Calling all you suspension/steering tech heads!!

Hi..I'm fitting a single cam Honda D16A7 (Rover 416 Gsi) into an unextended round nose..(the 1275 GTs been shelved as I just got a great MK2 shell) and I've been playing with the subframe today, got the outputs to line up but I've got to move the rack back about 25mm to clear the diff. I'm going to move the whole front heel board back, therefore keeping the rack the same height and mod the pedals.

Opinions needed: I was wondering about using A series Metro steering arms as these are about 25mm longer than mini ones, does anyone think this will alter the steering geometry adversely. I had a 'pub convo' with a mate who builds Miglias and we reckoned it should work...anyone got any ideas!!

Gaz

[strudel]

This is obviously the problem with RHD and the Honda tranny protruding back too far. Not an issue in LHD.

This may not help but rather than moving the whole sloped floor( I assume that is the heel board) back, could you not just cut the rack mount out and insert it towards the inside? Or would the rack's rubber boots then rub on the car?

I found that even when using the Honda rack in mine I could put a one inch square tube between it and the tranny on a LHD car. So in my case left/right is not an issue as I could mount LHD/RHD and not have an issue. Mind you the rack sits lower than the original Mini one and I am using all Honda front end. If you lower the rack mounting point the distance would increase slightly as you are moving down and back.

As long as the connections keep the same distance (width wise) the car would hopefully stay in spec. Using Metro arms may work as the length would move the rack backwards. Because of the different length do they also narrow the side to side distance? The tie rod ends adjustability should take care of this. I don't know if any of this helps as I'm just trying to brainstorm and see if anything might make sense or help. Let me know if I'm dreaming in la la land?? JS

Hi strudel

Thanks for your input. The metro arms do also compensate for the different angle.

My original idea was to weld half a tube across the floor to mount the rack into, but I'd still have to mod the pedals. I was also considering using the metro rack and modifying the column..(i have carried this out before to fit metro controls into a mini and it's not too hard.

[strudel]

What causes the mod for the pedals? Would they then hit the tube you are inserting?

I will have to raise the front 1 to 2 inches of the floor about 1 inch to accommodate the CRX crossmember I am using. The anti sway bar gets in the way. As I have to replace the floor anyway and strengthen it for a different mount point I can prefab it out of the car and then weld in the entire strengthened unit.

As soon as I complete the mounting system for the crossmember I will put up more pictures on my web page. I don't know which pedal system to use yet, Mini or Honda, whatever works the easiest I suppose.

Let us know how you make out with the mod as others are in the same predicament. JS

[duck]

I would be interested to hear about the solution you decide to use.

I am fed up waiting for AMT so once I get the rear subframe/suspension sorted I will start to look at making my own frame, I'm sure I will have to figure out a way to move/modify the rack mountings.

[jamob]

I would also be interested in the solution! as im thinking of putting a D16 dohc in mine.
Cheers
Jamo

[Pete D16]

Hi,

I,m using D16 A9 aswell, std. nose, std subframe base... i assume, like me, you have rotated the rack a bit to have got as close as 25mm to ideal, I am wondering if an early Metro or Rover Metro rack would fit in the usual place and if so, whether the column/rack joint might have a bit more offset and not interfere with the diff. .. only thought of it today, anybody think it might work? Incidently, my inner pot joints are 15mm away from the back of the oval hole the shafts go through, how are yours?I,m reluctant to modify rack fixing point and might go with the 25mm out of line, late Cooper driveshafts are 10mm forward ( engine moved forward for extra injection manifold clearance, my Golf diesel,s are at least 25mm out as are Rover Metro,s and by shaving a few millimetres off the base of the exhaust manifold mating face, running out to nothing removed at the top, the manifold should kick in enough to get the grill
on.

[duck]

A bit un-conventional but why not cut a bit of the diff casing ? just enough to save a few mm's.

I'll have a look to see how much I can shave off the diff casing!

strudel> I have to mod the pedals as moving the rack into the car effectively loses me 25mm of pedal travel, but thats easily over come, I've got to mod the clutch pedal for cable anyway!

I'm not keen on running the shafts too far off centre as they are very short when keeping mini suspension, and any misalignment is magnified the shorter the shafts.

On another silly note....I might just keep it hydro! depends on if I can get s displacers!

Bought the paint today...getting a bit previous I know but I got a great deal on Glasurit stuff...

Colour scheme will be....Britax Cooper from the 60's...retro hondapwer!


Gaz

[duck]

What is the distance from the driveshaft center line and the back of the diff (the bit that hits the rack) on a D16A7 ?

Just wondering if it is the same as the gearbox/diff from the B16A, I have just measured mine (gearbox that is :roll: ) and it is 4" from the center of the driveshaft and the back of the diff casing.

Thanks

[strudel]

Duck, FWIW the distance from centre of driveshaft to rear of diff case on my D16A1 DOHC is 4.5". From the diff case to the heel board is 2". If you draw a line straight down from the top of rack mount(roughly where the bolt inserts) it would be approximately how far back the rear of the diff case sits. That's if I have everything lined up and I may still be off about 1/2".

Gaz, If you are replacing the heel board, which I may still have to do, are you just buying a new one and mounting it back or prefabbing your own?

I must rotate the engine around the axle axis so it doesn't hit the left front fender/bonnet line. If I lift the engine up from the front 1/4 - 1/2" I get a good 1/2 clearance. The problem with this is it causes one motor mount to rotate out of square and must be modified to the correct angle.

If I move the heel board back, as I have to modify part of it anyway, then I could move the whole works back and not have to rotate/tilt the engine.

Change one thing and a hundred other problems turn up!! JS