AMT & Ringmini frame

Hi, my first post here, hopfully not my last :D

Do anybody have any info on the AMT-frame?? Are the frame designed to fit miniparts in the suspension and brakes?? I would love to use 10" 8) I have heard some rumeors of the frame get finnished in May, is this right??

[VTEC]

LOL

[FatKev]

OH NO! You asked the now forbidden question - Info about AMT VTEC Frame and possible release date(s). :shock:

As far as I'm concerned it'll be ready when it's ready. Andy's work is meant to be outstanding. Im sure the only reason he's tried to put a release date on the kit is because of the large pressure he gets from us future customers. Give the guy a break :D

When I spoke to Andy (AMT, if you will), he said that it would use coilovers which he can provide for about £200. You can keep the brakes, but I would seriously ask you to think about some metro 4 pots!

Quite a few threads concerning the AMT frame, if MattG hasnt removed them. :?

Also I don't know how wise it'd be running on 10" rims... I once asked that, and got some comments concerning my mental state. Traction issues and so on. :wink:

However What size of rims did Dave Coxon run his turbo'd 150hp A series on? 10x5 I think. Also surely it's producing more torque than the pitiful amount pumped out of the B16? Think the braking was done by S calipers, please correct me if im wrong!

Kevin

Ah, that age old question.." I want to run 10's..."

Here's a thought I had, could be way off mark here...

The old series rovers have SOHC honda units, which are good for 100+ bhp. - And this is were it goes a big wonky - I think these units have been squeezed into a Std nose?
My thinking is that if I use the SOHC then the diff is geared for 13's. Not a great leap in rolling radius over 10's so it should be a bit lively off the line.

Yes, it would be great to run a Vtec, but I'd rather keep my 10's than have a mental BHP mini running 13's or larger!

Just a footnote: I ran my turbo on 10". No servo and Std S discs, never had any 'brown pants' moments either.

I have tought there may be a tractionproblem, but was hoping a LSD would help. Besides 13" does almost have the same diametre as a 10" I think :?:

The biggest issue is that I wont have a Clubman-front or a lenghtened front on my Van, I hoped the AMT frame was my solution :P

[FatKev]

We are all hoping the AMT frame will be the answer to our dreams! No longer will we need to extend the round nose, increase the width, and roll on horrible 13"s! These are the reasons we should all just sit back and wait for Andy to release his magical subframe kit. :twisted:

Yeah, I always thought 13's weren't a requiement, but I dont drive a 16v mini, so I don't have a clue. :(
Some of the guys who are lucky enough to own\built such cars seem to swear by big wheels. :?

Would it help if really wide 10" rims were used? Say a nice wide 10x6 rim with some very sticky rubber? I was planning on using 12x5 Whellers with some sticky Yokos :D

[Martin]

You could always change the final drive when its eventually ready. That should help alot. With a ratio of 3.5, it isn't too far off a standard Mini. There was a thread on this if you do a search. Obviously there will be a cost to it......

As regards to the LSD, I would definately get one if you can afford it. On our roads, even a lively 1.3 Mini sometimes has problems with traction if accelerating hard even though it only rains for only two/three months a year.

Does anybody have the email-adress to AMT?? Have started to dismantle my car in to pices, and would like to get some info on the kit before I do something inreversible... :lol:

[MiniGT5]

I dont think AMT have an email address or any form of web front end for that matter.

let us know if you get a revised release date or any info for this legendary mythical frame :wink:

GT5 :)

My plan was to use the Ringmini kit 8) , but I can not get hold of him, I get all my emails in return :cry:

Yeah, my car is LHD 8)

[honda-mini]

try this Email addy Korden-Achim@t-online.de

i had two from him as pasted below:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

hi.

I looked with interest at your site.

I am looking to put a 1.6 Vtec(B16a) engine into my round front mini and hoped you wouldn't mind me asking you a few questions

1) did you have to extend the front?
no but it works only on lhd minis

2) did you modify the bulkhead?
yes as you can see on my website

3) did you move the alternator?
yes turned it and fixed on the left engine mount

4) where did you put the radiator?
one on the right side and one at the front right (look at pics on my website)

5) do you have any pictures with measurements or do you sell the subframe?
I make complete conversions.
Prices from 1800 to 2250 for different engine types.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

prices are
1800 Euro ED7 type
1850 Euro ED9 type
2250 Euro EE8/9 type



HTH

Thanx, will try that email :)

Thats the same prices I got, but what kind of engine is EE8/9 type??? :?:

Well, have tryed that mailadress a couple of times now and 0 response :? Anybody been in touch with him in the last couple of months?? :?:

[strudel]

I'm only guessing but the EE8/9 might be a D16A8/9 which are the Euro Integra and possibly CRX engines. I've not seen those Honda types. Maybe Nominous would know. JS

[BassAddict]

EE8 etc refers to the trim level - I've started doing a table of all the honda engines and what they're in - I've not found EE9 yet, but EE8 is the B16A1 from a US Civic CRX Coupe 1.6VTi (1990).
Hope this helps,
Rich

[strudel]

Here is the answer for all from a Honda board that helped me out. JS

Yep, ED/EE/EF I belive are all chassis codes designated to the 88-91 Civic/CRX, depending on what world market you are in (ED=US, EE=Europe, EF=Asia).

ED3, ED4, ED6, ED7 are all listed in my 1991 US Civic service manual as chassis codes, depending on the engine. The numerical digit can designate either engine or transmission type.

You can decipher your own chassis codes of any Honda (I believe) by just reading the VIN plate.

After the JHM (assuming you have a Japanese built Honda) the following 3 digits are the chassis code.

Another relavant example:
AF5=1986 CRX Si (the 5 designating 5-speed transmission).