r1 thoughts

[blister]

i have been having a good look on here considering the r1 fwd conversion,

had a good read of this and few thoughts have struck me he wanted to get it into a round nose to begin with but settle with the clubman. Why didnt he just whack out the cross bar at the back of the subframe and mount his craddle slightly further back, would that not have been possible?

http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22883&highlight=r1

[Birdman]

PM Colin to find out. He's a nice bloke.

I think you will find that the R1 Engine is designed to run at a certain angle + maybe changing the angle of the powertrain puts the sprocket carrier underneath closer to the ground.

[blister]

i never thought about that.

because the frame looks simple enough U shaped craddle and some mounts hmmmm even if the rear of the subframe was hacked out then it could be moved back and maybe a little bulkhead box would make it be able to be raised up etc

[Minicooper]

i have been having a good look on here considering the r1 fwd conversion,

had a good read of this and few thoughts have struck me he wanted to get it into a round nose to begin with but settle with the clubman. Why didnt he just whack out the cross bar at the back of the subframe and mount his craddle slightly further back, would that not have been possible?

http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22883&highlight=r1

It's not the engine thats the problem it's the steering rack and diff clearance, this is what limits how far back the engine/diff can go. If your happy to remount racks and stuff you may get enough room.

Cheers
David

[blister]

hmm, what angle does the engine have to sat at?

i am considering giving it a go, there is a frame in bromley but my daily run around is having 2 day break so i can fit coilovers and negative camber so i cant collect it till saturday,

my idea is to remove the front of my car, cut the front beam off the subframe and do what you did minicooper

couldnt the diff be smaller and have you got any more information on it?

[Minicooper]

The diff itself is small enough Quaife atb, it's the sprocket and chain that add up, I used a 40 tooth sprocket which I think would of been to highly geared so a 45 probably more realistic and that measures 9" dia.

I had already cut out the rear part of the subframe aswell to give maximun possible clearance, it's just so tight so that's why I added 90mm to the front. It is possible just to get it in a standard round front but it is very very tight

Cheers
David

[blister]

so a smaller sprocket might allow for the engine to go further back thus giving that little bit more room and it wont be as tight,

just looking on qualifes site any other places sell them i am having a rumage on google

[Minicooper]

I would say 42~43 is about the smallest you can go, otherwise the final drive ratio is too high, meaning the car is too highly geared to be effective.

You don't need to go to an expensive Quaife diff, an ordinary escort fiesta open diff will do if money is tight and an lsd diff is not required

Cheers
David

[blister]

is there a online caluclator to work out the best gear ratio?..

you mention the fiesta diff got any info i just googled it and it came up with qualife!

[Minicooper]

This is the quaife escort/fiesta based diff

http://www.quaife.co.uk/catalogue/products/qdf7zr

If your looking for a cheaper option, find a escort/fiesta gearbox at your local scrapyard, it could be any make of diff of course but I know sealed bearings are available in standard sizes for the escort/fiesta diff which helps

Cheers
David

[blister]

thanks mate,

quick tally up of bits then

mini subframe (modded)
motorbike engine
sprocket and chain

[Allan McD]

I think you may need drive shafts.
Allan

[blister]

oh yeah

and a fuel pump
am i right in thinking you cannot use the original mini speedo?

[Minicooper]

You will need

mini subframe (modded)
motorbike engine and all ancillaries, carbs/injection, wiring loom, ecu, fuel pump. etc
sprockets and heavy duty chain
The Diff and inner CV's
Sealed bearing carriers for the diff
Driveshafts
Custom or modified and uprated radiatior
Custom or modified gearchange
Custom throttle cable
Custom choke cable for carbs only
Custom clutch operating lever assembly
Air filter and backplate
Baffle plate for the engine, highly recomended
Custom exhaust, including headers
Dynojets for carbs or powercommander for fuel injection
Rolling road session
Set of clocks and clock loom for dashboard information
Wad of cash for increased insurance
Possible IVA implications depending on how you do it, another £450 plus automatic Q reg


Needless to say the rest of the car should be spot on mechanically, uprated tyres, uprated suspension, uprated brakes

Cheers
David

[blister]

that is a perfect list you got right there!

time to start spending once my mind is set up on where to put the engine, insurance isnt to bad its about £25 more i confirmed with my insurance provider,

happy to say i have finally sold my full supercharger kit and have got a few bits left,

i am looking out for a r1 that is repairs or for spares, as i believe that is best,

i am going to weight up the price differences in engine in the front or in the back and weight up benefits of each installation

thank you all guys all been a good help

[Allan McD]

The engine in the fornt for a road car or the rear for a race car.
If you want to do both then you need to decide whats most important space or performance ?
Allan

[blister]

space isnt a problem at all the car not worried at all aslong as two people can sit inside of it.

is just going to be a little different driving a rear wheel drive mini, not sure what to expect do they even feel like minis? when the engine is in the back?

if i go rear wheel drive i would love to get a rwd autograss, and do a bit of sorting

[blister]

something turned up today for a price i just could not refuse, anyone want to guess what it is, even if i dont use it in the end i will get my money back and more