V-tec or not to V-tec [Archive] - 16v Mini Club Forums

Mini fab

11-07-2009, 02:34 PM

Good day I'm a newbee here in the forum and I'm from Manila , Philippines
Really had nice time reading a lot of forums here and was really inspired by a lot of your projects. I own 4 Minis here but a little problem with the original Mini Engine and wishes to convert to a Honda D 15. I hope we could share a lot in this 16V club to help me on some of my inquiry.

Honda engine choices here locally is vast but I prefer the D15.. since I wouldn't be extending my front end.

First question is .. does the original brake set up of a 1996 Mini is enough to stop a D 15 transplant?

and is there a standard size measurement of the drive shaft length if you use D15 and retain the std subframe suspension..?

I hope you can give me guys a response regarding this matter, tnx,tnx;)http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/vtecprogress004.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/vtecprogress001.jpg

The Mighty Mallott

11-07-2009, 03:11 PM

Hi there, good looking project, standard 8.4 discs should be ok, just use good quality discs and pads.

As far as driveshaft lengths go, this all depends on your own subframe i'm afraid, you engine may be 10mm one way or the other compared to other peoples d series frames. Many people use broom handles to mock up the length, i put half the mini shaft in the outer cv, put the honda shaft halfway through the 'travel' in the inner cv and put a mark where they over lapped. Hope that makes sense!!

Oh and by the way WE NEED MORE PICTURES!!!

Mini fab

11-07-2009, 11:39 PM

I hope you guys follow my development to give me V tec 101 installation tips. tnx tnx

Mini fab

11-07-2009, 11:53 PM

Thanks a lot MM, here are some picture ,I already got a lot of tips from you guys, tnx tnx;)
1.) here I already made a pattern to make my own subframe to save the original. it's a bit wider to have the protruding brackets more area to weld on the tube for the engine mount.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/07112009007.jpg
2.) notice flange is a bit longer than the original, so that we wont make ugly extension.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/07112009006.jpg
3.) this is what it would look like on the wheel well to clear the top flange extension,
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/07112009008.jpg

Latka

12-07-2009, 10:06 AM

If I may - it's VTEC, not V Tec, V-tech or any other permutation. :) Variable Timing and Lift Electronic Control.

Looks like you've got a good start to your project! Man there are Minis all over the globe undergoing this transformation. Can't wait until it's finally my turn!

Mini fab

12-07-2009, 11:30 AM

Thanks for the correction. And I hope I'm on the right track doing this project. I will update you soon;)

Mini fab

30-07-2009, 12:37 PM

I found this in the internet, and I want to ask if anyone had tried this manifold to fit in a D15 conversion? It is short and I guess that no modification is needed in the bulkhead, (that is a proper build, without extending the nose.)
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/D15Manifold.jpg
Hope you can give feedback on this item, since I'm about to order one in the
U.S. thanks, thanks and more power!:vtec:

pantera2075

30-07-2009, 12:55 PM

That looks an expensive piece of kit. If you've got the skills to build your own subby, why not build your own inlet?
Didn't some D15's come with twin carbs?

Mini fab

31-07-2009, 01:56 AM

The D15 is fuel injected, and this intake really is short. I saw the cost about $90
and I think quite resonable. rather than doing this on my own.:cool:

strudel

31-07-2009, 04:49 AM

Sounds like a very reasonable price for an IM. I tried to search for the site listed in the picture and could not find anything. Do you have a link that you could post to do some research on this unit? JS

S Alexander

31-07-2009, 05:42 AM

that manifold looks more like 900$ than 90$ unless it is made in China; it looks to nice for China though.

MiniMike

31-07-2009, 07:51 AM

That looks like an OBX steel chromed intake manifold..not a very good unit according to most Honda forums..

Mini fab

31-07-2009, 10:46 AM

That looks like an OBX steel chromed intake manifold..not a very good unit according to most Honda forums..
This one is made by Speedy Racer Performance (rss.api.ebay.com) and claimed to give a good performance, I guess we D15 user has no choice but to accept the fact that this one will really clear the bulk head. And it is also made of polish alloy. Will see guys! and correction it's only $89 u.s.d

Furyof4

31-07-2009, 03:09 PM

pantera2075

31-07-2009, 03:23 PM

Personally, i'd be very wary of a company called "Speed Racer Performance" It sounds like something a 5 year old would come up with.

Just my 2p.

Freebies

31-07-2009, 08:09 PM

Like said by others, it is an OBX manifold. I almost purchased one but i went with a Skunk 2 that doesn't fit.

Should have taken an obx to try it. those strait runners are easier to modified.

Those Honda forums mightr be right about the crappy resluts but might be better then a cut/Silicone elbows one.

Let me know if it fits the bulkhead. Take some pics with it installed. I would be interested in knowing the angle the runners haves in relatiuon with the flange plate.

Regards

Nice build by the way !

Mini fab

01-08-2009, 01:07 AM

That is definitely an obx manifold. Its sold by several venders under different names but its the same crap. It will probably work better than a cut up stock manifold with silicone elbows though.

Just in case you don't know, that's a non-vtec motor.;) Still a great platform though.

Yes it's a non vtec at the moment which I used just to make the pattern for my frame.;)
And regarding the manifold, I agree it is much better than our "cut up "version. will see, and I'll send you photos.thanks, thanks a lot Vtec Guys! :D

Mini fab

01-08-2009, 02:35 AM

By the way aside from the manifold I also got this item from Japan which they use in making the steering of the Mini lighter , just like an adaptor (sandwhich) it raises the pitman arm 5/8" and offset about 3/4", from the hub that makes your original mini rack straight and than bending downwards, "yes" It did made the steering atleast 30% lighter as claimed by the manufacturer.http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/IMG_1805.jpg and it will add a few more tread inwards from your tie rod, rather welding a nut to extend the tie rod length,

strudel

02-08-2009, 12:34 AM

MiniFab,

Interesting contraption but I need more enlightenment as to how it works. I just looked at a loose steering rack in the garage and I don't get it. I'm an old fart and it takes a bit longer for this stuff to sink in. All that I can see is the arm that comes out of the rack and into the car. Then the steering shaft of the steering wheel attaches to that. Other than that typical steering rack with a rubber boot on each side with the tie rod end sticking out.

it raises the pitman arm 5/8" and offset about 3/4", from the hub that makes your original mini rack straight and than bending downwards
I understand the dimensional part but not the part after the comma. You can call me a dummy, I don't mind!:confused: JS

S Alexander

02-08-2009, 06:13 AM

Guaranteed to raise and lengthen:D

Carl V

02-08-2009, 08:07 AM

Hi - you got a web link for that Steering component? Looks interesting...:)

Glenno

02-08-2009, 08:47 AM

Its just a dowelled extension - placed between the original hub and original steering arm - it straightens the rods from the steering rack to the arms by effectively making the arms longer...it does raise rod angle aswell. I was gonna make some up for mine but decided to run as is.

G

Mini fab

02-08-2009, 09:42 AM

This is called as "steering enhancer" by the Japanese ( try Mini Delta .Jp), I'm also a bit surprise how this clever item really make a difference in my MIni. I was thinking of installing an electric power steering from a Suzuki Carry but this would have a lot of wiring and bracketing involve , and then I came across with this item. And as i have said it thus make an improvement.;) i'll try to post picture for those who D.I.Y. guys with measurement.:cool:

Mini fab

02-08-2009, 09:48 AM

MiniFab,

Interesting contraption but I need more enlightenment as to how it works. I just looked at a loose steering rack in the garage and I don't get it. I'm an old fart and it takes a bit longer for this stuff to sink in. All that I can see is the arm that comes out of the rack and into the car. Then the steering shaft of the steering wheel attaches to that. Other than that typical steering rack with a rubber boot on each side with the tie rod end sticking out.

I understand the dimensional part but not the part after the comma. You can call me a dummy, I don't mind!:confused: JS

Don't worry I'll post picture. And correction no one is an "old fart" when
you are in a fast Vtec Mini!;)

strudel

02-08-2009, 05:12 PM

Guaranteed to raise and lengthen:D

So is this supposed to be a bump steer kit? Where exactly does this mount? At the end of a tie rod or on the shaft into the car for the steering wheel? JS

evolotion

02-08-2009, 07:53 PM

i imagine it mounts under the steering arm (where it bolts to the hub) and does the same job as the longer metro steering arm :) less lock to lock so turning circle is worse, but steering is lighter and more controll at high speeds :)

Mini fab

06-08-2009, 09:33 AM

Mini fab

22-10-2009, 12:56 PM

Seen this picture from another site
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/cleanengine.jpg
I was impressed of how clean this work is! This is a RAMCO frame. I was wondering if this frame would also fit a D15B engine? (with a/c compressor),
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/ramcoframe.jpg
The simplicity of work that is...awesome!

tavis1

22-10-2009, 01:02 PM

Mini fab

22-10-2009, 01:21 PM

Were you able to try this frame?:confused:

Freebies

22-10-2009, 01:29 PM

Do not know but you can have a look at minitec frames. Their site shows a built they did on a pickup using a D15B with AC.

But the intake fitting is tight and needs lots of mods. This one (shown above is really clean.

I personnely purchased a MTD frame for a D15B conversion that is approximatly half way. If it was to be done again, i would have selected a MTB2 for B16-18 engines instead....

They are almost the same price.

22-10-2009, 02:12 PM

These are the photos I promise::cool:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08062009004.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08062009006.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08062009007.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08062009011.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08062009001.jpg
We already removed the backplate .

:oops:

I think I'm missing something here. In another thread in the general forum there is an anti-bumpsteer kit that changes the track rod end to a rose joint and spacer that fits under the steering arm (lowering the track rod end) which is supposed to make the steering rack arms sit flat yet these spacers raise the steering arms up (thus the track rod ends also moving up) so wont the steering rack arms sit pointing further up probably worsening bump steer :confused:

Help ?!?!?

tavis1

22-10-2009, 02:54 PM

I have had several confrontational dialogs with the builder of this frame.

One of them is he thinks A/C in a Mini is "stupid" there for A/C was not not in the design. Read about it here:

http://www.vtecminis.com/viewtopic.php?t=105

He has specificaly desined it for the "B" only. You can read about it here.

http://www.vtecminis.com/viewforum.php?f=21

Also take note it is "not for street use", by his own words. Here is the quote here,

" Another incorrect assumption you have made is that I build stuff for use on the streets. I will not compromise performance to any extent, for highway use and it is entirely within my rights to do so".

But if you want to read the whole thread here it is.

http://www.vtecminis.com/viewtopic.php?t=249

Freebies

22-10-2009, 03:24 PM

:D So this is Mr Alexander's frame... The same Alexander that says stuff about other frame supplyers. Being too expensive and not having the right angle for intake manifolds to fit.

Wondering why he says Not for street use? What is it made for then... leave in the garage and wax it every day ?:p

Depending on where you live, AC is not that stupid. Paying so much for a build, you want to use it even if it is 35-40 Deg Celcius outside.

Mini fab

22-10-2009, 04:11 PM

I do agree that A/C is a must now a days, It's not worth showing off your car and sweating in hot summer, I also believe that this frame is somewhat similar to Off Roader version. I live a bit far from your state and based on the photos I gather I'll try to make somewhat similar but install a D15B instead of a B16 , and take note! with a/c. Mr. Alexander and Off Roader hope you don't mind,;)
And to you Mr. Freebies Minetec frame comes with a standard nose conversion for the D15 , but very Mind buggling on the bulkhead and Inlet modification.:cool:

Mini fab

22-10-2009, 04:24 PM

Mini fab

22-10-2009, 04:30 PM

:oops:

I think I'm missing something here. In another thread in the general forum there is an anti-bumpsteer kit that changes the track rod end to a rose joint and spacer that fits under the steering arm (lowering the track rod end) which is supposed to make the steering rack arms sit flat yet these spacers raise the steering arms up (thus the track rod ends also moving up) so wont the steering rack arms sit pointing further up probably worsening bump steer :confused:

Help ?!?!?

I really don't know about that rose joint thing, but I've seen that. Actually I was thinking that it's only a parts substitute for the tie rod of the original Mini. But to make this short, raising the steering arm with this spacer really lightens the steering feel of your Mini, and allows you to have more thread inserted to your tie rods.( Actually this is develop in Japan by MINI DElta to go about the wider wheels in there cars) And I've tried and agreed it makes a difference.8-)

strudel

22-10-2009, 04:42 PM

You might want to check out the following links. JS

http://www.vtecminis.com/album.php?cat_id=3&sort_method=pic_time&sort_order=DESC&user_id=6&start=0

http://www.vtecminis.com/viewtopic.php?t=147

Mini fab

22-10-2009, 04:47 PM

Yeah seen this on Vtec's forum , But whew! It's a bit pricey. I'll take my chances to make my own but with modification, to fit an a/c and a D15B.:D
BUt thanks a lot Strudle!:p

tavis1

22-10-2009, 05:06 PM

I've read these threads and honestly it's a little rough, I hope we could make this community a little more friendly. I hope Mr. Tavis everythings cool now.;-)I'm good. He knows his boundries and my limits. If he wants to cross them thats up to him.

Mini fab

22-10-2009, 05:16 PM

strudel

22-10-2009, 06:12 PM

tavis1

22-10-2009, 08:01 PM

it's better to forgive and forget, The world is such a small place when we don't have peace. My old man told me once it's better to go out of the kitchen when someones cooking that you don;t like, By the end of the day your the only one who doesn't have a tummy ache:p:p:pTo keep this thread on topic and to avoid another "lets see who's is bigger" and to keep this thread from getting shut down like the last one did because I am sure Steve will eventually read this as he reads these boards. this will be the last post on this subject. I do forgive to a point but I never forget. I have said my piece on both those threads and made my points clear and known and I am willing to let things be bygones be bygones as longs as ego's and mouths stay in check. I am one of the easiest and nicest guys in the world to get along with and if you do me a favor or help me out I am most grateful and try my best to return the favor ten fold, At the same time if you attack, lip off or insult me with out cause or reason then I will come after you full bore. As far as violence goes, I have had more than my fill. I have no interest going back to jail over an indvidual just to make a point, however like I stated before above, come after me or my family I will take you down.
Your Dad sounds like a great, wise man and I wish I can be that way (my wife has tried many years to try to change me into that type of person). If your like your dad then your a better man than me, and bless you for it.

tavis1

22-10-2009, 08:07 PM

Any comments as to off road use is mostly a disclaimer for the manufacturer so that they don't get into trouble selling non certified products. It's very normal for companies to state this with their products. JSTrue, but in his context his is built for racing and not for ride comfort, proper braking for stop and go traffic conditions or accessories to allow for things like A/C equipment.

S Alexander

22-10-2009, 09:54 PM

Mini fab

22-10-2009, 11:42 PM

Hi Mr Alexander !Nice for you to drop by. I hope we could have a friendly forum here;), Going back to your frame ,it was a neat conversion you had made there , and was wondri'n if a D15B would have more room for an a/c? If not ? And I hope you don't mind if I try it myself and as I like the way you made your frame.:D And on the other side if there is to much heat , the kitchen is already in fire !LOL:megasquirt:

tavis1

22-10-2009, 11:47 PM

un-true as usual. Tavis doen't like that I insult his inteligence, so he trys to make our kit look bad. Our system is built to competitive race standards, with little concession for street use, but as it turns out, most of our customers do use them on-road, We can't recommend it for obvious reasons, but It is actually safer because it is a stiffer design with less frame flex to cause the torque-steer probs. It is light weight....not a bad thing for highway use. It can use stock or after market Mini suspension.... not bad for highway use. It has more ground clearance under the frame..... a good thing. It can use OEM brakes....also not bad for highway use; and larger brakes can be used, as well as with any other kit....no problems there. finally, whether you need AC or not, there is not enough room in a non-extended round nose design,of any manufacturer, unless you want to cut a hole in the grill for compressor clearance and put the condenser in the boot. If there was room, AC would indeed, be a bad idea, because it adds more weight in the worst possible spot, out in front of the front wheels. I am reminded of another saying about cooking; "if you can't take the heat, stay out of the kitchen"
:D
Insulting as usual. Steve doesn't like I don't buy into his Godly self image and can't stand the fact I know he talks more than he knows and his little ego can't handle someone challenging his idea's because he considers the human population beneath him and superior to everyone else. All I was doing was using your own words and I have been completely honest based on your information. It is Steve is wrong about putting A/C in non extended nose Mini. Once again, talking more than he knows. True you have to notch the body a little bit just under the grill but there is "no hole in the grill". You will notice it with a MK1 grill but not with a MK II or above, thats how little has to be removed. Plus Steve don't you have to notch the upper grill brace to fit the radiator in your design? Another place Steve is wrong the condenser is not in the boot. It sits between the rails on the rear sub frame under the boot. Steve talks about weight of A/C..... The "D" Mini pick up that was was built by MiniTech with A/C weighs 100 LBS over stock. Here's the curve ball if weight was concerned. A "B" motor depending on accessories weighs 80- 100 LBS more than a "D" series between the block and the head. And the nice thing about a "D" is you can soup it up to put out as much more as a stock "B" if need be. Steve has and will try try to dispute this but I have got the same information from two different Honda tuners, one rebutted Steve when he tried to dispute the fact. But since Steve knows everything and everyone else is wrong I guess go with what he says. In the real world however on a SCCA race coarse or doing weekend warrior parking lot racing such as Steve wants to do I would go with a "D" series rather than a "B" because of the less weight and better traction do to less of over powering of the car. I guess OEM brakes are just fine when adding over 200 lbs on the front with over 4X the HP:?. Another thing that cracks me up is, "I will not compromise performance to any extent, ". When you are adding 4X the HP and two hundred pounds of extra weight than what was designed for in a car that weighs about 1500 LBS of coarse your going to compromise performance both in handling and engine hoarse power usability. But Steve knows everything, he's than man, he knows more the physics.

I have a favorite saying too, it's not from my dad but it goes like this, "You can't fix stupid".

Freebies

22-10-2009, 11:54 PM

Well, lets just add this comment i heard in Missouri (expression from centre USA):

" To each his own..."

And let me add also:" I Love you all !"

And yes the intake on my MTD is a Pain in the Ass but it is a mini. So my mind is always set with this " It will not Fit..." before i install any parts. Even OEM parts. !

Have fun, life is too short to wast it ...

Mini fab

23-10-2009, 12:04 AM

Yes! if it doesn't fit. ask someone if he can do it for you, and if still doesn't fit there is always a GRINDER, hahaha lol. I always remember that my car is a Mini. as our old saying here " Mini owners do it in small places.":grin::grin::grin:

S Alexander

23-10-2009, 01:39 AM

DarrenW

23-10-2009, 09:17 AM

Salexander and tavis1 PMs sent.

Please keep thread on topic.

Mini fab

23-10-2009, 11:00 AM

if you have some fab skills, you might want to build your own frame, considering the cost to ship a kit to the Philippines, and, you can get the intake manifold to fit if you get rid of the heavy, stock exhaust and make up a nice close fitting header pipe; that way, you don't have to tilt the motor back against the intake manifold.
BTW, my car weighs 0nly 20 pounds more than a stock Mini and would be considerably less than stock with a D series. When I am finished with the suspension and brakes upgrades, it will come in under stock weight also.
Cheers
Yes I'll try to make one of my own, with your frame in mind. I'll post picture to show you that an a/c will fit in that similar frame. My name is Mini Fab and yes I own a fabrication shop here in Manila, We have laser cutting machines and tube mandrel bending machine. Mini is one of my hobbies and trying to have one with headache free conversion is one I dream of. Thanks for letting me take the challenge to use your frame design;).

Furyof4

23-10-2009, 11:57 AM

Just a little info to add. The hydro b and d series mount exactly the same in civic and integras. So if the ramco frame was designed around a hydro b theoretically, it should work for d series too. The only possible problems could be bulkhead/intake clearance as the d series is shorter and axle clearance as they are in a slightly different location than a b. Of course, the only sure way to find out would be to try it.

Mini fab

30-10-2009, 09:47 AM

You see guys I already started a tubular frame (pattern only) and
scrap the rectangular tubing. With the A/c and alt. to be installed soon.:)
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/IMG_2199.jpg
Left hand side frame, notice the notch for the tie bar, but I'm planning to move the engine support bracket forward by 5-1/2" from tower mount.:???:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/IMG_2198.jpg
Engine to close at the bulk head, but I dont have any plan to "cut and box" and no nose extension.:cool:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/IMG_2197.jpg
Note all the clearances at the front, seems to clear everything.:cool:

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/IMG_2195.jpg
Also the right side seems ok, but still need to move holding bracket about 3-1/2" from post.:(
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/IMG_2196.jpg
I hope that I can perfect the frame so I could have a clean and non welded tube at the bends and a new subframe to start with.

Mini fab

16-11-2009, 01:14 AM

Almost had a new frame base on my pattern
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/11122009002.jpg
Notice that I reduce the size of my frame to 1.25" tube in 2mm wall thickness, mandrell bended.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/IMG_1836.jpgNotice tube goes down a mere 2" from the bottom bracket of lower arm to clear the tie bar upfront.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/008.jpg
Note that the height of the frame is same height with the original Mini Sump guard, so I guess this would not be an issue that the frame is to low.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/003.jpg
bottom bracket lower arm modification.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/IMG_1833.jpg
almost finish frame.

Freebies

16-11-2009, 01:51 AM

nicely done...

Mini fab

16-11-2009, 01:54 AM

I would really like to have a "motorcycle look" frame. and note ! frame is only 1kg heavier than the original frame, hows that?;-)

Freebies

16-11-2009, 01:56 AM

keep up the good work. Also noticed you are doing a D series build just like me. I'm doing a D15B

keep in touch.

Mini fab

16-11-2009, 02:52 AM

Yes bro! D15b is a way of life. I really want to make this frame as good as I can. There is a lot of Mini's here in my country and most of them came from Japan. And most of them almost due to engine rebuild, But converting these Minis to Japanese VTEC is a sure business here. A D15b is cheap, rather reconditioning the old A series. , complete with harness and shifter, with only less than 40,000 Km in the clock. ;-)

Freebies

16-11-2009, 02:54 AM

Same here... A series are too expensive to make it run like Crazy

Shipping from UK is killing us. Vtec is evrywhere in the world.

Mini fab

16-11-2009, 02:58 AM

And to us 5 speed is not an option ....

DarrenW

24-11-2009, 03:34 PM

Interesting frame.

Please dont take this wrong, as I have always been interested in tubular frames, as they look the part.

When you bend a round tube round so much doesnt the tube wall become really thin at that point and therefore more likely to collapse/give in certain directions?

Mini fab

27-11-2009, 10:08 PM

When we bend the tube using a mandrell bending machine( no heating is involve), the tube did expands a little, but we make sure no cracks would be visible when forming it, And also we use 2.0mm thick tube, so expansion would get to a minimum of 1.8 to 1.7mm at the bends.;)
A lot of gusseting at the corners is involve. If you will notice the front bar upfront, we make sure triangulated gussets are installed, but without sacrificing weight,so I intend to put holes.;)

Freebies

28-11-2009, 01:34 AM

Yeah... i would really like to have access to a mandrel bending machine and have the skills to do fine work. My roll bars were made usind a mandrel bending machine. Cost me 450$ Canadian for the job

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/3637/dsc01696m.jpg

Surely i could have done it way cheaper if i had the knowledge.

Minitec are also build using this type of bender if i'm right.

Keep up the good work as your frame looks very professionnal.

Mini fab

28-11-2009, 04:25 AM

Thanks Freebies, Hope we could show our Engine bays soon!

Mini fab

05-01-2010, 10:32 AM

Update on my alternator bracket
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate014.jpg
Back view
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate019.jpg
Japanese Hydrovac
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate012.jpg
Japanese Valve
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate013.jpg

Mini fab

18-01-2010, 11:03 AM

Well everything fits!!!;)
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Photo0022.jpg
almost there, just to sort out the rod change,

Mini fab

21-01-2010, 10:18 AM

I just want to update some improvements in my project:
Manifold from an aluminum pipe with 4.5" radius
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/01212010006.jpg
Back view also includes welded O2 sensor from orig manifold
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/01212010003.jpg
Adaptor plate to seal orig rod change lever.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/01212010012.jpg
this the plate to have a clean look
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/01212010002.jpg
Also made my own billet gas pedal
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/IMG_1803.jpg

Mini fab

28-01-2010, 10:53 PM

update
Subframe powder coated in red for good visual.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate037.jpg
alternator bracket on top so I could still have room for my a/c compressor.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate034.jpg
look at clearance on the belt.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate035.jpg

Freebies

29-01-2010, 01:33 AM

looks pretty well made. good job

Mini fab

29-01-2010, 03:22 AM

Thanks bro! last detail was the drive shaft thou, But hopefully can figure that out by next week.
A/c bracket almost ok. By the way Freebies I didn't forget the pictures of the cabrio, but I guess the one you have is much better. My friend sold the car b4 the holiday so I was'nt able to get the pictures I promise, But I'll try to get in touch with the guy who bought the car and ask him for soe pictures. Again tnx!

Mini fab

29-01-2010, 09:46 AM

I would like to ask your opinion guys, is my frame too low or it's just color red that's why I can see it clearly.
1.) the current stance of the car right now is at it's lowest, the bump stop and upper arm are already touching , the hi-lo is at it's "close position".
2.) ground to the bottom of the red frame (lowest) is 3.5"
3.) from the oil sump is 1/2" lower at the bottom of the tube.
So it's my frame too low? Pictures for you to comment. tnx!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Photo0073.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Photo0071.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Photo0070.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Photo0067.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Photo0063.jpg

Freebies

29-01-2010, 12:58 PM

My opinion is it is ok. Can't really tell at the moment, the car never was on its wheels.

For the cabrio, how much he sol it for just out of curiousity?

Mini fab

29-01-2010, 01:12 PM

My opinion is it is ok. Can't really tell at the moment, the car never was on its wheels.

For the cabrio, how much he sol it for just out of curiousity?

the Cabrio was sold about $15,500 USD or L 9,333 British Pounds,it has a/c , sound system and 1275 Carb engine manual. ;)

steve

29-01-2010, 02:39 PM

Freebies

29-01-2010, 02:44 PM

Mini fab

29-01-2010, 03:26 PM

hi mate looking at your pictures and measurements i would say it is low!
especialy if your roads are anything like ours!!!! also take into consideration you have no glass, interior, passenger in there yet so it will be lower still once all the extra weight has been added
Steve
Well as I said it is already at it's lowest setting, Hi-lo's are closed. and the bump stop already pressed in to the upper arm, well to make things short, I'm planning to raise the two lower tubes ( that you see hanging L& R ) by an inch, we made it that way because of the tie bar to drop at it's max. but the to lower tube are only 1/2 inch lower than the oil sump.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Photo0060.jpg
and regarding engine height, I believe that's already the best mounting height. the alternator bracket are in its best position, because I'm planning to install a/c. and the drive shaft is already centered to the original holes. , again moving the engine half an inch more to the bulkhead is one more adjustment I'm planning to do.
so far 'm really trying to mount everything high enough like the shifter, even the exhaust system will clear whatever road hazard I'll be running into.;)

Mini fab

29-01-2010, 03:30 PM

Maybe but he said it was at its lowest position... Is it? By the look of your arch, if you raise the car, this would also increase the gap between wheel and fender....

Well what other adjustments can you do ? Raise the engine and adjust the Frame ? Can you do that with your intske?

For engine in relation with the body, check my thread. The last series of pictures shows the modified intake. you might be able to confirm the engine height into the bulkhead relation and compare.

By the way Mate the wheel arch has been already modified to fit a Zeemax kit , that;s why it's like lifted from the sideview.
But I still look at it, My guide is Mini Mike measurement by the way;)
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate021.jpg
as I compare the height of our engine thru the bulkhead I guess we are on the same height,
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/manifold.jpg

Mini fab

02-02-2010, 10:31 AM

Update:
The car without the front end, with the Hi-lo adjusted to 10mm.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate038.jpg
The engine mounting bracket was moved from the right about 1/4" to clear everything hitting the transmission housing.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate044.jpg
After lifting the hi-lo about 10mm the ground clearance was about 4 7/8" from the ground.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate043.jpg
After moving the whole engine from the left (fronting the car) this clears the transmission about 9mm, even without the bumpstop.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate040.jpg
The oil sump also clears about 10mm, no need shaving the sump.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate041.jpg
So was this set up still too low?

strudel

02-02-2010, 05:17 PM

Mini Fab,

Your limiting factor is the how low the oil pan sits from the ground. That would be the lowest point in my opinion. The frame rails would have to be at or above this point. That's the comparison of engine to frame tubes.

The other factor of course is where you have the height of the engine/driveshafts placed. If you have the engine too low then naturally you will have limited ground clearance. What you have to establish is what the oem engine had for ground clearance and work from that point.

Or determine if you have enough hood clearance to raise the mounts so that it just fits under the hood at the highest possible point to get more ground clearance. I didn't look at which oil pan you have on the engine but in some cases you can swap pans to get a flatter shape. In my D16A1 the pan is from a newer Civic and it gains a bit of height at the back side of the pan instead of having it have an angle to the rear. Just a thought. JS

Mini fab

02-02-2010, 09:17 PM

Thanks Strudel, So far the engine as I said sits at it's best position at the moment having just a quarter of an inch at the bonnet (on top of the fabricated Alternator bracket) drive shaft as it's best centered position.

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate016.jpg
and the Hi-lo's are adjust about 10mm only. the subframe bar are lower than the oil sump about 1/2 " ,that was my intention to install a sump guard just about levelly mounted. But I have to look at your your suggestion on that oil pan, or was it possible to cut the oil pan about an 1"? ;)

strudel

02-02-2010, 10:25 PM

Mini Fab

Read this article and it explains why he chose the pan. It may be different in your model type. JS

http://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/paninstall/index.html

Mini fab

03-02-2010, 09:09 AM

check this out!!!! front stabiliser OEM;););)
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniproject016.jpg
Found this one from an EG civic for the rear.

Mini fab

11-02-2010, 03:54 AM

Wasn't pleased about the alternator bracket, so we made a new one with a lot of holes and gives about 45% lighter.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniprojectfeb009.jpg
also made this fuel pump extended to 12" and fasteners
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniprojectfeb007.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniprojectfeb008.jpg

Made also this re locator bracket to make the D15 shifter more like the original rod change, " no snake underneath due to cut and weld.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniprojectfeb006.jpg
And next our modified Honda gauge to fit like in the original dash that we are doing in fiberglass
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniprojectfeb002.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniprojectfeb004.jpg
post you soon on more updates.

Mini fab

13-02-2010, 09:41 AM

Update on my project : since it's very hot here in Asia a/c is a must so heres some PICTURES OF MY INSATALLATION.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate054.jpg
Note; The lower valance been covered / repaired after we modified the frame so subframe is almost same installation as stock Mini frame
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate056.jpg
Tight installation but bracket is almost 1/4" from the block (almost invisible) compared to the original Honda which is 1-3/4" thick.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate057.jpg
Few surgery here and there but it do the job to clear some parameters in this project.
( Note: Standard nose Mini)

TurboMini

14-02-2010, 05:53 PM

Are you doing that welding with Oxy/Acetylene? Are you making some mods to the tank to prevent surging? Or do you have an MPI tank that is already designed for fuel injection.

Mini fab

14-02-2010, 09:40 PM

For the frame I'm using Tig. for the body I use oxy and acetylene. I'm using a carb type gas tank, that's why I do some mod, with regards to surging, I was looking at an Mpi tank and there is no "bowl/tub" to concentrate the gas at the bottom of the filter so I guess this set up will just do just fine, I believe surging is only possible if you have a tank that is wide and long. I'll be doing modification today to fit Honda float sender.;)

TurboMini

14-02-2010, 09:54 PM

I thought it looked like oxy/ace on the body. Why not use the TIG? I prefer TIG on the body.

I used the Honda bowl to prevent surging, that thing is bloody brilliant, glad I saved it.

I saved the flange from the Honda tank for the sender unit as well as the sender unit. But I'm going to be running all Mini gauges so I am sticking with the Mini sender unit.

Mini fab

14-02-2010, 10:19 PM

I would really like to use the tig when doing the tin smiting on the body but I'm very much used to oxy/ace , because I'm using galvanize sheet when doing repairs and also hammering the sheet on the area needed to be rounding off and by this way I'll be putting less bondo during painting , I also seen what you made regarding that tub you salvage from the original Honda tank, but that would make me open the tank and do more welding, By the way I'm planning to made my tank in all aluminum or in abs to be more lighter and extend about 3"-4" in the process to have more petrol in storage. By the way nice job on your Mini.

Mini fab

16-02-2010, 09:17 AM

This is what I made to modify the A/T script with fine stickers to change manual. Note that I made a fiberglass facia to adapt to my fiberglass dash/ or wallnut dash.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate062.jpg
dashboard with fiberglass facia.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate065.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate064.jpg

Mini fab

04-03-2010, 09:16 AM

Mini update on brakes
Already installed a PH12 9.5" vented disc set up. with aluminum spacers and brackets.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate075.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/05272010002.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/05272010005.jpg
back
Also with 1.5" aluminum spacer that clears the rubber suspension.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate076.jpg
And Japanese original slim fan that covers the whole radiator, this fan has a repairable motor .

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate077.jpg

Mini fab

24-04-2010, 01:41 AM

Update
Finish with my paint, in PORSCHE GT3 livery
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Miniupdateapril24004.jpg
How I made my drive shaft, by heating the sleeves before welding both sleeve ends ( of course welded also the joints with V- cuts) in tig
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Miniupdateapril24005.jpg
Look how every thing fits without hitting or rubbing on other parts
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/susapril24002.jpg

Mini fab

24-04-2010, 02:48 AM

My tell tale:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/dashapril24003.jpg:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/dashapril24001.jpg

Mini fab

25-04-2010, 10:43 PM

Got this everything fitted on a standard round nose with out extension
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Miniupdateapril24006.jpg
Note the original Honda rad didn't exposed or foul the tyre
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/susapril24003.jpg
Here's another angle, note rad fan , We also didn't cut the headlamp bowl (http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/susapril24001.jpg

Freebies

26-04-2010, 12:36 AM

good work mate. Looks like you garage is as messy as mine !:D

Keep it up and let us know how it runs.

I would have thought you would cut the extra material under the front flare to avoid the tire to fool on it.

Mini fab

26-04-2010, 01:35 AM

Yeah Man garage is soooo messy, can't clean it while doing the project. Anyway hope to make the car running soon.:D
Anyway I already check the wheel arch, so far tire are not rubbing at the front, clearance is good, and also note that when I took the picture the hi lo is still at it's "close" or no adjustment yet was made.:cool:

Mini fab

26-04-2010, 05:41 AM

Clutch:
I made an adapter plate to use Honda clutch master
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate007-1.jpg
That is neatly tucked in its original position, even if I have to replace one, I'll just get the whole master clutch assembly and drop in!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate005.jpg
note the distribution hose already pointing to the right direction.

Mini fab

26-04-2010, 06:27 AM

Oh by the way power steering for the Mini that came from Japan.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate003-1.jpg:p

Mini fab

29-06-2010, 06:58 AM

Wiring almost being sorted out with our homebrew car technician.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/vtecupdateJune29003.jpg
Thermotec wrapped and painted VHT afterwards to avoid the insulation cracking, thus help to insulate heat transfer to the a/c compressor.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/vtecupdateJune29002.jpg
Muffler tip at center.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/vtecupdateJune29001.jpg
Radiator hose is a combination of Honda lower hose and Mini hoses.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/vtecupdateJune29004.jpg
got tired of the Mini original stalk that always breaks , so I intend to modify mine with Honda one and produce steering housing in Fiberglass ( with little adjustments) so all my center switches are di commissioned and all control are under my finger tips.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/updatesteering005.jpg
Sunroof switches was actually all Ford Fiesta sunroof was installed and got the whole controls up on my ceiling with Night and day rear view mirror and courtesy lights
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/updatesteering001.jpg

tavis1

02-07-2010, 03:30 PM

WOW! Great job!

patlink

02-07-2010, 08:34 PM

like the anti roll bar idea

great job

Mini fab

04-07-2010, 12:23 PM

Tavis thanks almost done , can't post picture in the Vtec's Mini site. how are you doing man? When are we going to start yours?:p

Patlink: Thanks man!;)

tavis1

06-07-2010, 04:15 PM

Tavis thanks almost done , can't post picture in the Vtec's Mini site. how are you doing man? When are we going to start yours?:p

Patlink: Thanks man!;)I'm OK. I haven't started mine because I am making car and house payments for my brother and sister because of the economy. Someday though.......

Freebies

06-07-2010, 04:43 PM

because I am making car and house payments for my brother and sister

Do you wanna be my brother too ? please....

tavis1

06-07-2010, 07:05 PM

Do you wanna be my brother too ? please....I am all taped out. Come January when the old/ new taxes kick back/ in I will have to cut back on my help. I just hope they find jobs by then.....

Mini fab

13-07-2010, 12:58 PM

Updates !! It's alive!!
we had the wiring done in 3 days and fired the engine!
1.) Change the fuel line to stainless braided hose in 1/4" i.d.
2.) check the manifold conversion for any leaks.
and here's the result !!! ( sorry for the local language:))
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/th_07132010.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/?action=view&current=07132010.mp4)
Next stop on the road!!!

tavis1

13-07-2010, 03:55 PM

Mini fab

13-07-2010, 04:00 PM

Yeah man! but this moment get us so excited:D

MiniMike

14-07-2010, 12:23 AM

Way to go... now for that first drive!

Furyof4

14-07-2010, 04:21 PM

Great to hear Minifab! Makes me excited to start my project.

Mini fab

15-07-2010, 03:07 AM

Thanks Guys!
Mini Mike: I owe you one Man , without your build thread this wouldn't be possible.;)
Fury: I'll be installing radiator catch tank today and clean up the interiors, I'll be posting more videos after the A/C was complete. but the car was already down the ramp and was so happy that the converted intake has no problem at all, I was able to use a 1/4" i.d. stainless fuel hose , and it seems to work very well

I'll update more videos for
Japanese Hydrovac conversion
and the inverted honda clutch.

MiniMike

15-07-2010, 10:18 PM

Mini Fab, I got a bunch of new ideas from your build that I can use for the next one! Thanks for keeping the build pics coming!

Mini fab

16-07-2010, 10:49 AM

No problem mike, It is how the forum works help each other and improve;)

Mini fab

17-07-2010, 02:33 AM

Updates :
Fitted Recaro in my Mini (No fuzz no Frills ) Simple bracketry!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/011.jpg
with this simple bracket:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/009.jpg
Also thought of having a sump cover made of fiber glass
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/007.jpg
this is how it is mount under the car, got only 1/2 clearance from the exhaust.

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/012.jpg
also added a push start button since I got away with the old Mini buttons
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/updatesteering005.jpg
I was able to convert mine with Honda steering stalk to incorporate all switches with the finger.

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/008-1.jpg

Mini fab

17-07-2010, 05:30 AM

By the way update also with regards to the clearance on my shifter , after doing the conversion of my linkage to a b16 type.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/005-1.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/006.jpg
I can guarantee you shifting is "SWEET" since the shifter is so straight and got great clearance from the exhaust pipe and tunnel:D
I did also my condenser at the back so I wont eat up much space at front, this carrier houses original Honda condenser with hinge type bracket for easy maintenance.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/004-1.jpg

Brake hose to Honda Calipers, (no Fuzz no Complication!)

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/003-2.jpg

Mini fab

17-07-2010, 08:02 AM

Computer box location:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/minievox002.jpg
made a bracket under the dash

charlie_t

17-07-2010, 08:18 AM

Updates :
Also thought of having a sump cover made of fiber glass
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/007.jpg
Should it not be in steel or is it only a cosmetic rhubarb gaurd? looks good though
What were your recaros from?

Mini fab

17-07-2010, 10:50 PM

My Sump guards has metal brackets that clamps to the subframe bottom tubes, Original cars got only plastic just to cover the underside to prevent dust, mud and other sorts of stuffs getting to the engine, and by the way it's a 1/2 inch lower from the exhaust pipe coming from the manifold, still 4-3/4 from the ground.

I don't know from what car the Recaros came from , But all Recaro's have the same mounting holes underneath. I already install this for quite a few sets already and it seems they are all the same. ;)

charlie_t

18-07-2010, 09:19 AM

Nice :) it makes the underside look very tidy keep up the good work:D

Mini fab

19-07-2010, 01:09 AM

Thanks man, I really want to achieve a factory finish for my Mini , everything is in place and stock in form, ( Might help Rover to repackage the Mini with Vtec):D

Freebies

19-07-2010, 02:22 AM

Hi MiniFab, we talked a few times about using the shifter of a B16 on the D series. Do you have any pictures showing off the difference between both shifter assembly ?

I'm about to install mine in the next two weeks.

Let me know.

Regards

Mini fab

19-07-2010, 10:25 AM

Freebies my man! How are you? Well to use a B16 is the short cut way to do it, but having a D shifter is also feasible ,but a little fabrication is required, hope you seen my latest post, see how good the clearances of the shifter ? well start doing this type of bracket, its already the one that holds the shifter fixed bracket eeerrr with a few mods. this mods is one way to have the fixed bar situ at the left.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniprojectfeb006.jpg
Then do this: This is where the B16 fixed bar is located at the left . the D is at the right.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate070.jpg
and this bends:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/miniupdate069.jpg
Hope this pictures will easily gets to you, just go back few pages and you can figure this out.
and by the way have it measured more backwards ( shifter, near to the handbrake) so you won't be couching when shifting like when shifting an old A series.

Freebies

19-07-2010, 04:56 PM

I've seen your pictures on previous pages. Thought you had pics showing both linkages.

So basicly, the big difference is the fixing point of the stabiliser bar at the plate bolted on the floor. D exit right B exit left ?

Mini fab

20-07-2010, 01:26 AM

Yes my man! that's how I figure it out, thus giving you less bends at the fixing point, So just moded your D series shifter and that's it!:D

Freebies

20-07-2010, 01:39 AM

do you have a rough measurement from center of lower bolt and center pin on linkage arm on your custom bracket ?

strudel

20-07-2010, 02:08 AM

Freebies

20-07-2010, 02:10 AM

well, not pinaples like you say but might give more room for the exhaust when done like this. Will see in the next weeks.

Mini fab

20-07-2010, 03:18 AM

do you have a rough measurement from center of lower bolt and center pin on linkage arm on your custom bracket ?

I guess that would be difficult to say since we are using different frame . it' s a hit and miss situation, but I'll try to relay to you by tomorrow.:D

Mini fab

20-07-2010, 03:27 AM

So, are you two saying that the oem Honda design was a piece of crap?? ;) I will have to look under my GenI CRX to see as I've forgotten. Might have to do that on there as well to improve things as I have an 89 Integra system in the CRX. Which of course the Mini will have sometime in the future if I get my butt into gear and start working on it again. JS

Yes i agree with Freebies, Honda design is not as pineapple , It's just we are using the Honda engine to a different body, And as we try to Hybrid the Mini , we ware just making a different approach.

Are we Rocket Scientist????:D:D:D:D:D

Mini fab

20-07-2010, 08:55 AM

Quarter Mile!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/th_07202010002.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/?action=view&current=07202010002.mp4)
My Mechanic approves! No bump inside engine bay when we drag car!!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/th_07202010.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/?action=view&current=07202010.mp4)
The Thermotec seems to dries up, So Smoke coming from the manifold
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/th_07202010001.jpg (http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/?action=view&current=07202010001.mp4)

Mini fab

20-07-2010, 12:24 PM

Here is our frame with engine:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/07032010002-1.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/07032010004.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/07032010001.jpg

tavis1

20-07-2010, 12:34 PM

Congrats man! That is so fricken awesome, great job! It is time to celebrate!

Mini fab

21-07-2010, 12:42 AM

Thanks Man! If you where here will have some beer!!!:D

patlink

23-07-2010, 08:11 PM

judging by the screams and laughs it must be a great first trip down the road. well done like to see builds come alive

andyfkettle

26-07-2010, 08:52 PM

Great build! me and my brother are both putting D16z6 in our minis, bought allspeed subframes and just starting the builds, some great ideas and solutions and the most cleanest and tidy install ive seen for a home build.
what alloy wheels and size are they and where did u get them from? have nothing like that here in the uk.
Also what intake manifold did u use as the d16z6 one i have might be too bid and the one u used is easier to modify.
Good work
Andy

Mini fab

27-07-2010, 11:03 AM

Thanks Andy, Well alloys are Lenzo's 13 x 7.5 on A539 it has a mark "for racing purposes only" but I doubt it, but they are sooo light! Manifold is original D15 I just made up some elbows and weld it. Since the idea of using silicon puts me off everytime you step on the accelerator the whole intakes moves. Just browse on my build thread so you can get a lot of ideas. Thanks for sharing!

Mini fab

27-07-2010, 01:36 PM

Congrats man! That is so fricken awesome, great job! It is time to celebrate!

Hahaha by the way what we are shouting in our local language is "here comes the rain !"as we try to test it on a quarter mile , But it seems the brakes are good, and as we start revving our engines no knocking sound whatsoever inside the engine bay! I think the frame kit was a success!:D

Mini fab

29-07-2010, 03:09 AM

Sort my air cleaner set -up
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/07292010004.jpg
I used BORG and WARNER air cleaner with 2.5" bottom hose, and it fits!

Mini fab

02-08-2010, 09:49 AM

I've been using my Vtec Mini for the past few days, been very satisfied with the power of the D15, I guess it's just like driven a race A series with grunt but can easily be tamed, Very very satisfied indeed, There is a little torque steer, but I can live with that. Got my suspension sort out, steering aligned, rear camber sorted out and it's good to go everyday, Just to the a/c technician to sort the plumbing.
I guess for a daily driven Vtec the D is the best engine. economy wise it is! for the next couple of days got to hand it over to the paint shop, Update you guys for the final look.:D

Freebies

02-08-2010, 04:48 PM

cool, good to knoe that. mine should come out from the top fabricator by friday. then will get it painted in 3 weeks.

Mini fab

02-08-2010, 09:46 PM

looking forward to see your project Freeb's :D

Mini fab

05-08-2010, 08:54 AM

Already installed the Front Grill without Chrome and "monolith" design ( No bling!)
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08052010002.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08052010003.jpg
Everything fits inside without any problem!

tavis1

05-08-2010, 01:36 PM

I love the red slat! What a nice highlight!

Mini fab

05-08-2010, 09:46 PM

The red slat optically will make the grill look slim at front. :p

Mini fab

06-08-2010, 11:52 AM

The red slat optically will make the grill look slim at front. :p

Our Grill badge

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08062010.jpg
to know what's under the hood!

MiniVtec18

07-08-2010, 12:00 AM

Hey what wheels are you using?
cheers

Mini fab

07-08-2010, 04:31 AM

These are Lenzo's monoblock alloys ( Very lite) in 7.5 x 13
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/Image003.jpg

delsolbrit

08-08-2010, 09:55 PM

now dont get me wrong i like the grill but can anyone say " like a golf"!!!! lol

Mini fab

09-08-2010, 02:03 AM

now dont get me wrong i like the grill but can anyone say " like a golf"!!!! lol

Yes I know but there is no Golf around here, It's 1 in 100 if there's any:D

Mini fab

09-09-2010, 12:03 PM

My finish Car ( almost!!!)

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09092010.jpg

Our updated 3rd production subframe!!! with our sort out brake hose mounting and own brake hose for our Honda caliper conversion.

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09082010001.jpg

tavis1

09-09-2010, 12:54 PM

Very nice man! You rock!

Mini fab

09-09-2010, 01:02 PM

Thanks Man! Like the Mini theme ? Almost no chrome . Can't decide weather to install a bonnet badge on the Carbon bonnet or keep it clean?

Freebies

09-09-2010, 01:12 PM

Nice job mate!

i might order a frame from you next time... Having so much problem with the exhaust manifold lately. Seams hard if not impossible to fit the nice MK1 large slat grill i bought.

Keep it badge less

Mini fab

09-09-2010, 11:16 PM

Thanks Man ! Looking forward for your order:D, Have to try this one on December for our local Trackday!

tavis1

10-09-2010, 12:40 PM

Thanks Man! Like the Mini theme ? Almost no chrome . Can't decide weather to install a bonnet badge on the Carbon bonnet or keep it clean?I DO! For me I like chrome though.... For me I am going to add a carbon fiber Deceptacon emblem- I'm weird that way though LOL!

Mini fab

10-09-2010, 01:51 PM

Hahaha Transformer fanatic!

wassupcrew

10-09-2010, 04:40 PM

i love your frame, it looks sweet. saw your car in mini mag aswell. did you ever get round to looking at shipping to the uk. i would be very interested in one.

Mini fab

11-09-2010, 05:11 AM

Oh thanks man! Actually I'm working on it already, My frame got the right clearances and correct mounting brackets, I just need to run the car on our local Trackday to prove it's worthiness But FYI I got orders already here locally and never got any problems in mounting the engine and it fits quite perfectly, I'm not being to boastful , But since I develop this one I'm glad to say it's the one frame can accommodate everything Mini, from the original Hydro, with a/c and all Honda ancillaries combine . Simple engine steadies that you can still use original Dog Bone bushing from polybush to the original rubbers, Honda B series poly mount, (NO problem!) And for all you guys: I would just recommend D series to the Vulnerable D15 to D16cz ( limit your usage to these engines , and you will have no problem. Power is sufficient, if you wanted the 160 bhp of a B16, get the D 16 and Hop up kits, No worries! Can also accomodate Automatics D15'S:D

Mini fab

28-09-2010, 06:40 AM

Got to made my own version of a roll cage, in CDS
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09282010007.jpg
Complete seatbelt points brackets
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09282010010.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09282010008.jpg

Freebies

10-11-2010, 02:43 AM

Hi MiniFab, just asked the same question to MiniMike. You are using 1/4 ID fuel feed hose right ?

Is it working fine ?

All AN fittings are either -4AN (1/4) or -6AN (3/8 ) No -5AN (that would be 5/16. Mike used 5/16 on his ride.

Let me know mate

cheers

Mini fab

10-11-2010, 08:51 AM

Mini fab

05-12-2010, 10:49 PM

Attended trackday last Sunday when the car is barely finished! Travelled to the NLEX ( 180 km highway) to the race track.
NO problem when speed reach about 175kmh/hr( on 13's) very stable!!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/trackday.jpg
Wen't head to head with other Minis, still got the Honda advancement 1500's
it went really well on corners since my frame doesn't alter the MIni's original suspension.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/trackday3.jpghttp://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/trackday2.jpg
The local group was all intrested in the 1st and only locally made conversion and try to test it at the drag race.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/dragrace.jpg

well the result was not satisfactory since the car was not really set up for race.
and lost by a 2 car length on a Mini Turbo. But I 've learned that never get at 8,000 rpm on 2nd gear and lots of wheel spin an A539, SO back with a Vengance.
BUT ALL IN ALL THE FRAME WAS GREAT WITHOUT ANY PROBLEM, ENGINE KNOCKING AT THE BAY, SPEED BUMPS and got all clearances right!!!

wilp99

06-12-2010, 05:08 AM

good job at getting it done... too bad u lost to an a series. what else did he have done to the turbo a+? couldnt have just been a turbo'd mini....could it?

Mini fab

06-12-2010, 05:21 AM

I've lost because I didn't know that you don't have to reach 7000+ rpm on a Vtec mini the valve floats! So I guess now I know .But you see guys, the Mini Turbo has a sleek racing tyres , no reverse gear and mine is a stock D15!!! And really doesn't have any mods yet. from the Japanese breakers to the race track! And it has a very respectable power.:)

Mini fab

06-12-2010, 10:37 AM

here are the numbers!!!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/cavalcade.jpg
and the rest
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/backpac.jpg

tavis1

06-12-2010, 12:46 PM

Very cool!

Mini fab

17-12-2010, 08:57 AM

I was using the car for almost a week now, here are some of my observation.
1.My car was stable to drive even reaching at high speed.
2.A bit animal to drive because of the engine torque , but I can shift to 2nd gear to tame the abrupt acceleration.
3. the engine steadies I think should all be in poly, the original rubber for the dog bone of the A+ easily expires. ( Now I have a bit of a knocking at the bulk head)
4. I need to add one more engine steady at the center . I have 2 at the moment 1 at the back, and 1 at the left under the rad.
5. I would also modify the original engine supports in poly or fill it up with vulcanize rubber.
So hopefully after this improvements I should be ready to install the a/c motor.

Mini fab

31-12-2010, 12:52 AM

Observation:
1.) I've use the original 1/4" supply line of the Mini as return line and later fail due to rust build up, so needless to say I removed the whole supply tube and blow air, but it seems a lot of rust build up, and accidentally brake the tube in two. I replace it with stainless braided hose similar to my supply line.
2.) I relocate the O2 sensor at the manifold and weld a nut at the side to avoid hitting the front grill. Almost parallel to the clutch slave.
3.) It is a must to use polyurethane engine mounts on the main and engine steadies. since the Mini engine bay has small clearances around the Honda engine .The original Honda mounts in rubber easily expires and softens in a few kilometers use.
Atleast 5 mounting points.
4.)It is also a must to use adjustable tiebars ( Minispares/ Huddersfield) on your conversion, since your hybrid frame has a minimum repositioning of these tiebar mounts.
5.) Lower arm is ok to use the original ones, but having also the adjustables can be a good option since engine weight and length is relatively different from the original subframe.
6.) never use a steering wheel smaller than 12" so you can handle a bit of a torque steer in case of acceleration.

After all these pointers are taken the car runs smoother and easy to handle.

Happy New Year and Motoring, Hope some of these pointers might help you fellow 16Vers

dirtdiggler

02-01-2011, 05:20 AM

i gotta say i love this build and have read it twice so far lol

hope to build a d16 mini soon in the future

Mini fab

02-01-2011, 12:14 PM

Thanks Man!!!

Mini fab

08-01-2011, 08:25 AM

Guys I would like to say that after everything was carried out , It seems my car wasn't doing very well with some points, It's really weird!!! I just have my mechanics check all the bolts , tighten them up and Bang!!!:(:(
1.) got the car to a wheel aligner and they seems not get it spot on, but base on the data, everything is all under the allowable range (Caster, Camber and Alignment) but when I set the car to the ground, as if it wants to split the car in half, I mean it's pulling from the left. It wasn't going straight!

I mean I have traveled on it's first run to the track with no problems at all then here it is now all dismantled
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/01082011004.jpg

It's really weird!!!:confused::confused:
I just need to check up everything from the engine mounts and welds.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/01082011003.jpg

above is what I have at the back of the engine to stabilize engine movement.First inspection was good since no cracks was found on the body and subframe.

But this we notice...
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/01082011001.jpg
the bolt is quite small for the hole that holds the subframe under the body,
My approach is to weld a pipe that when you place the bolt it barely moves that will limit the subframe movement, all poly bush subframe mount will be replaced with metal or solid mounts.

By the way with the engine and subframe out I took the time to replace the return fuel line ( OLD SUPPLY LINE of the original A+) with stainless braided hose with i.d. of 6mm or 1/4" in o.d. of 5/16" which works very well and easy to install under the car.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/01082011002.jpg

the adjustable track and lower arm twice removed and installed
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/12162010.jpg

I'll update you with everything thanks, By the way your suggestions will be greatly appreciated. tnx;)

Mini fab

19-01-2011, 03:15 AM

I did some reinforcements on the body, which I thinks is the best solution that would limit / ( no) subframe movement. here are some pictures for your reference:
This is my idea of having a pipe welded in the subframe mounts.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/01082011001-1.jpg
here it is positioned:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/bodyreinforcement001.jpg
I used 3/8" thick plates for top and bottom, having the oval shaped one at the subframe and round one on top ( washer) bothe top and bottom tig welded about 25mm at 4 corners, ( not fully welded)
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/bodyreinforcement002.jpg
Now look how the tower bolts fits with no movement at all.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/bodyreinforcement003.jpg

Hope this would make a better improvement. better than solid mounts offered by some Mini Specialist.

MiniMike

19-01-2011, 04:07 AM

I hope you lined them up with the sub frame bolted in place, otherwise you may have trouble fitting the bolts back in, as you now have no flexibility to move the bolts around.

Mini fab

19-01-2011, 05:03 AM

Yes mike, actually I've used a non altered original subframe to fixed these bolts, bolted the floor mounts and tow bar mounts before fixing/welding these bolts. Even if I have to go back to an A series engine same mounting.;)
And I put a small amount of grease to glide the bolts down the hole.
Here are my engine steadies positioned at the engine.
for the transmission
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/enginebars003.jpg
and 2 at the back, Notice that I have one installed at the original alternator area rather at the front since I have an a/c compressor mounted.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/enginebars002.jpg
this was the first one I have at the back.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/enginebars001.jpg
Do you think this is enough?

MiniMike

20-01-2011, 02:53 AM

I should have known you would have thought of bolting the frame up before welding! :)
I have two steadies in the front, and a single one on the rear, but my rear one used the Honda rear tranny mount and modified bracket, which seems to be a little larger than the two Mini ones you have..did you have much engine movement before? I don't have much movement that I can detect anyway.:cool:

Mini fab

21-01-2011, 12:11 AM

I'll try to get by what I have right now, since the original Honda tranny rubber mount is very bulky at the back, But I'm not closing my option, if ever this engine steadies doesn't work . I'll do it your way, Thanks Man!!!

Mini fab

19-02-2011, 12:43 PM

Mike got everything sort out! Yes the culprit was the hole for the tower bolt getting bigger everytime the engine torques.
and since I've been relieve by these.... got my A/C up and running
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/02192011004.jpg
installed in my engine bay with all the necessary clearances figured out, with our very own bracket.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/02192011001.jpg
Temperature is far more better than the original Mini a/c coming from Japan, with all Honda compressors and condensers being use. The Glass fogs with the inside temp dropping. Our technicians completing final touches on the Blower, that incorporate vents at both sides and at the middle.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/02192011003.jpg

MINIMAD30

19-02-2011, 04:47 PM

Looking good, what size of cds did you use fr the roll cage and I can't quite see what you have done at the ends of the door bars to attach them to the frame. Is there an insert in the end of the tube? Also do you have any pics of the rear of your frame, trying to get ideas for a rear mount and how close your engine is to the rear of the frame. Mine is rather close but i retained the original pressed steel plate between the towers, thanks!

MiniMike

19-02-2011, 08:45 PM

Glad to see you resolved your engine movement problem. I have not seen this problem on my cars at all. Maybe you had some rust issues in the tower mounting bolt area, and this just caused it to fail like that.
I noticed in these pictures that you modified the lower part of the front grill opening all the way along to make more room for the headers and radiator.. how much did you move the lip out? I did two specific areas on mine, but I like the idea of doing the entire length of the opening.

Mini fab

19-02-2011, 09:48 PM

MiniMad I use 38mm CDS with 2.5mm wall thickness.and the clearance to the engine at the end of the frame is what you see in the picture, I guess the limiting factor was the bolt at the original alternator bracket.

Thanks Mike!Yes I did modify the lower part of the front grill opening from end to end , just below that lip clears the original Grill of the mini . it goes forward an inch (25mm) and 20 mm height. it make it looks cleaner. :)

Mini fab

24-02-2011, 09:22 AM

Man I've been using the Mini for a couple days now. With a/c a good accessory I say.. But this I missed out . The Tank breather fumes getting into the cabin and my God !there is a big difference when you have your windows up. the engine hammering sound. So I guess Dynamat is the answer.

Mini fab

25-02-2011, 09:20 AM

Our Finish Product!!:D
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/02252011003.jpg
No front and lower valance extension!!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/02252011005.jpg

and our complete dash with A/C!!!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/02252011001.jpg

MINIMAD30

25-02-2011, 01:31 PM

looks great! very insperational build! build more!

Mini fab

25-02-2011, 01:57 PM

looks great! very insperational build! build more!
Wait for my Limo!:D

Pepper

25-02-2011, 02:29 PM

Mini Fab:

Hey,
Like I say:
Don't f**k around -just get it done
And YOU DO!
Amazing so I have watched, But
Who long did it take start to finish?
I want some of YOUR drugs.

Pepper

arterz

25-02-2011, 02:48 PM

wow, fantastic, did you have removable front??

Body Stylist

25-02-2011, 05:21 PM

Hi, so where did you get your arches from?

patlink

25-02-2011, 08:58 PM

absolute great colour
fantastic build

Mini fab

25-02-2011, 11:47 PM

Thanks Guys! Pepper my Man! I told you!
Arterz: no I don't have a removable front,
Body Stylist: Thats a German Group 5 version!
Patlink: That's A Porsche GT3 Inspired Theme!

Freebies

26-02-2011, 01:20 AM

I like your arches man. Looks like an hybrid between Sportpack and Miglia. Never seen those before.

Hey BodyStylist, i'll send you pics soon of my body kit purchased from you.

Mini fab

26-02-2011, 03:40 AM

Thanks Freeb's The arches came from Germany, they call it grp5 . It's a bit unique isn't it?:)

Mini Vlatko

26-02-2011, 07:37 AM

Very nice and clean with theme all through the car! Like it! :D

Wait for my Limo!:D

I am...:(

Body Stylist

26-02-2011, 10:32 AM

Body Stylist: Thats a German Group 5 version!

Hi, yes i know what they are, i was just seeing if you got them from minispeed germany or somewhere else?

I make them for wolfgang ;):cool:

Body Stylist

26-02-2011, 10:33 AM

I like your arches man. Looks like an hybrid between Sportpack and Miglia. Never seen those before.

Hey BodyStylist, i'll send you pics soon of my body kit purchased from you.

that would be great, thank you

Dowz

26-02-2011, 12:33 PM

Well done, mini looks great, love the colour, wheels, red detailing, the lot. And its a D :D

Its a credit to you and your fabrication skills.

Looking forward to the next one.

Mini fab

26-02-2011, 01:37 PM

that would be great, thank you

Well I had a car that came from Germany, Before we sold the car from a Local buyer we were able to have copies made from FRP before we handed the car:rolleyes:.

Mini fab

26-02-2011, 01:40 PM

Well done, mini looks great, love the colour, wheels, red detailing, the lot. And its a D :D

Its a credit to you and your fabrication skills.

Looking forward to the next one.

The credits to you guys and member of the 16V!:D

sivertson

26-02-2011, 03:56 PM

Cool window mirrors .were did you bought them?
Cool car nice work
/ola

Body Stylist

26-02-2011, 05:19 PM

Well I had a car that came from Germany, Before we sold the car from a Local buyer we were able to have copies made from FRP before we handed the car:rolleyes:.

Thats a great move, the shipping must kill the purchase price, it was interesting seeing them, as not many people know they exsist! we do loads of parts (and other really nice wheel arches) that you just dont see available in the uk for companies in foriegn countries, but as he companies own the mould rights we cant supply them :(

patlink

26-02-2011, 08:30 PM

the windscreen sticker says it all :)

Mini fab

26-02-2011, 09:57 PM

Cool window mirrors .were did you bought them?
Cool car nice work
/ola

Window mirrors are VItaloni Californian , imported it at RALLY DESIGN UK :D

Mini fab

26-02-2011, 10:01 PM

Thats a great move, the shipping must kill the purchase price, it was interesting seeing them, as not many people know they exsist! we do loads of parts (and other really nice wheel arches) that you just dont see available in the uk for companies in foriegn countries, but as he companies own the mould rights we cant supply them :(

Yeah man , But the Mini that we got that mold was modeled 1992, Do they still have the mold rights and the classic Mini in Germany has closed already:confused: Anyway no intention in marketing them anyway it's for our own personal use, Also note my dash Body Stylist it's also made from FRP.:D

Mini fab

26-02-2011, 10:02 PM

the windscreen sticker says it all :)
Yup from engine to the steering stalk:D

Body Stylist

27-02-2011, 09:27 AM

Yeah man , But the Mini that we got that mold was modeled 1992, Do they still have the mold rights and the classic Mini in Germany has closed already:confused: Anyway no intention in marketing them anyway it's for our own personal use, Also note my dash Body Stylist it's also made from FRP.:D

The arches you have are owned by Minispeed Germany, and they are still trading and ordering! I have no issues with you replicating them, however if it was a european company there could be ;)

yeah i have seen your dash, looks good :)

Mini fab

27-02-2011, 12:09 PM

Thanks Body Stylist! Do you do one of those dash in LHD ? We had Rovers in wood finish , but I did mine in FRP to have a modern look and wrap with Carbon look stickers.:)

Body Stylist

27-02-2011, 12:38 PM

Thanks Body Stylist! Do you do one of those dash in LHD ? We had Rovers in wood finish , but I did mine in FRP to have a modern look and wrap with Carbon look stickers.:)

We dont do that style of dash at all, sorry

jason911

05-03-2011, 09:48 AM

Comparison of the General Assembly replaced cited honda engine torque ring Well start the car
http://www.youtube.com/user/jasonvsraro

jason911

05-03-2011, 09:55 AM

Comparison of the General Assembly replaced cited honda engine torque ring Well start the car
http://www.youtube.com/user/jasonvsraro

I come from Asia, Taiwan, Taiwan also has a lot of the riders like mini Oh
Welcome to the exchange together

Mini fab

08-03-2011, 01:01 PM

Here is my interior!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/03082011001.jpg
Recaro's in red stitching and black flat leather all Original Mini ergonomics , IMPROVED!
And 5 speed which is optional for a standard A+
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/03082011002.jpg

My back View
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/03082011.jpg

chargeur

08-03-2011, 08:24 PM

Nice jobe! And now it's a pleasure to drive it ;)

arterz

08-03-2011, 08:32 PM

yeah beautiful mini

Mini fab

08-03-2011, 10:25 PM

Thanks for looking!;)

Mini fab

23-04-2011, 12:23 PM

My 2nd car project, one of my client
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/enginevtec1.jpg
we've use a copper rad that works very very well. and with aircon!!:p

Mini fab

19-05-2011, 10:01 AM

We have a race come Saturday this month and my car being prep to race on track with some of our modifications,
such as custom filled vulcanize rubber mounts:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/05192011.jpg
and our own header design a 4-2-1 system
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/05182011.jpg
and new shoes for my Mini
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/05182011001.jpg
and Finally our full 6 pt cage to be installed;:-D
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09282010010.jpg

Kam

22-05-2011, 08:34 PM

Mini fab - theres an article in the latest Miniworld with a small feature on a show/event in the philippines, is that your club? Thats if you get miniworld?

wilp99

23-05-2011, 05:04 AM

i want to visit the philippines....mmmm lumpia..

wheels look great on the mini. hows it handle, better/worse?

Mini fab

23-05-2011, 08:39 AM

Mini fab - theres an article in the latest Miniworld with a small feature on a show/event in the philippines, is that your club? Thats if you get miniworld?

Yes it's my club , MINI CULTURE is very much alive among the car lovers in the Philippines .The former editor of Miniworld Monty Watkins is a good friend of one of the "Pinoy Mini " members here in Manila.

Mini fab

23-05-2011, 08:44 AM

i want to visit the philippines....mmmm lumpia..

wheels look great on the mini. hows it handle, better/worse?

There is more than lumpia.. we have adobo, kare kare and crispy pata translation.... lumpia is fried vegetable wrap, Adobo is marinated soy beef, pork or chicken, kare kare is Beef in peanut sauce with vegetables, and Crispy pata is deep fried pork knuckle.:beer::beer::beer:

The wheels are Minilites copies PCD 101.6 in 7" wide, well they handle much better on tarmac and hi-ways!:D

Mini502

30-05-2011, 04:28 AM

Mini fab, I was looking at your motor mounts and im wondering if there is a site I can order those dog bone mounts from? Or did you make them?

Mini fab

30-05-2011, 08:01 AM

Mini fab, I was looking at your motor mounts and im wondering if there is a site I can order those dog bone mounts from? Or did you make them?

I fabricate them, I don't know if your chassis configuration will fit those motor mounts:cool:

Mini502

30-05-2011, 09:07 AM

I fabricate them, I don't know if your chassis configuration will fit those motor mounts:cool:
Ok you made them thanks, I wasnt sure if they were sold in different sizes somewhere.

Mini fab

30-05-2011, 09:31 AM

Ok you made them thanks, I wasnt sure if they were sold in different sizes somewhere.

You can order a pair of engine steadies at Minispares the set that they use at the bottom of the transmission of an A+, From there you can modify them for your usage.:cool:

MINIMAD30

15-06-2011, 01:28 PM

Mini fab I want ur manifold lol! Took a picture of ur manifold and my unmodded manifold to every fabricator in my area and not one would or could do it! Beginning to loose hope lol! Think im gonna have to go silicone bends and make my own stainless steel runners and chamber...

Mini fab

18-06-2011, 02:45 PM

My 2nd Client fail proof D15b conversion , !

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/cebusetup.jpg
My third Client engine bay with D16zc
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/263109_10150209294391811_608586810_7367088_6711240 _n.jpg

This two cars only took 2 mos in the making with my complete kit. Radiator , Brakeboosters and clutch slaves are optional, No problem fitting every parts, All Honda, and Mini brakes at the front and VTi backplates at the back with Minifins.

Freebies

18-06-2011, 05:09 PM

Hi MiniFab,

Have you managed to fit an automatic engine so far? After my cabrio project, that will be finished in 2016, i might swap my other mini with an automatic D15B Vtec...

Also have you thought of selling your kit less the mini subframe ? What i mean by that, is a kit with a sort of JIG bracket. Meaning people like me that already have a mini frame, could buy your kit (bend tubing, brackets etc..., installing your parts on the mini frame with some sort of JIG brackets that would ensure the parts are in perfect position before welding. Weld everything in place and then remove the JIG brackets, cut the unnecessary bits of the original frame and VOILA!

Anyway, we will talk soon about your frame as i might be interested in one for my second car.

Good job mate for your cars.

Mini fab

18-06-2011, 09:48 PM

I would really like to do that Freebs, but from the subframe part there is still lots of work to be done, like the lower arm brackets, gusseted corner, reinforced subframe mounts, and subframe balancing( We don't just assemble we put counter weights so the frame is balance) I'll try to work out shipping the whole subframe if you want?

And A/T ? no problem... That's what I'm doing for my old man's car at the moment.:)

Freebies

18-06-2011, 10:19 PM

Ok, i will see when the times comes. I should go ahead and finish the first one before thinking of another one!

Talk to you later!

Mini fab

22-07-2011, 10:56 AM

Local car club meeting Mini and Vw clubs
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/VtecatGloria.jpg
front ends
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/nosedive.jpg
our 4th car project....
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/07222011001.jpg
A newbie having his first car and doing it right ... going Vtec!
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/07222011-1.jpg

Mini fab

21-08-2011, 09:04 AM

Adding an aircon finally I realize the belts were slipping due to the load on the added accessories . So I went back to the drawing board and find out that my alternator belt is quite a long "loop" so what Minitec's idea of a tensioner is a good idea. Source out an alternative parts and "alas!" it's very much available in my local auto shop store. Here is a picture....
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08182011002.jpg
and seems everythings working fine in my conversion it's about to cover the left and right wing, here is a picture in fiberglass.....
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/08192011001.jpg
with louvers , simply fastened with "zip tight" in 3/8 width. it keeps the temp inside the bay constant and with very much protection to dust and water.

"NOW I CAN SAY I GOT THE PERFECT VTEC CONVERSION!!!"

Mini fab

21-08-2011, 09:35 AM

Everybody is in the Vtec craze here in Manila, Other's want the best there money can afford. A Mini member I guess won the nationwide lotto last week and has the money and bought a Minitec AWD frame ( just kidding:p). here is the picture........
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/293215_10150749845425315_682745314_20261555_400904 3_n.jpg
and the rear frame...
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/291737_10150749846370315_682745314_20261559_393871 5_n.jpg
But this AWD project was commissioned to yours truly "Minifab". Will try to make this conversion different from there instruction manual. and adjust the caliper mounts to maximize the turning radius. And also won't be using silicon tubes for the Manifold , engine will be B18c .will post picture of this conversion.

Mini fab

09-09-2011, 08:23 AM

Update on the latest alternator bracket:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09082011.jpg
This is how it looks when mounted at the engine. the tensioner bearing doesn't make the flatbelt goes flapping at high revving. Use 1160 4pk multi grove belt.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09082011003.jpg
top clearance is about 1/2" from bonnet.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09082011002.jpg
back view, the alternator is aligned to the second crankshaft pulley. better if you can get a pulley from a non-assisted car. PH12

Freebies

09-09-2011, 12:01 PM

Well done MiniFab.

Be patient, my car is almost finish!

k20/k24 allmotor

09-09-2011, 07:38 PM

thanks mini fab can't wait for my's :)

Mini fab

10-09-2011, 12:35 AM

thanks mini fab can't wait for my's :)

On it's way man!:)

wilp99

11-09-2011, 07:01 AM

dope.

Mini fab

16-09-2011, 08:42 AM

I had my fender cover final pattern. that covers the left and right side of the engine bay, It makes the engine bay area free from dust, and actually makes the engine temperature a little cooler compare before when it has non. It's made of FRP .
here is the right http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09152011002.jpg
and the left
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09152011001.jpg
it has louvers of 6" wide slats.
:)

Freebies

16-09-2011, 02:57 PM

looks good!

k20/k24 allmotor

17-09-2011, 07:52 AM

clean

Mini fab

17-09-2011, 10:57 AM

I have two sets of shocks Gaz and Protech which is which? Install them next week.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09162011.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09162011001.jpg

k20/k24 allmotor

18-09-2011, 01:14 PM

I want some :)

Mini fab

18-09-2011, 01:41 PM

I want some :)

I think this is the only thing missing to use my Mini everyday. A sporty but comfy ride:D:D

k20/k24 allmotor

18-09-2011, 01:43 PM

cool mate

Keoman

19-09-2011, 12:37 AM

MiniFab you're my hero..

I hope you dont mind me stealing some of your ideas... Ill give you credit, i swear :D

I love that you went in the Performance but still usable direction. Exactly what I plan to do. I want a fun daily driver! with AC!

Can I ask you to take a couple more pictures of the Dash? Angle rightand angle left? Also of how you did your AC underneath the dash?

Great job so far!

wilp99

19-09-2011, 07:13 AM

cool mate

cool mate? thats the best u can do for your 5th post.

on a related note. should i go with minitastic or coilovers?

k20/k24 allmotor

19-09-2011, 11:47 AM

cool mate? thats the best u can do for your 5th post.

on a related note. should i go with minitastic or coilovers?

just getting my feet wet:).

Mini fab

19-09-2011, 12:16 PM

Mini fab

19-09-2011, 12:34 PM

just getting my feet wet:).

By the way we're you able to get your alternator bracket at the courier ?
Well I guess go for the coil over., I choose the GAZ than the Protech ( Price I guess?)
Anyway this is what I do to reinforced the shock mounts besides from adding two more bolts as what the shock mount brackets dictates. I added perforated sheet of 2mm thick .This is better than a blanking plate which only traps moisture and shear the plates, unlike the perforated plate it acts as a webbing and distribute load, Besides being a light weight option.:)

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09192011003.jpg
and this is how it looks . notice the TIG spots on the surface., FAILPROOF!:D
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09192011004.jpg
And doing coil over at the back requires a right spacer with 3 " long studs, with 1/2" thick spacer, That clears the tire wall by 1/2"
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09192011.jpg
Hope this helps to you coil over "wanna have one":D

Mini fab

19-09-2011, 12:47 PM

By the way this is a must for every coil over conversion. ( note the perforated plates :))
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/rmrsasteel/09192011005.jpg

I'll be using the "off the self" springs from GAZ, Since the D15 is a bit lighter than the B, Which some of the members having B conversion change spring rates. Again I would like to reiterate " Guys the D is what you only need!":cool:

wilp99

19-09-2011, 12:48 PM

thanks for the info. will i need to turret the rear to fit the coilovers? i dont want to have to do that. what are the spring rates of the gaz vs protech?

Mini fab

19-09-2011, 01:36 PM

thanks for the info. will i need to turret the rear to fit the coilovers? i dont want to have to do that. what are the spring rates of the gaz vs protech?

No need to turret the rear because the Coil overs are made offset by the manufacturers, only need is to hammer the top mount and a little on the side. Make sure your radius arm's shafts are ok so no movement at all sideways only up and down.. and that's it! Spring rate I'm not sure ? But I guess both Protech and Gaz have the same rate standard when you just order them from a Mini specialist, But Minispares have different spring rates available. But as for now I'm quite keen that the stock springs can be accommodated. For the rear you won't have problems, but for the front I guess those who have a B installed would need a bigger spring rate. :cool: