View Full Version : Hayabusa/GSXR 1000 RWD MINI BUILD
trendkill
08-10-2011, 07:19 PM
Hello.
I'm building a RWD bike engined mini at present. First Mini so I'm new to this!
I am lucky enough to have a full workshop & tools etc... Working with Land rovers is my job but I fancy a change for a couple of months.
I won a half started project on ebay for £205! It's a Mini 30th Anniversary thats had a bit chopped out. Came with a half done cage, Front subframe, Front hubs, 3 wheels & tyres, V5, Panels, Seats, Steering Wheel, Dash etc... I have stripped it totally to start work and shall list some bits on ebay to further fund the project! - I'm hoping for 10 weeks as I've set some time aside for this.
After a fair bit of thought I've decided against Ducati power for my first build, due mainly to dukes not being the most reliable of bikes!
Instead I'm looking at Hayabusa engines but like the idea of a GSXR 1000 due to cost and similar power output. Thoughts?
So here goes! Pictures first of getting the shell / half done cage sorted out. Also putting the front subframe on a diet. Planning coil overs.
Any thoughts / Comments welcomed. I'm looking for advice on the rear end especially - Places for lining frame up, Engine mounting, Rear wishbones etc....
Cheers!!!!
trendkill
08-10-2011, 07:24 PM
More photos of progress....
trendkill
08-10-2011, 07:32 PM
Front subframe test fit
Also unhappy with the roll cage so I've cut it to move it about inside the shell so it's easier to work on etc..
fatlad
09-10-2011, 12:52 PM
looks good! liking the lightweighted subframe. have you thought about rear coilover mounts? might be worth moving the backstays of the cage to pick them up?
trendkill
09-10-2011, 02:12 PM
I decided to chop and change the from subframe due to it being abit on the heavy side etc.. also it has no engine to carry so figured it could be put on abit of a diet! Would like to make a new one from scratch someday when I can be bothered to spend ages making a jig to do so.
I've thought a hell of alot about the rear end! I think that's the bit that I'll need to spend the most time getting right.
Still undecided on going with a propshaft conversion (Mounting the engine sideways) or going chain drive.
Does anyone have any ideas on how I'm going to make sure this beam/rear subframe is true and in line? I was thinking measuring from the center support that runs from left to right under the front seats, Is this 'BANG ON' accurate?
Any thoughts or suggestions would be sweet!
Many thanks
Looking good fella! :)
Rather than doing a beam, how about intergrate it with the cage, a little something like this perhaps?
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r1/tennis_the_menace/006.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r1/tennis_the_menace/007.jpg
trendkill
09-10-2011, 03:13 PM
Like that idea alot Owen!
Your wishbones look like z cars stuff?
I like the idea of being able to adjust them using those bolts with a hole through the end?? God knows what they are called, the things in your 2nd picture ;)
Yep they are Z cars, my friend sold them to me for cheap. I wouldn't dream of buying them new tho far too much £££
I've got a much better pic of the adjusters I made:
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r1/tennis_the_menace/409bc7f9-0cf7-426a-831a-04f4c7ff26aa.jpg
trendkill
09-10-2011, 03:33 PM
Cheers for the pictures! - Keep them coming ;)
Now I need to make me some of those....
How much do just the arms cost from z cars roughly???
Cheers
Cheers for the pictures! - Keep them coming ;)
Now I need to make me some of those....
How much do just the arms cost from z cars roughly???
Cheers
I think they are about £450 new from them, but I paid under half that. They were brand new second hand. I'm unsure if they'll fit yet, i'm using a vauxhall motor and they might not clear (i've made it as wide as I can live with).
Check out my build diary for more pics. It's near the top in the vauxhall section.
trendkill
09-10-2011, 03:51 PM
Just read your build thread Owen, Looking good. Be nice to be able to build my own front subframe from scratch! Crossed my mind many times as the original ones are pants! IMHO
£450 from zcars? Sod that!
If you don't end up using yours then please give me a shout haha.
What are the names of those screw in things you have been using for your suspension? They have a 'o' ring at the end for a bold/pivot to slide into.... Need to get me some of those!
Thanks again
Just read your build thread Owen, Looking good. Be nice to be able to build my own front subframe from scratch! Crossed my mind many times as the original ones are pants! IMHO
£450 from zcars? Sod that!
If you don't end up using yours then please give me a shout haha.
What are the names of those screw in things you have been using for your suspension? They have a 'o' ring at the end for a bold/pivot to slide into.... Need to get me some of those!
Thanks again
Cheers :)
They are "rose joints". If you're going to do adjustable camber on the rear like mine, make sure to get the misalignment bushes (the gold bits either side), otherwise the rose joints may lock up.
I used to use http://mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/ great service, and cheap but I have since found a local place that supplies them and does cash deals ;)
trendkill
10-10-2011, 10:47 AM
Owen - So the gold bits are misalignment bushes, that explains it!
Which rose joints are you using in the pictures? I've checked that site out, could do with knowing what size you're using and what 'strength' they are as their site has a few options.
I'm trying to find somewhere at the rear of the shell that is 'dead straight' to work out if this cage is even in bang on, nevermind to somehow start to line up the rear end for wishbones etc...
Still new to the mini scene so haven't a clue what some bits are called etc... Bare with me! - The red line/bar in the picture is what I'm hoping is straight or true to the shell... If so its ideal to tack a piece of box section in and use that as my level!
Guessing this is one of the places the rear subframe bolted onto? I didnt cut the hole out the back of the mini so dont know what the hell went where!
Cheers
M J W J
13-10-2011, 07:57 PM
Yep where your red line in should be about where the heal board went. This is where the rear sub frame's front mounts bolted to the shell. Being a mini though it is doubtful how straight it was.
daveyjones
13-10-2011, 08:16 PM
Understand the unreliable duke engine are you sure that a suzuki TL1000 or wouldn't sound sweet???? Especially with a slipper clutch.... my megablade sounded awesome on full chat but in a mini shell well hmmm.... ear plugs all round.
This will be a great build and with a full workshop of goodies, late nights are a must.
keep the photos coming.
Owen - So the gold bits are misalignment bushes, that explains it!
Which rose joints are you using in the pictures? I've checked that site out, could do with knowing what size you're using and what 'strength' they are as their site has a few options.
I'm using these ones on the radius arms...
http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=63 (click here!)
I think the general consensus is UNF is better than metric when it comes to this as the finer thread allows much more accurate adjustment.
trendkill
15-10-2011, 11:02 PM
I've spent the last half hour looking at Suzuki TL 1000's!
They sound great and have a shed load of torque, I'm just thinking that it may be fun having a bike engine that is more revy and produces more bhp also. The TL 1000 knocks out around 125bhp with 107 nm torque. Had a look at the stats on a Kawasaki ZX12R and they seem to be around 160bhp with 91 nm torque.
Hmmm, Shall have to continue giving this some thought!
Owen - I shall be buying some of those rose joints shortly so I've something to help me along with making radius arms. Can you tell me exactly which ones you are using of that site you posted a link to? :)
I think that there is more to cut out the rear of the mini. Can anyone tell me where z cars are cut out to? Thinking more of the rear floor needs removing for the engine / rear drive train etc...
Thanks again! - More photos to follow
These are what i'm using on the rear radius arms...
http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=63
miniswift
16-10-2011, 09:31 PM
Hi Owen,
Can you tell me how big the radius arm tube size?
Also, can you take photos of welding near the hub?
Sorry to highJack your thread.
Cheers
Atchi
trendkill
24-10-2011, 06:41 AM
Have been doing a few hours here and there this last week.
A panels & scuttle are now on. Floor is nearly all sorted & cage tacked back in place!
Now to make a spit so I can weld some heritage sills in place!
Still searching for some radius arms, Owen - Could you take a few measurements of yours for me please & tell me what hubs your fitting?
Thanks again! :D
trendkill
16-11-2011, 05:49 PM
I'm now going to be fitting a ZX12R engine to the mini as they are alot cheaper for the same power output as a Hayabusa.
QUICK QUESTION! - Does anyone know any pros/cons to a zx12r & what year/era/age of engine may be best to look out for?
Thanks in advance!
daveyjones
17-11-2011, 08:54 PM
Hi,
Don't know that much about zx12r engines but my mates seemed ok. I have often thought about another bike engined car after my megablade. Like you idea of a twin though,mad sound and yep slipper clutch. One thing which took a lot of fun out of the megablade on the road was the all or nowt clutch. rev,rev slip gone or rev a bit more slip stall... nitemare on hill starts too. So a bit off advice check out whats on the market in the way of slipper clutches or heavier duty ones.
Also check out your reverse gear drive system, mine was quaiffe
http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/search/results/taxonomy%3A825
Also I had to carryout a mod to use a thicker spacer between block and sump to maintain better oil pressure.
Anyway hope this will help you along a bit, once built though bike engined cars are very quick and good fun
good luck with your future build
Allan McD
17-11-2011, 09:40 PM
A slipper clutch slips when you change down the gears its meant to prevent the rear wheel hopping it dosnt affect the clutch when changing up gears or pulling away.
Very few heavy duty clutches are as good as a standard one.
Dont take the word from an aftermarket manufacturer they exaggerate.
Allan
daveyjones
17-11-2011, 09:53 PM
My apologies, although designed for down shifting I thought they (slipper) hence reference to tl1000s I was lead to believe they helped with rotational inertia my mistake I stand corrected. My post was not intended or did I state a slipper clutch was used to pull away.. anyway good luck with your build,
Ear bending accepted....
minithekid
29-02-2012, 09:16 PM
i've spent the last half hour looking at suzuki tl 1000's!
They sound great and have a shed load of torque, i'm just thinking that it may be fun having a bike engine that is more revy and produces more bhp also. The tl 1000 knocks out around 125bhp with 107 nm torque. Had a look at the stats on a kawasaki zx12r and they seem to be around 160bhp with 91 nm torque.
Hmmm, shall have to continue giving this some thought!
Owen - i shall be buying some of those rose joints shortly so i've something to help me along with making radius arms. Can you tell me exactly which ones you are using of that site you posted a link to? :)
i think that there is more to cut out the rear of the mini. Can anyone tell me where z cars are cut out to? Thinking more of the rear floor needs removing for the engine / rear drive train etc...
Thanks again! - more photos to follow
zx12...defo
william_clubman
07-03-2012, 03:25 PM
look good
trendkill
07-03-2012, 07:31 PM
Been really busy over the last couple of months so not much time spent on the bike mini!
Shall upload pictures of progress etc...
Owen - How are you getting on with yours?
Cheers people! Bob
vBulletin® v3.8.4, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.