Another one hopefully.

[kcchan]

After wanting to do a conversion for a while and waiting for a donor car to come up, today I picked this up.

Mk2 Swift GTi, done 66k odd. Apparently a Japanese import. Ill get a-stripping it tomorrow.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00098-1.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00099-1.jpg

Me not being that familiar with engines, will have lots of questions to ask so hopefully you'll be able to help. But I love Minis and mechanics and a challenge. I've already done afew bits in anticipation of the donor car.

The lucky mini, waitng for its new Japanese heart.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/25122007074.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00126.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00124.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00123.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00122.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00121.jpg

Rust on door
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00132.jpg

Interior lined with acoustic carpet
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00145.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00144.jpg

Wheels primed and painted
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00194.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00197.jpg

Lights mocked up
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00064.jpg

Plates welded in
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00063.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00062.jpg

Centre console welded in
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00087.jpg

Wiper holes welded and filled
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00088.jpg

Now for afew questions: wheres the best place to get swift Gti spares? The manifold will need replacing and Im finding it hard sourcing spares.

[Purtsi]

Good looking starting point for a project :) Good luck with the build 8)

Most of the parts can be found secondhand from various forums (teamswift, redlinegti and ofcourse here).

the shops that sell new parts are:

-BD motorsports in australia
-suzukiRD in usa
-Adaptronic in NL

These are the shops that i know, if anyone knows more of them, please add :)

[miniswift]

Hi,

Welcome to forum, I hope we can help you.

First of all, I think your car looks like UKDM not Jap import.
If it was JDM, you will have different intake manifold and most likely have tubular exhaust manifold.

Anyhow, you still got low millage pocket rocket with 105 Bhp std.

What manifold are you talking about?
You better off keeping std exhaust manifold due to very good design as well as compactness for our project. I have been told that std cast iron manifold is very good design and it will only lose 2bhp top end compares to after market ones. This info is from one of top G13B(Swift engine) tuner.

Good luck.
Atchi

[kcchan]

oh ok, I wanted to replace the exhaust manifold because it seemed quite rusty. Ill try cleaning it to see if it is worth replacing.

Thanks for the info guys.

[kcchan]

Afew updates.

I seem to have done things in a very random order but hey.

Removed tank and plonked into place:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00160.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00159.jpg

Ok so 4 "holes" 1 will be fuel into tank, 1 will be a breather so presssure doesnt build up, 1 will be going to the fuel and am I right in guessing the other that goes to the front of the tank is a return for any excess fuel that doesnt get used by the engine?

Stripping for loom:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00165.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00166.jpg

Some engine bay stripping:

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00167.jpg

Ok now, Im pretty sure that there is a pipe going from the brake servo to the engine and I can't think logically what it is for or what it is so; what is it? I think in the pictures its got a braided cover on it to the right of the injector rail. It seems to go into the back of the engine.

[kcchan]

Also decided to put the swift seats in instead of bucket. Will get pics another day.

[tomfc]

Mate your making good progress on this :-) what subframe are you going to use?

Im going to pick up a metro subframe next week, so i can start work on makeing a subframe to take a k-series lump lol.

[kcchan]

Ill be using the standard mini subframe and then make my own. My friend gave me 24ft worth of box section steel for free so I dont really have anything to lose.

Will the K series be going into the Snot?

[kcchan]

Seats mocked up:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00171.jpg

Rot monster:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00172.jpg

Engine out:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00184-1.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00182-1.jpg

Another question: Im not using a brake servo so what do I do with the inlet on the injector rail? Put a breather on it? Or do I have to use a servo with the stock fuel system?

[speedy]

the outlet on the manifold ? you can just plug it.

[kcchan]

Oh thanks.

Started on the fram a couple of days ago:
Only very roughly in place:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00200.jpg

As far as i got as I ran out of cutting discs:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00201.jpg

Didnt get round to bracing the other side today.

[kcchan]

Almost done on the subframe. Just needs to be finally welded, lower arm mount welding, cleaning and painting.

Also bought a curley front to check it would all fit.


http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00275.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00274.jpg

[kcchan]

subby finished

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00299.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00300.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00301.jpg

[crewesmissilesrob]

im not wanting to critisice but id like a bit more strength on the subbie
ive broken an allspeed frame and it was tough i still managed to make a right mess of it

looks a little bit thin

[Mini Vlatko]

im not wanting to critisice but id like a bit more strength on the subbie
ive broken an allspeed frame and it was tough i still managed to make a right mess of it

looks a little bit thin

You took the words out of my keyboard!

[miniswift]

Hi,

I think it may be a bit on the weak side, too.
Are they 1"(25mm) tubes?
You have many square tubes which has been cut and weld.
If you cut slit in them and bend them then weld, they are stronger.... I think.

It is better to have them over engineered.

Cheers
Atchi

[boots]

What are those wheels you have sprayed up, they look really nice??

[miniswift]

Isn't that Weller wheels?
They came with 5" and 6" wide for 10" wheels.
They are steel whells and they made motor sports version as well.

Cheers
Atchi

[luke]

Isn't that Weller wheels?
They came with 5" and 6" wide for 10" wheels.
They are steel whells and they made motor sports version as well.

Cheers
Atchi

They sure are weller wheels :D
I have a set of the motorsport type

Luke :D

Projects looking good mate as i have said on TMF :D :wink:

[kcchan]

Hmmm. What size box section should I be using? Its better that you advised me now than I found out on my own. I got the 25mmx2mm free from a friend anyway.

Yea there 10x6 wellers.

[miniswift]

Hi,

I thought you will be needing to use 3mm thick not 2mm.
May be double it up and weld side by side, if you know what I mean.
I used 50x25x3mm thick wall, then again mine is over engineered.

Cheers
Atchi

[kcchan]

So you mean two pieces of box welded to kinda make up your size box section?

Thanks.

[miniswift]

Hi,

I think so and try not cut all 4 sides.
If you cut 3 side/slot and bend it to weld, I think it will be stronger.

I think you better off doing it since you are using 2mm thickness wall tubes.

Cheers
Atchi

[kcchan]

Hm abit of a dilema now. I just got the vernier calipers out and it turns out the box section is 3mm not 2mm like my friend said who gave it to me. So im going to strengthen it some more still but where should it go? I was going to redo the front so that it looks abit like Andys (spNOam) and I was going to add in braces around the driveshafts anyway. What else would you recommend or would that be enough? Other than those two thing I cant see it being much different/weaker than the other subbys on here.

[kcchan]

Started strengthening but Im not finished as I havent got any box section atm. Just some braces but:

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00324-1.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00322.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m180/kcchan_2006/DSC00323-1.jpg

Do you guys think the double box section on the front will be enough? Im going to redo the two front mounts while Im at it.

[99fusion]

hmm don't mean to be harsh but i'm a bit concerned about the usefulness/strength of that bendy bit you've welded on. I can see its purpose (avoiding flex below the suspension mounts and supporting the tower) but due to it's shape and the way it's positioned, a vertical axial force can bend/straighten that pretty easy. Ideally u'd need something a bit like this (or other variations along the same idea - this is just a crude drawing to show what i mean) to resist the bending forces...

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/305/bracketyg7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/bracketyg7.jpg/1/w639.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img139/bracketyg7.jpg/1/)

Keep on cracking! :) Wish I could be at your stage :(

[kcchan]

I am thankful for your concern but alot of the other Swift subframes have also simply just used a bent bar as a brace and theirs seem to be fine.

[Richspec]

I am thankful for your concern but alot of the other Swift subframes have also simply just used a bent bar as a brace and theirs seem to be fine.

But you've used flat PLATE, no way in hell is that strong or safe.
Do it once and do it right, don't come bleating on here when it fails sending you into the wall or oncoming traffic. :shock:

Harsh...but true.

[kcchan]

I appreciate what your saying. The braces are made from 4mm steel bars not the 2mm sheet the subframes resting on. Do you think it still needs to be thicker? Or are there any other suggestions for what I can replace it with? Ie something like what 99fusion suggested?

[miniswift]

Hi,

You could use angle steels.
You can buy 25mm angle with 3mm thickness.
It may not be strong for twist but it will be better than 4mm steel plate.

Cheers
Atchi

[Aband]

my vauxhall frame has nothing there at all. dur to the gear box being in the way.

[kcchan]

Not been posting here much but have done afew things.

Had another attempt at making a subframe which is much better made than the last two attempts.
Havent got the rad or alternator mounted yet though.

Got some nice SS miglia style brace bars made up by Aband on here.
Thanks chappie

Also almost done doing my Fiesta calliper conversion aswell.

Half way through replacing my A panels aswell.

No pics at the moment but I will get some soon.

[spNOam]

Over 7000 miles of pretty solid driving and my subframe is not giving me any problems.
Had a bit of a problem getting the castor angles right when I was setting up the suspension but all sorted now, before you finally weld the towers it would be a dood idea to make sure the holes in the towers are equal, mabe putting a length of bar through each tower and measuring like you would if you were doing the tracking, this will ensure the top mounts end up in the right place. Just my 2p worth.

[kcchan]

How do you mean?

Ive completely started again with a new mini subframe I got free from a friend, I braced everything before I started cutting so everything should be in the same place.

Also has anyone got any advice on modding the gear shift?

Thanks

[spNOam]

Mini subframes were never the straightest from the factory :? to get the castor angles right you need to ensure the top arm pins are exactly parallel to each other :wink: If you have the frame in a jig or have not yet completed the bracing, the towers can be massaged until the the top arm pins are square to the towers and parallel before finally welding up. Yours may be straight to start with but worth a check to make sure.
Gear linkages were easy, cut in half, connect everything up, little tweak may be needed with a pipe bender (plumbers type) to line everything up & get clearance where needed, mark & cut overall length, weld up & refit, there is some adjustment on the swift gear lever mounting, make sure the lever is out of the way of your knee at this can be a pita.

[kcchan]

Ah I see now. I got some adjustable tie bars ages ago so that should be able to overcome any slight skewness of the subframe.

Thanks for the advice.

[miniswift]

Hi,

This should be in build diary not here.
Ask admin to move it for you.

We want pics :wink: !

Cheers
Atchi

[Pete_H]

For gearlinkage

1. Chop it in half
2. Insert a a piece of metal tube the right diameter into the hollow tube
3. Mount gearstick
4. Adjust gearlinkage to right length
5. Weld it up.

We didnt need to bend ours atall....It all depends on how far left or right you mount the engine tho.

Works a treat :)

[kcchan]

Ill get pics soon its just too cold and the mini is outside on a driveway at the moment.

[kcchan]

Afew pics of recentish progress.

http://i40.tinypic.com/f2szvd.jpg

Should be enough clearance:
http://i41.tinypic.com/af7cl0.jpg
New filter will be on the cards as I bashed this one abit.

http://i40.tinypic.com/2lleef9.jpg

A cat has to be like 1/3hp right?
http://i44.tinypic.com/2lbnsxl.jpg

Rough position for brace bars:
http://i42.tinypic.com/zb8xy.jpg

Just plonked on to check it mostly fitted lol
http://i39.tinypic.com/s0zh5i.jpg

Just enough cut away methinks:
http://i40.tinypic.com/2n6t6ja.jpg

Now I still need to modify one of the mounts slightly and work on the alternator and radiator mounts. Also my new mini cvs should get here soon for my fiesta caliper conversion.

Now one of my concerns is engine rocking when its running as its abit tight in some places but hopefully it wont be too bad. Stiffer engine mounts and maybe adding a remote oil filter if necessary should solve it though.

[Allan McD]

I think the Cat will need to be on steroids to make 1/3 of a h/p :shock:
Allan

[kcchan]

Yea I think I was abit optomistic......

[kcchan]

Ive tried looking but couldnt really find anything.

Im going to be running the fiesta caliper conversion (which I have pretty much finished) and drums. Now Im going to relocate the MC to inside the car but dont know what bore to go for. I think Marcus is running a 0.625 with his but I dont know how he got on with it? Im think maybe something bigger as the pistons in the fiestas are pretty big.

Ive also mostly sorted the alternator bracket and a longer belt for a Subaru Legacy. Got some clearance issues with the cambelt cover nut but thats an easy fix.

[speedy]

a bigger mc will make you push harder on the pedal.
a smaller one is easyer on your leg... but with more travel.

[garyshoose]

I think the Cat will need to be on steroids to make 1/3 of a h/p :shock:
Allan



Or you could always just stick a firework up its hold on a minute, that's a terrible suggestion :lol:

[kcchan]

Right, its been a while and Ive actually done some work but it hasnt really been post worthy. Anywho Ive got some pics of some exciting-ish bits.

The original gear lever plate had been welded into the old mini position but my Ka dash comes forward quite abit and therefore needed moving back, so I stole an from Marcus
http://i39.tinypic.com/2a6tmbq.jpg
Its a length of steel tube with a rose joint welded into it and the gear change pivot onto the end. Still need to make a gearbox stabilizer though.

Got my seats mounted, here they're just tacked but are now fully welded.
Two mounts on the cross member.
http://i39.tinypic.com/345oh2d.jpg
And two on the seat mounting bar I made.
http://i44.tinypic.com/avlhlc.jpg

My proposed dash with mocked digi-dash and a fuel guage which I didnt realise didnt come with my model dash
http://i40.tinypic.com/v3ogmg.jpg

Also a little blanking plate I made that I decided to run fuel lines through and also the battery cable
http://i42.tinypic.com/2qsv2tl.jpg

[tomfc]

Any updates with the mini mate?

[Marcus Nordblom]

Ive tried looking but couldnt really find anything.

Im going to be running the fiesta caliper conversion (which I have pretty much finished) and drums. Now Im going to relocate the MC to inside the car but dont know what bore to go for. I think Marcus is running a 0.625 with his but I dont know how he got on with it? Im think maybe something bigger as the pistons in the fiestas are pretty big.

Ive also mostly sorted the alternator bracket and a longer belt for a Subaru Legacy. Got some clearance issues with the cambelt cover nut but thats an easy fix.

go yellow tandem with the fiestas, to much spongieness otherwise;)

looking good, crack on with it:)

[miniswift]

Hey,

You are on Mini mag in On the Job section this month!
I didn't know you worked outside to rebuild your car.
Hat off to you, mate.

Good luck.
Cheers
Atchi

[kcchan]

Ohh, I didn't know it was this months!

Thanks, It's hard to find the time and motivation when you're nearly 200 miles away from the car and it's wet and rainy..

The mini has gone through quite a few changes since this build thread.. Maybe I'll get some pics of my new subframe design and other little bits I've been collecting, when I'm home.

King