radical and Alan!! Hoping for third in class.
Richard

[Andy_S]

Third place is certainly looking favourite there then :lol: :lol: :lol:

If you tell the scruteneers that actually you have an 1800 vvti in there then you'll be with me, Mark, Paul & a Juno racer thing. There's a good chance you could get second in our class :oops:

[Marcus Nordblom]

Marcus, the sump clearance is approx 70mm but thats not the problem area. The Metro gearbox mount is about 40mm from the ground

Similar to suzuki then, i have 5 cm when really slammed (after some tilting/raising of the engine), even trickier to solve because it´s the gear selector input area that is the lowest part :evil:

[ProjectMiniFire]

Richard,
Would love to pop up sometime and see this beast in the flesh! We'll have to arrange a date. Also are you going to the Normanby Hall Mini Day on the 21st of this month?

Luke

[Richard]

Long time, no update.
Just to prove that I have been working on the car (and spending money) here is a shot of my Gripper diff going into a spare gearbox. Settled on a 3.5 final drive ratio this time, last season was 3.7 but hopefully the new 1.8 will have a bit more torque.

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02536.jpg

Last weekend we went over to Leeds to pick up the mini from Tony Law's workshop. He has designed and built a new long primary manifold for me. Looks the business but is low - about 55mm clearance - must check my local test route for manhole covers!

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02541.jpg

[Mini fab]

Oh Man that is way way too low on a 10" set up. It's already a road scraper lol!

[matt]

Give this man a call for steel caged bearings for that box 07900958229

Also check drive shafts click in properly mine didn't and can nearly set on fire.

Also your car is looking nice :D

[peskett]

Mind if I ask what the manifold cost? Also is tony laws a company if so what's there contact number? Cheers

edit; found the company website wouldn't mind knowing what it cost though. Cheers

[Marcus Nordblom]

looks great! Is it 4-2-1?

[Purtsi]

Is there a possibility to chop say 30mm from the pipes and weld it back together to get it a bit higher?

[picKup]

Is there a possibility to chop say 30mm from the pipes and weld it back together to get it a bit higher?

That sure thats a good idea after spending cash to get a good manifold made up!

The primary use for the car is for sprints etc and not road so I am sure the ground clearance will be fine.

I would be interesting to see the performance differnence between the old butchered manifold and the new one, but there is always a cost and carnt be arsed factor for going back to a rolling road lots of times!

Mike

[Purtsi]

That sure thats a good idea after spending cash to get a good manifold made up!


I didn't say that would be the best option to do.. just an idea.. :rolleyes:

[Richard]

Yes Marcus its a 4 - 2 - 1, stretching almost back to the gearlever.

There is no way it could be higher as it is hugging the sump already. As Mike has mentioned ground clearance with this car is not really an issue. Its primary use is a racer that just happens to be road registered, its only done about 300 miles since last June, a lot of those must have been at the Barkston weekend:D The tracks we use seem to be good flat tarmac or concrete but I must make a mental note not to take a short cut over the grass island at the top of Olivers Mount ;)

Cost, not going to state figues in case my better half checks this but not cheap. Think on the lines of 3 or 4 good quality A series LCBs.

Matt, the diff is in the car and working. I did replace the first motion bearing with a metal cage item from a bearing stockist. The circlips were an issue as I couldn't get the shafts in the diff at first. Spoke to John @ Gripper who assured me that the groves were fitted and they had tried Rover shafts in it. Eventually used new circlips, bloody tight but still not confident the passenger (short) side has located correctly.

[Andy_S]

Yikes! .............. You're taking this far too seriously, ;)

New cammed engine, Tuned manifolds & gripper LSD's, next thing we know you'll be showing off a new set of sticky Hoosiers & fitting lightweight panels where all those nice steel ones used to be !

And there's me thinking I've made decent improvements by fitting new plug leads. :D

[Richard]

Yikes! .............. You're taking this far too seriously, ;)

next thing we know you'll be showing off a new set of sticky Hoosiers & fitting lightweight panels where all those nice steel ones used to be !

And there's me thinking I've made decent improvements by fitting new plug leads. :D

Got to get my Dunlops working first although I believe the other green mini (with a pink trailer) may be sporting Hoosiers.
Lightweight panels? no way, us road registered boys like a bit of steel.
Just plug leads? Didn't I read that you were after a lot more revs this year?

[Andy_S]

Didn't I read that you were after a lot more revs this year?

That's for next year .......... or if I break the engine that's currently in the car. Got the ACL bearings on order & crank will be balanced in the next week or so. :D

[ludsonline]

Have you got any more pictures of that manifold?. It does look good.

[Richard]

I've managed to escape into the garage for a few days and my new engine is now built. Its a 1.8 borrowed from my Midget.

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02572.jpg

Slightly worn Omega pistons with circlip groves machined and bushed VHPD rods giving fully floating gugeon pins. New liners were used and new Rover graded mains and big end shells - lots of little carboard boxes.

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02570.jpg

Block after it had been through the dishwasher;) New shells fitted.

Forgot to take any more photos whilst building the engine up but the piston circlips were little buggers until I sussed how they went in.
I had tapered the bore of an old liner in the lathe and it made the best ring compesser I have ever used.

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02574.jpg

Yesterday I managed to get the cams (Piper SLR 500 full race) timed up. A little different to timing an A series cam!
It turns over quite easy at 25 NM, with plugs out, so hopefully it will be OK. Just got to fit it now and get ready for a R Road session at Emerald.

[Marcus Nordblom]

Wish i had engine skills, looks very nice! 180hp when done?

[Richard]

Wish i had engine skills, looks very nice! 180hp when done?

I suppose, being realistic, yes. When you spend an awfull lot of time and money on an engine you are always hoping for more. I have been hoping for 190 but anyway it should be more than the 165 I got with a 1600 with the same head and hopefully more torque which is prob more important. Different rollers show different figures but the main thing I'm after at Emerald is an ideal setup from guys who know how the ECU works (the last RR operator didn't :( )
With the pistons and rods I should be able to rev it safely up to 8K although I never have time to look at the tacho when competing, just rely on the limiter.
R

[Andy_S]

Not fair, 190 horsies is more than you need to beat us mere mortals :p

[picKup]

you got it running yet? Time for a video on You tube when you have,

Be good to see one of it on the Rollers also!

[picKup]

Well he should be half way to Norwich at the min ready to go to emerald tom morning for the RR.

I am stuck in Leicester so have not seen the new engine going yet, but dad says it is VERY powerful, and that was on a completly wrong map!

Hopefully he will remember to take a vid for us to watch later tom.

Mike

[picKup]

Just had a call from dad. So far they have seen 160bhp at the Wheels, thats about 190 at the fly.

Dave says there is still some more to come!

[Marcus Nordblom]

Just had a call from dad. So far they have seen 160bhp at the Wheels, thats about 190 at the fly.

Dave says there is still some more to come!

Holy shit! Will go like stink:cool:

[picKup]

There on the way home now.

Final figure being 207.6BHP at the Flywheel with 149.5 torque!

Hopefully he will have a graph to upload later!

Just needs to get geometry sorted again as appartly it was handling a little off to say the least, but the nose was 2" higher to ensur ehe got on the rollers ok!

[evolotion]

thats super meaty stuff! well done :)

[Richard]

thats super meaty stuff! well done :)
Thanks Dennis but it's still nowhere near yours

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/minidynorun2.jpg

That was fun.
Emerald started out by checking the cam timing, which was spot on - reassuring. They were concerned about the size of the mpi mini rad but with a 3' dia fan blowing straight at it an infra red heat gun proved that it was well up to the job.
Then followed many mapping runs, I hated the sound of the engine on full throttle under load at low revs but Dave Walker said it was normal.
Then it was on to the power runs, first was showing 160, I thought bugger thats not a lot, seems it was at the wheels ;) After several runs we were over 200 (flywheel)
Then after noticing the tyres were cooking, some gripper spray was added and we wound up indicating 207.6 bhp @ 7979.
Dave was also impressed with the flattish torque line which is prob more important than the bragging rights of the bhp figures.
All in all a good day and nothing broke :kseries:

[Andy_S]

Seems like a perfect result there Richard :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

207 horsies @ 8k is going to make for one seriously fast little Mini, looks like Allan's FWD time up Ollies Mount might be at risk, I think he ran a low 47 or high 46 secs ........

I can't wait to see all the new machines in action this year :)

[Richard]

I left my camera at Emerald but I'm holding one of their Snapon spanners as ransom!
A couple of shots from my phone though.

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/12032010.jpg

One for our championship sponser ;) The day release lad making the tyres even more sticky.

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/12032010002.jpg

Dave Walker falling to sleep after his exertions.

[matt]

Thats a good result mate. ROVER POWER!!!

[gazwad]

nice results, k series is such a tuneable motor! out of interest what is the engine spec?

has the mpi rad prooved to be enough to keep it cool? - mine was stuggling to keep the temperature down on hot days or idling for more than 10 mins, might be that it is too high and out of the cool airflow, i've got a bigger micra rad to try but it doesn't package as nicely as the mpi one...

[Richard]

Thanks Gaz :D

The current spec is:-
Head flowed as Dave Andrews web page with 29.5 & 26mm Ivey valves, porting checked & finished by Dave.
Piper valve spring steel caps, double springs & solid followers.
Piper ARC1227 (SLR 500) cams
Omega pistons (second hand, slightly scuffed, from Dave)
VHPD con rods with fully floating gudgeon pins
Tony Laws (Leeds) long 4 - 2 -1 exhaust manifold. Maniflow 2 box straight through system
Jenvey DTH throttle bodies
Emerald ECU

Gearbox - R65U 3.5 final drive Gripper plate LSD

My MPi rad is stuggling a little too, showing mostly about 100 deg c. As a sprint car this is not really a problem but on the road if I got stuck in traffic it could be embarrassing. Emerald thought they had seen bigger oil coolers!

Shame about your head, I know how much work goes into modifying them. Its scary stuff when you go through a waterway even though its bunged up with alloy rod.
Richard

[Richard]

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02596.jpg

OK I'm a wimp but with over 200 bhp, a plate type LSD and 165 x 10" tyres it is quite a handfull!
The power steering from a MG TF doesn't solve the problem of "oh my god why am I on the wrong side of the road" type torque steer but it makes it easier to control, ;)

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02595.jpg

I recon the weight penalty over a standard column to be about 3 kg - well worth it.
What really appealed to the geek in me whilst wiring it up was the tacho tell-tale of the Emerald would fool it to operating when the engine wasn't started.
Also the speedo tell-tale of the speedo healer could be used to prove that the assistance from the power steering was less at speed.

I may have to tidy the wiring up now.
R

[Andy_S]

What really appealed to the geek in me whilst wiring it up was the tacho tell-tale of the Emerald would fool it to operating when the engine wasn't started.
Also the speedo tell-tale of the speedo healer could be used to prove that the assistance from the power steering was less at speed.

I may have to tidy the wiring up now.
R

I know these words are in English, but WTF are you saying?

And power steering is considered cheating, so best you don't tell us that you've got it. ;)

Are you at Barky Heath on Sunday coming?

[picKup]

I know these words are in English, but WTF are you saying?

And power steering is considered cheating, so best you don't tell us that you've got it. ;)

Are you at Barky Heath on Sunday coming?
Andy hope this helps!!!

The emerald ECU on the car has a tacho tell tale feature. IE turn ignition on but not engine, wait 3 seconds, the rev counter will then shoot up to the highest previous recorded rpm.

The power steering uses the tacho signal to recognise that the engine is running. You would not want the EPAS on with out the engine/charging due to power useage of the motor.

So when you turn on the ignition, but not engine, once the tell tale feature kicks in to show the max rpm, the EPAS comes live!

The speedo uses an electronic speedo not an old mechanical cable. To recalibreate the seedo due to wheel/gearbox differences, a black box is used, a "speedo healer". One feature of this unit is it also records the top speed reached during that drive. THen at the press of button when the car is stood still the speedo will fly round to your max speed.

The EPAS is deisinged to reduce assisted power at speed with max assist when going at Very low speed.


To test this feature, drive car fast, to road maximums!, park up but keep engine going, then keep turning wheel lock to lock, now press the max speed button and try again. As dad noticed with the max speed button pressed the assist went down.

And yes he will be at Barky I should hopefully be popping accross to watch!

And just becuase you dont understand a technology does not mean its cheating!!!! :-)

[PaulW]

OK I'm a wimp but with over 200 bhp, a plate type LSD and 165 x 10" tyres it is quite a handfull!


Yes you are!:D

But cheers for that as ive got about the same bhp and on 10's but ive got mahoooosive tyres:D

Barky is going to be fun as i havn't a clue how the car will feel:?

Paul

[Andy_S]

Andy hope this helps!!!

Bla Bla Bla ..........

And yes he will be at Barky I should hopefully be popping accross to watch!

And just becuase you dont understand a technology does not mean its cheating!!!! :-)

Nice one Mike, I understand what you've described there. :D Just because I've never used fancy technology doesn't mean I don't understand it, you just need to use little words & speak slowly. ;)

Just to clarify my comments on cheating, your Dad's already far too quick without driver aids so anything he adds to make him quicker is cheating. :razz:

See ya both over at Barky on Sunday .... should be fun.

[Andy_S]

Yes you are!:D

But cheers for that as ive got about the same bhp and on 10's but ive got mahoooosive tyres:D



We've got ATB diff's which aren't as grabby as plate types, so Richard's probably taking a load of spare underpants for testing while he gets the car's balance sorted. :twisted:

[Richard]

Just to clarify my comments on cheating, your Dad's already far too quick without driver aids so anything he adds to make him quicker is cheating. :razz:

As my wife frequently mentions, I am not getting an younger and need all the aids available ;)
I have added loads more castor (got to go back to my friendly alignment shop to get the figures) and the steering effort, especially with slicks was bicep buildingly high.
Paul, a quick run with my little slicks proved to be so much better than the 165s, so your road roller type Hoosier tyres should be the business.

I see all our entries for Barky are confirmed on the RAF forum, just no details on how and when to enter the airfield :confused:

[PaulW]

where did you see on the RAF forum that they had confirmed the entry Richard?

Paul

[matt]

My Diff was bad for swapping sides of road but after about 500 mile its easied off alot. I think im going to go the MGTF power steering route because i don't like the changing gear bit with one hand on the wheel with the Gripper Diff.

[Richard]

where did you see on the RAF forum that they had confirmed the entry Richard?

Paul

Paul, you have a pm

[Richard]

My Diff was bad for swapping sides of road but after about 500 mile its easied off alot. I think im going to go the MGTF power steering route because i don't like the changing gear bit with one hand on the wheel with the Gripper Diff.

Thanks Matt, mine has only done about 250 miles so hopefully it should free off a bit. Any idea what torque setting yours was? This one is "competition spec"
The TF column is really easy to fit, we've done two now - the racer and Mike's pickup. Basically the EPAS column can be left full length and just shorten the lower shaft with the UJs. One problem however is finding a non airbag steering wheel, I had to savage a MGF wheel for the splined section and sleeve it into a Mountny boss.
The MPI mini stalks, steering lock and column surround all fit nicely.
R

[matt]

Not sure about torque setting but i asked them to set it for road/competition so not sure.
Ill look into power steering ready for barkstone heath.

[Richard]

Just a quick update. In an effort to control the rollypolly handling I have fitted a Minispares race rear roll bar. The bar pivot blocks are supposed to be bolted to the edge of the subframe but I welded drilled and tapped mounting plates so that the blocks would sit square

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02606.jpg

I was going to make my own and now having seen just what simple engineering is involved I may make another and offer this one for sale.

What does it feel like? Fantastic :D on my test roundabout it handles like a kart. However the big test will be Ollies Mount in August.
R

[Andy_S]

Nice one :)

No more Vauxhall beats Rover from here on in :(

Now all you need are some 'helper' coilovers up front & all the body roll be gone .............. ;)

[fra-mini]

hi matey, spoke to you at oli's mount (i pester'd you to look at the subby youve made)

heres a link to the boss kits for the steering wheel i was telling you about

http://rallynuts.com/motorsport/MOMO_Steering_Boss_Kits_1904/Momo_Steering_Boss_Kit_MGF_1611.asp

they also make a really small momo steering wheel (280mm irrc) :D

[Spiyda]

I have fitted a Minispares race rear roll bar.

Richard,

Trying to figure out the pic..

In the pic it looks like the lever is bolted to the radius arm..
but that wouldn't work...

so I am guessing that the shiny bolt near the brake plate is connected to a drop link ?

Even so, it looks almost as if the lever will foul the radius arm when the suspension moves up...

I need to register with minispares to have a gander at the instructions...

Chris

[PaulW]

Richard,


In the pic it looks like the lever is bolted to the radius arm..
but that wouldn't work...


Even so, it looks almost as if the lever will foul the radius arm when the suspension moves up...


Chris

obviously it does work as Richard has been out for a test drive and said it handles fantastic:D

Paul

[PaulW]

Nice one :)

No more Vauxhall beats Rover from here on in :(


Well i just bought an accelerator pedal enlarger so that has got to worth 2 sec's at least:D Or we will have to wait until Laurence gets used to Stella to beat him:D or me for that matter:rolleyes:

Paul

[Andy_S]

Well i just bought an accelerator pedal enlarger (ie a block of wood) so that has got to be worth 2 sec's at least:D Or we will have to wait until Laurence gets used to Stella to beat him:D or me for that matter:rolleyes:

Paul

............ & you guys have got power steering now too, so that's gotta be worth a few tenths.

Hurrah for the Vauxhall powered Minis ........ all is not lost yet.

[Oz]

Richard,

Trying to figure out the pic..

In the pic it looks like the lever is bolted to the radius arm..
but that wouldn't work...

so I am guessing that the shiny bolt near the brake plate is connected to a drop link ?

Even so, it looks almost as if the lever will foul the radius arm when the suspension moves up...

I need to register with minispares to have a gander at the instructions...

Chris

I've fitted one of these to mine whilst subframe was off car, I hope pic below helps :D

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm115/Ozinjersey/RearSubframeDryBuild3.jpg

[Andy_S]

I've fitted one of these to mine whilst subframe was off car, I hope pic below helps :D

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm115/Ozinjersey/RearSubframeDryBuild3.jpg

Your radius arm & ARB link arm are opposing each other in this pic and this will effectively lock everything in position. Surely the set-up needs an extra link in there so that the changing lengths of radius arm & ARB Arm can be independant of each other. Unless there a big rubber bush hidden somewhere in the system then this layout will eventually cause something to fatigue & snap ....... :(

[mininut]

Your radius arm & ARB link arm are opposing each other in this pic and this will effectively lock everything in position. Surely the set-up needs an extra link in there so that the changing lengths of radius arm & ARB Arm can be independant of each other. Unless there a big rubber bush hidden somewhere in the system then this layout will eventually cause something to fatigue & snap ....... :(

good spot, you should be a gynaecologist :D

[evolotion]

theres a black bushed drop link here, or am i missing something?

[PaulW]

theres a black bushed drop link here, or am i missing something?

Yep i can see a black drop link as well on the end of the adjustable flat bar bit.

Paul

[mininut]

Yep i can see a black drop link as well on the end of the adjustable flat bar bit.

Paul

ah, i see it. maybe my corrective surgery needs some "enhancement" :oops:

[Andy_S]

theres a black bushed drop link here, or am i missing something?

Ah you're right :oops:

I couldn't see it on my screen cos the contrast was very black. The black drop link looks like part of the rear flange of the radius arm from where I'm sitting.

[Oz]

I did actually wonder whether the drop link was not too visible when I was looking at pic but its the only decent one I had showing the whole set up but maybe this one might help ?

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm115/Ozinjersey/Rearsubframedrybuild1.jpg

Again not greatly clear but its another angle :confused:

[Oz]

PS Sorry Richard for slightly hijacking your build thread :oops:

[Richard]

Another shot, hopefully showing a drop link - two 5/16" rose joints.
I don't like the idea of using hose clips to locate the bar and I will have to think of a more "engineered" solution. Some grease nipples on the blocks would be good as well.

If I make my own, what grade of steel do I use for the main round bar? - its 20mm dia.

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02609.jpg

[Oz]

Those droplinks look a so much better solution than the ones I had supplied with my kit :shock:. Are they standard with the kit or did you make them ?

[Richard]

Those droplinks look a so much better solution than the ones I had supplied with my kit :shock:. Are they standard with the kit or did you make them ?

The drop links are just a male and a female rose joint (from McGill Motorsport) screwed together.

Over the last weekend at Barky Heath the engine developed a quite considerable oil leak from the bellhousing. So the engine has had to come out for an investigation. On removing the flywheel it was quite obvious that the crank shaft seal (its a big bugger) had popped out by about 2mm at the bottom. A few emails to Dave Andrews confirmed this was a common problem and easily fixed by screwing the flange of the seal to the block.
As I had got this far it seemed rude not to renew the seal anyway even though it is only 6 months old, so a LandRover item was bought together with new flywheel bolts.
The new seal was fitted with a smear of silicon then 3 holes drilled and tapped 3mm. The cap screws shown in the pic were later found to be mighty close to the flywheel so the heads were ground down a little :p

The bearing in the middle of the crank is from when the engine was fitted in our Midget.

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/oilseal.jpg

[Richard]

OK, i wrote a long speel last night, pressed the wrong button and lost it.
So heres the quicky version -
Took air filter off to clean it and found an air horn bolt lying inside - phew :D


http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/bolt-1.jpg

All bolts now threadlocked

[picKup]

That was lucky!

[Andy_S]

Get the lottery on at once !!!!!

[bhphunter]

Good find Richard!

I lost an inlet manifold bolt down the back the other day and still havent found it yet. Hoping its not fallen into the big space at the back in beside the flywheel :-?


Your car is looking a great and such an inspiration! :cool:


David.

[pickmeup]

Richard just noticed on your thread you have a rear disc setup using what looks like honda rear calipers? Im looking at doing something similar on mine, have you got any details on this?
Gaz

[Richard]

Richard just noticed on your thread you have a rear disc setup using what looks like honda rear calipers? Im looking at doing something similar on mine, have you got any details on this?
Gaz

Hi Gaz
Nothing as fancy as rear disks on mine. I think you must have seen a pic of Oz's rear subframe when we were discussing rear AR bars.

[Pete_H]

Richard just noticed on your thread you have a rear disc setup using what looks like honda rear calipers? Im looking at doing something similar on mine, have you got any details on this?
Gaz

They are pics from Oz's build with the rear disks.

Nice build btw richard :)

Edit: Oh you already said :s

[pickmeup]

ah ok, will have to pop over and look at his build :)

[peskett]

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02596.jpg

OK I'm a wimp but with over 200 bhp, a plate type LSD and 165 x 10" tyres it is quite a handfull!
The power steering from a MG TF doesn't solve the problem of "oh my god why am I on the wrong side of the road" type torque steer but it makes it easier to control, ;)

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02595.jpg

I recon the weight penalty over a standard column to be about 3 kg - well worth it.
What really appealed to the geek in me whilst wiring it up was the tacho tell-tale of the Emerald would fool it to operating when the engine wasn't started.
Also the speedo tell-tale of the speedo healer could be used to prove that the assistance from the power steering was less at speed.

I may have to tidy the wiring up now.
R

Few questions about the PAS if you don't mind,
Where are you taking the signal for the speed sensor and is the rest of the wiring fairly basic?
Was it just a case of shorterning the uj section and some custom mounts to mount the column?
Do you reckon I'd need it in a 160vv with 10" wheels!

[picKup]

Speed Signal:
We use the Rover Speed sensor which goes directly on the gearbox, where a speddo cable used to go. This signal then gets calibrated in a speedo healer to correct for different sized wheel. Then goes to the EPAS ECU and the Speedo unit.

Is there a need???

I have the 160VVC in the pickup with 13" starmags with EPAS. I love the EPAS and would now not be without it.
Did I manage before, yes!

Dad has 200BHP with 10" and the Gripper LSD and has the EPAS fitted. I dont think he would remove it.
Adding the Gripper LSD definatly made the EPAS a requirement. It was just too snatchy without it!

The EPAS feels to easy to start with but you get used to it very quickley!

[peskett]

Speed Signal:
We use the Rover Speed sensor which goes directly on the gearbox, where a speddo cable used to go. This signal then gets calibrated in a speedo healer to correct for different sized wheel. Then goes to the EPAS ECU and the Speedo unit.

Is there a need???

I have the 160VVC in the pickup with 13" starmags with EPAS. I love the EPAS and would now not be without it.
Did I manage before, yes!

Dad has 200BHP with 10" and the Gripper LSD and has the EPAS fitted. I dont think he would remove it.
Adding the Gripper LSD definatly made the EPAS a requirement. It was just too snatchy without it!

The EPAS feels to easy to start with but you get used to it very quickley!

cheers for that, Would you happen to have a link to the speedo healer you used?

[picKup]

http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

It is a very simple unit designed mainly for bikes, but works well in the minis. We both have them.
They have a nice little feature where they remember the top speed reached during that run.

[Richard]

Few questions about the PAS if you don't mind,
Where are you taking the signal for the speed sensor and is the rest of the wiring fairly basic?
Was it just a case of shorterning the uj section and some custom mounts to mount the column?
Do you reckon I'd need it in a 160vv with 10" wheels!

I think Mike has covered most of your questions but just a point about shortening the UJ section. It contains a splined telescopic bit which needs to be chopped down, trouble is the splines are covered in plastic which becomes fragile when hacked around and subjected to welder heat - I had to buy a second one :rolleyes:
Get the column and ECU from the same car.
Make the mount quite hefty, there is a lot of torque going into it. I took it across to the wheel arch to gain leverage.
If you get a TF column you have the option of making it tiltable as on Mikes pickup.
Originally I didn't like the EPAS as there is some lack of steering feedback but now I'm adicted and with my LSD, large caster angles and slicks I think its essential :p
Richard

[Add_Gee]

Can I ask what pedal box you are using please?

[Richard]

Can I ask what pedal box you are using please?

Nothing fancy, just the standard mini item. Its one of the few original bits on the car - it must be 43 years old now !!
R

[Add_Gee]

Ah, i was thinking this was a k-series subframe, my mistake :)

[Richard]

After 3 years of abuse something has broken, the nearside driveshaft :(

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02794.jpg

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02796.jpg

I have considered billet shafts but because of the need to getting running again for the track day and the next Barky Heath round I have decided to have a go at at making my own cut & shut shaft - this one was made by Aband. To be fair the sleeved joint is perfectly fine, its just the only mini component in the drive chain that has failed.

I cut the shaft in half through the sleeve with an angle grinder and machined the old sleeve away, which was a good tight fit on the shaft.
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02797.jpg

A spare mini shaft was then cut and again machined.
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr124/gtmkouope/DSC02798.jpg

Hopefully get the sleeve bored tomorrow.

[kcchan]

It's great to see that the sleeve has held out.

[Andy_S]

After 3 years of abuse something has broken, the nearside driveshaft :(

I have considered billet shafts but because of the need to getting running again for the track day and the next Barky Heath round I have decided to have a go at at making my own cut & shut shaft - this one was made by Aband. To be fair the sleeved joint is perfectly fine, its just the only mini component in the drive chain that has failed.


Crikey Richard, that really is impressive cos the welded shafts are meant to be weak, yet you've shoved lots of torque through yours on slick tyres & they've held for ages. :cool:

Aband's work is/was clearly to a very high standard, but I'm sure yours will be too.

[Richard]

Crikey Richard, that really is impressive cos the welded shafts are meant to be weak, yet you've shoved lots of torque through yours on slick tyres & they've held for ages. :cool:

Aband's work is/was clearly to a very high standard, but I'm sure yours will be too.

Thanks Andy, I'm getting a few tips from Chris (Spiyda) regarding the sleeving.
The shafts have been known to break with an A series so I guess I have been lucky so far. The Monte shafts have no rear circlip groove, where this one failed. However looking at the amount of twist in the splines it would have failed anyway.
The rear wheel drive car could be interesting though, with hopefully more traction but then again the CV joint doesn't have to steer. I have Chris on standby for some billet shafts :p

[evolotion]

my shafts failed in the same way buddy, twisted and eventually sheard through the circlip groove. ended up getting billet shafts made with no circlip groove to sort it, weird looking things but they worked a treat.

my R65 - mini shafts are sitting about if you want to measure yours up and if there suitable im willing to part with them for some fundage, keep meaning to measure them and get them up for sale.

[Richard]

Denis, you have a pm. :p