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23-01-2004, 04:52 PM
Hi there,
My name is Roy...new in the forum.. i've just let go of my scooby & now finally i can build my long time awated v-tec mini.. i got a 77' minor 1000 (just waiting for this... :D ) so i wanted to ask your help out regarding any tips & tricks... should i go for b16 or b18? please teach this newbie the basics :wink:

Cheers, Roy

MINIMOKE
23-01-2004, 05:06 PM
Hi Roy,
Welcome to the Forum.I chose the b16 because you can use the intake manifold thats on that motor.If you go for the b18,you will have to change the manifold because it slopes downward and it will hit the firewall.
The b18c5 motor will work out of a type r as it has a manifold much like the b16.good luck with your build.

Minimoke

strudel
23-01-2004, 07:19 PM
Minimoke, Are you putting the B16 in a standard nose Mini? If so could you post a picture of the IM of the B so that I could see the difference in the slope that you talk about. I would like to compare it to my D16A1 IM.

I guess if I hunt around on one of the Honda boards I could probably find one. Just confirm it will miss the frame mount bulkhead? JS

23-01-2004, 08:04 PM
hi Roy,

I'd go for a B16 because they are easier to find, can be tuned up easily (equal to the B18 power) and are cheaper. Plus remember that this car will be only front wheel drive, so you wouldn't want much more power than 200bhp, which is accessible with a B16.

a scooby driver tried to overtake after following me out of a junction, the look on his face was :shock: then :oops:

good luck with the build.

MINIMOKE
23-01-2004, 08:33 PM
Strudel,
I'm using the b16a motor in my clubby.If you go with a subframe kit that will fit under a stock mini,you will have to have a custom intake made up.Give me your e mail address and I'll find some photos to forward you.

Minimoke

strudel
23-01-2004, 10:10 PM
Minimoke, Thanks, that would be great. Check it's a Clubby, that would make a big difference. E-mail's in the bottom of the post signature but here it is:

avistar@telusplanet.net

24-01-2004, 10:08 AM
first of all..thanks guys for your help!! i really need it..i'm from Israel which means project wise that i gotta do it all by myself.
MINIMOKE, i have an option to buy 1.8 type-r , correct me if i'm wrong, i should check it's a c5 and if so take it? btw, i prefer the b18 over the b16 but i'm looking for "no hustle" installation :?
about the frame kit, i'm aiming for Andy's kit which requires no ext. nose as i understood..
last question plz, what about the brakes & coilovers?


p.s. Nij.. STi vs V-Tec Mini.. bye bye STi right? :)

Colin.ab
24-01-2004, 10:24 AM
I chose the b16 because you can use the intake manifold thats on that motor.If you go for the b18,you will have to change the manifold because it slopes downward and it will hit the firewall.


Its only members with B16's that seem to perpetuate this rumour. A B18 manifold *Will* fit. Look in the photos section and you can see. A B18 manifold in the States must be different to a European spec car. I have a freind who is installing one at the moment - standard not Type R.

Mine is a standard(ish) B18C6 Type R, and it fits in without changing the manifold, or anything else. I have a Watson Frame, with a 90mm extended steel front. – I have S/S tubular headers.

I have been watching all the posts about standard front v extended steel front, and I can’t see what all the fuss is about?

Given that the whole project is not an easy conversion to start with, why make it anymore difficult for yourself by fitting this engine in to an already tight space?

Making the front of your car 90mm longer or not is not a difficult thing to do given the scale of rest of the project and is completely missed by 99.9% of the other road users, you hardly ever see a Mini on the road in England nowadays. (Complete rarity in the States I would think)

I recently took mine on a 3,800-mile trip round Europe with 85 other Minis, and most of them could not tell that the car was longer until I pointed out where it had been cut.

C.ab

duck
24-01-2004, 12:02 PM
Standard or extended front boils down to personel choice, you could debate it all day long, similar to the pointless question which is best VTEC or Vauxhall engine conversion.

I would have to disagree with the point about extending the front not being difficult, maybe for a professional bodywork person it would be easy but for a person doing all of the work themselves with a limited budget this would be very difficult, it would mean many hours of work getting the front to look ok i.e you would need welding skills, bodywork skills, loads of time spent aligning the front so that it looks ok then of course the extra expense of a re-paint, the chances are a complete respray would be needed.
I have been waiting for AMT frame because not having the extra expense of extending the front will make the difference between being able to do this project and not being able to do it.

PaulC
24-01-2004, 03:53 PM
I like the sound of your plans Darren :D Would they invole a different mini to the one that you have, or swap a 1.6 vtec for a 1.8 vtec in your clubman?

Paul C

Colin.ab
24-01-2004, 10:31 PM
This single joint is the extent of specialist bodwork required to lengthen the front by 90mm.
http://www.watsonsrally.co.uk/4691.jpghttp://www.watsonsrally.co.uk/4689.jpg
Part of the original wing is left on, This allows lengthening with only one joint. The new wing is tucked under the old by 2", and seam welded. less than £100's worth of panels + paint.

The profile of the wheel arch is also slightly modified to accomatate the sports pack arches - This would also be required on a standard front.

I would have thought, to use use a AMT Honda frame, would also require the front to be removed, unless you use Clubman. if nothing else than to ease installation of the frame and bars. Maz would know this as he's seen the prototype one.

This is my standard UK spec B18C6 Type R with its factory manifold in place. The cam cover was changed due to the engine being on fire in its previous life, damage can still be seen on the melted plug cover.
http://www.16vminiclub.com/gallery/albums/userpics/My%20Mini%20Engine%20at%20Combe.jpg
Space is tight, even when extended by 90mm, this engine could be put in a normal round front, but the exhaust headers, Frame and alternator would protrude through the front panel. You'd also need a large bulge in the bonnet, as the B18 is taller than the B16, Tony's Type R I believe, is a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) spec engine, not a UK Type R, this may explain where the difference lies.

DW
25-01-2004, 12:25 PM
Would they invole a different mini to the one that you have, or swap a 1.6 vtec for a 1.8 vtec in your clubman?

Not quite decided yet (depends on frames available at the time!).

Just collecting the parts at the moment(should be buying the engine shortly and I think I will buy the inlet now). I will not be able to start the build for another year anyway due to work pressures.


Thanks Colin for the info on 1.8 inlets - cheers.

DarrenW

25-01-2004, 03:16 PM
JDM-Japanese Domestic Market! :lol:

Ive heard some crackers, Japanese developed Motor, Japanese derived Motor, Japanese Developed Manifolds etc etc etc :lol:

BassAddict
26-01-2004, 07:18 AM
Looks like the B18C6 manifold is quite a lot different from the (non-TypeR) B18C4 - the C4 manifold curves down ALOT at the back and could well hit the bulkhead !
I'll try and take some decent photos of it this week as I've got to dismantle is anyway !
Rich

MINIMOKE
26-01-2004, 01:05 PM
Strudel,
Take a look at these photos on E- bay.Here are the two item #'s
2455850886 & 2456183401
You can see the b16a manifold sweeps upwards as the b18c goes downwards.

Minimoke

g
26-01-2004, 01:10 PM
or 2456051153

26-01-2004, 02:35 PM
Guys, i'm confused... buttom line.. what does it mean installation wise if i purchase the b18 TypeR engine?

MINIMOKE
26-01-2004, 02:55 PM
Roy,
If the engine is a true type r motor,it will have the same intake as the one posted on this subject.The one with the red valve cover.So i would compare the one you can get to the one pictured .

27-01-2004, 12:11 PM
MINIMOKE,
Got it mate.. i'll keep it in mind! ..and i'll have to extend the nose right?
Colin, thanks a bunch for the clear photos!
what about the other parts? what more do i need to prepare?
MUCH APPRECIATED! :lol:

27-01-2004, 02:20 PM
Do you know,a B16a (150hp) can be transformed in B16b(Civic Ek type r 185hp).
Rod,camshaft,valve,manifold,springvalve and ecu are different.
The camshaft of B18c(Itr)in a B16 have good résult too.

27-01-2004, 03:47 PM
b16a1=150hp crx 2nd gen mecanic clutch
b16a2=160hp crx delsol (civic vti eg6) hydraulic clutch