Swiftmini Turbo

[Swiftmini]

I have decided to make a post, so that i can document my slow build up of a turbo kit.

http://www.pfranc.com/projects/turbine/turbo.gif

The plan is to have it as a work in progress at the same time as finishing the mini. I will get mot and do a few months driving before i plan to fit it all. Below are pics of my shiny new manifold. Iam very happy withit, although it will need modifications to make it fit.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/18-03-07_1529.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/18-03-07_1523.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/18-03-07_1531.jpg

Here a couple pics of the adaptor iam having to make so that i can fit the turbo i already have.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/18-03-07_1527.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/18-03-07_1525.jpg

I have made some measurements and the manifold sticks out from the head face by approx 7.5 inch. If i decide to use the turbo and an adaptor i have the option to put the turbo as close to the block as possible. I think and hope that with my clubby front i will get 8inch +-0.5 clearance (this is using the extra 4inch figure that everyone quotes when using a clubby). Iam hoping that the manifold and external wastegate will be visible behind the grill area when you look at the car from the front. When i weld on the new flange i could slightly shrten the runners and probably save an inch or so.

Pulsar intercooler, not sure if TMIC or FMIC yet will need to check for space.
Add pic

Wrx TD04L turbo, may change for a garrett so that an adaptor isn't needed. Plus i want an external wastegate so i may have to nail the internal one shut.
Add pic

And for fueling

Fuel pump from a scooby wrx
http://i17.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/88/2c/27a8_1.JPG

Supra 440cc injectors with custom fuel rail
Add pic

I may dig out my bike carb manifold that i made and use it will throttle bodies off a gsxr 600 and of course the megasquit for controlling it all.

I will most probably run the setup on the engine that is already in the car. Low boost about 10psi.

I have my spare engine stripped and iam currently cleaning up the head and plan to give it a good going over. this will require building a flow bench or finding work experience with someone that has a flow bench. Or i could pay somone else, but thats out of the question cose i won't learn anything. I want to change the valves as well.

I will be getting cams when my student loan arrives and i will be making some vernier pulleys out of my stock ones, or possibly adding more keyways for some choice.

The cams i plan to get are from a guy on teamswift. Here is some info he sent me below.

My 200(duration at .050")/.335"(lift in inches) profile has 1mm exta lift, and 8 degrees more intake duration.
Good for 7500+ RPM, still with decent lowend torque.

The 210/340 profile gives up a little torque on the bottom, but comes on hard at 3500-4000, and pulls strong to 8500+
These will both work with your stock springs, and hydraulic lifters.

Mike
Note; these are reground cams.

I want the second set, the 210/340. I will use them NA for a while most probably.

The spare block will be o-ringed (more of that on monday hopefully) and the bore opened up a bit. I don't want to go bigger than 76mm but i want to retain the standard squish so i may stay with stock gti pistons but ultimately i want forged low compression oversize pistons. For as little money possible.

I will keep the stock crank and con-rods and look at improving them. But i doubt i will build an engine that will go above 9000rpm because after 8600rpm the engine requires solid lifters, which i intend to make and fit but later rather than sooner.

Ok iam well bored of writing which probably means i have waffles on.

I want questions/answers and advice/tips from anyone who is interested.
I'm not sure how quick progress will be.

I haven't forgotten about finding out the prices for laser cut flanges for people who have asked. Iam going to wait till i go home to exeter and find someone down there i have contacted a few company but i want to get a cash in hand job so.

I will ask prices for:-

Inlet..aluminium
Exhaust..stainless and milds steel
T28 exhaust inlet..stainless and milds steel
Tdo4L wrx turbo all flanges..stainless and mild steel

Cheers peeps.

EDIT: Going to have a price list below so i can keep track.

Most of the ebay prices include delivery where not stated

Turbo TDO4L WRX £38 Ebay
Manifold Honda B16 £55 Ebay
Fuel pump WRX £10 Ebay
440CC Injectors £15 Ebay
Pulsar Intercooler £60 Ebay
Megasquirt Extra £305 Extra EFI
Bosch Recirc valve £10 Ebay
Donor engine £90 Ebay

Total £583

[darrell cripps]

Wear did you get the manifold from ???

darrell

[ed4ran]

Its a honda one from ebay. :D

[Swiftmini]

Hi darrell

The manifold is an ebay job, Ed is correct :D . i got for £40 with £15 p&p. It is an XSPower manifold from the states, there are sellers selling it on ebay for £60 buy it now and £30 p&p. Only prob is it is for a b16 honda and i will have to replace the flange and move two of the runners by 5mm.

Suzuki port spacing is 85-85-85
honda port spacing is 90-80-90

the runners are also about 5mm larger diameter but i will open up the ports abit and leave a step. The step should help with reversion of exhaust gases.

cheers
Kev

[ed4ran]

Could you not do some of the transition with the flange?
i.e. cut it to the swift spec, then open out with a taper to the honda size?

[Swiftmini]

Thats not a bad :idea: .

I could just try to make a spacer to go between the honda flange and the swift head, then put the transition in that.

The studs would have to be in the right place so it may not be an option. I could fix the spacer to the head using countersunk M8 screws. The spacer would be taking up valuable space though :?

I will probably still have a look at moving the runners.

Thanks for the idea, gives me a few other options to consider.

kev

[ed4ran]

I was thinking more cut the flange off the honda manifold, cut a new flange to the swift spec, weld the adjusted manifold to the flange, then open the manifold side of the flange to the size of the pipes but leave the swift side untouched so the transition is in the new flange. :|

[Swiftmini]

Ahh i understand :oops: that will be worth a look. I will be opening up the ports a bit just not sure how much is good. Most of the restriction is the valves and the bridge in the port. I'm worried that if, i have to fast a transition from 32mm to an effective 38mm, i will lose some vital gas velocity. Iam still researching head modifications but it is hard tell the good from the bad without dyno proof.

Cheers
kev

[Swiftmini]

Ok as promised, o rings, i had a bash at making a tool in the machine shop at uni.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/19-03-07_1757.jpg

can you guess what it is yet

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/19-03-07_1749.jpg
An old broken centre drill for a tip.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/19-03-07_1751.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/19-03-07_1750.jpg

I have know idea if this is gonna do the job but i'm fairly confident. The hardest part is grinding a nice edge on my make shift cutting tip. I have made it adjustable between 60 and 100mm.

From reasearch, i think i have to make a 0.9mm wide and 0.75mm deep and use 1mm wire. I don't think i will bother with machining a receiver groove in the head. Only problem is my block is in devon and i'm in derby, i will have to wait.

[ed4ran]

Cool, your lucky you have access to a machine shop!! :(

[Swiftmini]

Depends though. I pay £1275 a year to use these facilities. When i worked i got payed £250-£300 a week, while i used the machines. Its gonna suck when i finish.

[Swiftmini]

Ive be looking on teamswift regarding exhaust runner diameter and it appears that 38mm isn't a bad size at all :). I want to look into wether i can weld the internal wastegate shut and run an external gate.

[The Mighty Mallott]

Hello mate, i have always found head mods to be of small importance on forced induction cars, not like on NA cars, i did a turbo conversion on a swift in plymouth, running low boost, i think it was rolling roaded around 145 bhp, load as hell though!
Have you looked at escort cossie intercoolers? they have a small charge cooler on as well, solid ally, and cheap around £30 on fleabay.

Mat

[Pandora]

Are they that loud? This is something i wanted to do a bit later on. So it would be interesting to know. I was looking at getting those cams to, tho i was looking at the piper ones but they say you need solid lifters.

[Swiftmini]

If you do not de-restrict the head the valves will need replacing after about 6 months even at low boost. I plan on making alot more than 145 bhp i want to go over the 200hp mark eventually. I will probably try to push 200hp on the high compression setup. 10psi should pull about 165-175hp on awell built motor. Just think if your 145 bhp motor had headwork it may have made a fair amount more power.

Regarding noise levels. I don't know, but i have heard that the turbo reduces the sound low enough that you do not need silencers. If this is the case i will run the exhaust straight out behind the front wheel.


i was looking at the piper ones but they say you need solid lifters

I thought that as well but it turns out you can run a bit more lift then most people think. Although race profile cams will cause problems, i would think.

I want solidlifters but thay are expensive, i don't know why i can't just fill the oil feed holes and replace the plunger with shims. I know a company that makes them but they are £11 each.

I you fit them you can go beyond the magic 8600 rpm and then the con-rod let go at 9000rpm.

I will look into an escy cossie intercooler, i want something more compact or a charge cooler.

Cheers
Kev

[ed4ran]

but i have heard that the turbo reduces the sound low enough that you do not need silencers. If this is the case i will run the exhaust straight out behind the from wheel.
Thats what im hoping too!! then i can run the exhaust out in front of the rear passenger wheel!! It really would be 1m long at most!! :lol:

My plan was to get a low boost turbo setup on a stock engine, then build a turbo engine for higher boost then swap it over.
For me doing the head work should only improve the reliability and should help get the hp, but not necessarily give the hp (if that makes much sence).

[Swiftmini]

Yeah exactly. The exhaust ports are very restrictive and opening them up will release some more ponies.

[The Mighty Mallott]

Is the head really that bad? i would have thought it was pretty good, as it gives good power for a small engine.
Some suitable valves and new seats and guides (or cosibro) then maybe just a quick wipe around with a flap wheel to get rid of casting marks, should be good for road, i did not realise you were aiming for over 200bhp! Is that realistic? and more importantly reliable?

Yeah the one i did is offensively loud, (not my choice, the customers!)
it would make your ears bleed in no time.

Mat

[miniswift]

Hi,

You can make solid lifter using hydro one you have.
All you need to do is take old lifter's inside, measure cut suitable EN26 to size heat it up to cherry red and oil quech it.
Then surface grind them to make sure they are smooth.
Next step is, fit it into you cylinder head and measure the gap.
Using shims to build up to your required gap, like say 12 thou.

This is what I have been told from a rally car builder in Forest of Dean.
He has built 4 Swift Gti engined rally cars as far as I know for customer last year.
He had 2 Novas with Gti engine with Nova gearbox, Peugeot 205 with G13B and Toyota Starlet with G13B RWD.
I think all of them has budget built lifters in.

Turbo wise, Guys in Teamswift has 180+ from 3 pot so with extra pot in G13B, I think 200+ is reallistical....did I spell it right!?

I think you will need to think about gearbox more than anything.

For that, you can fit bell housing to fit Nova gearbox which you can buy with SCCR with Quife LSD for £800 second hand I heard.

Well, I hope my input will help you guys a bit!

Cheers
Atchi

[Swiftmini]

You can make solid lifter using hydro one you have.
All you need to do is take old lifter's inside, measure cut suitable EN26 to size heat it up to cherry red and oil quech it.
Then surface grind them to make sure they are smooth.
Next step is, fit it into you cylinder head and measure the gap.
Using shims to build up to your required gap, like say 12 thou.


Great info Atchi thanks for adding that, i always thought it could be done.

Will i have to block any oilways do you think.

I guess i will have to machine a profile on the new part to match the inside of the follower where it touches the top of the valve.

I can bore the inside of the follower in a lathe using a slot drill or an end mill followed by a boring bar to clean it up. If i measure and surface grind carefully i maybe able too not use shims to make the clearance.

The gearbox has been on my list to change since the start. The vauxhall box i like, mounting point position, linkage height, overall strength and availabilty of performance parts are very attractive. I got told about the conversion by Eddy hall from Hall tune i think in scotland.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/e3_1_bgfdgd.jpg

I like the idea of adapting a bellhousing. I will look into it.

I think a new subframe, gearbox and maybe mid engined are gonna be needed. I will have to see how things go.

Thanks again.

kev

[Swiftmini]

The heads are pretty good for NA where a bit of restriction helps but with the addition of a turbo the restriction becomes a bit of a problem. More back pressure, more heat and dead valves.

I will probably only give the inlet a clean up and some better valves with three angle seats, although i do plan to fit some bike bodies.

Do you work with Alan jeffreys, the only link i could find about cosibro was his website. Iam interested to hear more about it.

Was the car loud because of the type of exhaust sytem?

Did you run it with only the downpipe on at all?

Thanks for your input.

kev

[Swiftmini]

I need to think about rods and pistons.

Pistons will require thought about compression ratios....High or low.
Dished, forged and have a standard compression height.

Some options for rods include. 4agze, RB20 correct length, thats all the info i have found and Carillo $350 each

4Agze/Age are approx 2mm longer (122mm?) and have a different small end size (20mm) but very strong also heavy.
Approx 510 g vs 430 g stock gti.
Rod ratio goes from about 1.58 to 1.62.

"A long rod will improve top end performance and also reduce piston and cylinder wear. A short rod will improve bottom end performance but increase piston and cylinder wear."
Performance tuning in theory and practice. A. Graham Bell

How much difference will 2mm make.

kev

[ed4ran]

But where the hell do you get 4agze rods from? :lol:
Id love to get a ridiculous amount of power from it, but i think reliability will suffer.
Maybe have a boost controller to switch for those odd occasions, but then id still end up with it full all the time :lol:
200atw is my ultimate aim, i think ill probably swap engines in the future if i want more.

[Swiftmini]

But where the hell do you get 4agze rods from?

Yes!!!! A bit of a problem.

It could be reliable if built properly i'm sure.

MY turbo is already set at 18PSI and the megasquirt only goes to about 21PSI i think. So that is my limit, it would take a fair amount of work and dosh to get to a stage where i can run that sort of boost. I guess 200 is a good figure to aim for.

[Swiftmini]

May have found something.

http://www.crower.com/cat/import/toyota/rods/rods.shtml

Its not cheap but its half the price of carillo.

I think pistons and rods are where i may spend my money...when i get some.

[Swiftmini]

I'm looking at the company below to supply my pistons.

http://www.iapel.com/index_en.asp

Cheap as chuff, apparentley they're about $350, They're 8:1 which is to low for what i want and they're forged.

I'm having troubles getting through to them thoughbut i have someone on the case.

To raise the compression back up i'm gonna check the compression height and see if i can deck the block a small amount and skim the head. Most people use vitara pistons but these are 0.7mm shorter and they don't retain the squish band.

http://latins2.no-ip.com/twincam/forjados7.jpg

http://latins2.no-ip.com/twincam/forjados8.jpg

Hope i will here about them soon. I'm seeling my metty turbo motor and hopefully i can get pistons and cams.

Kev

[ed4ran]

Yeah ive seen those mentioned on Teamswift, i think the thing that will hurt will be the import tax!! :evil:
Unless your planning a trip out there or know someone coming over :lol:

[ed4ran]

All you need now are some new sleeves, ones that get rid of the open deck design, then you can run stupid amounts of boost!!! :D and rev really high!

[Swiftmini]

Yes the tax maybe a problem, although i get loads of stuff from different countries so i guess i have to wait and see. Although accralite want about £650 for a set.

I think Jess from turbine tech do block guards for about £100, i need to mail him and ask.

The other thing that may let go is the main caps. I will look into making a gurdle that support the mains. Or just machine the caps and put some EN24T support plates across the top of them.

Cheers
Kev

[Swiftmini]

I had a bash at drawing a follower in solidworks. The gap inside would have to be taken up with shims or just a slight re-design. Although i'm not sure if this is how Atchi tried to explain. Can the follower me machined on conventional machines, isn't it a bit hard. The other thought was maybe i could remove the pin in the middle of the hyd follower and replace it with a longer one that takes up the slack.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/lifter.jpg

I think i just need to get one and have a look, i've left them at home.

Cheers.
Kev.

[Swiftmini]

Just found this link.

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_projects/block_posting/index.html

An alternative to block gaurds and closed deck sleeves. Iam very interested in trying this out.

Kev

[ed4ran]

Yeah i was thinking of a girdle, have you seen the cad drawing for one, so you could just send it to be laser cut.

Ive seen the block posting before but dont like the idea of it!
Was thinking if it would be possible to get a second block guard and push it mid way down the cylinders as well as one at the top? but i guess the water jacket shape changes as it goes down? which might actually help hold it in place!

[The Mighty Mallott]

Hi Kev, yeah i used to work at Alan Jefferies, the cosibros are really good, basically the existing guide is reamed out, the cosibro sleeve is then pushed in, and a ball bearing the correct size for the valves is then fired through after.
They last for ages and reduce valve train drag. Another way to look at it, you can fit any stem valves you like (larger than standard) with the original guides.
Another thing, is the turbo not now the main restriction in the exhaust?
Cant remember what make the exhaust was, was stainless with 1 box. i guess you would have to try straight through with a lake pipe, might be ok you never know, sometimes crap exhausts just make a car really loud!

Mat

[Swiftmini]

Hi Thanks for your reply. Iam interested in the cosibro, do you have any links or text about it, or is it an Alan jefferies only service.

I'm def very interested in reducing friction loses.

Here is a post that explains the problem with turbo and exhaust valves/ports.

http://teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=9469&highlight=exhaust+ports

cheers mate

kev

[The Mighty Mallott]

Yeah the valves sound to be the main problem, probably look for sodium filled valves to stand the heat. Maybe think about not 3 angling the seats, just 1 angle make the seats wide to help with heat dissipation??

Mat

[Swiftmini]

Yes that sounds like a good plan, thanks for the advice.

Kev

[ed4ran]

How about some decent stainless valves?
or even mini valves!! :lol: (i think they would be too big!!)

[Swiftmini]

Lol i could modify the head to run siamese ports as well, to go with the valves.

Anyone know of any companys that could do me some good quality valves.

Iam starting to hear horror stories of these manifolds cracking around the wastegate port. I may have to rethink my manifold or reinforce it. Maybe if i don't run a external gate and fit a turbo brace it might be ok.

kev

[Swiftmini]

Here we go.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/JDMB20TDA/ManifoldExplosion002.jpg

I have noticed though that my manifold has extra bracing for the waste gate.

http://www.dsmloggers.com/stuff/aas.jpg

Personally i wouldn't expect a manifold to last without a fairly beefy mount, fixing it solid to the block.

We will see.

Kev

[ed4ran]

:shock: Dam, thats not good!! Maybe have to invest in a Turbine Tech manifold!!

[ed4ran]

or beef up that join? maybe wrap some more metal around that point and weld it up?

[Swiftmini]

The original plan was to use turbine tech parts, i got prices and i think they are very good (Prices in CAD not USD), but this year at uni has killed my funds. I wish i was working.

Ceramic coated hi-performance manifold: $795.00
Custom Stainless steel downpipe to fit the Mini cooper shell: $295.00
Turbo mount To hold the turbo firmly over the tranny: $159.00
Braided stainless steel oil/water lines including oil drain: $199.00

Oh by the way these quotes were to fit in a roundnose with no exstension.

kev

[ed4ran]

Yeah i was thinking more of the stock swift item slightly modified for my application as im not too restricted on space. :lol:

[Swiftmini]

yes that would work great. I thought about it before, cose my TD04 is usually fed by the manifold from below so i was gonna put the turbo above the gearbox and run a down/up pipe to it. You should def have a bash at that. Just have to watch the height of the oil return.

[Swiftmini]

I've been reading up on block posting, i wouldn't recommend it unless your a cowboyhttp://www.gcfair.com/new%20stuff/animations/hat.gif

I did a few small experiments in solidworks by modelling a sleeve and then constraining it where the head, block and posts would be holding it. Then i simulated the co-effecient of expansion and looked at the results. Oval bores wouldn't work, thats all i can say.

I will try and post up an image of what happened.

Here is the block and liners that i modelled.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/Part3-COSMOSXpressStudy-Design_Chec.jpg

I added a pressure pushing the liners out from the centre and constrained the block posts. This was the only way i could think to do it be cause i don't know how to model the co-efficient of expansion.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/Part3-COSMOSXpressStudy-Deformation.jpg

This last one is supposed to show material displacement. I think the colours look nice.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/Part3-COSMOSXpressStudy-Stress-Plot.jpg

I'm looking into a couple different companies that make block guards, but i think i may try and get it all done where i used to work on the CNC machines.

Also got an email from aipel the piston guys. They wanted me to give them a spec, this means that i will be getting them slightly higher comp and 76mm (1360cc). No price yet and i need to ask if they can put gift on the box.

Now its really time to sell all my junk.

Cheers

[The Mighty Mallott]

Hi Kev, i was thinking about scooby valves or something like that, a 16v turbo application. What size are the standard valves, head and stem?
Get me that and i will ask around,see what i can come up with.

Mat

[Swiftmini]

Hi Matt, thanks again for your help.

I have just looked up the valve sizes.

Inlet = 29.1mm X 5.5 X 92.3 1R
Exhaust = 24.9mm X 5.5 X 92.3 1R

Cheers
Kev

[Swiftmini]

I have been putting some more thought into the solid lifter conversion. I have started a new drawing below. Iam guessing that inside the void, that is below the lifter pin, there will be a spring and a check valve. There is also an oil groove around the OD of the lifter with small holes in the groove supplying the void with oil.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/swiftmini/solid_lifter.jpg

If i remove the pin, check valve and the spring i will be able to make up some new pins with the required clearance. The pins will be manufactured from EN26 or a decent tool steel.

Iam also considering dowel pins, these are very inexpensive and come in a range of sizes. If i can find pins with the properties that i require i could remanufacture them to the correct dimensions. So far i have found that the pins i have been looking at are 60 HRC (hardness rockwell), thats pretty hard but i also need to know that they are tough enough to withstand the constant hammering.

Let me know if anyone knows any problems with my ideas.

Cheers
Kev

[Swiftmini]

or beef up that join? maybe wrap some more metal around that point and weld it up?

I think while i can, i may remove the flange and the collector and replace it with a new collector that has the correct flange for my turbo. I could increase the material thickness then and it saves me making an adaptor. I will look at making the flange duel purpose and also mount to the block for extra support.

[Swiftmini]

Just found out that a Suzuki bandit 1200 uses 31mm inlets and 27mm exhaust valves. I need to find more info on stem diameter and length.

Kev

[miniswift]

Hi Kev,

I know some people use water jet to cut metals.
If you are thinking of heat treating to get good toughness, following material can be used. D2 too steel (58-60RC) after Heat treatment(double temper). 01 they can go upto 56 RC if I recall it...
Gauge steel, they are cheap but they can go up to 62RC.
Also, CPM3V Crusteel 3 times toughness but can be same hardness 60RC.
If you want CPM3V powdered metalogy, then let me know.

I think using dowel pins will be bad idea.
They are only case hardened.

Cheers
Atchi

[Swiftmini]

Hi Atchi thanks form the materials, i've got more to read and look for now.

The dowel pins i was looking at were through hardened, but i can't find any info on material specs. I will leave them and look at other materials.

Powder metallurgy is awesome, i learn't a bit about it at college. Do you have a plant for making up parts using Powder metallurgy or do you get in, like billets, and machine it.

Thanks
Kev

I just added a link below for people who would like to read a bit about Powder metallurgy.

http://www.mpif.org/

[miniswift]

Hi,

I'm used to working with tool steel, due to my nature of work.
I am a CAD engineer who design and make(help with CNC progremme) press tool for automotive industries.

So, I use D2, 01, CPM3V and such everyday to make tools.
Well, not personally but instruct boys in shop floor to machine it.

I even made PG LSD myself using Gauge plate and heat treated.

Anyway, I know a lot about things but not in-depth knowledge.
Sometime, it can be dangerous to do this but I have many experienced tool maker who can advise me along the way. Also it helps if you know material supplier well!

Good luck with what you are making, if you need contact, let me know.

Cheers
Atchi

[Swiftmini]

Hi Atchi

I really just need a material that can be machined in a toolroom, flame hardened to get the properties i want and then ground to size using a centreless grinder and a surface grinder.

Thanks for your help.

Kev

[Swiftmini]

Iam going to hopefully fit +1.5mm valves all round. I will hopefully fit these into the stock seats. Iam going to use REC, but i haven't had a quote yet and Iam not looking forward to it.

[ed4ran]

Did you ever get around to getting prices for Laser cut flanges (inlet exhaust)? :?

I may do some soon as we want to build a new inlet for James car.

[ed4ran]

Anyone have CAD drawings of the flanges? :?
Would make it easier to get them done. :lol: :oops:

[miniswift]

Hi,

How soon do you want it?
Do you need inlet, exhaust or both?
I can draw one up for you.
Is it mk1 or mk2?
mk1 inlet has coolant heating up inlet mainfold and small hole for exhaust.

I think exhasut side will be same.

I take gasket to work and draw it up for you in dwg file.

Cheers
Atchi

[ed4ran]

Yeah not really in a rush, for them,
Both would be good as then i can get either done as we need (with the view to other projects ;) )

MK2 is what we both have, but i do have a MK1 engine as well (obviously not in the car).
Apart from the water and exhaust hole is there a bolt pattern difference? or would then fit on each MK?

[Swiftmini]

Sorry Ed not been here for a while.

I didn't get prices or have drawings done but hte place up the road from me said they can make the flanges if i supply the gaskets for them to copy.

I will try and get more info.

Kev

[ed4ran]

Any luck with the drawings? or havent you had time to do them yet? :oops:

Ed

[miniswift]

Hi Ed,

I have done exhaust manifold gasket and it is in dwg format.
PM me your e-mail address and I will send it to you.
If you can get them print out, and compare with your ex manifold and see if it is OK...
You need to give me measurement of how much bigger you want since it is a gasket drawing.
Also, I haven't had a time to do inlet yet but give me til next weekend.

Cheers
Atchi

[ed4ran]

Cool, PM'ed with email. 8)

Ill get a quote to have some made :D
(may wait to have both flanges though)

Ed