Mini502's cooper/vtec build [Archive]

Mini502

05-03-2011, 05:30 AM

So I finally got around to a build thread...After searching and saving I finally came across this little round nose.
I had to meet the truck at the end of the road because he couldn't come down the street and manage to turn around
to get back out(stacked with cars). Of course the battery was dead so the trucker and I had to push it about 200 yards
to the house..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/8-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/3-1-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/1-1.jpg
It actually runs and I think I have determined it is a 998cc
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/14-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/15-1.jpg
And now the cancer....I mean inside...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/10-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/12-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/Misc2010009.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/11-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/16-1.jpg

Mini502

05-03-2011, 05:22 PM

the pull...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/28-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/33-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/44-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/47-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/48-1.jpg
Now finding someone here in town who wants this motor will certainly be a challenge.
It'll probably find a spot somewhere on the shelf to collect dust....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/50-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/49-1.jpg
all in a days work :cool:

wilp99

05-03-2011, 05:48 PM

good start. where u located? must be warm outside, everyone wearing shorts and no shirts.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/28-1.jpg

very scary picture..

cant wait to get my mini's back to the states. gonna be dope..

Kam

05-03-2011, 08:05 PM

MINIMAD30

05-03-2011, 08:25 PM

Lol seen the front pannel give way a few times with far less than a hoist living he entire body weight! Best of luck with the build!!

Mini502

05-03-2011, 08:36 PM

Another honda build! :cool:

Also, rookie mistake, when you first buy a mini that looks nice on the inside :D never lift it like that - solid areas wont stay solid for long on cars like that! :shock:

Whats the spec/plans for this then? Keep the pictures coming as its cold here :lol:

The car came with a new front end and a few other sills that need to be replaced so I didn't sweat it. Car came with interior, these pictures were taken after I removed it all. (I did take it for a spin before I tore into it btw) I have had the car since July of 2010 so I have a lot to post up(i'll let the pictures tell the story) It is cold here but is steadily getting warmer. I haven't put any wrench time in for a month or so but tomorrow is supposed to be warm! Car is now 90% rust free and in etch primer. Plan is to keep it RHD and put a D series in it. I have a complete D16z6 and am in the process of building the subframe right now. The frame is tubular and will utilize standard mini suspensions and all.

Kam

05-03-2011, 08:47 PM

We like pics on here, lots of them :D I know it can be a pain to post them up but people here would really like to see the progress :cool:

Also silly question, over there its LHD right? :lol: how comes your keeping it RHD, less hassle?

Mini502

05-03-2011, 09:44 PM

Yes is is LHD. I like the uniqueness of the RHD though, the only RHD I get to see here is the occasional civic and the mail man.

Mini502

08-03-2011, 03:20 AM

okay car is now stripped and is ready to be media blasted. Clearly it was at least 3 colors :confused:. The giant X's are there to let the guys know not to waste their time and my money blasting panels I know I am going to replace. The stand I made from what I had laying around...Its a bit rickety but has definitely saved my back.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/68.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/77.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/69.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/70.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/75.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.comhttp://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/newreply.php?do=postreply&t=25055/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/71.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/73.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/78.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/79.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/80.jpg
These wheel wells are just disgusting!!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/81.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/83.jpg
I'm glad to see minimal if any rust on the roof
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/85.jpg
At this point I was afraid the only thing I would get back from blasting was the pedal box, E-brake lever, and the roof lol.
The car is now loaded and ready to take the journey to the blasting site.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/Misc2010112.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/Misc2010116.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/Misc2010117.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/Misc2010118.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/Misc2010119.jpg

Mini502

08-03-2011, 09:50 PM

Car is now back from blasting and looks like a screen door in most places. I was amazed to see how much seam sealer was used when these were built!! I hit it with a brush cup on the grinder to try and get some of the seam seal off. Since the car is now bare metal and will be prone to rust, I gave it a quick coat of self etch primer.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/87.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/89.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/88.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/90.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/91.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/96.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/95.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/93.jpg

Kam

08-03-2011, 11:19 PM

Bloody hell mate! :shock: that looks quite spartan in places! :lol:

Mind you, there were alot of X's on there, but still :(

737doonan

09-03-2011, 09:30 AM

holy shit it looks like a tea bag ur going to be a busy man!!!

Mini502

13-03-2011, 06:20 AM

First to go were the floors pans. We basically layed the new ones out where they would go on top of the rotten ones and traced with a sharpie..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/104.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/102.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/101.jpg
Turned up on the roof on a mattress now to make everything easier to get to.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/106.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/109.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/111.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/115.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/113.jpg

Mini502

13-03-2011, 04:57 PM

Okay theres a lot going on here, the front and rear floors are in, and we have started the boot floor and new rear subframe mounts. The new rear subframe mounting plates are now 1/8 inch (atleast x2 the size as before) and the nuts for the back side is 1 inch bar stock drilled and tapped to some standard bolts (none of the factory bolt sizes are available to me without special order:()
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/2010213.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/2010211.jpg

wilp99

14-03-2011, 05:21 AM

looks like you gots your hands full. just remember, dont cut too much out as you need certain things intact to maintain measurment accuracy. maybee work one side at a time. with these cars its easy to dig yourself a hole deeper than you expected.
i almost did.. heres my picture diary of the wifes estate.

http://s737.photobucket.com/albums/xx19/chellwil/

Mini502

14-03-2011, 05:49 AM

Thanks for the input wilp, I couldnt tell you have many measurements have been taken since the start. Thats one thing I can say we have done right. There was one mishap with the driver side door jam but luckily it was only tac welded and we cut it back apart. 4 people didnt notice the night of, but the neighbor walked over in the morning and caught it in a few minutes. (the jam was out and inch to far)

Mini502

21-03-2011, 04:00 PM

more of the boot...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/2010234.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/2010219.jpg
The spot welder has been my best friend. I do admit that I got a bit carried away with the spot welder in a few places but with 4 or 5 times the hp I think it will help against the extra stress it will have in its new life.:vtec:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/2010217.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/2010236.jpg
wheel well done on this side. we saved the little shock bracket and made the two weird triangles to tie it all together.(I ordered the full piece but when it arrived it was just the shock mount tower...so we just went with it..)

Now both side are done and rear sub frame is tightened up!!! My dad had a come along laying around in the garage so we mounted it to the ceiling and used it to easily lower the sub frame down into place. Worked like a champ! All the holes lined up without any problems. SUCCESS!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/2010238.jpg
Here you can see how the boot floor sits on the inside. We decided to just overlap the existing seat and lay a few beads down to ensure no movement.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/1042.jpg
Check out those floors!!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/1002.jpg

Mini502

29-03-2011, 08:05 PM

No longer upside down and probably a 100 lbs heavier haha, we start on the rear panels. Once again we just held the new ones in place, drew a line, and started cutting.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/146.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/157.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/163.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/164.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/165.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/166.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/168.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/172.jpg
Now we fit the panel. Not a bad fit as we have never done this kind of thing before.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/173.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/174.jpg
Like I had mentioned before, the spot weld is tops for doing seams like this.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/175.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/176.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/177.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/178.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/180.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/184.jpg
Now fitting the panel around these corners REALLY sucked. This is where I put faith in the body man to fine tune these areas.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/186.jpg

*franky*

30-03-2011, 06:06 PM

little tip mate check that the window fits ;)

Glenno

30-03-2011, 09:09 PM

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/180.jpg

Always wondered what happenend to the Blue Man Group? :p

Mini502

31-03-2011, 02:39 AM

Always wondered what happenend to the Blue Man Group? :p
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/180-1-1.jpghttp://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/bluemen-1-1.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini/bluemen-1.jpg
close haha

little tip mate check that the window fits ;)

I put the windows up for safe keeping. If I were to break one it would be rather pricey to get one here. Buuuut.. they should fit, I feel good about it:cool: We made a note of the factory panel and trimmed the new one to size. Also, the piece we spotted it to at the top didn't move..

Furyof4

02-04-2011, 06:38 PM

Looks like your doing a great job so far. Where is the US are you? I have about the same amount of work ahead of me:(. Doing a d16 swap also.

Mini502

02-04-2011, 10:54 PM

Looks like your doing a great job so far. Where is the US are you? I have about the same amount of work ahead of me:(. Doing a d16 swap also.

Thanks. I got a good 3hr lick in on the mini today:D I live in Kentucky. NICE! another D series, what are you plans for the subframe?? Also where did you find your mini??

Furyof4

03-04-2011, 01:25 PM

Wow I can't imagine there are many minis in Kentucky. I lucked out finding mine. I found a guy a couple hours from me that wanted to trade it for a civic that I had. Im building my own subframe and using a d16a6 and dohc zc trans. Where are you getting you panels from?

Mini502

03-04-2011, 06:37 PM

I have found it cheaper to order directly form Mini Sport. All the US vendors jack the prices WAYYYY UP. Plus, Mini Sport has a bigger inventory to choose from.

Furyof4

03-04-2011, 10:03 PM

Cool, Ive been making up a list on Minisport-usa. Great prices even with shipping.

Mini502

05-04-2011, 12:37 AM

I wasn't aware they had a site for us?????? Now that I know and I looked into it, it seems all the prices are roughly the same. It looks as if they just figured the exchange rate and made another site. But, I did notice the shipping and most things on my list on the original site were still a few dollars cheaper after the exchange was figured (4/4/2011 is $1.61). It seems that at 1.61 it is actually cheaper to order from mini sport Uk. I wonder if the exchange were to drop to something crazy like $1.30 if it would reflect on the USA site????? That being said maybe Minisport-usa.com needs to be updated.

Furyof4

05-04-2011, 11:11 AM

Yeah I just noticed that some of their prices went up recently. Still pretty good though. They actually have a usa office now so you can talk to someone on this side of the pond.

http://www.classicminis.org/minisport/minisport-usa.htm

Mini502

01-05-2011, 09:28 PM

Finally some updates. The rear end is sewed up and rust free! We have moved our attention to the front end to fix the problems on the bulk head. We are using thicker metal to accommodate more horsepower.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51030.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51027.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51026.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51001.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51002.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51006.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51005.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51007.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51008.jpg
The other side..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51003.jpg
These are some sleeves my Dad turned at work. Based on the problem MINIFAB had with his subby bolts wollowing out we decided to nip that in the bud. A bit was taken out of the oem washer to make up for the bit added with the new sleeve top. These will eventually be welded into place
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51021.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51022.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51023.jpg
We finally started fabbing the sub frame. This is where we are so far. Our plan is to mount the motor at this point before going any farther and build the sub frame around the motor as we go to ensure fitment of everything. The motor will of course be supported by the hoist while bolted in.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51009.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51011.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51012.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51014.jpg
It not perfectly positioned but this is about how it will mount
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51017.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51018.jpg
ideal alt belt clearance..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini51020.jpg

Mini fab

02-05-2011, 11:02 AM

Furyof4

02-05-2011, 06:20 PM

Progress looks great.:) Love the subframe design so far.

Mini502

04-05-2011, 12:37 PM

Great job! You won't regret installing that sleeve, I had a sharp steering handling when I install those sleeves, But make sure to weld up a flange top and bottom for no movement at all. Torque the bolts. And your good to go!;)

Thanks Mini fab, I was following your build closely for I knew I would be using a D series motor as well. My frame design will most likely be very similar to yours(hope you don't mind:D). I like how you sent the tranny side of the subby strait down in order to make room for the radiator. I will probably be shortening the distance thus making the curve happen a few inches sooner before I move any further. I am trying to save as much space as possible because I not only want a standard round nose but I would like some boost as well:mrgreen:. I know, that's a bit greedy, but we'll see how it pans out.
Progress looks great.:) Love the subframe design so far.

Thanks Fury, It will definitely be a slow-er process since so much comes in to play. This is my first car rebuild so I am open to any and all suggestions along the way.

vfast

04-05-2011, 07:49 PM

Looks good first class job on all your panel repair you had plenty to do its a sharp learning curve i will keep a close eye on your build as i am using a d15b to best of luck keep pics coming

Mini502

13-05-2011, 12:52 AM

okay I was starting to disassemble the mini and honda axles and I dont know how to take the cv joints apart on the mini side. I am afraid I might break something if I result to brute force and these are not common here lol. Help please thanks

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/garage005.jpghttp://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/garage006.jpg

wilp99

13-05-2011, 11:30 AM

if your getting new ends just beat them off with a hammer.............. no homo

Birdman

13-05-2011, 11:36 AM

if your getting new ends just beat them off with a hammer.............. no homo

Yep I agree. I've given up faffing with the circlip now. Just get the shaft and joint straight and give the CV a whack with a big mallet or dead blow hammer. I use a large copper and hide Mallet.

Mini502

13-05-2011, 12:04 PM

ok the hammer will get the outer off and there is a C clip of some sort holding the second set of bearings on?

Birdman

13-05-2011, 12:50 PM

ok the hammer will get the outer off and there is a C clip of some sort holding the second set of bearings on?

I'm not quite with you. You cannot dissasemble the outer CV joints as far as I know. Is that what you meant? If you are asking about Honda inner joints, I cannot help I'm afraid - no knowledge of them.

Mini502

13-05-2011, 03:18 PM

I was trying to get the the bare shaft. I just looked it up in the manual and it says just to beat it apart(just as you all said) I was over thinking it. Thanks for the help fellows.

wilp99

16-05-2011, 05:50 AM

it should all come off as one assembly. if for some reason the guts stay there, beat them off too. no homo.

Mini502

19-05-2011, 02:56 PM

Okay a quick update. I received a few things in the mail today from Mini Sport to keep things moving forward:cool:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/uwish0933/mini002.jpg

Mini502

29-05-2011, 10:49 PM

Okay we put in some time on the cooper yesterday. As talked about in honda chat rocket said if I haven't run into the rack problem I will, well as soon as we began mounting the motor it became clear that rhd and standard round nose do not mesh. Being that the car is legally a Rhd and for the simple fact that I like its uniqueness we went ahead and mounted the motor for Rhd. The motor is maybe 1 1/2" further towards the front of the car than was anticipated in all the brain storming. I do understand some front end mods will now be necessary and that's okay but my question to you all is the axles will not be completely strait will this cause a problem that i need to plan for now or? Although the wont be completely strait they will not be far from it if my estimations are correct. Ideas, opinions all welcome. (will update with pics soon!)

wilp99

30-05-2011, 04:10 PM

a little angle is ok. pretty much all rhd vtecs have an angle at the shafts.

Furyof4

01-06-2011, 04:03 PM

Stock Hondas have some driveshaft angle from the factory. They don't need to be perfectly straight.

Mini502

03-07-2011, 10:07 PM

Ok im getting my ducks in a row and will be putting a lick to the mini next week. Ive been gathering everything needed to push forward with the subframe so spirits are high and the motivation is getting there. Will have one hell of an update soon, pictures galore!!!

Kam

07-07-2011, 08:45 PM

my question to you all is the axles will not be completely strait will this cause a problem that i need to plan for now or?

The allspeed frame has much craziness to the axle angles! so you should be fine

My advice though, when you put your driveshaft together and tie it up (not plastic tie) run a bead of adhesive around the end, something like tigerseal or sikaflex or whatever good adhesive you have across the pond, the stronger the better

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/kambocars/Rio-tec%20build/gaitorseal.jpg

I've heard on more than one occasion on here of driveshaft boot gaitors popping off no matter what kind of ties you use, and its always on allspeed frames, the axle angle is the problem. Its little effort to safeguard yourself

Good luck with the frame building

Mini502

01-09-2011, 10:53 PM

Back at it finally. Tons of progress!!
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2659.jpg
We started by getting the motor mounted at the correct height. Oil pan is a half inch above the floor pans at this point. Next we fabbed up a rear mount with a dog bone from a fire bird (17$ new) and cut up a stock d16 intake manifold mount.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2656.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2654.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2661.jpg
Here its getting tacked togather so we can trial fit it to the frame. Weld er up, she fits like a glove. We used a ratchet strap to twist the motor to the angle we wanted in order to make this mount.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2662.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2663.jpg
Next, we began cutting DOM tubing to the right angle in order to make the correct bends around the motor. We tacked it togather first and then went back over the ends of the pipes and beveled them out to ensure plenty of weld could be laid down and cleaned up without sacrificing strength.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2665.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2664.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2669.gif
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2667.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2670.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2668.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2672.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2674.jpg
Took it all apart to weld the bottom side, blend the weld togather, and throw a coat of rattle can primer on it. The heat and humidity here in Ky is the big reason progress tends to be slow. We had a nice day so we put in 10 hours! Its already back to nasty weather again..
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2684.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2680.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2682.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2683.jpg
There is still 2 mounts to be made and a few other things to be made on this frame but it feels good to have the structure finished!

Jeffreypang911

02-09-2011, 02:25 AM

Thats a gorgeous looking subframe... I wish I had the patience to build my own subframe.

Mini502

05-09-2011, 05:15 PM

Okay so now its time to mount the alternator somewhere. Ive looked through many build threads and I see 3 options, mount it on or above the motor mount, make a mount like the minitec design, or mount it upfront. Im leaning towards mounting it upfront/down low because It seems to be out of the way and a tensioner will not be needed. That being said I am worried about the heat from the header.. Any suggestions? Worries?

Kam

05-09-2011, 07:57 PM

Brilliant work on the frame man, very nice :cool:

Judging by what you've done on this build so far I can't see how making a custom alternator mount similar to the minitec one would be an issue for you???????? :shock: Looks like you got the room back there so stick it there :D

The only/main issue is the radiator space.....

Mini502

05-09-2011, 11:45 PM

Thanks kam, after some head scratching today and fiddling with all the ideas, it looks like to the front it will be. There would be far too many steps in making a top mount for the alternator. Im still shaky about the heat that will be produced by the header, but I think some type of heat wrap will be right up my alley:cool:

wilp99

06-09-2011, 09:06 AM

Kam

06-09-2011, 09:28 AM

Im still shaky about the heat that will be produced by the header, but I think some type of heat wrap will be right up my alley:cool:

Shaky? well look away then, this was mine :lol:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/kambocars/Rio-tec%20build/altplugclose2.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/kambocars/Rio-tec%20build/altplugclose3.jpg

I had to snip the release tab a bit as it was about 3mm from the manifold, you can still clip it open with a small screwdriver, when I then put some manifold heat wrap on it was then almost touching the plug again and was a pain to the plug off (not that you would need to do this all the time)

Don't worry about the header heat aimed towards the alternator, under that bonnet there aint alot of room but revving an engine to 8000rpm produces alot of heat :lol: and the heat can't really go anywhere, everything will get hot

Mini502

06-09-2011, 03:23 PM

dont worry about the alternator getting too hot from the header. you have to move the alternator to the middle pulley on the crank as the belt will hit the timing cover if you use the one closest to the block. this is what i did to the estate, and its about 2.5" away from the headers.

Well... the way my frame is built there isn't room to touch the next pulley in line. The belt will either rub too bad or I wont be able to get it on. I'm almost debating weather to move the front bar on the frame down an inch or so which would ultimately drop the height of the alternator down.

Shaky? well look away then, this was mine :lol:

I had to snip the release tab a bit as it was about 3mm from the manifold, you can still clip it open with a small screwdriver, when I then put some manifold heat wrap on it was then almost touching the plug again and was a pain to the plug off (not that you would need to do this all the time)

Don't worry about the header heat aimed towards the alternator, under that bonnet there aint alot of room but revving an engine to 8000rpm produces alot of heat :lol: and the heat can't really go anywhere, everything will get hot

Where I was holding it in place yesterday I had close to 2" from the plug spot to the header assuming I am going to use a 29" belt. (also this is a stock manifold..I haven't tried a aftermarket one.) I also thought maybe I could use a 29 1/2" (if they make those?) or a 30" belt and give the alternator a bit more of a tilt. I would have to see if that would leave the alternator leaning too far forward though..

Kam

06-09-2011, 07:54 PM

I would hazzard a wild guess you can get pretty much any size alternator belt you need, not sure how they are over there but over here if its say 6PK790 then thats 6 ribs and 790mm long

If you find you can get the length but not the ribbage :lol: then although some people on here might not recommend it I cut mine down, I needed 4PK750 (4 rib and 750mm length) but could only find 6PK750, they are about but I was rushing, so stuck a stanley knife through it and made it 4 ribs, job done with no issues here

Hario'

09-09-2011, 03:59 PM

RE: removing CV joints without damaging, an excellent technique a friend told me to do involved getting a spare car wheel on some bricks and feeding the driveshaft up the centre hole then standing on the rim and tugging the driveshaft up, releasing it from the CV without any damage, like a slide hammer.

Mini fab

10-09-2011, 01:05 AM

Shaky? well look away then, this was mine :lol:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/kambocars/Rio-tec%20build/altplugclose2.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/kambocars/Rio-tec%20build/altplugclose3.jpg

I had to snip the release tab a bit as it was about 3mm from the manifold, you can still clip it open with a small screwdriver, when I then put some manifold heat wrap on it was then almost touching the plug again and was a pain to the plug off (not that you would need to do this all the time)

Don't worry about the header heat aimed towards the alternator, under that bonnet there aint alot of room but revving an engine to 8000rpm produces alot of heat :lol: and the heat can't really go anywhere, everything will get hot

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09082011.jpg
Get one these alternator bracket that I produce. you can use 4pk 1160 for D engines.

Mini502

12-09-2011, 11:29 PM

Soooo it was off with the front bar. Its now moved down about an 1 3/4" which puts it about 3" higher than the oil pan. The alternator will now be mounted to the block itself and I for see having at least 2" if not more clearance from the header to the alternator when bolted on and tightened up. :cool:

Mini502

01-10-2011, 11:39 PM

Okay, it has been a pretty successful weekend. Shock mounts are now mounted, the 4th and final motor mount is finished, and the alternator assembly is done! Check err out.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2713.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2714.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2717.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2719.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2721.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2720.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2725.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2726.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2727.jpg
Ignore the extremely long bolts...its is all we had on site.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2722.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2723.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2724.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2729.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2730.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2731.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2728.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2732.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2733.jpg

wilp99

02-10-2011, 08:27 AM

Mini502

02-10-2011, 04:48 PM

arent you going to run a timing belt cover? on the d series it gets in the way of the alternator belt if you use the first pulley. unless youre going to take a chunk out of it. which wouldnt hurt i guess.

I will probably remove a chunk as you said, i dont see it being a huge piece though. I would say no cover isn't wise due to dirt and road debris, but we've all seen those "tuner" guys who rock no cover and some teal looking timing belt for show.

wilp99

02-10-2011, 07:25 PM

cool, take a few pics of the cover mod, so i know weather or not to notch the cover on the wifes estate.

Mini fab

03-10-2011, 10:08 AM

This is the notch I made fro my timing belt cover, not for the Alternator but for the A/C
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate034-1.jpg
this is the clearance I was running when I had the A/C
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/02192011001-1.jpg
:cool:

Mini502

10-10-2011, 11:10 PM

Quick Update: I ordered the lower arm pins and then realized a 1/2" shoulder bolt could be used instead of cutting up the lower arm pins to mount the the lower arms. The shoulder bolt in the picture isnt the correct size but was used to mock purposes. We will use a 1/4'' inch piece of steal to box in the other missing side for the lower arms. The tie bars were cut down a bit and threaded half way up the shaft to fit 1/2'' rose joints. They are too long at the moment but will be cut down when we decided where we want to mount them(the reason they are threaded so far). We then plan to drill a hole through the frame for the rose jointed end of the tie bars and weld in a 1/2" shoulder bolt and weld it on both sides of the frame to make it permanent. A spacer will be used to keep the rose joint from sitting directly against the frame.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2781.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2782.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2780.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2779.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2783.jpg

Mini502

28-10-2011, 08:22 PM

My mini is now back in the garage it started in and assembly will start soon. I decided to take the head of the D series because its mileage and condition were unknown. The head ended up going in for a clean up and valve job which I just got back today and the bottom end seems to be in good condition. I don't see any scarring on the cylinder walls nor any play as I turn it over. There is a lot of carbon build up but I will tend to that before I put the head back on. Ill probably replace the seal in the vtec solenoid, replace the water pump, and a few other general maintenance bologna before I turn the key

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/machinegunshoot11003.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/machinegunshoot11004.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0386.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0385.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/photo2.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/photo3.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/photo4.jpg

Kam

28-10-2011, 10:30 PM

Nice work, did you just get a valve job or go for a full P+P

Mini502

30-10-2011, 02:35 PM

Nice work, did you just get a valve job or go for a full P+P

I just got a valve job done for now. I still need to buy my brake setup so I am kinda saving for that at the moment.

Mini fab

02-11-2011, 03:03 AM

Mini502

02-11-2011, 04:33 AM

The tie bars are mounted differently then proposed in these pics. I will update when I put it back . Hopefully they are okay...

Kam

02-11-2011, 07:36 PM

Hopefully they are okay...

Ahhh yes, them words come up alot on here on a search :lol:

Looking good though, its nice to see stuff being made than being bought off the shelf

Mini502

19-11-2011, 08:21 PM

The mini has now been moved back into my garage. (it was wrapped in plastic because it was wet the day it was trailered over). Im still working on lighting so the pics are a bit gloomy. That is my new transmission. It has the M-factory LSD installed. The lower control arms are now correct and tie rods are now mounted but will of course need some fine tuning. Any opinions on how my turning radius will pan out? Does this mounting location look okay? I was going to get started on measuring the axles but that will have to be next week because the new bearing kits wont be here until then. Is there a company that makes uprated cv joints? My axles will be cut from a solid piece of chromoly and are kind of difficult to get and Ive been told that when a cv is striped out it tends to tear up the splines on the axles. That being said a uprated set of cv's would help me sleep easier.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_1863.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_1939.jpghttp://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_2746.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_5685.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_6874.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_6035.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMG_6848.jpg

wilp99

20-11-2011, 09:39 AM

Mini502

20-11-2011, 05:34 PM

have you tried to put the calipers and wheels on and see how much clearance you have between them and the tie bar? looks like youre going to have some clearance issues when you turn the wheels to full lock.

I will try that shortly but I am assuming they will hit at least enough to matter. would a more aggressive bend inwards weaken the strength of the tie rods? I know most aftermarket subframe kits have bent tie rods but im sure they aren't oem mini parts.

Kam

20-11-2011, 09:25 PM

There not, the allspeed ones are bent and to this day I don't know anyone on here who has had them snap or go wayward, and if it was ever to happen it would be recorded on here than anywhere else but nothing yet, even on a search nothing so Rob must be doing something right, aslong as they are made correctly then you should be fine

Other choice is some steering rack limiters like these CLICKY (http://www.kad-uk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=19) I'm running these on mine, three point turns are now four but I doubt you'll have that problem on a mini with your massive roads out there :lol:

I dare say you can make something up similar yourself

Mini502

27-11-2011, 07:38 PM

I threw up the calipers to check the turning radius and it appears I will have to put a slight bend in the left tie rod and a more aggressive one on the right. This shouldn't be to big of a problem I think because at this point I have the rose joints threaded all the way in so I will have enough thread left to play with comfortably.

I tackled my axle measurement today. I bought me a nice wooden broom stick handle for $3 and cut it to pieces. It is true that the axle shaft length does not change as you turn the hubs left or right. Its appears that the axle shaft does move in and out roughly a 1/2" as you compress the suspension. After asking all around town I finally found a guy here locally that makes axles on a regular basis. Apparently he does this out of his garage. My plan is to take my measurements to him and 2 bare Honda and 1 Mini axle shafts. He will cut the Honda shafts to my measurements, turn them down to the Mini's size and throw the splines on the end. It only took me about an hour to get my measurements which seems too easy?? Oh well I'll throw pics up later of my nice one piece wooden axles.:cool:

Mini502

27-11-2011, 10:57 PM

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/photo-1.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/photo1.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/photo2-1.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/photo3-1.jpg

wilp99

28-11-2011, 04:30 AM

lookin good. how much is he charging to put the splines on the civic axels? id like to send my extra set to him and have them done.

Mini502

28-11-2011, 01:04 PM

lookin good. how much is he charging to put the splines on the civic axels? id like to send my extra set to him and have them done.

He said his average price is about $75 each. I'm anxiously waiting on a call back from him, I'd like to get the car rolling again.

Kam

28-11-2011, 09:34 PM

It is true that the axle shaft length does not change as you turn the hubs left or right. Its appears that the axle shaft does move in and out roughly a 1/2" as you compress the suspension

Bear in mind your broomstick does not come with circlip ends on the splines :) I can't see on the picture if they are 'secured' in place? tap a couple of nails to hold the tripod section on the broom

Mini502

28-11-2011, 10:10 PM

Kam, good call but I did prepare for this:cool: If you look closely to the last pic there is a tiny screw at the base of the of the bearings. I also used some pipe tape in the splines to give it a little more to hold it in place. I will say though It made me a nervous wreck handing the axles and my measurements over today to the guy. Id hate to be wrong :loser: This guy had a pretty cool set up though. He had a mill and a lathe in a one car garage!

Kam

28-11-2011, 10:23 PM

Stuff like this is gonna be guesswork sometimes, but you should be fine

Also that suspension compressing stuff is ok as your tripod is gonna move laterally in the pot, I don't know about the D series but the B series ones have quite a bit of lateral movement, the pots are long

Mini502

28-11-2011, 11:34 PM

The lateral movement is going to be my saving grace. The D series pot I would estimate to be at least 3" deep. The way I saw it, there is kinda a lot of room for error. By a lot I mean close to 1/2". As long as that 1/2" isn't to long, which I accounted for.

Kam

29-11-2011, 12:01 AM

Thats the same size as the B series pots so theres plenty of give there, also your engine positioning plays a part in this aswell, mark up well where it sits now or when its in its final positioning just incase you remove it later and put it back in 1/2 inch or more to one side, realistically it shouldn't be that different when its out and goes back in but just to be on the safe side and all that

wilp99

29-11-2011, 05:05 AM

Mini502

29-11-2011, 06:49 PM

please let me know how much he charges you for the shafts, and take pics please. i may be sending a set his way to be done too. i have a us post office here on base (thank god), but ask him if he'd be willing to mail them back to me (cost the same as shipping to new york). and obviously id pay for shipping. I would really appreciate it.

The guy said he charges $125 a set. I am sure he wouldn't mind doing that for you. If all else fails you could always mail them to me and I could do the grunt work for you and mail them back. Ill get some pics up when I get them back.

wilp99

30-11-2011, 05:06 AM

nice, id really appreciate it.

hows the rest of the build going? wiring?

Mini502

30-11-2011, 10:58 PM

meh, My idea for wiring was to use a complete Honda loom, fuse box, trunk section, etc..(I have accumulated 3 of them) and just change clips here and there to mate up with all "necessary" mini components. (head and tail lights, etc..) I figured as long as I have the right size fuse supplying certain things I should be okay?? I haven't put much thought into that aspect yet for I am trying to get a rolling stopping chassis first since I think that is the more difficult part. Any cons to be thought of in just using the complete Honda loom?

wilp99

01-12-2011, 05:18 AM

nope. just alittle trickey to figure out the lights. if using mini switches. headlights, turn signals, hazards. but once its figured out it works good. normally on a series minis, the headlight switch gets hot and melts, as it is the relay for the headlights, with using the honda loom, its just a switch that turns on a relay, making it stay cool. the hazard lights on the honda loom have about 10 wires the mini one has 6, so you have to compare the wiring diagrams and figure out which wires do what. just a hint, it involves adding a 5 way relay to the turn indicator circuit. i would eliminate all un-necessary wiring (elec windows, locks, sunroof, 3rd brake light, abs (orange connectors), srs airbags (yellow connectors), etc. then de-pin them from the loom, this will cut the loom in half easily.

Mini502

01-12-2011, 04:37 PM

The indicator bit sounds tricky. Cutting the loom in half is good news though, there is a ridicules amount of wires. The loom shall be next:lol:

Mini502

01-02-2012, 01:03 PM

I've been super busy with school recently but I am starting to fit a shift linkage and tabs on the underside as well as a nice undercoating. I got my axles back and realized I wrote down the wrong measurement and was off by 1" on the right side...The left fits like it is OEM! I am waiting on a call back from the axle guy. He seems to be a busy fellow.

vfast

01-02-2012, 08:09 PM

Let me know how you get on with your gear linkage as i cant get reverse on mine i have to rethink it some pic of said linkage would be great

Kam

02-02-2012, 07:47 PM

I got my axles back and realized I wrote down the wrong measurement and was off by 1" on the right side...The left fits like it is OEM! I am waiting on a call back from the axle guy. He seems to be a busy fellow.

That sucks, but sh!t does happen, does that make you feel better? :lol:

I take it your holding off doing the wiring loom then or is that done?

Mini502

04-02-2012, 04:20 AM

Let me know how you get on with your gear linkage as i cant get reverse on mine i have to rethink it some pic of said linkage would be great

I shortened a linkage for a buddy of mine a few years back and he had the same problem, he couldn't find reverse. We figured out that the problem was because the bar that hooks to the shift pin (real technical lingo) was slightly to long. It fit in but upon taking it apart it required a bit of force which went away once we shortened it. Ill get pics up as soon as I feel confident about it.

That sucks, but sh!t does happen, does that make you feel better? :lol:

I take it your holding off doing the wiring loom then or is that done?

A little better Kam lol. That's what I keep telling myself. If I get mad at it that won't solve my problem... I fiddled with the loom I had and realized I was miss the entire engine harness so I just threw it back in the shed. I decided that will be my last order of business.

Kam

04-02-2012, 10:10 PM

Blimey your not having much luck at the mo :shock:

Chin up! :cool:

Mini502

15-02-2012, 10:00 PM

Let me know how you get on with your gear linkage as i cant get reverse on mine i have to rethink it some pic of said linkage would be great

vfast, I think one of your bars of your shift linkage is to long. That may be why you can't find reverse. I would say its the bar on the shifter itself.

Mini502

15-02-2012, 10:06 PM

Hey fellos quick opinion question. I have been busy with this linkage. I am thinking I should weld in the honda linkage holder (see pic) a few inches back for I am a taller fello and I will be putting my seat back all the way. Also the OEM Honda shifter is shorter than the mini one. I am just trying to make sure I am comfortable driving and that I don't have to be all up on the shifter to use it. Any suggestions? Did anyone else move their shifter back?
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0554.jpg

vfast

16-02-2012, 02:16 AM

I have mine back that far no problem i had no reverse at one time but turned out to be the bolt i was using stuck the pin in there all was good

wilp99

16-02-2012, 05:50 AM

not sure if id bring it that far back.. 2nd and reverse could get in the way of the seats. mine comes pretty close (about 2 inches) and mine is basically square in the stock hole.

nice one :lol:

Mini502

16-02-2012, 03:04 PM

I have mine back that far no problem i had no reverse at one time but turned out to be the bolt i was using stuck the pin in there all was good

So that was your problem lol. At least it was a simple fix.

not sure if id bring it that far back.. 2nd and reverse could get in the way of the seats. mine comes pretty close (about 2 inches) and mine is basically square in the stock hole.

nice one :lol:

Okay ill move it up a bit. I'm just trying to compensate for my shorter shifter because the original mini one was so long... I tried to sit in there and where the shifter will land in the stock hole leaves me feeling like my legs need to be shortened. I'm 6'1"

vfast

16-02-2012, 03:53 PM

This is one of the nicer problems they throw at us set your seat and steering wheel then gear lever also keep your seat as low as pos
minis are a nightmare when your 6"1
throw the front seats out sit in the back lol

wilp99

16-02-2012, 04:53 PM

im 6'1" too. but im 1/2 black so i have retardely long arms.. just kidding.. its actually in a perfect place on mine.

Mini502

16-02-2012, 07:06 PM

im 6'1" too. but im 1/2 black so i have retardely long arms.. just kidding.. its actually in a perfect place on mine.

Okay I have longer arms as well so im going to put it an inch off stock.:cool:

Kam

16-02-2012, 07:28 PM

You can keep the stick and your seat that far back if you want, it won't make a blind bit of difference PROVIDING your passenger seat is at the same position

If you got short passengers then they will need to suck it up and sit that far back, if they moan then find some longer passengers :lol:

Mini502

19-02-2012, 04:17 PM

Kam

19-02-2012, 08:58 PM

Make sure you got your handbrake in aswell, best to find out now before you drill it in too far back

Xmas supposedly only comes once a year.......

wilp99

19-02-2012, 09:13 PM

Kam it's funny you say that because I actually notice that short passenger tend to scoot their chairs all up on the dash. You'd think they would want as much room as possible..

Quick update, I ordered all my brake components, calipers, rotors, etc. so next week is christmas in FEB! Still waiting on the axle guy though. He has my new measurement, I'm just waiting for the call "HELLO, come get this thing." I guess I'll put a lick on the linkage again today.

ive noticed this too.. every car ive ever been in.. almost pisses me off, having to scoot the seat back. im always, asking why the hell would you scoot the seat up? i mean, i can see if they had kids or something, but nope.. just no ef-in reason.. this happens to be one of my pet peeves.. that and people asking me if ive seen that movie and i say no, and they say again "YOU HAVENT SEEN THAT MOVIE" i just said fucking no.. wtf sorry.. theres a small smidgen inside the mind of wil..

Mini502

20-02-2012, 01:53 AM

I finished my shift linkage today. Here it is in action. I would have shown pics of me making it but there was a lot of trial and error involved. I used one and a half complete linkages from a D-series.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSDrR3-V-4E&feature=youtu.be

wilp99

20-02-2012, 10:30 AM

so you removed reverse? did you say theres no reverse cause theres nothing there?

Mini502

20-02-2012, 03:06 PM

No it's there I just didn't think I could find it without everything being hooked up. I just assumed.

Mini502

20-02-2012, 03:08 PM

ive noticed this too.. every car ive ever been in.. almost pisses me off, having to scoot the seat back. im always, asking why the hell would you scoot the seat up? i mean, i can see if they had kids or something, but nope.. just no ef-in reason.. this happens to be one of my pet peeves.. that and people asking me if ive seen that movie and i say no, and they say again "YOU HAVENT SEEN THAT MOVIE" i just said fucking no.. wtf sorry.. theres a small smidgen inside the mind of wil..

Haha yeah it drives me nuts. Sometimes ill get in and not realize the seat is so far up until we start going them im like GD who was sitting here??

wilp99

20-02-2012, 07:19 PM

No it's there I just didn't think I could find it without everything being hooked up. I just assumed.

what needs to be hooked up. if you can get 1st thru 5th you should be able to select reverse.

Kam

22-02-2012, 08:04 PM

Wilp I think he might of meant he assumed he couldn't get reverse without having the engine/box/pedals all hooked up and working, like you say if he's got 1-5 he's got reverse

Jeffreypang911

22-02-2012, 08:34 PM

Shifter looks a bit forward, have you tried it with a seat in yet? Sounds tight though!

wilp99

23-02-2012, 06:31 AM

looks lite the shifter is on backwards. good progress tho. always feels good when you get a piece like that to work.

Mini502

26-02-2012, 02:05 PM

I went for reverse and it's there. I shouldn't make assumptions:oops:. Great progress this weekend though. I had 4 buddies over to help flip the car back on its roof again. It is definitely a scary thing when the guy on the other side says "stop stop hold on my and is slipping" we managed though. We welded tabs on either side, 24 total. The bigger side is for vent and return and the smaller side is for brake lines. They are slightly bigger than the lines because I want to put grommets around them. Don't mind my friend.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0587.jpg
After the tabs were welded on we went to the bottom with brush cups. We removed a lot of the rattle can primer and scuffed all the surface area to ensure good adhesion of the undercoating. The undercoating I used is for parts that actually get submerged in water so I think it's safe to assume the rain and road will be no match for my floors:cool: I am hoping this coating also keeps the road noises down.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0583.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0582.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0584.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0586.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0588.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0591.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0592.jpg

This stuff had to be stirred vigorously for 10 minutes at 77 degrees so it could sweat together so we put it on a board on top of the heater and took turns stirring. I could really tell a difference in the consistency when the 10 minutes was up.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0593.jpg

The finished product!

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0594.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0595.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0596.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0597.jpg

I forgot to snap pics but I did mount my gas tank again. It fits like a glove. Now I am just waiting on my order from Mini Sport. Next on the agenda is to put the mini back on its feet again for the first time in over a year! Run gas and brake lines and start the dreaded wiring....yippeee...not. I'm so close I can taste it.

Mini502

26-02-2012, 02:11 PM

Wilp I think he might of meant he assumed he couldn't get reverse without having the engine/box/pedals all hooked up and working, like you say if he's got 1-5 he's got reverse

Kam, that's what I assumed..lol

Shifter looks a bit forward, have you tried it with a seat in yet? Sounds tight though!

I haven't tried it with the seats but I am confident that it won't hit because I put this shifter in almost the exact same spot as the original A series shifter. I dare not put the infamous pin in yet for I can never get them out..

looks lite the shifter is on backwards. good progress tho. always feels good when you get a piece like that to work.

It probably is. I am just glad it works the first time around

wilp99

26-02-2012, 08:41 PM

lookin good

Jeffreypang911

27-02-2012, 01:18 AM

What are those rings for? Looks good- just don't get that stuff on your hands. i had black fingers for days!!

Mini502

27-02-2012, 01:32 AM

What are those rings for? Looks good- just don't get that stuff on your hands. i had black fingers for days!!

The big rings are for vent and return and the smaller ones are for brake lines. I doubled gloved when applying the undercoating. I came out spotless.

wilp99

27-02-2012, 05:57 PM

i used a 2 part truck bed liner for the wifes estate like 3 years ago, still good as new. i used the one stage apply and dry type to mine and its already peeling 1 year later. guess ill be re-doing that when i get back to the states.:lol:

Mini502

28-02-2012, 10:37 PM

wilp its funny you say that because I was playing around with a 1 part liner before I settled on this stuff. I tried the 1 part on a few practice pieces and it just wasn't think enough for my liking. Oh and Wilp can you measure the distance between your firewall and the front of your clubman. Inside area pretty please?

wilp99

29-02-2012, 07:41 AM

sure thing. i should have plenty of room to do it tonight as im pulling my motor.. again. but hopefully for the last time.

Mini502

01-03-2012, 10:22 PM

sure thing. i should have plenty of room to do it tonight as im pulling my motor.. again. but hopefully for the last time.

Sounds good. I am trying to get a estimate on the front end situation.

Mini502

07-03-2012, 12:53 PM

Well I took a look at the wiring....what a mess. After and hour I realized that I was missing the under the hood fuse box lol der der der. It also appears the last owner cut up a bunch of wires. I think I am going to have to get another harness. Mini Sport is giving me the run around for some reason. I ordered what I need to finish this beast a week and and half ago and they still haven't shipped it even though they said it was ready 4 days ago and I'm paid in full.

wilp99

08-03-2012, 08:30 PM

ok i finally measured it for you.. that sounds alittle gay.. anyways, its 21" from the front of the firewall hump to the inner lip of the front panel of the clubman front. heres a link to my photobucket you cant see the actual measurements but you can see where im talking about. http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u276/wilp99/

Mini502

09-03-2012, 04:17 AM

wilp99

09-03-2012, 05:44 AM

if youre going clubman space will not be much of a problem.

Mini502

09-03-2012, 02:40 PM

Kam

10-03-2012, 02:15 AM

The clubman has grown on me. Plus, I want a boosted D series and I think the clubman offers the most space. I don't really want an extended round nose although no one here would even know the difference. 95% of the people I talk to didn't even know that there was a mini before the current one.

lmfao! quality!

Some clubby pics to get you more wet

http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17754&highlight=clubby

Mini502

11-03-2012, 08:59 PM

LOL Kam, I'm pretty set on the clubby but I can't find the metal front pieces cheap enough. I might end up going with the molded 2 piece fiber front. (hood and front) Any suggestions or opinions on the metal vs fiber?

Anyways I've been really busy this weekend. I put a goal to start this thing at 2 weeks from today.

Lots of pics. Enjoy.

My dad turned my flywheel for me. It looks great. It also got a new bearing.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0636.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0643-1-1.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0644-1.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0645-1.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0646-1.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0653-1.jpg

Putting this motor in by myself is a pain in the rear, but I managed.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0655-1.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0656-1.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0657.jpg

I spent about 30 minutes cleaning the surface of the block for the head.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0660.jpg

Putting these head studs in was probably the most time consuming thing I did. 3 holes were either gommed up or had damaged threads. Lucky for me I realized this 7 minutes before the local auto parts place closed so I had just enough time to get there and get a tap set. I spent another hour fixing the threads before I was sure they were 100% ready to accept the studs. The last thing I want to do is start the car and have to do another head gasket.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0662.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0663.jpg

One last peek at the clean valves..

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0664.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0665.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0666.jpg

Now that everything is settling in its final resting place it appears the intake manifold wont go on. I had to break out the tools and give it a little cut. Ill clean it up later.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0672.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0674.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0673.jpg

It fits now.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0676.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0677.jpg

My order from Minisport will be here tomorrow. I'll throw on the rear brakes, subframe and suspension and start sorting the fuel lines. I think I am going to put off wiring until the very last thing...

k20/k24 allmotor

11-03-2012, 09:09 PM

it look good.

Mini502

13-03-2012, 07:18 PM

[QUOTE=k20/k24 allmotor;269912]it look good.[/QUOTE

Thanks, it's really getting there now. Amazing what you can do when you are hyped:p...

Ohh and my order finally got here:cool:

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0691.jpg

I decided my valve cover was ugly so I did a nice wrinkle paint job to it. I still have to clean the paint off the HONDA letters but I want it to dry really good before I do.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0690.jpg

Mini fab

14-03-2012, 09:08 AM

good job!

Mini502

17-03-2012, 02:51 AM

good job!
Thanks!

I finished the valve cover and it now looks the way I wanted it too. After 2 hours of baking at 200 degrees (1 then cool, 1 then cool) it is rock hard. Threw it on.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/mini%202/IMAG0694.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/mini%202/IMAG0695.jpg

Mini502

21-03-2012, 09:15 PM

Quick update, apparently the guy making my other axle needed the cv and lost my number. It had been a little over three weeks and I hadn't heard anything so I gave him a shout. Blah that puts the axle at least another week out. I have ran my brake to the back and I stopped in the front at the 3 way to each caliper because I need to have the axles and all tightened down before I fit the flanges for the braided lines to the calipers.

The bubble flare or whatever it is called on most of these mini brake parts are a pain. I have bought 1 tool myself and borrowed another and I still can't duplicate the factory bubble. The bias valve in the front is very specific I guess, either that or old and picky because every other brake part requiring a bubble flare has also accepted my double flare with no issues. I ran a tap in the hole and used a new tube nut and it still strips the threads out of the tube nut when trying a double flare like I had been using.

I ended up cutting a 6" inch piece out of the original lines that came with the car, screwed it in the bias valve and put a double flare fitting on the other end and went from there. A little table cloth trick haha no one will pay attention to the piggy back unless they know what to look for.

I plumbed the clutch line and it works like a champ, It's a bit stiff though. Up next are fuel lines and fitting a front end. I want to fit the clubman ST front from ABS Motorsport, but if the shipping doesn't come down a bit I will buy new metal panels from minisport because they would be the same price at that point....

Kam

21-03-2012, 09:28 PM

You've still got the original mini clutch master haven't you? I think people have found its a hard pedal with that, I think you can bore out the slave cylinder to compensate but you need to do a search on here first.....

I know you've sorted the brake lines now but over here if we aint got any fandoogle brake flaring kits we just buy the brake line pipes from minispares as they come pre-flared and the right lengths which are all good to go

Still, I'm loving this pic

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/mini%202/IMAG0695.jpg

:cool: apart from the slight toe out on the driver side :lol: :p

wilp99

22-03-2012, 05:19 AM

are you using metric ends for the brakes? they need to be unf. metric is close but will not work.

Mini502

22-03-2012, 01:02 PM

are you using metric ends for the brakes? they need to be unf. metric is close but will not work.

Yep, im using unf. I think another part of the problem is the fittings from Minisport were aluminum or some type of mild steel. I got my hands on a few brass tube nuts and it seems to have done the trick I'm now trying to find a place to to put a banjo fitting on my fuel line. What a run around...

Kam, yeah yeah rub it in, no Minisport here.. Boring out the slave is interesting, ill do a search then hit up Google. I want to eventually get a pedal kit so I can customize my touch but that's a bit out of my budget for now. I'm hoping to come across a used one for a steal

Mini502

09-04-2012, 10:32 PM

Okay I did a quick walk around of my mini. I've been super busy with it. Axles are done. Let me just say greasing them and putting boot ties on is messy and super aggravating but I kept at it. I ran into the tie rod problem again and that will have to be re-designed for sure. I don't exactly know what to do yet but it's definitely a hold up. I have a few ideas but I'll mention those later when I post up pics of my problem.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fwrmLPEUOY&feature=youtu.be[youtube]

kcchan

09-04-2012, 10:42 PM

I forgot that you were American, then I heard your voice haha. It's looking good. Is it all in primer? What colour is it eventually going to be?

Mini502

09-04-2012, 10:51 PM

Haha yeah I exaggerated the country accent a few times, you can tell where. It is all in self etch right now. I plan on mounting my radiator just for function purposes before I fit the front end (when ever either get here). I want to make sure everything is going to work before I make it a betch to work on. Like will something break?? Paint is on the back burner for now but I plan on making it black on black on black.

Mini502

10-04-2012, 12:41 AM

Just went to FedEx to pick up the package I missed. I have a lot of things in the mail right now so I didn't know what it was going to be until I got there.... It was my GRILL YO. I got this perty thing from ebay.uk. Now I just need the front end to come in the mail....

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0735.jpg

Mini502

23-04-2012, 10:29 PM

Since I am using Honda gauges a new dash is needed. This dash is made from a piece of walnut. The gauge cover was taken off and cut down to make it sit flat against a surface to be mounted. It is stained but not cleared, but looks great already. My dad gave me the board and he and his buddy did the work. All the mounting hardware and hinges are from the dash that came in the car. The old dash was used as a stencil.

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0754.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0755.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0756.jpg
Lucky for me the gauges came with a half a tank of gas:D
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0757.jpg
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i396/jwissing/IMAG0758.jpg